|
Skunkduster posted:Using a Neptune 2. Been having a lot of problems with the prints peeling up from the bed. It doesn't seem to be an adhesion problem because the first 10-15 layers work fine. From that pic, it sure looks like an adhesion problem, especially from how the skirt came apart - if your first layer is sticking well, it won’t do that. Clean your bed with isopropyl, level your bed, tune that Z adjust and see if your problems persist.
|
#
?
Jul 7, 2023 20:53
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 29, 2024 22:55 |
|
|
Add "mouse ears"
|
|
#
?
Jul 7, 2023 21:01
|
|
|
Clean with soap and water. And scrub it with a yellow scrub pad But, after you rinse, watch how the water beads up. If it lays like a sheet then it's not clean, the water should actively hate the pei sheet and sheep right off. I soap it up and scrub again until it's doing that. The alcohol is fine for between print wipes but after this clean, and dry. If you don't touch the bed, you should be good to print. IPA just pushes the oil around, soap and water actually remove the crap This little bit of info changes my adhesion when I was 'bur I washed it, why is it not working? '
|
|
#
?
Jul 7, 2023 21:12
|
|
|
I don't know about the rest of you, but I don't find that PLA has particularly great adhesion on textured PEI. That also seems like a potential bed heat issue, as PLA shouldn't really warp *that* badly. It can, but only in pretty weird circumstances.
|
|
#
?
Jul 7, 2023 21:18
|
|
|
Also PLA likes cooling, like, the second it leaves the nozzle and sticks. Crank that fan up if you can. Enclosure? open it. You can lower the bed temps because its uneven cooling from the cooler top vs the constantly warm bottom. There is always tuning your squish too, texture wants a tad more. And its been mentioned here before, glue is awesome. Just slather some on. Make your stuff stick, why play with the few degrees of heat / cold when you can use mechanical means to do so
|
|
#
?
Jul 7, 2023 21:23
|
|
|
Hypnolobster posted:I don't know about the rest of you, but I don't find that PLA has particularly great adhesion on textured PEI. That also seems like a potential bed heat issue, as PLA shouldn't really warp *that* badly. It can, but only in pretty weird circumstances. I dunno, I've gone through probably 30+ rolls of PLA on my P1P with the included textured sheet and have had 0 adhesion issues with it. I usually have to wait for it to cool all the way down before the print will pop off the plate.
|
|
#
?
Jul 7, 2023 21:55
|
|
|
If the ambient temp of the room is low and/or there are any droughts this will also not help with adhesion and warping but as has already been said that skirt suggests other more pressing adjustments needed..
|
|
#
?
Jul 7, 2023 22:24
|
|
|
Those with direct drive, are you seeing excessive stringing ? I was running PLA at 220, ABS at 250, and I have noticed bad stringing with various brands lately, with brand new, dried, and old stuff left out. Interestingly this was not a problem with some Orange KVP and I ran some retraction tests and i see evidence that this particular PLA wants 185, and hatchbox abs wants 230. I also have my retraction up to 1mm @ 30mm/sec. Am I just still too wet or is this my new life now, looking at a bigger retract? Ellis suggests that 1mm is pretty much your max for DD unless something is really trash.
|
|
#
?
Jul 7, 2023 22:31
|
|
|
Roundboy posted:Those with direct drive, are you seeing excessive stringing ? I was running PLA at 220, ABS at 250, and I have noticed bad stringing with various brands lately, with brand new, dried, and old stuff left out. Try a new nozzle. Worn nozzles can make stringing a big issue. Also, over-retraction can do the same. Unless you're running some wild long melt zone, 1mm seems.. a lot.
|
|
#
?
Jul 7, 2023 22:37
|
|
|
So I'm thinking of selling my Prusa Mini and going to this setup: Kobra Max X1C Prusa MK3s (already own this, no reason to sell or part with it) plus my resin unit. thoughts?
|
|
#
?
Jul 7, 2023 22:52
|
|
|
Nerobro posted:Try a new nozzle. Worn nozzles can make stringing a big issue. Also, over-retraction can do the same. Unless you're running some wild long melt zone, 1mm seems.. a lot. It's a new . 6 nozzle, but it was doing it on the .4 as well. I do wonder if my wipes a long the brass brush are causing premature wear, but I can always check I am trying 1.5mm now, but I guess I can start on a new nozzle with very little retraction and go from there I really hope I don't need to take apart the extruder gears(again)
|
|
#
?
Jul 8, 2023 02:12
|
|
|
I do get a bit of stringing/wisps but I haven’t gone to any special lengths to eliminate it, for me I think it’s largely a side effect of the Volcano hotend my printer runs.
|
|
#
?
