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5TonsOfFlax
Aug 31, 2001

smax posted:

Anticipated release schedule for PrusaSlicer 2.6?

2.6 is apparently in final bugfixes phase.

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Neo Rasa
Mar 8, 2007
Everyone should play DUKE games.

:dukedog:
A couple of days ago I made a long post about my disappointment in Creality's all metal extruder and how the arm aligns with the gears/etc. stuff even after a lot of checking. Given the problem I was having I was like, what the hell, so I ordered a non-Creality metal extruder that has two gears instead of a gear and a wheel and in the meantime to gently caress around I put the stock plastic arm on the metal extruder but with the newer spring and the older screws/etc. bits.

Just a completely jury-rigged rear end setup here I planned to only even try once or twice if I had time til the new extruder is in so of course THIS is the single instance where...I did it














It's not perfect but gently caress yeah :unsmith:

What's causes that weirdness just on some of the port side?

Neo Rasa fucked around with this message at 03:11 on May 12, 2023

armorer
Aug 6, 2012

I like metal.

Neo Rasa posted:

A couple of days ago I made a long post about my disappointment in Creality's all metal extruder and how the arm aligns with the gears/etc. stuff even after a lot of checking. Given the problem I was having I was like, what the hell, so I ordered a non-Creality metal extruder that has two gears instead of a gear and a wheel and in the meantime to gently caress around I put the stock plastic arm on the metal extruder but with the newer spring and the older screws/etc. bits.

Just a completely jury-rigged rear end setup here I planned to only even try once or twice if I had time til the new extruder is in so of course THIS is the single instance where...I did it














It's not perfect but gently caress yeah :unsmith:

What's causes that weirdness just on some of the port side?

My first thought is that's the z-seam. You can mitigate it to some extent but it's hard to totally hide it. Ideally the slicer would be making the z layer steps on a hard corner like by the stern or something

Neo Rasa
Mar 8, 2007
Everyone should play DUKE games.

:dukedog:

armorer posted:

My first thought is that's the z-seam. You can mitigate it to some extent but it's hard to totally hide it. Ideally the slicer would be making the z layer steps on a hard corner like by the stern or something

Oh yeah that makes sense, if that's just the way it is no big. Your post made me look at a bunch of other Benchy photos and I definitely see it in that same spot on some too.

Neo Rasa fucked around with this message at 04:27 on May 12, 2023

IncredibleIgloo
Feb 17, 2011





Neo Rasa posted:

Is there a reason to go as high as 12K beyond the visuals like is there some fine work or mechanical application getting something that detailed in resin is good for? Is super precise dental stuff the main thing?

I think the screen resolution in pixels is not quite as important as the print resolution in length. This 12k printer is a hair bigger than a Saturn 2 8k. The Saturn 2 print resolution is 28.5 micron, the Anycubic 12k is going to be 19 micron. So I imagine things will look better/be more smooth, but probably only under a microscope. On the other hand, it might allow for more precise supports and whatnot, which could be good.

Sagebrush
Feb 26, 2012

5TonsOfFlax posted:

I'm about to attend an official Prusa users group meetup in Seattle. Mostly because there is about a 1 in 300 chance of winning a MK4.

Anything in particular any of you would like me to try to find out about?

where's my goddamn 5 extruder XL preorder, josef???


IncredibleIgloo posted:

I think the screen resolution in pixels is not quite as important as the print resolution in length. This 12k printer is a hair bigger than a Saturn 2 8k. The Saturn 2 print resolution is 28.5 micron, the Anycubic 12k is going to be 19 micron. So I imagine things will look better/be more smooth, but probably only under a microscope. On the other hand, it might allow for more precise supports and whatnot, which could be good.

yes, the *k resolution is a stupid poo poo way of describing these printers. pixel dimension is what matters. i wish they'd just specify that figure up front but marketers loving love having a single number that can be Bigger Than even if it's misleading.

there are diminishing returns on reducing pixel size beyond a certain point, though. beyond just not really having a need for that extreme level of detail, at some point you will start to be limited by light scattering and diffraction within the resin rather than screen resolution.

