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The Dave posted:Someone’s never cheated during a professional wrestling match. Do what you want with the turnbuckles just don't turn heel!
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Jun 20, 2023 17:54
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Mirror all the way off, wall fully exposed. Two hidden outlets discovered It looks like poo poo. People in the past were morons.
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Jun 20, 2023 19:13
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Eh, you could use mirror clips, I suppose, but most mirrors of that size are glued in place like that. Have fun scraping, skimming, and sanding all of that. If it were me, I'd do the drywall over top method.
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Jun 20, 2023 19:23
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mutata posted:Eh, you could use mirror clips, I suppose, but most mirrors of that size are glued in place like that. Have fun scraping, skimming, and sanding all of that. If it were me, I'd do the drywall over top method. Presumably you’d have to scrape either way, since you need the new drywall to lie flat on top of the old drywall
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Jun 20, 2023 19:31
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I probably wouldn't. Depends on how thick that poo poo protrudes out. I'm a disgusting loser PO, though.
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Jun 20, 2023 19:35
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mutata posted:I probably wouldn't. Depends on how thick that poo poo protrudes out. I'm a disgusting loser PO, though. The big blobs are over a quarter of an inch thick. Also, I have a scraper, a spreader, and a power sander and I’ve scraped, spread, and sanded stuff before. I don’t have a vehicle that can transport drywall and I’ve never cut or hung drywall.
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Jun 20, 2023 19:49
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I’d rather rent a Home Depot truck for $20 and learn to hang drywall than deal with repairing that wall.
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Jun 20, 2023 20:02
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I'd rather hulk-smash all of the old drywall out and hand an actual drywall guy money to solve the remaining problem.
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Jun 20, 2023 20:17
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Or panel it with something. No matter what you do, it’ll look like poo poo if you don’t pull the baseboard & base shoe. The quickest, easiest thing to do is slam up a sheet of 3/8” drywall. if the glue dots are standing up that high, you could chip them off, but you could probably install the sheet straight over what’s there. You’re talking about maybe coming into the room a half-inch. They make box shims for such work, so you would ‘t have to do anything to the receptacles except detach them from the current box, and re-attach them in front of the shims. I get it; you haven’t done anything like this before - but this is an ideal drywall project to start with, and once you’re done, you’ll worries will be gone.
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Jun 20, 2023 21:35
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Don't bother scraping that poo poo that sticks out. What you need to do is get a sheet of 15/64" drywall, put it up over top of that, and in the high spots, just dig out the back of the 15/64 sheet so that they (the high spots) fit in the back of the sheet. There you have it, no demo, no scraping,no sanding down any high spots.
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Jun 20, 2023 22:04
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Personally, I'm confident that I know exactly enough to get myself in some real trouble one day.
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Jun 21, 2023 04:34
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I finally have the money to replace my last ancient appliance, an old drop in Whirlpool range from 1984. Everything I read about says this will probably be a nightmare to replace, as it is attached in the weird old drop in style. I'm not planning on replacing the cabinets any time soon as that is a bigger project than I am looking for and the cabinets are much newer. I'd prefer to replace this with a modern slide in, has anyone done this before? Is it worth doing without new cabinets?
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Jun 21, 2023 07:29
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https://imgur.com/a/VL32GZY Any advice what would be needed to remove the grey post propping up the ridge of this dormer? House is 120 years old and I'd like to get easier access to this little dormer to lay plywood down and store junk.
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Jun 21, 2023 12:03
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GamerMage posted:https://imgur.com/a/VL32GZY Looks like you need a structural engineer.
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Jun 21, 2023 14:37
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Rakeris posted:Looks like you need a structural engineer.
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Jun 21, 2023 14:41
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It's extremely old and non-standard construction, so it would be irresponsible for anyone to give you internet advice based on a few photos.
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Jun 21, 2023 15:01
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Motronic posted:That's always going to happen with anything attached to drywall with construction adhesive. Just put a sheet of 1/8" sheetrock over top and mud it in. Slugworth posted:Good call, resale value is gonna tank if you lose 1/4" of space. PainterofCrap posted:The quickest, easiest thing to do is slam up a sheet of 3/8” drywall. if the glue dots are standing up that high, you could chip them off, but you could probably install the sheet straight over what’s there. You’re talking about maybe coming into the room a half-inch. They make box shims for such work, so you would ‘t have to do anything to the receptacles except detach them from the current box, and re-attach them in front of the shims. I would just like to point out. Over the course of this discussion the addition you guys have been wanting me to put on the wall has gone from 1/8th of an inch to 1/4 of an inch to 3/8th of an inch to 3/8th of an inch suspended half an inch away from the original wall. I am not a fool. I see what's going on here. You people are trying to crush me.
