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Guys help I just airbrushed my model with Pine Sol. I'm not getting desirable results. I thought this was the clear coat everyone used.
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May 2, 2023 16:22
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Clear up some confusion for me: Beyond them being two different types of paint requiring different thinners/etc, is there any real use difference between lacquer and enamel? I've always used acrylics and am happy with them, but am looking to try out the cheat/technique where you layer a highlight color under the acrylic then use a little water/alcohol/thinner to remove it from the high spots. Does it matter of I use enamel or lacquer, or is just "is not acrylic" what matters?
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May 2, 2023 16:37
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Lacquers dry incredibly quickly, whereas enamels can take hours to dry and days to cure - that's the main difference. Enamels are much much better for brush-painting than lacquers. I don't know anyone who brush paints with lacquers beyond doing small touch-ups. Lacquers are amongst the most forgiving paints to airbrush albeit they release the most dangerous chemicals into the air. Both are pretty robust once cured whereas acrylics (specifically water-based acrylics) are more fragile.
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May 2, 2023 17:09
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stealie72 posted:Clear up some confusion for me: For your application, I think either would work. If you are using an airbrush, I would use lacquers with a spray booth for the reasons tidal wave emulator mentioned above. I use a similar technique to what you describe but with lacquer as a basecoat and enamel as a top coat. Lacquer is impervious to enamel thinners (mineral spirits, turpentine, etc..) so you can basecoat with lacquers, topcoat with enamels and use enamel thinners to remove the top layer to your heart's content without worrying about damaging the lacquer basecoat. This will not work the other way around as lacquer thinner will quickly dissolve both lacquers and enamels.
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May 2, 2023 18:01
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Charliegrs posted:Guys help I just airbrushed my model with Pine Sol. I'm not getting desirable results. I thought this was the clear coat everyone used. Pine Sol works pretty well for removing paint in my experience.
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May 2, 2023 18:35
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stealie72 posted:Clear up some confusion for me: Just a note--you have the process backwards. The acrylic goes on first and is the color you want your raised detail to be, then the enamel goes on top and is the color of the 'recessed' portion. Enamel's solvent has similar properties to the oil washes used for panel lining, so you do pretty much the same thing--apply some solvent to a swab and rub the enamel away. Since the solvent doesn't react with the underlying acrylic, it takes away the enamel from the raised portion and exposes the acrylic undercoat. Personally I've only heard of this being done with an acrylic base and enamel top, with the acrylic as your detail color and the enamel as the primary color. I would imagine a lacquer base would also work. As Skunkduster said, the key here is that the thinners used to remove the enamel do not react with the acrylic or lacquer beneath. This fellow does a reasonably good tutorial--the gunpla folks love this technique because some of the most popular kits have these 'sleeve' details that he uses for demonstration in the video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ej_DTLtil2I Side note: I'm actually questioning the distinction between lacquer and acrylic for this technique, because I recently read the GSI Creos catalog for their Mr. Color line, where they call Mr. Color a "solvent-based acrylic paint." This has me questioning whether the common wisdom "Mr. Color is a lacquer paint" is actually true or if there's some Mandela Effect going on here. Side side note: If you ever wanted to see the full scope of the Mr. Hobby line GSI Creos makes, that PDF will give you the full tour. edit: I'm on the hunt for an in-depth article or video on the chemistry of acrylic vs lacquer vs enamel now. Warmachine fucked around with this message at 18:51 on May 2, 2023 |
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May 2, 2023 18:45
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acrylics can be water or basic alcohol, enamals are oil based, and lacquers use solvents such as MEK or fancier alcohols. lacquer paints can additionally use acrylic resin in the formulation
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May 2, 2023 18:59
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Raskolnikov38 posted:acrylics can be water or basic alcohol, enamals are oil based, and lacquers use solvents such as MEK or fancier alcohols. lacquer paints can additionally use acrylic resin in the formulation See that's kinda what I'm digging at--there's the carrier 'solvent' (which in this case can be water) and the actual paint pigment. From what I gather, both actually matter in the classification, and at least at first blush means that the common shorthand of using the carrier as the determinant might be misleading. And I'm wondering if this shorthand is what lead to some of the problems I encountered in my most recent project.
