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I had 5 kits show up from Sprue Brothers for my birthday this week so I'm looking at maybe ordering things and over the next few months so they show up for the fall/winter. Just tested the water with the Tamiya Nissan Fairlady since they only had a couple in stock.
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May 14, 2023 20:12
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Arquinsiel posted:HLJ are one of the more reputable sites out there. They've been great for over a decade. I've been a happy customer of theirs since the late 90s. They even gave me a couple free kits when I visited their booth at a US anime convention.
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May 14, 2023 21:39
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ijyt posted:It's a soldering mat! I ended up getting one of these recently, though I haven't used it yet. The GamersNexus YouTube channel does incredibly good consumer protection work and have a quality to their journalism that stands in contrast to the unfortunate brand name and is pretty much the only 'content creator branded' stuff I'll buy. They rolled out a solder mat right around the time I was looking for one and I snapped it up. It's going to be a staple of my new workbench once I get around to assembling that. I just haven't been feeling the urge recently to do hobby/handy work. My other hobby tools comment is that luer slip syringes are 100x better than the squeeze-bulb 'hobby' pipettes, are roughly the same price for a hundred of them, and do the job of pulling and measuring paint so much better. For example, a syringe pushes all of the paint out, leaving no residue inside the syringe so you know you got every drop you measured. Well, except for whatever got left in the tip, which is negligible. And the 1mL 'insulin' type are pretty much the perfect volume for measuring out for paint mixes. Never going back to plastic squeeze-bulbs. Still waiting on my crapgun. Should be here by end of month.
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May 14, 2023 22:19
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Warmachine posted:My other hobby tools comment is that luer slip syringes are 100x better than the squeeze-bulb 'hobby' pipettes, are roughly the same price for a hundred of them, and do the job of pulling and measuring paint so much better. For example, a syringe pushes all of the paint out, leaving no residue inside the syringe so you know you got every drop you measured. Well, except for whatever got left in the tip, which is negligible. And the 1mL 'insulin' type are pretty much the perfect volume for measuring out for paint mixes. Never going back to plastic squeeze-bulbs.. Its also easy-ish to meaaure and mix inside the srynge by drawing the colors/thinner that you need into the srynge (clean off the tip between them), then a little air, then mix it all together, then squirt where you need it. If you get caps, thy're airtight enough to keep the paint fresh in the srynge between coats.
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May 14, 2023 23:35
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Oh man I am here to tell you that Vallejo primer means it when they say apply with an airbrush, it doesn't hand brush at all.
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May 15, 2023 06:09
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mllaneza posted:And they're not actually forcing shipments right now. So long as they have the space, you already paid for the models so they can afford to hang on to them until they get crunched for space. And thanks to this thread, I'm throwing in a <$10 gunpla for funsies.
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May 15, 2023 16:23
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stealie72 posted:Whelp, the kit in my private warehouse has a countdown till automatic shipping (started at 60 yesterday and actually flipped to 59 today) so their largesse with space is not infinite. Going to order the other ones I want in the next few weeks so that once a couple "available in 3-5 days" stragglers show up I can ship it. FYI, they don't autoship once that timer runs out. It is effectively unlimited, unless you really start pushing it or they are completely out of space.
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May 15, 2023 16:45
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Kibner posted:FYI, they don't autoship once that timer runs out. It is effectively unlimited, unless you really start pushing it or they are completely out of space.
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May 15, 2023 19:16
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I remember buying Perfect Grade gunpla from HLJ in the late 90s/early 00s - what a flashback!
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May 16, 2023 18:08
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The wooden deck for my 1/700 HMS dreadnought has finally arrived. Can I confirm what to do? I understand that the Hull Should be physically complete and painted before fixing the wooden deck down? What should I use to stick it?
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May 16, 2023 22:22
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What brand of deck is it? Most likely it's self adhesive and will just require you to remove the film on the back.
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May 16, 2023 22:42
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Southern Heel posted:The wooden deck for my 1/700 HMS dreadnought has finally arrived. Can I confirm what to do? I understand that the Hull Should be physically complete and painted before fixing the wooden deck down? What should I use to stick it? I followed the instructions I posted earlier in this thread from the model warships forum and it turned out great. I painted the hull, weathered it, killed the adhesive with matte varnish, sprayed a little super thin brown on the wooden deck to dull it down a little, then stuck it on with clear gloss gel medium. I'm glad I didn't use the built in adhesive as I did have some trimming to do with the wood. It was incredibly helpful to be able to test for and tweak as needed.     You can see in the last pic why I toned down the deck with a thin brown. The original color was way too bright. I thinned down some AK Interactive dark brown was for green vehicles and sprayed it on haphazardly and it turned out just how I wanted it. Chuck_D fucked around with this message at 02:17 on May 17, 2023 |
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May 17, 2023 02:08
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That turned out really neat, I've experimented with putting washes like AK's enamel 'dark wash for wood decks' onto wooden decks but it's never looked quite right so I've taken it off. I might have a go at lightly airbrushing my next one and see how it turns out. I'd always practice on the spare wood that you pop the decks out of to see how it looks before doing it on the real thing though.