Neo Rasa
Mar 8, 2007
Everyone should play DUKE games.

:dukedog:

Sagebrush posted:

yes, the *k resolution is a stupid poo poo way of describing these printers. pixel dimension is what matters. i wish they'd just specify that figure up front but marketers loving love having a single number that can be Bigger Than even if it's misleading.

Hahaha I noticed that when I was looking at resin printers, kind of frustrating I notice often the specs aren't even listed consistently within the same company's site for printers in the same series so it was difficult to even compare them beyond "bigger K === better"



I was using the grain side of a PEI sheet because I had so little confidence in my ability to get stuff to adhere well but now that seem to have gotten the under-extrusion situation figured out I'm loving the smooth side of it, it seems like I had everything else calibrated relatively well and it was that dang metal extruder that wasn't fully delivering. When the mashedup one I have now goes I'll try the dual gear one and see how that is.

I'm sure there's no new information here in general but this thread's been awesome with advice, I know I haven't replied to every answer I get about stuff but thank you everyone.

Neo Rasa fucked around with this message at 14:13 on May 12, 2023

Bad Munki
Nov 4, 2008

We're all mad here.


Apparently Simplify3D just had a major update. Includes some amazing new features, like…ironing, and monotonic infill

https://www.simplify3d.com/products/simplify3d-software/whats-new/version-5-1/

w00tmonger
Mar 9, 2011

F-F-FRIDAY NIGHT MOTHERFUCKERS

Bad Munki posted:

Apparently Simplify3D just had a major update. Includes some amazing new features, like…ironing, and monotonic infill

https://www.simplify3d.com/products/simplify3d-software/whats-new/version-5-1/

Ahaha, and the ability to adjust flow rates

Acid Reflux
Oct 18, 2004

Bad Munki posted:

Simplify3D

L, and I cannot remotely stress this part enough, OL.

RodShaft
Jul 31, 2003
Like an evil horny Santa Claus.


How do I keep it from doing this? It looks like it shifted half an inch. ender 3v2 clone. (Aquila)

Roundboy
Oct 21, 2008
Any tips or tricks to removing a magnetic sheet glued to your build plate?

I have a larger PEI plate and got a new magnet since my old one is cracking and has some marks from other 'incidents' but this is a hellish experience to get it off. So far I am heating the bed to 110C and taking a scraper to it, but this is not fun.

w00tmonger
Mar 9, 2011

F-F-FRIDAY NIGHT MOTHERFUCKERS

RodShaft posted:

How do I keep it from doing this? It looks like it shifted half an inch. ender 3v2 clone. (Aquila)
Could be a few things,but most likely a belts skipping and shifting for some reason
-belt tension. Too tight/loose
-print temp too high/low. Could be colliding with previous layer if materials depositing too much filament, or depositing in a weird way.
-maybe add a little z-hop? Again could just be colliding on movements between the different parts of the print
-going too fast. Could exagerate all of the above issues. Adding speed makes all your tolerances a lot more relevant if your printers not dialed in

RodShaft
Jul 31, 2003
Like an evil horny Santa Claus.


w00tmonger posted:

Could be a few things,but most likely a belts skipping and shifting for some reason
-belt tension. Too tight/loose
-print temp too high/low. Could be colliding with previous layer if materials depositing too much filament, or depositing in a weird way.
-maybe add a little z-hop? Again could just be colliding on movements between the different parts of the print
-going too fast. Could exagerate all of the above issues. Adding speed makes all your tolerances a lot more relevant if your printers not dialed in

All right I hit the z hop button in cura, and added a twist to the belt tension nut. I'll also bump up the temp 5°. I will try again.

Failson
Sep 2, 2018
Fun Shoe

Bad Munki posted:

Apparently Simplify3D just had a major update. Includes some amazing new features, like…ironing, and monotonic infill

https://www.simplify3d.com/products/simplify3d-software/whats-new/version-5-1/

Guess they weren't dead after all!

What is the favorite slicer around here, by the way?

Neo Rasa
Mar 8, 2007
Everyone should play DUKE games.