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May 2, 2023 19:11
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stealie72 posted:Clear up some confusion for me: It sounds like you're talking about a method used by car modellers to do perfect raised lettering on things like valve covers like this one I did a few years ago:  The letters were first painted in silver lacquer. Then the whole thing is covered with red enamel. After the enamel cures, you rub the letters with a qtip soaked in enamel thinner which removes the red enamel, but leaves the silver lacquer underneath. I don't know if I would try this method with acrylic for the underlying paint. Maybe it would work, but I'd rather just use lacquer because it's way more durable.
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May 2, 2023 21:54
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^^^ that's exactly what I'm trying to do, for raised cockpit details/surfaces and potentially for chipping. My logic was definitely to have the more durable paint underneath with the acrylic on top. Also, my head hurts with all of the variations of paint discussed since I posted!
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May 2, 2023 22:53
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Charliegrs posted:I don't know if I would try this method with acrylic for the underlying paint. Maybe it would work, but I'd rather just use lacquer because it's way more durable. Yeah I would probably avoid any technique that involves rubbing away at an enamel coat on top of a (water based) acrylic base coat. Even if the solvents you're using don't necessarily react with the acrylic, their grip to the plastic is generally tenuous at best anyway and they could be abraded away or lifted off. I guess if you really wanted to do this, make sure you were using a strong primer like Mr Surfacer or a rattle can. For my Bogue I did a coat of lacquer teak colour, followed by enamel 5N blue which I immediately started rubbing at with a sanding sponge before it had dried fully which gave quite a nice weathered effect. Only a lacquer would have withstood this sort of treatment! 
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May 2, 2023 23:25
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I don't think I'll ever be brave enough to spray lacquer in my home but god speed to the ones that do.
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May 2, 2023 23:25
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Fitted the new upgrades today, some went smoothly and some not so much. The first one is a new sound card. The original sound card is based off a Panzer III as these sound cards were brand new at the time and that’s all there was. Over time more sound cards have become available including one more accurate to the sound of the Tiger’s Maybach engine. This is the original start up and shut down sound. https://i.imgur.com/kQAuOyP.mp4 This is the new start up and shut down sound. https://i.imgur.com/uA2gT09.mp4 The next order of business was fitting the new smoke unit. The new unit draws air through via a fan, as opposed to the original forcing air into the chamber via a reciprocating piston.  New unit on the left, old unit on the right. The new unit is proportional and requires soldering to the motor connections so the fan speed and smoke is determined by how much power is going to the gearboxes. The process went fairly smoothly and it certainly put out a good volume of smoke. Unfortunately I’m used to the piston units with which any more than a few drops of fluid drowns the unit. These new ones need quite a bit more and in short I ran it without enough fluid in, burnt half the wick to a cinder, and melted the end of the filler tube shut. Oh and it stinks of burnt plastic. Whoops. I was able to rectify it and I’ve got some Kevlar wick arriving tomorrow as burnt wicks are apparently both a rite of passage and commonplace with these units. I’m very happy with the result though. https://i.imgur.com/MAPk5bu.mp4 Revving up the engine. https://i.imgur.com/3P7U5Gp.mp4 The Tiger is on the move. Unfortunately I did some unavoidable damage to the paintwork when I removed the exhaust shrouds. Unlike the original smoker which just has the smoke tubes poking through holes in the back hull plate, these actually go up and into the exhaust stack which necessitated pulling them both apart. Shouldn’t need more than a minor touch up and some targeted weathering.
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May 2, 2023 23:46
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ijyt posted:I don't think I'll ever be brave enough to spray lacquer in my home but god speed to the ones that do. I used to do it all the time with one of those cheap Amazon spray booths with the hose up against one of those window fans that can suck air out. Of course I still wore a respirator. After spraying if I let the fans running for about 20-30 mins I wouldn't be able to smell any fumes. Id even do this with 2K clear which is REALLY nasty stuff and it would air out just fine.
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May 3, 2023 00:35
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20-30 minutes seems like a fairly long time, and proposing his-and-hers respirators to my girlfriend seems like an excellent way to get banished to the garage. So for us folks - how much tolerance does airbrushed lacquer have for temperature and humidity outdoors? Most of the warnings I’ve seen seemed to have more to do with spraycan propellant than the paint itself.
