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Ensign Expendable posted:Painted the Zvezda 122 mm M-30 I had in my stash since 2016. This was an old kit even then. The fit is awful, there's flash everywhere, the two halves of the molds don't align. I'm going to put it in a winter diorama to hide the most shameful parts in the snow. For being a less than great kit I think you've done a great job! I have a primed Strv 103 "tank" i want to try and paint on the Swedish splinter camo and I've been racking my brain on the best strategy.  My current thought is to roughly blob out the lightest color, do my best to mask it with trimmed pieces of tape, blob out the next color, repeat with tape and then do overall the last color before peeling off the layers of tape and touching up. I have a tin of the making putty but I think that is best for curves.
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Apr 22, 2023 15:53
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therunningman posted:For being a less than great kit I think you've done a great job! You can get masking tape in sheets for cutting your own patterns into it, and HIQ even has pre-cut splinter masks, though scale could be a problem with the pre-cut stuff. I have both that I picked up in one of my tool/supply binges. All depending on your taste for spending money I suppose.
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Apr 22, 2023 17:25
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I have some wide Tamiya masking tape, going to give it a shot. On the topic of mixing colors, has anyone used a color mixing app to help? I tried one to help "un-mix" and get close to a color I'm missing and it seemed pretty good! I know it won't be perfect but gives an idea of where to start with the colours I have. 
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Apr 22, 2023 19:27
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Warmachine posted:The IS-3 crapbuild was from 2015. I'm sure it made it into the thread.... Hahahah brilliant, I remember being one of the instigators of that. Can't believe it's been so long! Can I shamelessly repost my entry for old times sake?   
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Apr 22, 2023 21:53
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It really is a great kit to layer whatever you want on top of it to make something silly.
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Apr 22, 2023 23:26
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I got this free 1:700 Napoleonic 3rd Rate ship for free on the front of the latest Wargames Illustrated: I would like to model it up and put it on a display base as HMS Agamemnon, as a gift to my step-dad (who is building a huge partwork HMS Victory). I feel like it either needs a fair bit of rigging, or fighting sails - I've not done either before, does anyone have any thoughts on which avenue to proceed down?
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Apr 23, 2023 09:44
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The best thing for rigging in that scale would be an rigging product like Uschi or Infini line - essentially an extremely fine elastic thread that comes on a bobbin you can spool out. In the past folk would use stretched sprue but unless you're a masochist I'd suggest the elastic thread route. I generally use it by fixing it into the first position with a tiny dab of superglue, then unspooling it while keeping it at tension then glueing it to its end point, holding it in place for 5-10 seconds until it's set and then trimming it off with a very fine set of scissors.
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Apr 23, 2023 09:55
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If you want to go the masochist route, you could also turn it into a Ship-In-A-Bottle. Would fit into wide, thin liquor bottle.
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Apr 23, 2023 10:14
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I used brish bristles for my ironclad models but this is going to require a fair bit more, isn't it? So either 'lots' of rigging as-is, or 'a bit' of rigging with sails?
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Apr 23, 2023 10:22
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What is that thread that is used for WW2 plane antennas that tightens up when you warm it up with a hair dryer? Is that a specific brand, or will something like fishing line work?
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Apr 23, 2023 13:00
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Skunkduster posted:What is that thread that is used for WW2 plane antennas that tightens up when you warm it up with a hair dryer? Is that a specific brand, or will something like fishing line work? I've never heard of that. I always just us E-Z Line for antennae which doesn't require heating for tension. I should clarify my earlier point regarding panel line scribing. If it were just a couple panel lines across seams that needed to be done, I wouldn't mind. However, with the amount of sanding that had to be done to blend the resin conversion pieces on the P-38, I'm having to rescribe about a full 1/2 of the model. Re-rivet too. With all the nooks, crannies, and sweeping curves on each of the nacelles and cockpit pod, it's a huge bear. I can't even really get a scribing tool of any shape into some of the deeper areas between pod and nacelle. Bleh. Chuck_D fucked around with this message at 17:27 on Apr 23, 2023 |
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Apr 23, 2023 17:23
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Skunkduster posted:What is that thread that is used for WW2 plane antennas that tightens up when you warm it up with a hair dryer? Is that a specific brand, or will something like fishing line work? That's probably stretched sprue - once it's glued in place, holding a flame near it will tighten it up so I imagine a hairdryer works too.