Jul 8, 2023 02:49
|
|
|
Whenever I get a wispy print I hit it with a 1-second blast from a heat gun and that almost always makes it presentable
|
|
#
?
Jul 8, 2023 02:55
|
|
|
Same, I keep a torch lighter in my printer toolbox for wisps and small strings.
|
|
#
?
Jul 8, 2023 02:58
|
|
|
It's not just whisps, think of the traditional 4 post retract tower and all sides have basically a net between them. I fixed it largely with temp, but I have some other artifacts on seams or small pointy areas, like gorn tops, etc. I really just need to wipe it all away and do some specific testing and tweaking I dumped the latest PS and went back to the last stable SS, but I wonder if the issue I had were hardware vs slicer
|
|
#
?
Jul 8, 2023 03:09
|
|
|
Roundboy posted:It's a new . 6 nozzle, but it was doing it on the .4 as well. I do wonder if my wipes a long the brass brush are causing premature wear, but I can always check
|
|
#
?
Jul 8, 2023 12:54
|
|
|
ilkhan posted:I think you're going in the wrong direction. My ABS profile is 0.5mm@40mm/s and temps of 240/110. i agree? My original temps were in the 230s, then i swapped away from the latest beta superslicer and redid the ellis KVP profile in the stable one which uses 250. Somewhere in there i swapped to .6 (but .4 did it) and printed out that nasa chainmail that worked out awesomely in KVP, but when i tried some PLA i got crazy stringing... hich madew me drop PLA from 215 to 180 as tested via retraction tower, then i swapped to ABS because that always worked for me, and THAT started stringing like a champ. Oh i had some TPU and PETG for funs in there, but i expected stringing. Now that i type all that out loud i think i just need to go back to square 1 w/ ellis and tune it all again to see where i went wrong. I can go back to .4 as the .6 is fast, but its just not worth the speed w/ stringing. Im still printing everything @ .2 layer anyway
|
|
#
?
Jul 8, 2023 14:02
|
|
|
Put on the 0.6 and tune for that.
|
|
#
?
Jul 8, 2023 14:46
|
|
|
Without arachne? I might just re restart and end up with PS again with the changes that are now in main. I just hate the fact the width and flow percentages are based on a complete new standard (layer vs nozzle) compared to SS I just need to pick some numbers and tune, and test test test.
|
|
#
?
Jul 8, 2023 15:02
|
|
|
Roundboy posted:Clean with soap and water. And scrub it with a yellow scrub pad This is good info, much better said than I have done. I do the same when I wash my beds and watch how the water interacts with the bed, really helps me understand how dirty it is. My one tip to add to this would be buying cheap "magic eraser" sponges, they are a really good for doing the scrubbing!
|
|
#
?
Jul 8, 2023 19:05
|
|
|
Actually I would hesitate on a magic eraser. I'm talking about those yellow sponges with the green scrub side, whereas I am under the impression a magic eraser might actually rub the coating off, as it actually acts like a very fine sandpaper Magic eraser is not recommended for painted or non stick surfaces, etc as it wears down really well
|
|
#
?
Jul 8, 2023 20:28
|
|
|
For something like PEI, it might be better to go with a stronger detergent, rather than scrubbing. Dilute 4:1 and zap it in the microwave until hot. Wear gloves and safety glasses to avoid chemical burns (contains sodium hydroxide).
|
|
#
?
Jul 8, 2023 22:29
|
|
|
Erhh. dishwashing soap and a bit of elbow grease is more than enough.
|
|
#
?
Jul 8, 2023 22:50
|
|
|
ryanrs posted:For something like PEI, it might be better to go with a stronger detergent, rather than scrubbing. Dilute 4:1 and zap it in the microwave until hot. Wear gloves and safety glasses to avoid chemical burns (contains sodium hydroxide).
|
|
#
?
Jul 8, 2023 23:04
|
|
|
Yeah, some regular old Dawn dish soap has always served me well, never needed to use anything stronger.
|
|
#
?
Jul 8, 2023 23:06
|
|
|
I got an X1 Carbon last week and it's been great so far, though the glue stick is a bit annoying. I ordered a PEI sheet. It arrived today and I realized the first layer inspection doesn't work on it. This seems unfortunate but the surface finish and no glue is awesome so I'm probably going to keep using the PEI.
|
|
#
?
Jul 9, 2023 00:49
|
|
|
Hueforge with midjourney is a cool combo 
|
|
#
?
Jul 9, 2023 01:42
|
|
|
w00tmonger posted:Hueforge with midjourney is a cool combo That is awesome! Nice work. I have such a tough time making such dramatic colors work like that. Most of my prints are different shades of the same color.
|
|
#
?
