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Bondematt posted:Yeah Klipper documentation has a lot of holes all around. They really should just put a big ol' banner with, "You want the Fluidd or Mainsail guides", on that page. This problem is... broader. You're not wrong with "you want the fluid or mainsail guides" suggestion. Klipper is the deep underlying software. You don't... use.. that. So part of the problem is naming, as the names is bad. I was helping a buddy with klipper. But it wasn't klipper. It was Octoprint talkign to clipper. Which is evidently how a lot of people try klipper? ...Octoprint is a less than ideal printing experience (at least mine was) and having someone come to me for a klipper problem when it was a "why the heck are you using octoprint with this" was mind bending. I feel like the most concise guide for Klipper, is the one for Voron. I'm not sure I"d have been convinced to do it if it wasn't for that community and it's support. But it's not just naming, and bad start points. Klipper keeps being talked about like it's "a" thing to print with. And that really seems to miss how it's a gigantic toolbox, with more options than gzip, and nearly as much functionality as EMACS. A couple times a week I get questions where the root of the question is back to compatibility options rather than performance. They also don't give you a functional set of basic tools. There should be a recomended set of scripts, that work well. AT this time, they seem to expect you to make your own, or crib them from other people. THat's.. not a formula for good user experience. Projects often start as a narrow thing. When they broaden out and add features, things get... messy. Then, if we're lucky, they clean up the docs to match. ................ Here's hoping someone can reel in the docs. <--- guy who runs klipper on his machines.
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# ? May 26, 2023 17:58 |
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# ? May 30, 2024 03:03 |
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Hey! Remember that giant nasty meltdown my printer had? I've had to do some digging around, but I finally found the culprit of the power-up failure - there's a little custom board used to act as a go-between for external and internal connectors for the controller, and it had a little 12V trace that overloaded and burned off the PCB like a fuse. A little solder jumper between the correct supply pin and the connector it goes to, and we're up and running again. Here's the next few questions going forward: The big one for me is about E3D - this used the Chimera hot end. I think it's been discontinued - E3D has it in this "Discontinued 2021 Sales" Page (https://e3d-online.com/collections/discontinued-products-21?page=1) But it isn't officially listed as discontinued anywhere, which is weird. Can I assume this thing is no longer around? The fortunate news is that I have about 80% of the parts needed to fix the hotend - I'm missing the nozzles, but I have most of a kit from the LAST time this stupid thing shat the bed. Who knows after this though. The other thing is - they made a "Pro" version of this printer about a year ago, upgrading it to a 32bit processor. GCreate's data dump they've left up seems to show they were using a BigTreeTech SKR3 (https://biqu.equipment/collections/control-board/products/bigtreetech-btt-skr-3-control-board-for-3d-printer) I like the idea of this because it at least means I have some pre-made firmware so I'm not having to go and figure out every goddamn thing about this as if I'm starting form scratch. Is it decent? a known thing? My hesitation on all of this is I know given enough time, I can fix this, but how many hours is management going to let me burn? And if this becomes the Printer-of-Theseus, it means a person with specialized knowledge will always have to be here to keep it running. Is that worth it? That's a discussion for my boss.
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# ? May 26, 2023 17:59 |
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Nerobro posted:They also don't give you a functional set of basic tools. There should be a recomended set of scripts, that work well. AT this time, they seem to expect you to make your own, or crib them from other people. THat's.. not a formula for good user experience. Oh God yeah. My inject lower acceleration for first layer only, code was taken from someone's run code at layer script that was horribly broken(out of date I think) So I fixed it specific to my use case but it's just a mash of bad syntax and naming conventions. Hell I ever had to fix the probe before print one as it errors out on small objects now. Probe min/max too small a difference? Then just probe slightly bigger?!
