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Unkempt posted:Stupid resin printing question: for some reason, I'm having immense difficulty printing something that's basically a cylinder. In chitubox, it looks like this: This is an inevitable part of the process of resin printing. If nobody else links it before I get home from work I can put in a YouTube video that gives a really great visual explanation. I will attempt it in words, but think of trying to hold up a tent with tentpoles. In between each pole the tent is going to sag. In this case the tentpoles are your supports, and the tent is the first few layers of cured resin facing towards the plate as it gets built. Once there are a few layers there is a solid foundation for new stuff to adhere to without warping, but the first few layers will be about as thick as a piece of hair meaning they're a little wibbly wobbly and flop around a bit in between supports. In most cases reorienting the parts that can be warped and flawed without causing issues so that they face towards the plate is a solution. More and more supports is another. I have sometimes also re-worked some models to include sacrificial extra parts that get built first, then trimmed off later leaving behind the part I care about to be built solidly and as smooth as the cut I make. Multiple solutions to the problem, even the one outlined above of putting it flat to the plate. Will leave a little bit of elephant's footing, but that can be trimmed off with a hobby knife pretty easily. Word of warning though if you're trimming/sanding printed resin, do that poo poo outside with a good respirator or wet sand them or something. Don't gently caress around with resin dust in the air.
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May 16, 2023 16:04
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All of the resin slicers nowadays also have parameters you can adjust to dial out elephant's foot. It can take a few tries to get it really tuned in, but it's pretty awesome when it's all working. Unless there's an obvious need to do otherwise (and to be fair, there frequently is), print stuff flat on the build plate if you can.
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May 16, 2023 16:24
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I love the print results I'm getting from my Bambu P1P, but holy poo poo the network connection is driving me crazy. The network adapter on the printer can only handle 2.4 GHz wireless networks, and it has trouble connecting if you use a dual-band automatic connection. So I split my wireless into two separate networks, just for this printer. It was able to connect, and everything was fine... ...until I turned it off for a day. Then it couldn't connect again and was giving me DHCP errors. I went into my router and forced a static IP for the printer's MAC address, and everything was fine... ...until I turned it off again. Now when it turns on it can see the network but won't grab an IP address. When I check the MAC address on the printer, it has the wrong one (it now starts with a 00: instead of what it originally had). Since the router doesn't recognize the different MAC address, it doesn't give it the static IP, and the printer is too dumb to get a dynamic one via DHCP. Before anyone asks, it also doesn't work with the MAC address starting with 00. I've now tried a factory reset on the printer, which fixed nothing but made me waste ~25 minutes while it recalibrated everything. Everything else about this printer is amazing, but the networking setup makes it feel like something designed circa 2005. I'm back to copying .gcode files to a SD card, so I can't watch the camera or status realtime. Has anyone else run into this? I've found some similar stories via Google searching, but I've tried most of the proposed solutions with no luck.
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May 16, 2023 17:01
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Changing MACs is pretty bizarre, that stuff is usually physically burned in to the adapter. Doubly so for low processor power objects that don't want to be dorking around with virtual NICs. I'd be curious why it changed.
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May 16, 2023 17:10
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WhiteHowler posted:
Can you not just leave the printer on? Mines been on 24/7 since I got it a few months ago. Just sitting idle it's not really using any power anyways.
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May 16, 2023 17:44
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mattfl posted:Can you not just leave the printer on? Mines been on 24/7 since I got it a few months ago. Just sitting idle it's not really using any power anyways. The first time, yes, the second time, no because I was moving it to a more sturdy table. Which I'll need to do again soon. Plus I live in an area where storms briefly knock out the power pretty often in the spring/summer. Just seems bizarre that a simple thing like connecting to wifi is giving me such problems.
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May 16, 2023 17:46
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I had to turn off the dual-band network meshing thing for my asus router too as it caused a lot of connection issues with my raspberry pi's specifically. The wireless connections are far more stable now too with a lot of clients connected.
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May 16, 2023 19:46
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Opinionated posted:I had to turn off the dual-band network meshing thing for my asus router too as it caused a lot of connection issues with my raspberry pi's specifically. The wireless connections are far more stable now too with a lot of clients connected. Yeah, I turned that off and it fixed it temporarily for the P1P, but now I can't get it to connect at all. Wireless connections seem like something that should be worked out by 2023. Edit: Got it to connect again for now. I did a factory reset on the printer and a reboot on my wireless router, and it picked up the static IP on the first try. My first generation Kindle doesn't have this much trouble getting on my wifi. WhiteHowler fucked around with this message at 00:42 on May 17, 2023 |
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May 16, 2023 21:32
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Feeling like I can see the Matrix code flowing upon realizing using my bbq gloves gives me the right combination of hand agility and heat protection to directly handle the hot end/etc. maintain stuff while it's at temp
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May 16, 2023 22:51
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I'm unmothballing my printer again. What's the consensus on using 0.6mm nozzles for 0.4mm kind of prints nowadays? IIRC the Arachne slicing engine in Prusa/Cura can do that just fine?