:dukedog:

Bad Munki posted:

Apparently Simplify3D just had a major update. Includes some amazing new features, like…ironing, and monotonic infill

https://www.simplify3d.com/products/simplify3d-software/whats-new/version-5-1/

I mean they don't call it Complex3D...

RodShaft
Jul 31, 2003
Like an evil horny Santa Claus.


RodShaft posted:

All right I hit the z hop button in cura, and added a twist to the belt tension nut. I'll also bump up the temp 5°. I will try again.

Now i can't even get a good first layer down before it pulls up the edges again. Oh well. Weekend project

Roundboy
Oct 21, 2008

Failson posted:

Guess they weren't dead after all!

What is the favorite slicer around here, by the way?

Superslicer ->Best features, very slow to update, sometimes has show stopping slicing bugs. This is the only software to take the 'best' of all the others.
Cura -> Kludgy , has some show stopping bugs, light on features but has a couple that are unique to it like tree supports
PrussiaSlicer -> Not as feature rich, but a slow, plodding forward motion to add them to the main branch. Superslicer is based on this and is an add on to it really
Simplfy3d -> Lol No.

Bamboo / OrcaSlicer --> Very very tied to their printers, but will work elsewhere. Very feature light, and defaults to 10k accel so watch out there.

Sagebrush
Feb 26, 2012

prusaslicer -> best all around for all purposes, nobody actually needs anything else
cura -> fine i guess but basically the same as prusaslicer, so why use it when prusaslicer exists?
superslicer -> based on prusaslicer but with all the infuriating poo poo that comes with community maintained open source projects, also none of the extra features are actually important
simplify3d -> worse in every way than every other slicer, also costs money, lol
bamboo/orca/others -> who?

NewFatMike
Jun 11, 2015

The singular upside I learned about Simplify3D last week is that it works for every MakerBot printer, including the recent and pretty good Method X which came out a few years ago (and is now dunked on by the X1C).

The only reason this is an upside is because MakerBot Print, a nerfed version of GrabCAD Print for Stratasys printers, won’t let you do advanced things like “pause at layer” to do things like insert fasteners and bushings.

They only recently took that feature away. So it’s a step above that. If you’ve been hosed by that update, it’s worth knowing :shepface:

The Chairman
Jun 30, 2003

But you forget, mon ami, that there is evil everywhere under the sun

Sagebrush posted:

bamboo/orca/others -> who?

basically BambuSlicer is Bambu's PrusaSlicer fork, and Orca is to Bambu as SuperSlicer is to PrusaSlicer, just another pair of slicers that derive from Slic3r
there's also Creality Print, which is just a janky Cura fork

Neo Rasa
Mar 8, 2007
Everyone should play DUKE games.

:dukedog:
If I have one of those powered dryer boxes that holds a couple of rolls of filament, can I throw a bunch of desiccation packets in there also and uses it as storage?

bbcisdabomb
Jan 15, 2008

SHEESH

RodShaft posted:

Now i can't even get a good first layer down before it pulls up the edges again. Oh well. Weekend project

When I was having a weird layer shift on my Ender 3 v2 it was because I hadn't tightened the bolts on the ends of the x-gantry correctly. It wasn't the belt tension or the eccentric nuts, but it was basically everything. I could watch the right side stay in place for ~2mm when the left side started to rise. If that sounds like you, I followed along with this video and it fixed everything.

Acid Reflux
Oct 18, 2004

Somehow in the span of a single week, I've gone from "single-color 3D prints have always been just fine" to "Maybe a second AMS isn't such a bad idea." I may have already found a small niche to sell some multicolor products in, and while four colors would be perfectly fine, five or six would make things just a bit better. Gonna test the waters on Etsy this weekend after I get a few more items made. Maybe I'll get lucky and the first AMS can eventually buy itself a sibling.

I am utterly and completely in love with this P1P setup, it was absolutely worth pre-blowing the next few months' hobby budget on. Even if it turns out that nobody wants to buy my poo poo, I'll just happily keep making it for myself.