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# ? May 26, 2023 18:16 |
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Fanged Lawn Wormy posted:The big one for me is about E3D - this used the Chimera hot end. I think it's been discontinued - E3D has it in this "Discontinued 2021 Sales" Page (https://e3d-online.com/collections/discontinued-products-21?page=1) But it isn't officially listed as discontinued anywhere, which is weird. Can I assume this thing is no longer around? Yes. It looks like the lower parts are just a pair of standard v6 hot ends though (heat break, heat block, etc etc) quote:The other thing is - they made a "Pro" version of this printer about a year ago, upgrading it to a 32bit processor. GCreate's data dump they've left up seems to show they were using a BigTreeTech SKR3 (https://biqu.equipment/collections/control-board/products/bigtreetech-btt-skr-3-control-board-for-3d-printer) I like the idea of this because it at least means I have some pre-made firmware so I'm not having to go and figure out every goddamn thing about this as if I'm starting form scratch. Is it decent? a known thing? If you find their custom marlin config you'd be good to go on a lot of different boards. The wacko thing about that printer is all the custom daughterboards (like the one that burned a trace) for the extremely common but extremely ancient mega+ramps combo. Having a prebuilt marlin image would work if you could find a wiring diagram, probably. Having a prebuilt firmware with no idea how to wire it up would be pretty challenging. e: oh, and who knows if they had new, different daughterboards for their more advanced printer - it's quite possible it would be easier to throw out all their custom crap, rip out the chimera for a normal v6 and do a clean marlin config with minimal wiring mewse fucked around with this message at 18:25 on May 26, 2023 |
# ? May 26, 2023 18:22 |
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mewse posted:Yes. It looks like the lower parts are just a pair of standard v6 hot ends though (heat break, heat block, etc etc) There are a couple interconnect daughter boards thru the build, but nothing that special. And fortunately, they've provided wiring diagrams for several different iterations of the design, and copies of the marlin firmware. I think when they moved to the SKR3 board, they kept all other parts pretty much the same, only changing some of the connectors that go to the controller. The other good news, at least for me, is that I've designed PCBs, so if it became an issue while I'm here, I could get it fixed pretty easy.
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# ? May 26, 2023 18:31 |
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Fanged Lawn Wormy posted:I think when they moved to the SKR3 board, they kept all other parts pretty much the same, only changing some of the connectors that go to the controller. The other good news, at least for me, is that I've designed PCBs, so if it became an issue while I'm here, I could get it fixed pretty easy. If you can crimp JST and read pin-out diagrams you should be golden
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# ? May 26, 2023 18:34 |
Spent an entire evening wiring up an accelerometer to my raspberry pi running klipper for that sweet sweet resonance compensation, only for the values to end up 2> of what I measured manually. Was a fun little project tho!
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# ? May 26, 2023 21:19 |
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Prusa shipping update: - Single-tool semi-assembled XLs ship end of May (fully assembled has already started), full production begins mid-June - XL dual-tool: Shipping begins mid-June - XL five-tools: Shipping begins mid-July Some stuff in there about MK4 and MMU3 as well but I have ordered / waiting for neither so
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# ? May 26, 2023 22:54 |
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I ordered an X1-C with AMS today. Thoughts and prayers for my safety when my wife sees it arrive.
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# ? May 26, 2023 23:00 |
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AlexDeGruven posted:I ordered an X1-C with AMS today. Thoughts and prayers for my safety when my wife sees it arrive. edit - that's literally just in local word-of-mouth-fellow-nerd sales, I haven't even put anything up on my meager little Etsy store yet. Acid Reflux fucked around with this message at 00:14 on May 27, 2023 |
# ? May 26, 2023 23:54 |
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Nerobro posted:This problem is... broader. You're not wrong with "you want the fluid or mainsail guides" suggestion. Klipper is the deep underlying software. You don't... use.. that. So part of the problem is naming, as the names is bad. And like on one hand, I get it. Klipper is the core and the rest of this stuff technically isn't klipper. But also klipper on it's own isn't a complete solution so they should at least mention some of the other components you need to get it working.
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# ? May 27, 2023 00:36 |
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Acid Reflux posted:I've got your back, dude. If there's any backlash, I'll happily share pictures of the really really really dumb multicolor Star Wars stuff that's almost made back my entire P1P/AMS purchase price inside of 3 weeks. I'd like to see this dumb Star Wars stuff
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# ? May 27, 2023 01:22 |
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Listerine posted:I'd like to see this dumb Star Wars stuff Same! Especially since my X1C and AMS also just arrived.