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May 17, 2023 11:45
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Thank you - I couldn't remember what page the previous advice was on!
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May 17, 2023 12:03
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I have embarked on my Big Summer Project for my model club's D-Day themed group build, due in August. I've chosen another dreadnought, this time HMS Warspite undertaking her shore bombardment duties off Normandy (allegedly firing the first rounds of D-Day but apparently HMS Belfast might have accidentally gone first). My plan is to try and work off this photo as far as possible, depicting X turret out of service and the rest pointed to the heavens. At this stage in her career she was, to use the technical term, completely hosed. As well as the turret she was also down one engine and was sitting incredibly low in the water (check how high the bootline was at that point). This was her last hurrah before they finally sent her to the knackers yard.  I'm using Trumpeter's 1942 1/700 Warspite, with Flyhawk's big ol box of fun - 10 sheets of photo etch, brass barrels, replacement guns, wood deck etc.   I've had to do a fair bit of research to figure out how exactly she was set up in June 1944 - the Warspite edition of Anatomy of the Ship has been invaluable for figuring out, amongst others things, how many 20mm oerlikons it had at that point (shitloads) and to learn that all the 6" casemates were removed in preparation for Normandy. I wish I'd read this before I drilled out and fitted the brass barrels for all of these, only to have to then remove them.     I've also bought a load of 3D printed bits from Starling Models. I needed extra oerlikon tubs (zarebas) and the only sources were either Model Monkey from the US or Micro Master from NZ, both of which would have been prohibitively expensive to order to the UK. I gave Mike at Starling a message asking if he was able do some and after giving him the measurements he was able to design, test print and then put them up for sale on his site within 48 hours. I can't recommend him enough if you're after 1/700 (and 1/350) stuff in the UK.  I've got as far as dry fitting most of the superstructure and started to attach PE where appropriate to make painting as straightforward later on as possible.     Lots more to go!
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May 18, 2023 00:34
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May 18, 2023 01:20
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It's a real weird thing what with "knackers yard" being defined in UK law and being a super-widespread term and all, but "knacker" is a racial slur and we should try stop using it.
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May 18, 2023 04:05
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Arquinsiel posted:It's a real weird thing what with "knackers yard" being defined in UK law and being a super-widespread term and all, but "knacker" is a racial slur and we should try stop using it. What race??
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May 18, 2023 04:07
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Irish Traveller. It's the one I would have thrown around most casually myself growing up so I'm trying to be less poo poo.
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May 18, 2023 04:13
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Arquinsiel posted:Irish Traveller. It's the one I would have thrown around most casually myself growing up so I'm trying to be less poo poo. I have never heard of that usage or definition before, nor can I find it online? The closest is Irish slang version of chav/redneck/bogan
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May 18, 2023 04:18
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Did you check wikipedia? Because it's there at the end of the section on "Slang use".
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May 18, 2023 04:26
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Fair enough, I'd never heard that usage either and I've been using knackered to mean tired my whole life. I did consciously stop using 'gypped' to mean swindled when I learned its origins though, that one seemed a bit more obvious. Last night I made a start on the sea base too, this is going to be a bit simpler (hopefully) than previous bases as it won't be in motion.  However, I think there will probably be a bit more of a dynamic sea base in a future project as I'd been eyeing up the Matchbox/Revell 1/72 and 1/144 Flower-class Corvette kits for years but knew I'd never have space to display one. Then I discovered Atlantic Models do it in 1/700, so I reckon this could look good rolling and tumbling over some north sea waves.   
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May 18, 2023 10:16
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I love how British ship names are either badass poo poo like Warrior, Invincible, and Agamemnon or poo poo like Buttercup with seemingly nothing in between.
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May 18, 2023 11:52
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I'm pretty comfortable with underpainting as demonstrated by Night Shift/Plasmo for tonal variation on large panels (i.e. the sides of my little HMS Dreadnought) - but I'm not sure what colour to use. The instructions suggest Vallejo 70-994 which is a really dark grey - probably the 'real' colour used, but since colour lightens and desaturates with distance I figure it probably makes sense to paint the ship something much, much lighter. Should the colour be warm, cold or a fully desaturated grey for RN battleships?
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May 18, 2023 11:52
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Cthulu Carl posted:I love how British ship names are either badass poo poo like Warrior, Invincible, and Agamemnon or poo poo like Buttercup with seemingly nothing in between. I'm actually semi-convinced that the main reason for the naval arms race leading up to WWI was because Dreadnought was such a badass name that it got all the naval chiefs on each side too excited. Southern Heel posted:I'm pretty comfortable with underpainting as demonstrated by Night Shift/Plasmo for tonal variation on large panels (i.e. the sides of my little HMS Dreadnought) - but I'm not sure what colour to use. The instructions suggest Vallejo 70-994 which is a really dark grey - probably the 'real' colour used, but since colour lightens and desaturates with distance I figure it probably makes sense to paint the ship something much, much lighter. Should the colour be warm, cold or a fully desaturated grey for RN battleships? HMS Dreadnought would have been Admiralty Pattern 507 Dark Grey, which looked fairly close to this:  So if you wanted to get some scale effect going then once you've got a colour close to that add the tiniest drop of white. That's Sovereign Hobbies Colourcoats NARN03, but other options are available. Lifecolour do an acrylic equivalent, although their shade looks a little bit greener to my (admittedly colourblind) eyes. Sovereign do a really handy (but gigantic) reference sheet for RN colours over the last century.