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May 3, 2023 05:11
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CommunityEdition posted:20-30 minutes seems like a fairly long time, and proposing his-and-hers respirators to my girlfriend seems like an excellent way to get banished to the garage. So for us folks - how much tolerance does airbrushed lacquer have for temperature and humidity outdoors? Most of the warnings I’ve seen seemed to have more to do with spraycan propellant than the paint itself. Well if you you don't have a spare room to paint in that you don't share with anyone else then yeah it's probably not going to work out too well. But you have a garage? You should have said that from the beginning! That's the perfect place to paint. The temp in the garage is not too terribly important if you leave the model and spray can inside until right when you need to paint then head out to the garage, spray the paint then leave the model out there for about 15 minutes then bring it inside to cure fully. The off gasing really won't be bad at all at that point as most of the fumes from spray paint are from the actual spraying process. Also it's a good idea to do it with the garage door open and maybe even a fan to your back. Edit: I used to spray outside in Arizona summers when it's like 105-110F every day. That's definitely not good weather for spray painting but like I said as long as you bring the model inside immediately after spraying it should be fine. I never had any issues. Charliegrs fucked around with this message at 05:24 on May 3, 2023 |
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May 3, 2023 05:22
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Is there any companies making modern kits / kits to modern standards of muscle cars or just older cars? American cars in particular as I know Tamiya has a few older Japanese cars but I don’t have much interest in them, even though I know the kits would be great. I’ve got a real hankering to build a a cuda or something, but everything I get interested is AMT 80s tool. I did their 57 Chevy Belair years ago and it wasn’t great - lots of cleaning and it just doesn’t live up to modern model standards. I’m thinking I will have to just suck it up and do the extra work but I thought it was worth asking, maybe there’s something out there my local doesn’t have. Unrelated - I hadn’t been to a hobby shop since before covid and it was so nice browsing shelves, seeing new and unexpected things. Kind of don’t get that as much online where I go looking for particular items or ranges, I guess I mostly stopped in-store shopping during covid and even now I only really do groceries. I didn’t even hate a stranger talking to me as much as I used to, forcing me to take off my headphones to hear him.
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May 3, 2023 12:10
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DRINK ME posted:Is there any companies making modern kits / kits to modern standards of muscle cars or just older cars? American cars in particular as I know Tamiya has a few older Japanese cars but I don’t have much interest in them, even though I know the kits would be great. Holy crap is it bad. Scalemates says it's a 1990 tool, and the molding is just kind of. . . mushy? Nothing fits right, the plastic is cheap, and the instructions are terrible. The only positive is it took me back to making crappy kits when I was a kid in the 80s. Personally not super interested in cars, but the new Tamiya Nissan Fairlady is calling me a bit. stealie72 fucked around with this message at 13:15 on May 3, 2023 |
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May 3, 2023 13:10
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stealie72 posted:Funny you mention. I've had a low-end Revell 69 Camaro kit sitting on my shelf for years now and broke it out yesterday for something to do between layers of paint on Tamiya spitfire I'm working on. Meanwhile Revell GmbH has the massive balls to put that same kit on shelves with a big NEW label on the box. They've been doing this a lot with recent releases even if the mold is ancient. They do have a Cuda kit that appears to be decent enough though, 2013 molding.
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May 3, 2023 14:08
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Lavinia Spenlow posted:Meanwhile Revell GmbH has the massive balls to put that same kit on shelves with a big NEW label on the box. They've been doing this a lot with recent releases even if the mold is ancient. I did the Challenger version of this kit and I went together like a dream. Almost like Tamiya like in quality. But yeah for the most part if you're looking to build models of older American cars like 60s-80s you're going to be stuck with old tooled Revell and AMT/MPC models that are a pain in the rear end to build. The Japanese companies like Tamiya make great kits but they generally only offer kits for Japanese and European cars.
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May 3, 2023 16:14
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Charliegrs posted:I did the Challenger version of this kit and I went together like a dream. Almost like Tamiya like in quality.