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# ? May 27, 2023 01:28 |
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Pretty sure this is a slicer setting issue, since it only started happening once my computer crashed and I had to reinstall Cura: There's some kind of pre-existing issue with my Ender 3 with Marlin where it trips an E1 error if it tries heating the bed and nozzle at the same time (is fine maintaining both during printing, this just in the warm-up phase). I've been working around it for a year or so by just heating the nozzle up first, then the bed, then starting the print. I'm haven't really been fussed about fixing it I'm the kind of user where printer is a means to an end, not something I enjoy tinkering with for its own sake. (I know, don't buy an Ender next time.) Anyways. It's now having an issue where the nozzle temp is dropping between when I tell it start the print and it actually starting - generally by 20 or so degrees C, which triggers it warming up, which triggers the E1 error. This never happened before, it would hold rock solid at 240C for my ABS and get right into it when I started. Any thoughts on what I could try? PS thanks to whomever suggested the experimental setting for dealing with scaling, that worked a treat.
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# ? May 27, 2023 02:38 |
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Listerine posted:I'd like to see this dumb Star Wars stuff Also also same. And links if you can share them. I'm always down to monetize.
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# ? May 27, 2023 03:32 |
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Would also like to see these things.
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# ? May 27, 2023 04:06 |
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Anyone have any recommended sites for buying spare parts that also has good/fast shipping to the US? I need to replace the screen on a Mono X and Anycubic is out of stock.
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# ? May 27, 2023 05:01 |
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It's dumb to upgrade my MK3S from 2020 to a hot new x1c..... right?
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# ? May 27, 2023 10:22 |
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Mr Newsman posted:It's dumb to upgrade my MK3S from 2020 to a hot new x1c..... right? No, join us!
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# ? May 27, 2023 11:04 |
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Ethics_Gradient posted:Any thoughts on what I could try? Edit: also I'd suggest heating the bed before the nozzle just as a general practice, as it reduces filament leaking out and dirtying up the nozzle during prep. BadMedic fucked around with this message at 13:11 on May 27, 2023 |
# ? May 27, 2023 13:09 |
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Here's one example of the type of "wall control panels" I've been selling locally with unusually great success. The colors are all wrong because this was just my first test print with what was loaded up in the AMS at the time, but you get the idea. In hindsight, I guess I don't want to share pics of the *exact* items I've been selling, because I've made some unique changes that have turned out to be unusually popular and I am hoping to expand into some online sales... but there are a fair number of models like that one, though, which are freely available on Thingiverse and don't have any restrictions on commercial use. I've also got one that I designed myself and am currently working on some new stuff too. My particular local market is probably going to dry up pretty soon, because of course there are finite people in the immediate area who are interested in this stuff... but very much to my surprise, at $35 each I'm just a couple of sales away from the $1000 mark in a very short 3 week period. Most people have bought at least two, and a couple of people have bought an entire set (which is currently five different designs). I can print most of them inside of three hours each, and since Mrs. Reflux is home most days she's able to keep production running even when I'm at work. It's been a shockingly lucrative few weeks.
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# ? May 27, 2023 13:23 |
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What does it do?
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# ? May 27, 2023 13:45 |
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thats the beauty of it it doesnt do anything
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# ? May 27, 2023 13:54 |
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Lmfao I thought it was for some electronics project kit.
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# ? May 27, 2023 13:56 |
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Sexual Lorax posted:thats the beauty of it Yup, it's just a static prop. Stick it on the wall and you're done. Some of what I've been working on is making these a little more visually interesting by adding a few blinkenlights and whatnot, but even the plain prints have been quite popular.
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# ? May 27, 2023 14:21 |
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LMAO I print stuff on the Ender-3 Pro via a USB cable to my computer. When I run a game on Steam the Ender-3 Pro pauses printing, why is that? It's ONLY when I run a game on Steam, like I can have some crazy complex stuff loaded up in Illustrator while switching between playing Doom Eternal and having Waveform like audio production stuff going/etc. whatever other game running all at the same time without any issue but if I run any game through Steam specifically even if it's the only thing I'm running it causes the Ender-3 Pro to pause printing. It doesn't STOP printing, the nozzle stays heated and in place. Then as soon as I exit the game it resumes. Not a particularly serious issue but like, how does that happen
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# ? May 27, 2023 18:19 |
Probably something with Steam’s controller support stuff.
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# ? May 27, 2023 18:35 |
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Mr Newsman posted:It's dumb to upgrade my MK3S from 2020 to a hot new x1c..... right? I’m pondering the exact same…
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# ? May 27, 2023 20:12 |
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Got shipping labels already for my combo and 0.6 assembly. Might make it here some time next week. Just in time for me to head down to work in Detroit all week 😭
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# ? May 27, 2023 20:25 |
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Mr Newsman posted:It's dumb to upgrade my MK3S from 2020 to a hot new x1c..... right?