Roll Fizzlebeef
Sep 9, 2003


Sagebrush posted:

where's my goddamn 5 extruder XL preorder, josef???

I would also like to know the answer to this.

Roundboy
Oct 21, 2008
Putting this here because more eyes/smart people, etc

I had a working voron, cw1, AB,klicky, etc. Then I built a cw2 SB with tap AND can use, and everything went to poo poo


Everything is wired nice and working, except that 20% into prints, my extruder stops pushing filament. It's still running, it just loses grip on the drat thing.

I have no winsun fans in it now, but I have a couple hemara fans coming for the hotend as I'm told it's heat creep. I also realized my reverse Bowden is 4mmx2mm when I should really have 3mm ID. It worked before so I don't worry, but replace I will do

I've done the tests with the cw2 and It can hold filament fine, but I've even set the tension higher. I can extrude and retract til I get bored with non-issue.

Printing, it's a 30-44 min in and it's just printing on air like the filament ran out. I can fix it a bit by forcing some down but it just happens again

Seriously, wtf this is the most annoying issue.

Deviant
Sep 26, 2003

i've forgotten all of your names.


reminds me i still need to cancel my 1 toolhead prusa XL

dexefiend
Apr 25, 2003

THE GOGGLES DO NOTHING!

Roundboy posted:

Putting this here because more eyes/smart people, etc

I had a working voron, cw1, AB,klicky, etc. Then I built a cw2 SB with tap AND can use, and everything went to poo poo


Everything is wired nice and working, except that 20% into prints, my extruder stops pushing filament. It's still running, it just loses grip on the drat thing.

I have no winsun fans in it now, but I have a couple hemara fans coming for the hotend as I'm told it's heat creep. I also realized my reverse Bowden is 4mmx2mm when I should really have 3mm ID. It worked before so I don't worry, but replace I will do

I've done the tests with the cw2 and It can hold filament fine, but I've even set the tension higher. I can extrude and retract til I get bored with non-issue.

Printing, it's a 30-44 min in and it's just printing on air like the filament ran out. I can fix it a bit by forcing some down but it just happens again

Seriously, wtf this is the most annoying issue.

Do you have the SB2240?

Roundboy
Oct 21, 2008

dexefiend posted:

Do you have the SB2240?

No, 2209 which is identical except for the chip obviously. Is there some sort of issue with the extruder there? I can hear the motor turning just fine, but it's getting really hot. I've set the run current to . 5 but I never felt the CW1 to compare if that is normal or not. I've had current as low as . 35 and as high as . 65 no change

Edit and I've tested every aspect on the bench before I installed. Temps are normal, even used the temp sensor on board. Used adxl, heater works, SB neopixels work. I'm kinda running out of things to check and replace

Nerobro
Nov 4, 2005

Rider now with 100% more titanium!

Roundboy posted:

No, 2209 which is identical except for the chip obviously. Is there some sort of issue with the extruder there? I can hear the motor turning just fine, but it's getting really hot. I've set the run current to . 5 but I never felt the CW1 to compare if that is normal or not. I've had current as low as . 35 and as high as . 65 no change

Edit and I've tested every aspect on the bench before I installed. Temps are normal, even used the temp sensor on board. Used adxl, heater works, SB neopixels work. I'm kinda running out of things to check and replace

This smells of heat creep. Check your hot end cooling fan. Or throw a thermistor at the top of the hot end stack.

BlackIronHeart
Aug 2, 2004

PROCEED
loving A. I was wondering why all my bridging and overhangs started looking like lovely, droopy messes. Maybe the setting that's capping my fan speed at 40% is the culprit, how did that happen. :cripes:

Roundboy
Oct 21, 2008

Nerobro posted:

This smells of heat creep. Check your hot end cooling fan. Or throw a thermistor at the top of the hot end stack.

That is the general consensus. But the problem is unless this fan is absolute dogshit, how is that gonna get fixed? I was under the impression GDSTIME fans were a decent choice, but I do have the recommended ones on the way.

I know the SB is a new design and cooling is greatly improved, but I hoped it would not be so sensitive to fans. I have a spare thermistor I can see how hot it's getting up there.