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May 17, 2023 19:13
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Combat Pretzel posted:I'm unmothballing my printer again. What's the consensus on using 0.6mm nozzles for 0.4mm kind of prints nowadays? IIRC the Arachne slicing engine in Prusa/Cura can do that just fine? Most of my printers are using 0.6mm and it's been great. Only thing I've noticed is that my prusa has issues on super fine text vs my bambu with the the 0.4mm nozzle. Otherwise it's amounted to faster prints,thicker layers for strength etc
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May 17, 2023 20:03
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My friend had a statue he made that fell off the wall and broke a couple years ago. I'd like to 3d print it for him. I have a handful of photos from random old cameras of it pre-broken. What is the easiest program to throw them into that will spit out a 3d object? All the ones I Google want to use my phone to take new photos with all the lidar info and whatnot. Then, what is the easiest program to touch it up in? I'm new to all of that and kinda want to use this to dip my toes into 3d modeling but like have a purpose.
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May 17, 2023 20:30
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You can't do photogrammetry with a handful of photos from different cameras. You need several dozen to hundreds of photos from the same camera taken in the same lighting and scene. Even then it's not a straightforward process. There is no way to just take some pictures and have the computer spit out a finished ready-to-print 3D model. "Touching up" a 3D scan is not an easy task so there is no program that can do it easily. Blender is your best bet, but there will be a steep learning curve. I would definitely not suggest working with 3D scans as a way to dip your toes into 3D modeling. Do the blender donut tutorial instead.
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May 17, 2023 20:35
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Well, phooey. Living in the future sucks. I think I have a video of it on some random hard drive. maybe I can strip the frames from that and use them if I find it. Oh well.
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May 17, 2023 20:47
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This is a five year old video about photogrammetry but you can see the process, photos every 10 degrees and then at three different heights. More is better: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M2VazVGm7TU You may need to recreate it wholesale with software to get what you're looking for which is going to be challenging.
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May 17, 2023 20:51
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Anyone else ever use their printer to aid breadmaking? Got a loaf rising on my bed at this moment because I keep my house cool. I swear it's unrelated to my bed needing cleaning the other day
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May 17, 2023 21:07
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I try to keep my food away from my melted plastics and resins.
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May 17, 2023 21:11
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Why not just leaven the dough in the oven? Putting on just the light will warm it gently (I tend to turn it off after an hour or so. ), or you can just heat it up for half a minute or so and then leave the dough in. Or just pour some hot water in a mug and leave it there.
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May 17, 2023 21:15
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Unperson_47 posted:Anyone else ever use their printer to aid breadmaking? Got a loaf rising on my bed at this moment because I keep my house cool. I do not do this, no. I have used the heated bed to gently warm the big jar with acetone in the bottom that I use for ABS smoothing, though. It seems like the safest way to do it when the sun isn't up.
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May 17, 2023 21:20
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Sagebrush posted:I have used the heated bed to gently warm the big jar with acetone in the bottom that I use for ABS smoothing, though. It seems like the safest way to do it when the sun isn't up. Ah drat, this is a good idea.
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May 17, 2023 21:22
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Josef Prusa i3 Master Chef by Josef Prusa https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vbe4_mAA__s
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May 17, 2023 21:33
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I just read an article that the unity engine introduced a new feature where ai will create a nice 3d model mesh from text prompts It's much more likely you will get the statue generated (eg "a statue in the style of Michelangelo except arms raised like rocky and huge genitals) and taking it as is or using blender to edit the model and exporting an srl then using several poor photos to donate 3d render ala CSI Although there probably is an so thing that will do it, and I know blender can generate a 3d model from 2d but that is to add depth not do exactly what is needed.
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May 18, 2023 00:23
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Whoa, check this out (not my print) It's this model https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5956601 and eSun PLA+ light brown, scaled up 125% and default fuzzy skin settings. Looks dope af
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May 18, 2023 02:29
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That looks amazing, and it just so happens I got 2 rolls of wood pla a few days ago 
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May 18, 2023 08:45
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What do people glue PLA together with? I see a product called loctite, epoxy, and a 3D pen all get brought up a lot. Is there a particular product or technique this thread has a consensus on? I actually have a 3D pen laying around somewhere I could hook up but from what I read it seems like the resulting bond is extremely brittle.