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Apr 23, 2023 17:51
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I built a small plane again:   Revell's 1:144 F-15E.
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Apr 23, 2023 18:38
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1/144 is such a great scale. Cheap enough to be risk-free, small enough to easily display, not too small you lose all the detail, paints up great. BrenGun SBD and a ZVezda Po-2 
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Apr 23, 2023 18:56
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tidal wave emulator posted:That's probably stretched sprue - once it's glued in place, holding a flame near it will tighten it up so I imagine a hairdryer works too. I'm surprised that stretched sprue would tighten up. I would have thought it would sag more when heated. I'll have to try it out. The stuff I was thinking of is more like fishing line on a spool - it was something I saw on a video a long time ago and don't remember much about it.
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Apr 24, 2023 00:13
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Ensign Expendable posted:The MG-42 comes with quite a few parts. I particularly like the flexible vinyl ammo belt, although it will probably be difficult to paint. I settled on it and went for the M2. Ali Express is estimating 3rd week in May for my arrival, so fingers crossed. I'm interested to hear how the ammo belt goes for you since I'm thinking to do a dual-color brass casing with a copper jacket to give that bit some flair, and if I need to adulterate the paint somehow to make it work, I want to know ahead of time because I somehow don't think I have anything that will really approximate the stuff as a practice part.
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Apr 24, 2023 00:44
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Anyone know of a source for 1/25 or 1/24 scale weapons? Pistols of various types, shot guns, revolver grenade launcher, like that. I'm making the car from Supernatural for my girlfriend, and opening the trunk to show the big box o weapons. Oddly, they include the decal for the inside of the trunk lid, but you have to open it up and do the trunk itself on your own.
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Apr 24, 2023 01:35
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I'm going to just link a Night Shift video because the M.A.K. models are just so wonderfully weird, and this is such a nice vignette with a lot of good technique on display. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AA745Sp-XBA
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Apr 24, 2023 01:45
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MrUnderbridge posted:Anyone know of a source for 1/25 or 1/24 scale weapons? Pistols of various types, shot guns, revolver grenade launcher, like that. It's endlessly annoying how civilian and military kits use mostly disjoint sets of scales. From what I can find, GI Joe used 1:25 for some stuff. You can find action figure style weapons in that scale on ebay. If you want specific weapons or a more realistic style you might consider finding a goon with a good 3d printer.
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Apr 24, 2023 04:04
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Aoshima has some strange ideas about how instruction booklets should handle things.
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Apr 24, 2023 08:25
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FPyat posted:Aoshima has some strange ideas about how instruction booklets should handle things. 
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Apr 24, 2023 09:05
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The F-15E I posted earlier had some mirrored part numbers in the instructions, such as the tail and some of the rails, and decals on the sheet that weren't in the instructions. The P-70 I'm also working on has a more serious issue where at least one part is effectively in the wrong place, and there's a few mistakes in the paint guide between the two buildable versions. Could be worse though, I've had instructions call out parts that didn't even exist in the kit to begin with (Thanks MisterCraft).
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Apr 24, 2023 09:20
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FPyat posted:Aoshima has some strange ideas about how instruction booklets should handle things. If you translate the Japanese text, does it help at all? I'm having to use the translate feature in Google lens a lot on the Kongo. Fujimi's instructions look very similar to Aoshima.
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Apr 24, 2023 11:07
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Hell, at least they're not Dragon instructions.
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Apr 24, 2023 11:21
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FPyat posted:Aoshima has some strange ideas about how instruction booklets should handle things. You're making a pair of those turrets, using the identical parts W41 OR W42 mounted to part J2 OR J1 (They're identical, so doesn't matter which). The black/white arrow is common to Japanese model kits ( you see it on Bandai Gunpla and Kotobukiya kits too), it denotes that either of two options are acceptable. Typically things like sticker choice, accessory equipping/placement, parts choice, etc.
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Apr 24, 2023 11:50
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The kicker is that J2 is not a platform, but is rather a set of two guns similar to W41.
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Apr 24, 2023 12:27
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MrUnderbridge posted:Anyone know of a source for 1/25 or 1/24 scale weapons? Pistols of various types, shot guns, revolver grenade launcher, like that. Tamiya made 1/24 metal figures with appropriately scaled weapons, but only German ones.