The toolhead one is way up there, but that is tied to the electronics and likely reading high

LightRailTycoon
Mar 24, 2017
My printer does amazing with abs or petg, but heat creep jams after 35-45 minutes on PLA.

I understand PLA has the most problems with heat creep, especially in enclosed printers.


I think it’s my nf-crazy magnum hotend, but I also need to file the x-carriage down to improve cooling airflow.

LordOfThePants
Sep 25, 2002

Got my X1C yesterday after a week of delivery attempts from UPS. They send them signature required and there's no way to sign for it online or redirect it to a UPS store. I had to pay to have them hold it until I could be here to actually sign.

I cleaned the build plate with Dawn and there was basically no adhesion with the IIIDMax PLA I had loaded. Used some glue stick on the whole plate and it came out perfect - easily the best quality "first" print of any of my printers. I had a short roll of filament, so I stuck it in Slot 1, put a duplicate color in Slot 2, and started a print of a purge bucket. Changed over to the second slot automatically when the first one ran out, although now I have a jam in the first slot of the AMS I'm going to need to completely disassemble to clear.

Has anyone used the IIIDMax ASA filament? I have some ABS coming from Bambu, but I'd like to get some ASA for outdoor projects.

Nerobro
Nov 4, 2005

Rider now with 100% more titanium!

Roundboy posted:

That is the general consensus. But the problem is unless this fan is absolute dogshit, how is that gonna get fixed? I was under the impression GDSTIME fans were a decent choice, but I do have the recommended ones on the way.

I know the SB is a new design and cooling is greatly improved, but I hoped it would not be so sensitive to fans. I have a spare thermistor I can see how hot it's getting up there.

The toolhead one is way up there, but that is tied to the electronics and likely reading high

The fans you bought, what are the specs on them? the Differecce between a .05w and a .09 or a .15 watt fan is .. significant. It doesn't mean it's dogshit, it just means you got the wrong one. The replacement fan I got for my V0 was the wrong wattage, even though it was listed as the right one.

Generally, if anything claims to be "quieter" it's generally also lower powered. (I'm looking at you noctua..)

dexefiend
Apr 25, 2003

THE GOGGLES DO NOTHING!
I print PLA with the doors open on my Voron.

Opinionated
May 29, 2002



dexefiend posted:

I print PLA with the doors open on my Voron.

I do the same with my X1C or at the very least have spacers that give an air gap around the entire top glass. Though I never really had any major clogs with it tbh. I've had issues with my prusa clogging when I closed my enclosure doors before.


LordOfThePants posted:

I cleaned the build plate with Dawn and there was basically no adhesion with the IIIDMax PLA I had loaded.

Are you using the cool plate or a textured pei plate? I generally use their textured pei plate, or when I want a smooth finish I use an aftermarket Honeybadger PEI sheet that works far better than the default cool plate as it's not even a PEI surface. The cool and high temperature plate stickers are the only real issue I've had with my X1C. They gave me a refund for my high temp buildplate sticker because it got a bubble in it the second or first time I used it.

I've just been sticking with the textured pei and honeybadger smooth pei that I usually print at 60C to prevent any adhesion issues.

The Eyes Have It
Feb 10, 2008

Third Eye Sees All
...snookums
I have a cool workshop and venting the top cover isn't enough to prevent heat creep failures with PLA in big (17+hour) prints. I had to remove it entirely before the problem went away.

Bad Munki
Nov 4, 2008

We're all mad here.


What’s the current crowd favorite brand for plain old PLA? I’ve used wyzworks a fair amount in the past and haven’t had any problems that I’m aware of, curious if there are nicer options though. Preferably available through amazon for simplicity.

Running low on a few colors and am planning to stock up a little.

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tracecomplete
Feb 26, 2017

Cheap: IIID MAX/Fremover is fine.

Nicer: Overture is a canonical good choice, though I've had trouble with their matte stuff. I've been liking Duramic lately, in part because they seem to put more attention into color matching (they claim Pantone colors, and they're not quite that accurate between materials, but it's pretty close).

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