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Jun 21, 2023 15:06
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GamerMage posted:https://imgur.com/a/VL32GZY Although that post has been doing fine for the past 75-years or so, the dormer roof load is actually carried by the two joists that meet above it. Typically, the main roof joists on either side would be doubled up, and the dormer joists attached to them. That post is supporting a load tied to the ridgeboard, which really isn’t load-bearing- it’s purpose is to keep the joists aligned, while the load is translated down through each joist to the floor joists, the top plate (i.e. the top of the exterior wall framing) and/or the main roof joists. You can install a couple of new posts along the sloping dormer outer joists on both sides, and then remove that post. You could try to tie a couple framing members across at least two of the main roof joists on either side of the dormer, and create a header to carry the load. Or you could leave it be. In any event, there is no way to just remove all obstructions to the dormer. Something has to help translate its load down to the main structure. (edit) you could remove it long enough to drop plywood flooring in. It won’t suddenly collapse…but if you leave it out, it’ll eventually (in weeks/months) start to sag. Motronic posted:It's extremely old and non-standard construction, so it would be irresponsible for anyone to give you internet advice based on a few photos.  Gripweed posted:I would just like to point out. Over the course of this discussion the addition you guys have been wanting me to put on the wall has gone from 1/8th of an inch to 1/4 of an inch to 3/8th of an inch to 3/8th of an inch suspended half an inch away from the original wall. I am not a fool. I see what's going on here. You people are trying to crush me. For the love of god, Montresor! PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 15:13 on Jun 21, 2023 |
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Jun 21, 2023 15:06
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Gripweed posted:I would just like to point out. Over the course of this discussion the addition you guys have been wanting me to put on the wall has gone from 1/8th of an inch to 1/4 of an inch to 3/8th of an inch to 3/8th of an inch suspended half an inch away from the original wall. I am not a fool. I see what's going on here. You people are trying to crush me. I would have just painted over the mirrors.
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Jun 21, 2023 18:26
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Gripweed posted:I would just like to point out. Over the course of this discussion the addition you guys have been wanting me to put on the wall has gone from 1/8th of an inch to 1/4 of an inch to 3/8th of an inch to 3/8th of an inch suspended half an inch away from the original wall. I am not a fool. I see what's going on here. You people are trying to crush me. rip gripweed, buried alive in drywall
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Jun 21, 2023 18:32
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The trick to covering the scarred-up wall is to affix over it a plate of something rigid that won't pick up any irregularity from the underlying surface. E.g. a large pane of glass. Will probably want the reflective kind so you can't see through it to the wall behind.
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Jun 21, 2023 18:55
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Does anyone happen to know the threading on the screws for an Ikea ÖSARP leg (used on a BESTA TV stand)? I'm specifically looking at the screw on the adjustable foot portion. My floor is warped enough that extending the foot to its maximum doesn't level the TV stand, nor does it reach the floor on one side. I'm looking for a solution that doesn't involve jamming 15 shims under it. https://ingka.page.link/x7kGyPGMQNEh22pH8
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Jun 21, 2023 19:09
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Bring it to a hardware store and try to screw it into the bolt sizer until it matches?
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Jun 21, 2023 19:41
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Some googling suggests bog standard M8.
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Jun 21, 2023 19:45
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when my AC goes on, there's been a more pronounced, quick buzz noise. i only hear it right when it goes on, i.e. a fraction of a second. no other weird noises when it's on or off. The AC is only a few years old - could this be related to all the hot weather we are having (somehow)? otherwise is this something i need to look into?
