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At some point, I’m going to have to rig, my 1:700 3rd rate ship - it is really only a stylised representation. Is there some kind of baby’s– first-rigging-diagram I can refer to? I know there are very detailed ones available but the goal of this is strictly impressionistic
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Apr 28, 2023 13:49
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Just grab some spiders and let them go to town.
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Apr 28, 2023 14:07
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MrUnderbridge posted:Just grab some spiders and let them go to town. ...an age-of-sail ship crewed by tiny model spiders would actually be kinda sick.
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Apr 28, 2023 16:32
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Three peglegs and a half dozen eye patches - the Black Widow of the Caribbean has been through some poo poo!
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Apr 28, 2023 18:35
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Warmachine posted:...an age-of-sail ship crewed by tiny model spiders would actually be kinda sick. MrUnderbridge posted:Three peglegs and a half dozen eye patches - the Black Widow of the Caribbean has been through some poo poo! Admiral Trench is pleased 
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Apr 28, 2023 18:46
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MrUnderbridge posted:Just grab some spiders and let them go to town. If you properly manage your nerd lair, they'll do it themselves with no intervention. At least once you clear out the wasps.
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Apr 28, 2023 19:21
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I have a GSI CREOS PS-289 airbrush. Lately when I press down the trigger and release it sticks a little so some air and paint will continue to shoot even when I let off. This is even after a thorough cleaning (I always use lacquer thinner for cleaning). Could this just mean I need some lube on the trigger? Or should I try cleaning the area under the trigger where it actuates the airflow? I think it's called the air valve. That's assuming I can even disassemble that part.
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Apr 28, 2023 20:37
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You should be able to put a SMALL drop of lubricant on the pin that actuates the air valve right under the trigger. Put the trigger back in and work it a dozen times, and that should free things up.
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Apr 28, 2023 21:31
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:You should be able to put a SMALL drop of lubricant on the pin that actuates the air valve right under the trigger. Put the trigger back in and work it a dozen times, and that should free things up. Got some lube ordered on Amazon. Until then I guess it's not overkill to use a .5 airbrush to do a basecoat on a tank?
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Apr 28, 2023 22:12
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Not at all, I always use my .5 needle airbrush for basecoating.
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Apr 28, 2023 22:50
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You can use a 0.5 for just about anything. There's a lot of misinformation out there, that you need some ultra fine airbrush to do quality work. Not true at all. You can do amazing work even with a large 0.5 needle in the airbrush. Even fine details. You'd only ever need the super-fine airbrushes if you're putting down hair-thin lines/veins, or needle-point small dots of color. That's the beauty of dual-action airbrushes and a decent compressor. You can alter air pressure at the compressor, your paint thickness, how much paint you want to throw with the trigger, and the distance you hold the airbrush from the surface to do all sort of different effects and widths of color. The best way to think of it is the needle size is not necessarily important for the small details, but the top end for max paint application. Just about any airbrush can do small details no problem, but the top end of the scale matters, since you wouldn't want to paint the base color of a full-size car with an artists airbrush and 0.5 needle. And since as hobbyists were not really concerned with the maximum amount of paint a brush can throw, all our work being small scale by nature, we don't really need to worry all that much about needle size at all in the end.
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Apr 28, 2023 23:26
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I got myself a soldering kit in preperation for the new smoke unit and have been tidying up the wiring and reestablishing broken connections inside the Tiger, and the headlight works now. The new smoke unit and a new sound card have been ordered and are on the way and should make a significant difference to how well the tank looks while in operation. I did fix the broken wiring on the current smoke unit for practice but its still not pumping smoke out, but if I open the unit up smoke comes pouring out in vast quantities. So clearly the unit is making smoke but just not pumping it out the unit for some reason. Considering I've wasted far too much time on this crappy unit already and theres a much better one on the way, I'm considering it a lost cause and leaving it as is until it gets replaced.