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# ? May 27, 2023 22:12 |
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Any guidance on PLA bridging that doesn't look like poo poo with a 0.8mm Volcano? I have done my first layer squish, temperature, and extrusion multiple calibration. Is it just the volume of hot PLA resisting cooling?
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# ? May 28, 2023 19:44 |
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I sent a print to my Ender 3v2 from Octoprint and it just shut off and has not turned back on. What trouble shooting steps should I try? I'm not sure how to tell if it's a power supply issue vs a motherboard issue
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# ? May 29, 2023 00:07 |
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w00tmonger posted:The cooling on the x axis might be a gimick, but it's definitely cool SV07 reviews seem to indicate that it actually does help quite a bit for high-speed PLA printing.
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# ? May 29, 2023 05:28 |
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BadMedic posted:This might be a failing power supply? As they get older, the wattage a power supply can provide slowly drops. If it was iffy to start with, it could be that the PS just can't provide enough power to keep the hot end hot. But PS issues are notoriously hard to diagnose without just buying a new one and swapping it out. Haha, that's how I had to diagnose a bad PSU in my desktop (computer kept rebooting under load, tried all kinds of diagnostics with RAM, GPU, processor, etc and that was the only thing left, which fixed it). I really don't want to drop another AU$90 on this thing when I've only got a month and a half left with it. I used to do that (heat bed before nozzle) but it seemed to make the error happen more so I switched to nozzle + bed. Anyways, I've tried re-slicing at a lower temp and still no luck. I did bed heating, then nozzle, and watched it again closely and the printer moves the nozzle to the front left corner like it's going to home Z, then I see the set temp drop from 240 to 175 (???). The printer seems to want to wait for the nozzle temp to get down to that, but after it loses 10-20 degrees the set temp flicks back to 240 and then the printer goes "welp better warm that nozzle back up" and a few seconds later the E1 issue follows. It's definitely a slicer setting somewhere, because I tried one of my old files on the SD from before the crash and it worked fine Ethics_Gradient fucked around with this message at 10:03 on May 29, 2023 |
# ? May 29, 2023 10:00 |
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Ethics_Gradient posted:It's definitely a slicer setting somewhere, because I tried one of my old files on the SD from before the crash and it worked fine
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# ? May 29, 2023 10:17 |
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Len posted:I sent a print to my Ender 3v2 from Octoprint and it just shut off and has not turned back on. What trouble shooting steps should I try? I'm not sure how to tell if it's a power supply issue vs a motherboard issue I left everything unplugged over night and this thing still doesn't power on. I checked the fuse by the power switch and and the 15 amp on the main board and both look fine. Not sure where to go from here
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# ? May 29, 2023 13:31 |
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Ugh, every so often my printer will start to do this annoying thing where it does an automatic levelling, then just starts dragging the nozzle across one half of the bed anyways. Last time I fixed it by tightening/recalibrating everything, but it would be nice to know exactly what's causing it :/
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# ? May 29, 2023 14:58 |
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Yeah I loosened/tightened all the v-rollers again and that seems to have fixed it for now? Actually that leads me into another question: Is there a good guide to calibrating all the parts of a bed-slinger in general? Like making sure the frame is square and the gantry is level etc. Edit: ugh, damnit. Tightening the bed rollers has exposed a flat spot in them, *and* the extruder is slipping now so time to figure out WTF is going on there BadMedic fucked around with this message at 16:39 on May 29, 2023 |
# ? May 29, 2023 16:13 |
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Len posted:I left everything unplugged over night and this thing still doesn't power on. I checked the fuse by the power switch and and the 15 amp on the main board and both look fine. Not sure where to go from here It’s likely 1 of: Dead main board Dead power supply Short somewhere trips overcurrent protection. Does the power supply fan spin up when you turn it on? Can you disconnect everything from the power supply and see if it will spin up then? Do you own a multimeter?
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# ? May 29, 2023 18:32 |
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# ? May 30, 2024 03:03 |
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OK google is totally failing me on this How the hell do I remove the heatbreak from the heater block? I try to unscrew it but it's just not working.
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# ? May 29, 2023 18:47 |