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May 3, 2023 16:35
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AMT produced some new car kits in the 90s that are actually pretty good, trouble is you can’t tell from the box if you are getting one of those or something based on ancient dealership promo tooling. One musclecar kit that is very good is the AMT 66 Olds 442. It has good detail and a separate frame. A couple of fifties kits with the same quality are the 58 Edsel and 58 Plymouth. Revell Germany actually just released a new muscle car kit, a 71 442. It’s not as good as the AMT 66, less detail in the chassis and drivetrain.
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May 3, 2023 17:59
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stealie72 posted:The two remaining old school local shops in my area are both packed to the gills with NOS muscle-era car models. I assume the market for these dropped off pretty quickly and dramatically? This basically describes every model shop I've ever been to including hobby lobby. I'm sure there's many reasons for it. I'm sure they are the best sellers since I believe the modelling demographic skews heavily boomer. And I'm sure AMT/Revell probably markets to more hobby shops. Also I think the average model shop owner skews heavily boomer as well. So it's not really surprising that these shops have a huge muscle car model selection that's typically what their customers want because that's the cars they were into when they were younger versus my generation that was more into Japanese cars.
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May 3, 2023 18:28
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It’s probably more that those kits used to be made in huge numbers and used to be everywhere, so any older shop with a lot of old stock is going to have lots of them.
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May 3, 2023 18:50
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The biggest cultural divide between American and European scale modelling (and obv I'm generalising here) is that muscle car kits are almost non existent in the UK/EU aside from the likes of The Fast & The Furious branded stuff. Even incredibly well stocked model shops/online stores don't sell that kind of thing. I watched this video from Andy's Hobby HQ recently where he goes through a 3000 kit stash he recently bought and every single one is a muscle car kit. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l0bSdgW2yqw I like to think I'm pretty familiar with even the most niche areas of modelling these days but seeing photos of US model shops full of muscle car kits feels the same as looking at a store full of railway modelling stuff - like I'm looking through a portal into a bizarro version of the same hobby that makes me realise how little I actually know. I can only assume that the Revell USA / Revell Germany divide is partly to blame, as we very rarely see old Revell USA, Monogram, AMT (aside from Star Trek stuff) appearing second hand here either.
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May 3, 2023 19:05
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Hey, what the gently caress. https://twitter.com/TukgOVMGcB4tluW/status/1653643001057648641
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May 3, 2023 19:38
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It's super cool. That guy's been working on the sea base for a couple of months. There's a series of lifters about an inch apart under the sea surface, and then the whole boat is riding back and forth on a little seesaw platform. It's really elegant, in addition to looking rad as hell.
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May 3, 2023 19:42
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tidal wave emulator posted:I watched this video from Andy's Hobby HQ recently where he goes through a 3000 kit stash he recently bought and every single one is a muscle car kit. He has some JoHan kits from the 60s, I remember hobby shops still stocking some of those when I was a kid in the 80s. I’m going to have to look to see if I still have some if the ones I built and see if they’re salvageable. It’s a long gone kit manufacturer that made a lot of subjects no one else did and it seems like little of their tooling survived to be reissued by anyone else.
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May 3, 2023 20:17
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Lavinia Spenlow posted:They do have a Cuda kit that appears to be decent enough though, 2013 molding. Thanks Fornax, that gives me some ideas on what to look out for. A lot of the AMT kits at my store lack plastic sealing so it’s possible to peak inside the box and get an idea what you’re getting. Searching around and there’s a company called DDA (Diecast Distributers Australia) doing some Australian car model kits, but they’re using repurposed diecast model tooling and the couple of reviews I found don’t make them seem terribly interesting. Shame because I’d love to build some Aussie stuff.
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May 3, 2023 22:32
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Australia being such a small market comparatively not many companies bother to make kits of our cars and the impetus is further gone by not having a car industry anymore not much is about. There is a company that does resin bodies for a couple of styles and they’ll be on the bna model world site if anywhere
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May 3, 2023 23:07
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Fornax Disaster posted:It’s probably more that those kits used to be made in huge numbers and used to be everywhere, so any older shop with a lot of old stock is going to have lots of them. Yeah, in the days before video games, model car kits were a HUGE business in the US. It was one of the few indoor hobbies that were socially acceptable for young men to have back then. When I was young I used to read my dad's old car magazines and they were full of ads for model cars.