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May 18, 2023 13:45
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I'm looking at repairing a small porcelain figure for someone which includes making a small piece that's missing from a broken leg. So I need to shape and sculpt that piece to some extend. Now I'm wondering what type of putty I should use for that? I assume some kind of epoxy putty would be apt but I'd rather get some info instead of buying something wrong. I think the putty should be sorta like blue tack in consistency so that it can be formed/sculpted comfortably before it cures. I only have expierence with basic grey putty from Tamiya and that one is way too liquid for the job.
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May 18, 2023 14:34
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Tin Tim posted:I'm looking at repairing a small porcelain figure for someone which includes making a small piece that's missing from a broken leg. So I need to shape and sculpt that piece to some extend. Now I'm wondering what type of putty I should use for that? I assume some kind of epoxy putty would be apt but I'd rather get some info instead of buying something wrong. I think the putty should be sorta like blue tack in consistency so that it can be formed/sculpted comfortably before it cures. I only have expierence with basic grey putty from Tamiya and that one is way too liquid for the job. Superfine white Milliput is probably what you need. It is specifically made for restoring porcelan. https://www.milliput.com/white.html
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May 18, 2023 14:41
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Skunkduster posted:Superfine white Milliput is probably what you need. It is specifically made for restoring porcelan. Seconded in that any good epoxy putty would be a good choice. ApoxieSculpt, Magic Sculpt, etc would be just fine.
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May 18, 2023 16:30
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What's the best sponges to use for chipping effects? Anything I can get at Hobby Lobby?
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May 18, 2023 20:52
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Charliegrs posted:What's the best sponges to use for chipping effects? Anything I can get at Hobby Lobby? Get a sponge from the grocery store. Even better, dollar store. Just tear a corner off.
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May 18, 2023 20:59
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Skunkduster posted:Superfine white Milliput is probably what you need. It is specifically made for restoring porcelan.
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May 18, 2023 21:47
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quote:Superfine White Milliput
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May 19, 2023 00:29
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Do I need to use superglue to attach things on top of acrylic paint? Or can I still use Tamiya extra thin without ruining everything? There are loads of parts that I need to attach after I fit in the decks on my ship…
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May 19, 2023 10:07
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Southern Heel posted:Do I need to use superglue to attach things on top of acrylic paint? Or can I still use Tamiya extra thin without ruining everything? Poly cements like Tamiya extra thin work by melting the plastic to bond it together so it tends to adhere very poorly over paint and make quite a mess. Superglue is the way to go. Just in case, if you're doing super tiny stuff, you can avoid overflow/excess by dabbing a drop of superglue out onto a palette or something disposable and use a pin/needle/piece of wire etc. to apply it
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May 19, 2023 10:18
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Southern Heel posted:Do I need to use superglue to attach things on top of acrylic paint? Or can I still use Tamiya extra thin without ruining everything? Tamiya Extra Thin will have a tendency to soak into/wick underneath acrylic paint and make it start wrinkling/bubbling up so it's not ideal. If you want to use it then the best way would be to scrape the paint off the mating surfaces first so you're gluing plastic to plastic. Superglue would be a better choice but bear in mind the bond is only going to be as strong as the paint's grip to the plastic (not strong) which would be fine for deck furniture but not so much for anything needing structural integrity. White/pva glue might be the best choice for attaching boxes and reels and non-structural things like that as you get more working time to position them, it probably won't rip up the paint if you have to move them, and you don't run the risk of 'blooming' on your paint from superglue fumes that way.
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May 19, 2023 10:21
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Thanks both! Last thing to glue onto the hull are the torpedo boom arms, and what a bloody pain in the arse they are: Needle thin with three gates on them each, and 13? to do each side without accidentally pinging one into the carpet or cutting through it
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May 19, 2023 15:15
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Lame. Plastic rod stock is at least an easy and quick replacement if something goes south. If I had some on hand, I'd use it instead of having to clean up 2x sprue gates per part.
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May 19, 2023 15:33
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Southern Heel posted:Thanks both! Last thing to glue onto the hull are the torpedo boom arms, and what a bloody pain in the arse they are: Run a strip of masking tape across the parts on the sprue before cutting them off and that should keep them from flying off.
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May 19, 2023 18:46
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Gewehr 43 posted:Lame. Plastic rod stock is at least an easy and quick replacement if something goes south. If I had some on hand, I'd use it instead of having to clean up 2x sprue gates per part. 2x sprue gates on the thinnest, flimsiest piece of plastic you'll ever work with. I'd rather fold 300 photo-etch crates.
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May 19, 2023 18:55
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You're all off by 50%. There are three gates per piece 
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May 19, 2023 18:58
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