Jul 9, 2023 03:37
|
|
|
Is there a good tutorial on hueforge? Everything I've watched so far has amounted to "uh you just uhhhhh move these sliders until it looks good"
|
|
#
?
Jul 9, 2023 03:44
|
|
|
Sockser posted:Is there a good tutorial on hueforge? Not really,but the discord has been. A handy resource. Other than that, just a bit of YouTube stuff from the developer Don't think I have the discord link available, but you can always shoot him a message on the store like I did
|
|
#
?
Jul 9, 2023 04:03
|
|
|
I think a bit of IPA on a rag and using that to clean your PEI should be enough, unless there is like physical stuff there.
|
|
#
?
Jul 9, 2023 08:13
|
|
|
Finally had the time to install this new bed. The printer turns on again Only because this is a hell printer it now just starts heating the hot end as soon as you hit the on switch and the bed doesn't heat at all https://media.discordapp.net/attachments/769186746272317462/1127591168499265556/PXL_20230709_132330073.mp4
|
|
#
?
Jul 9, 2023 14:26
|
|
|
I finally got around to upgrading the part cooling fan and duct on my S1, it looks a little unwieldy compared to the stock setup but I'm finally getting decent overhangs
|
|
#
?
Jul 9, 2023 15:09
|
|
|
I just recently read a bunch of posts here and decided to buy a P1P (thanks). Coming from an Ender 3 Pro, it's night and day. Ignoring the fact it took like ~10 mins to unbox the printer to printing a really good benchy, everything prints in a fraction of time at pretty good quality. I feel like I was printing in the stone ages, having to have my first few Ender prints being calibration cubes and those bed leveling test prints. Even worse, the upgrade prints and pre-buying springs/plates/etc. before you even print anything worth while. Though one thing that isn't really brought up is that this printer really needs a stable surface as it shakes like a washing machine sometimes, especially during bed leveling. I already had some damping pads that I put under one of those Ikea coffee table to help with the vibration/noise. Overall, if I knew this printer would be this good, I would had bought the X1C.
|
|
#
?
Jul 9, 2023 18:55
|
|
|
One of the big dangers with a Bambu though: you set aside one project you figure you'll sit working on over the summer, and it's already done by the time the summer vacation starts. Makerbot T-Rex, the tweaked one on printables, at 200% scale, 0.2mm PLA. (White, spraypainted with GW Wraithbone for colour.) (With the exception of the 'hold-y uppy' rod which is transparent PETG.) The ominous creaking has subsided, but I really hope the (large amount of) hot glue will keep it stable. If I did it again I'd probably find some kind of rubber cement or something to combine the joints. Not entirely sure what the print time was in total since I redid the ribs a bit, but probably like 60-70 hours or so? It goes by pretty fast when you don't need to baby the machine.
|
|
#
?
Jul 9, 2023 19:53
|
|
|
TwoDice posted:I got an X1 Carbon last week and it's been great so far, though the glue stick is a bit annoying. I ordered a PEI sheet. It arrived today and I realized the first layer inspection doesn't work on it. Their "high temp" build sheet is smooth PEI, fwiw. (I also found the default cold plate & glue stick pretty  to deal with for anything other than small stuff.)
|
|
#
?
Jul 9, 2023 21:22
|
|
|
SubNat posted:One of the big dangers with a Bambu though: you set aside one project you figure you'll sit working on over the summer, and it's already done by the time the summer vacation starts. A guy in my town printed one of these out at some huge size and donated it to the local children's museum.
|
|
#
?
Jul 9, 2023 23:40
|
|
|
I have a carbon fiber pattern smooth PEI and a forged carbon pattern smooth PEO sheet. Both have held better across the board than the cool plate in my X1-C.
|
|
#
?
Jul 9, 2023 23:56
|
|
|
Yeah the cool plate / high temperature stickers for bambu are garbage, that I can easily agree on. I've had issues with both of them quite a bit. Mine got screwed up early on, I have a few replacements but ehh. I bought a honeybadger PEI sheet that I've liked when I don't want a textured surface. Sweet, looks awesome! I know the feeling of having many unfinished projects
|
|
#
?
Jul 10, 2023 03:16
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 29, 2024 22:55 |
|
|
So...coming from FDM, I realized I have zero idea how to support things for resin. Been watching a few videos but it's mostly for miniatures & busts. How would you go about supporting something like this? It's transparent so the less supports the better, but of course it has to print right for that to even matter. This is half an electronics shell/case. The supports here are mostly just me loving around.
Edit: Replaced the gray on gray    Round 2:  
Bondematt fucked around with this message at 06:04 on Jul 10, 2023 |
|
#
?
Jul 10, 2023 04:20
|
|