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Apr 28, 2023 23:52
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:You can use a 0.5 for just about anything. There's a lot of misinformation out there, that you need some ultra fine airbrush to do quality work. Not true at all. You can do amazing work even with a large 0.5 needle in the airbrush. Even fine details. You'd only ever need the super-fine airbrushes if you're putting down hair-thin lines/veins, or needle-point small dots of color. That's the beauty of dual-action airbrushes and a decent compressor. You can alter air pressure at the compressor, your paint thickness, how much paint you want to throw with the trigger, and the distance you hold the airbrush from the surface to do all sort of different effects and widths of color. I'm going to quote this because it is worth reading again. When buying an airbrush, people get really hung up on details like the needle size, but it doesn't really matter that much. As Bloody Hedgehog mentioned, you can adjust your air pressure, distance, and trigger pull (amount of paint you are dumping out) to get a wide variety of spray patterns. It isn't like if you buy an airbrush with X nozzle, you are limited to a spray pattern that is Y wide. If you are buying an airbrush for modeling, look for something that is mid-high quality, dual action, and easy to clean. Charliegrs posted:I have a GSI CREOS PS-289 airbrush. Lately when I press down the trigger and release it sticks a little so some air and paint will continue to shoot even when I let off. This is even after a thorough cleaning (I always use lacquer thinner for cleaning). Could this just mean I need some lube on the trigger? Or should I try cleaning the area under the trigger where it actuates the airflow? I think it's called the air valve. That's assuming I can even disassemble that part. It sounds like you have two problems. I've never used that airbrush, so I'm talking in general terms. One problem is that the trigger isn't coming up far enough to stop the airflow, and the the other is that the needle isn't fully seating forward into the nozzle. For both of these to be caused by the trigger, it would have to be sticking in two directions which seems unlikely. I would remove the needle, clean it, and get a good look with a magnifying glass or microscope to make sure the tip isn't damaged or bent. If the needle looks good, leave the needle out and pump a cup full of lacquer thinner through the nozzle. Re-seat the needle keeping some forward pressure on it while tightening it down and that should fix your paint flow problem. The airflow problem might be caused by a sticking trigger or the O rings in the air valve assembly not seated in their grooves or some other problem with the O-rings. If an O-ring is missing, damaged, or does not fit tightly in the groove, you can get a replacement at a hardware store for a few cents compared to buying a replacement from the manufacturer for a few dollars and paying shipping on top of that.
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Apr 29, 2023 03:43
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Do you guys have a separate airbrush for varnishing? Debating doing a bit of TLC on my Patriot 105 as I really don't feel comfortable putting varnish in my Infinity CR+.
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Apr 29, 2023 12:45
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ijyt posted:Do you guys have a separate airbrush for varnishing? Debating doing a bit of TLC on my Patriot 105 as I really don't feel comfortable putting varnish in my Infinity CR+. I've had no issues putting paint and varnish through one airbrush. Granted, it's a Patriot 105, so I didn't worry much at all about possible issues, but so far so good.
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Apr 29, 2023 14:34
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I'm pretty new, but I use a single airbrush for both acrylic paints and varnishes with no problems yet, I clean carefully after every session and always finish by running a little bit of airbrush cleaner through.
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Apr 29, 2023 15:49
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ijyt posted:Do you guys have a separate airbrush for varnishing? Debating doing a bit of TLC on my Patriot 105 as I really don't feel comfortable putting varnish in my Infinity CR+. I just use an Iwata HP-CS with the .3mm needle for everything. Just clean it well when you're done with varnish.
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Apr 29, 2023 16:32
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I wasn't even aware that I wasn't supposed to varnish with the same airbrush.
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Apr 29, 2023 16:50
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I have a separate airbrush I use for metallics cos completely cleaning metal flakes out is a nightmare and you don't really want them contaminating subsequent colour coats.
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Apr 29, 2023 17:50
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Ensign Expendable posted:I wasn't even aware that I wasn't supposed to varnish with the same airbrush. Yeah this never occurred to me at all. I flushed the fucker with acetone I don't think there's anything left in there to gently caress me up.
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Apr 30, 2023 00:36
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I think it’s possibly a perception built up through YouTube vids where most of the bigger channels will break out different airbrushes for different things. The international scale modeler channel does it for every build
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Apr 30, 2023 00:39
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Actually, this is probably worth asking here: I learned on my previous piece that gloss coating metallic paints radically alters the finish--namely dulling out the metallic part of it. Is there a good way to get a protective coat on metallics, or does using those preclude the use of a top coat in general?
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Apr 30, 2023 01:04
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Unless you're intending the piece to be handled regularly just put it on after the gloss coat. I've never noticed it causing problems with matt varnish on my toy soliders, but I'm aiming for the varnish to dull things a bit there.