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May 3, 2023 23:18
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Holy poo poo. I’ve never done resin models before and I can barely recall what I’ve read about resin in the past, but instant temptation to open my wallet. It’s the XB Falcon “police kit” which would become this 
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May 3, 2023 23:26
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Charliegrs posted:So it's not really surprising that these shops have a huge muscle car model selection that's typically what their customers want because that's the cars they were into when they were younger versus my generation that was more into Japanese cars. I'm guessing that you're probably around my age given that you're on this site and the Japanese car thing makes sense because they were the cool cars when I was younger. My dream car was a Lancer Evo. But I find that some of the actual kids these days seem to be interested in the big Detroit stuff. I suppose it is because they're not the car that dad likes from Japan. One of my nephews is super into 40s and 50s sedans. No idea how he got into that. More of a die cast collector than a model builder, which is curious for a 12 year old.
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May 3, 2023 23:38
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grassy gnoll posted:I'm glad someone else appreciates the excellence of the Free French identification schema. I always enjoy the secondary markings Tamiya puts with the kits. It’s so much more fun than another white star.
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May 4, 2023 00:02
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grassy gnoll posted:It's super cool. That guy's been working on the sea base for a couple of months. There's a series of lifters about an inch apart under the sea surface, and then the whole boat is riding back and forth on a little seesaw platform. It's really elegant, in addition to looking rad as hell. oh man I'll have to do a backscroll and check that out. I've never seen an effect like that done before. 
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May 4, 2023 00:31
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Fornax Disaster posted:AMT produced some new car kits in the 90s that are actually pretty good, trouble is you can’t tell from the box if you are getting one of those or something based on ancient dealership promo tooling. What scale are car models usually at? I’d imagine either 1:18 or 1:24, given that’s how diecasts operate, but it might be something completely different
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May 4, 2023 03:22
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The American kits are mostly a weird scale, 1/25. This might have something to do with their origins as dealership promotional models. I dug out a couple of my old builds. I did these twenty years ago so they are bit worse for wear. The 58 Edsel is an AMT kit. The 65 Impala is a Revell that was also pretty nice.  This primered 65 Riviera is a typical older AMT kit, according to Scalemates parts of it are actually from 1965. Other than some gross seams in the bumpers the body details are good, but the engine compartment and underside are pretty simple and toy like.   This is an unbuilt AMT 58 Belvedere, a new tooling from the early 2000s. Loads of small parts, separate frame and exhaust. The white part of the whitewall tires are inserts. 
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May 4, 2023 04:38
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DRINK ME posted:Holy poo poo. I’ve never done resin models before Wear a filter mask while doing anything remotely abrasive to the resin; sanding, cutting, anything needs a filter because the dust does bad things to lungs. Wet sanding and a mask is the recommended solution. An ordinary particulate rated N95 will do fine, just try and have some ventilation. In other news, despite the click-baity title, this is a very good comparison between a new-tooling Revell kit, and an old one being sold as new today. The new kit looks great, the old one would have me looking for a refund. Check reviews to avoid getting a clunky antique sold as new! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R1rOfcerek0
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May 4, 2023 06:43
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Dr. Lunchables posted:What scale are car models usually at? I’d imagine either 1:18 or 1:24, given that’s how diecasts operate, but it might be something completely different I've seen 1:16, 1:24, 1:25 and 1:43 being quite common depending on the subject. mllaneza posted:In other news, despite the click-baity title, this is a very good comparison between a new-tooling Revell kit, and an old one being sold as new today. The new kit looks great, the old one would have me looking for a refund. Check reviews to avoid getting a clunky antique sold as new! I got burned a few times by buying a kit that looked good on the boxart with a decent parts count and too small (or even no) pictures on the box of the completed kit to identify that it was an old mold. Gotta say that on the new-style Revell boxes it's a lot clearer because they use the box back for multiple pictures including showing the sprues.
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May 4, 2023 08:03
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Lavinia Spenlow posted:I've seen 1:16, 1:24, 1:25 and 1:43 being quite common depending on the subject. From frontline in Aus, the red lines are models they've categorised wrong, mostly ships and a Saturn V rocket kit  ijyt posted:Hey, what the gently caress. I looked at all the WIP videos down their feed, need this for every single boat model I have 
NTRabbit fucked around with this message at 09:38 on May 4, 2023 |
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