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May 18, 2023 20:47
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Neo Rasa posted:What do people glue PLA together with? I see a product called loctite, epoxy, and a 3D pen all get brought up a lot. Standard superglue.
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May 18, 2023 20:49
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What to use depends entirely on what you're attaching to what and how. If there's no rotational force, superglue will work great, though it'll likely leave some white residue. Epoxy is good sometimes, 3d gloop, 3d pens, it all depends on what exactly you're doing. But tbh just get some superglue. and build out your toolkit from there.
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May 18, 2023 20:55
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Neo Rasa posted:What do people glue PLA together with? I see a product called loctite, epoxy, and a 3D pen all get brought up a lot. Loctite is a brand that makes a number of adhesives. Probably when people say that in the context of gluing 3d prints they mean their gel super glue.
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May 18, 2023 21:01
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I use clear Gorilla Glue - the polyurethane, not the CA - for large surface area bonds, and Starbond's CA glues (they have thin, regular, and thick formulas as well as an accelerator) for smaller/quicker stuff.
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May 18, 2023 21:47
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Weld-on IPS-16 for when you want the two pieces of PLA to stick together within seconds, and never come apart again without breaking after a little while. Stuff you can buy at a hardware store: - Gel superglue for general gluing pieces together - E-6000 for more serious gap-filling ability / tough joints that is not too bad for cleanup or wiping excess if you have an oopsie - Gorilla Glue (the expanding polyurethane stuff) if you don't mind clamping and waiting, need gap filling, don't care much if any leaks a little/ugly, and you never ever need it to come apart again
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May 18, 2023 22:09
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My Ender 3 struggles continue. I have default cura settings at 0.2 layer height but with 70% infill. My first layer looks good, then my second looks like absolute hell. I've calibrated the E-steps, did a PID autotune, swapped out nozzles, and wrestled with overextruding until I finally had to drop it down to 70% to have even partway decent prints. The same roll of filament was fine at 100% before I replaced my hot end, so I have no idea. 
Floppychop fucked around with this message at 22:44 on May 18, 2023 |
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May 18, 2023 22:37
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Floppychop posted:The same roll of filament was fine at 100% before I replaced my hot end, so I have no idea. Bu default cura does the first layer much slower than other layers. maybe something went wrong with the hotend install and you are having flow rate issues? That would match up with the weirdness you are experiencing, but you should do a flow rate test to be sure.
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May 18, 2023 22:48
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My son wants me to make him a ball. He's going to decorate it with his 3d pen. I'm assuming it's going to get thrown around a bit. What infill style and percent should I use with petg? Edit. Also I guess what walls and top and bottom thickness? RodShaft fucked around with this message at 00:43 on May 19, 2023 |
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May 19, 2023 00:39
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PETG is tough in a lot of ways, but it likes to shatter when it hits a hard surface so maybe consider ABS or some such
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May 19, 2023 01:48
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Would TPU be an option, so it deforms instead of shattering?
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May 19, 2023 01:50
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RodShaft posted:My son wants me to make him a ball. He's going to decorate it with his 3d pen. I'm assuming it's going to get thrown around a bit. What infill style and percent should I use with petg? i'd start with like 3-4 walls and maybe 6 top and bottom layers, 15% infill, and it'll be pretty tough but yeah if the kid's going to throw it around it's going to break eventually. i wonder how well TPU runs in a 3D pen? cause i second the idea above
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May 19, 2023 04:42
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Sagebrush posted:i wonder how well TPU runs in a 3D pen? cause i second the idea above oh and you would *need* to run TPU in the pen as well, cause PLA doesn't stick to TPU.
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May 19, 2023 13:46
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anycubic 12k resin printer that doesnt require levelling. Theyre claiming some stupid fast print speeds that I dont know about... Using a new ASL film instead of a fep which seems like a solid upgrade, but the claim of 150mm of print height in an hour feels like marketting dogshit. Used a high speed resin they made, so maybe thats the trade-off and theyre using some garbage 1sec per layer brittle stuff video shows 814 layers in 45 minutes, which is true is night and day vs pretty much anything else out there https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RstxtGOGKqE Edit: found it, theyre marketting material is printing at 0.1mm layer heights. Math might still be there between the fep/resin to be an upgrade, but Id be curious if you could get the same numbers elsewhere w00tmonger fucked around with this message at 15:28 on May 19, 2023 |
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May 19, 2023 15:25
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Unless you are running a shop I don't think print speed really matters. I can print faster than I can paint with my Saturn 2. Especially if you run something before going to bed. At that point who cares if it is 2 hours or 8 hours. Would be interested to know how their slicer is. Seems like the printer might have some built in quality of life stuff.
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May 19, 2023 15:40
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IncredibleIgloo posted:run something before going to bed. wtf
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