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Apr 30, 2023 01:22
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There are purpose made gloss coats that keep the shine of metallics. The most popular is probably the Alclad Aqua Gloss Clear. I know there are others out there now, but damned if I can remember the names. Edit: Found a great comparison vid of a lot of the popular clears out there. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kB9wwCyG1dw Bloody Hedgehog fucked around with this message at 08:57 on Apr 30, 2023 |
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Apr 30, 2023 02:28
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Dumb question but is Vallejo liquid mask just their brand version of like mold builder liquid latex rubber? I’ve seen some people use that for masking on complex figure parts when taping really isn’t viable but if I can get a bigger tub of the mold builder compared to the Vallejo I’ll go that way to save money
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Apr 30, 2023 17:23
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My guess is that it's along the same lines as the material from Microscale. It's not really a latex rubber, more of a thick liquid.
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Apr 30, 2023 20:09
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Been a while since I finished a model so I’m pretty stoked with the way this one turned out. First time using streaking grime and I think I might have used a bit too much and some of the placement was maybe nonsensical but overall I’m happy with the way it came out.   
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Apr 30, 2023 23:47
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:There are purpose made gloss coats that keep the shine of metallics. The most popular is probably the Alclad Aqua Gloss Clear. I know there are others out there now, but damned if I can remember the names. Looks like the big winners are Alclad (best overall), good old Future (it'll never die), and the dark horse E7 which I've never heard of but it sounds kinda neat. Thanks!
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May 1, 2023 21:53
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Warmachine posted:good old Future it’s actually finally been discontinued and going for insane prices on the secondary market. no rebranding
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May 1, 2023 22:42
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Spitfires posted:it’s actually finally been discontinued and going for insane prices on the secondary market. no rebranding Looks like this is the new hotness being recommended as a replacement. https://www.quickshinefloors.com/shop/multi-surface-floors/multi-surface-floor-finish/
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May 2, 2023 00:41
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Why was Future so popular as a clearcoat? I come from the car modelling world where I don't think Future is used too often. I think it's basically a semi gloss acrylic right? Was it just cheaper than model specific acrylic clears?
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May 2, 2023 01:21
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It used to be popular for painting life size scenery because it was cheap, durable, and leveled well so roller marks didn’t show. E- Castle Guard is also fairly well regarded but I haven’t seen people tint it the way they would sometimes with Future E2- I know this isn’t the scenery thread but I got excited about Future chat Snowy fucked around with this message at 01:41 on May 2, 2023 |
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May 2, 2023 01:39
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Charliegrs posted:Why was Future so popular as a clearcoat? I come from the car modelling world where I don't think Future is used too often. I think it's basically a semi gloss acrylic right? Was it just cheaper than model specific acrylic clears? It was originally popular for clear-coating canopies since it would level and fix scratches other than that it was water soluble, cheap, and pretty bulletproof
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May 2, 2023 02:38
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The_Rob posted:Been a while since I finished a model so I’m pretty stoked with the way this one turned out. First time using streaking grime and I think I might have used a bit too much and some of the placement was maybe nonsensical but overall I’m happy with the way it came out. I'm glad someone else appreciates the excellence of the Free French identification schema.
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May 2, 2023 03:49
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Jonny Nox posted:It was originally popular for clear-coating canopies since it would level and fix scratches The price made it super popular with miniature wargamers who needed to use a lot of it
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May 2, 2023 05:20
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:Looks like this is the new hotness being recommended as a replacement. Ours seems to be slightly different, is it the same product? https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/quick-shine-multi-surface-floor-finish-800-ml-1530269p.html
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May 2, 2023 05:53
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Long ago in the days before clickbaity youtube took over everything people shared hobby info on these things called Blogs. One of those blogs had a very lengthy and in depth article detailing all the uses of Future Floor Polish for miniature painting. That blog was shared far and wide and everyone started using Future Floor Polish, not for its intended purpose of sealing vinyl flooring but for sealing plastic models, creating washes and prepping decals.
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May 2, 2023 09:57
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Bucnasti posted:Long ago in the days before clickbaity youtube took over everything people shared hobby info on these things called Blogs. One of those blogs had a very lengthy and in depth article detailing all the uses of Future Floor Polish for miniature painting. That blog was shared far and wide and everyone started using Future Floor Polish, not for its intended purpose of sealing vinyl flooring but for sealing plastic models, creating washes and prepping decals. There was also a later blog that showed every label and name change the product went through over the years in different regions to make sure you got the right one, instead of accidentally buying the floor cleaner
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May 2, 2023 10:21
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Though the original blog site is gone, this is the article in question. https://model-railroad-hobbyist.com/node/44131 There is still some good info there, but the hobby has progressed significantly since then and there are a lot of better options out there for clear gloss varnishes.
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May 2, 2023 12:57
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https://web.archive.org/web/20190729021058/http://www.swannysmodels.com/TheCompleteFuture.html this one?
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May 2, 2023 13:01
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