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Jun 22, 2023 03:37
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actionjackson posted:when my AC goes on, there's been a more pronounced, quick buzz noise. i only hear it right when it goes on, i.e. a fraction of a second. no other weird noises when it's on or off. The AC is only a few years old - could this be related to all the hot weather we are having (somehow)? otherwise is this something i need to look into? Starting capacitor is going bad. No worries, cheap part and an easy fix. Match the numbers and terminals. One set of terminals is for your fan and another for your compressor. MFD = microfarads, VAC = volts AC (should be 120/240 for residential ac unit) Brand/type should be irrelevent. Pull the disconnect/trip the breaker (or both) for your outdoor unit, pull the shell off and find the old one. If its bulbous ("pregnant" as its called) then that means its time to replace. https://www.amazon.com/MAXRUN-Round...87403498&sr=8-1 Cosmik Debris fucked around with this message at 04:16 on Jun 22, 2023 |
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Jun 22, 2023 04:13
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Cosmik Debris posted:Starting capacitor is going bad. thanks, one thing though is i hear the noise coming from where the AC/furnace control panel on the wall is, not from the unit in the closet, or the condensor. the breaker is right on the other side of the wall though. could it be an issue with the breaker box instead? actionjackson fucked around with this message at 04:48 on Jun 22, 2023 |
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Jun 22, 2023 04:38
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here is a video of that noise. honestly it's not very loud at all, you have to turn up the volume all the way on this to hear it. it's immediately after the click https://i.imgur.com/IitQvXr.mp4
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Jun 22, 2023 17:11
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Judgy Fucker posted:no one at Lowe’s had a clue what it was: Jesus Christ. I weep. They're on the same aisle as chain and cable, along with "S" hooks, etc. Gripweed posted:Two hidden outlets discovered LOL. IOwnCalculus posted:I'd rather hulk-smash all of the old drywall out and hand an actual drywall guy money to solve the remaining problem. This has some validity. I'd *love* to pay someone to do mine for me. Entire living room really needs to be replaced due to cracks from previous settling. Danhenge posted:Personally, I'm confident that I know exactly enough to get myself in some real trouble one day. I've proved that to myself several times.
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Jun 22, 2023 19:56
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My range hood is acting up, and I need an idea if I need to replace the motor, or if there's a simpler repair. It has an analog power dial, low power for quiet, high for hurricane, and all the steps in-between. As of a few days ago, half the power settings on the lower end just don't work. The fan will only spin past 50% power. The reason I'm thinking the motor is hosed, is that dropping the power down slightly after its started spinning causes it to cut off, so it's not starting friction that's the issue, in my view. I can hear the motor/switch click at certain steps as I dial up the power, but it's probably always done that and I'm only hearing it now because it's not blowing. I presume those are actually the different power levels engaging. Anyone had similar that was fixed with some wd40 in the right spot? Or am I right in assuming I need a new motor? (I kinda don't want to experimentally spray wd40 over my food preparation and open flame area of the kitchen...)
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Jun 23, 2023 03:34
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I'm repainting my (rented) apartment. I give exactly zero fucks about doing a good job, it's very much a "landlord special" maintained place, but I dont want to make life any harder for myself than I need to. I'll be painting over landlord beige. If I'm buying paint at Home Depot, which paint should I buy that is high quality and full enough of pigment to make it easy for me?
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Jun 23, 2023 14:31
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what do you mean by make it easy?
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Jun 23, 2023 15:54
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Goes on well. Doesnt need 8 million coats. Is a general high quality paint
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Jun 23, 2023 16:33
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Depot has positioned the Behr line as their premium brand and prices have gone up to match that. The Glidden lines in my opinion are more bang for the buck if you're set on buying at HD. Glidden Premium is a good quality for its price point, but a few extra bucks per gallon on paint is always well spent if you're putting it on yourself, so check out the Glidden Diamond.
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Jun 23, 2023 18:23
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Paint in general is a "you get what you pay for" situation. Cheap paint sucks.
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Jun 23, 2023 19:38
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Paint in general is a "you get what you pay for" situation. Cheap paint sucks. "You get what you pay for" can mean that you have to pay more to get better quality stuff, but that doesn't stop some of the expensive stuff from still being bad if you don't know which to pick, you know? I feel like that's usually where it is easiest to go wrong as an uninformed consumer of whatever the product is.
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Jun 23, 2023 19:57
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benjamin moore ben crew
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Jun 23, 2023 20:53
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Happiness Commando posted:Goes on well. Doesnt need 8 million coats. Is a general high quality paint Buy the heaviest can. The more solids, the more complete coating PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 22:37 on Jun 23, 2023 |
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Jun 23, 2023 22:27
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IOwnCalculus posted:I'd rather hulk-smash all of the old drywall out and hand an actual drywall guy money to solve the remaining problem. Non starter. There are no more drywall guys. Anywhere. I suspect covid.
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Jun 23, 2023 22:57
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PainterofCrap posted:Buy the heaviest can. The more solids, the more complete coating :paints living room with block filler: If you prefer thick paint, then Behr is actually a solid choice, but many pros I know dislike it for that exact reason. It drags, doesn't spread easily, and is just a workout to roll. Definitely a personal preference or what you're used to thing and lots of folks like that kind of application. Edit- there's a lot of nuance to volume/weight solids as it relates to quality. Type of solids, resins, pigments, etc. Cheap rear end builder flats use lots of clay and are heavy and high solids but total poo poo for anything but making a wall builder beige to sell houses. Final Blog Entry fucked around with this message at 23:18 on Jun 23, 2023 |
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Jun 23, 2023 23:12
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