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Apr 24, 2023 12:35
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FPyat posted:The kicker is that J2 is not a platform, but is rather a set of two guns similar to W41. The rare late-war vertically stacked AA gun configuration?
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Apr 24, 2023 13:07
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Just a regular old side-by-side mounting.
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Apr 24, 2023 13:14
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Gewehr 43 posted:If you translate the Japanese text, does it help at all? I'm having to use the translate feature in Google lens a lot on the Kongo. Fujimi's instructions look very similar to Aoshima. I'm fluent in Japanese and still no. I think it's saying that in the A/B-1 positions, you can use either W41 or W40, but in the A/B-2 positions, you should only use W41.
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Apr 24, 2023 13:49
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I'm not a ship guy but now I just kinda want to get the kit to see for myself.
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Apr 25, 2023 00:01
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So tonight I wanted to prep some paint to airbrush with. I get out my mixing cup, put some paint in it, and then a few drops of thinner. It instantly solidifies to a chewing gum consistency. The weird thing is that it was AK paint and AK thinner which I figured would be ok  I tried again using mr leveling thinner and had no problem.This hobby sometimes, I swear.
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Apr 25, 2023 04:54
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Which exact paint and which exact thinner?
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Apr 25, 2023 05:09
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I once got some Tamiya primer and it clogged up my airbrush terribly, turns out you can't think it with the regular Tamiya thinner and you need the A variant or something like that.
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Apr 25, 2023 09:08
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EduardoEspecial posted:So tonight I wanted to prep some paint to airbrush with. I get out my mixing cup, put some paint in it, and then a few drops of thinner. It instantly solidifies to a chewing gum consistency. The weird thing is that it was AK paint and AK thinner which I figured would be ok Hey, at least it happened in a mixing cup and not the airbrush. That's definitely an incompatibility between paint and thinner. The brand doesn't matter as much as the solvent/medium.
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Apr 25, 2023 11:08
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As AK have several different paint lines (and aren't particularly clear about what they are) it sounds like you maybe tried to mix their lacquer based paints (Real Colours) with the acrylic thinner for their 3rd gen water-based acrylics?
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Apr 25, 2023 11:34
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Making the new Tamiya Spitfire Mk 1 that comes with baby's first PE parts, and. . . what a pain in the rear end these are. Partially because they're tiny (1/48th), partially because they're fragile, and partially because they're metal. I managed to break the one that holds the compass(?) below the instruments because it's joint was thinned for easy folding. Which also meant every time I bumped it putting the rest of the cockpit together I weakened the 90 degree joint at the back till it simply fell off. Unrelated- how do you all paint/assemble fiddly bits of cockpits? I watched several build videos where people put together bare plastic sub-assemblies, then primed/base coated them, then painted in details. I don't really trust myself to do this so I primed/sprayed the fuselage walls then brush painted as many things as I could singly (oxygen bottles, throttles, various sticks and wheels, etc.) then glued them in. This FEELS like I'm making more work for myself, but it also means I'm not accidentally blobbing black on the fuselage wall where the oxygen tank attaches to it. Should I just get over myself and assemble everything as bare plastic, then prime/spray, then brush paint details?
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Apr 25, 2023 14:46
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The first few times working with PE are definitely a learning experience. As for how to paint cockpits, the short answer is you do it however gets the results you like within a time span you can tolerate. I like how it turns out when I paint pieces separately and then assemble. If there is a separate blue oxygen bottle with silver straps, I can spray the whole thing a gloss blue, then mask off the tank and spray the straps, then hand paint the valve and knob. Then glue it in. It takes a while to go through all that but I like the result, and well, it's a hobby. Those Infini cutting mat things for cutting thin strips of masking tape are super useful. Infini Easy Cutting Type A, e.g.
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Apr 25, 2023 15:51
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Ensign Expendable posted:I once got some Tamiya primer and it clogged up my airbrush terribly, turns out you can't think it with the regular Tamiya thinner and you need the A variant or something like that. I'm not sure what you mean by regular thinner (maybe acrylic thinner) but for Tamiya primer you thin it with lacquer thinner since it's lacquer based. Obviously Tamiyas lacquer thinner works great but you can probably use other brands like Mr. Color.
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Apr 25, 2023 16:09
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MyronMulch posted:do it however gets the results you like within a time span you can tolerate.
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Apr 25, 2023 17:52
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