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That Works
Jul 22, 2006

Every revolution evaporates and leaves behind only the slime of a new bureaucracy


SpartanIvy posted:

Well poo poo, now I kind of want a Ryobi garage door opener.

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Arsenic Lupin
Apr 12, 2012

This particularly rapid💨 unintelligible 😖patter💁 isn't generally heard🧏‍♂️, and if it is🤔, it doesn't matter💁.


Sigh. We moved two years ago, and I've been trying to find my good Fiskars shears ever since. Well, today I found them ... in a box that had gotten soaked. :(



I can obviously replace them, but these were gifts from my husband over the years and are precious. How would you suggest restoring them to function?

ThinkFear
Sep 15, 2007

Buy yourself some evaporust and let them soak. Maybe a light wire brushing after that and an oiling and you'll be back in business.

Arsenic Lupin
Apr 12, 2012

This particularly rapid💨 unintelligible 😖patter💁 isn't generally heard🧏‍♂️, and if it is🤔, it doesn't matter💁.


Unfortunately, they have plastic-dipped handles, so just dumping them in a vat of anything is going to be tricky.

e: whoops, nvm, their FAQ says they don't harm plastic. https://www.evapo-rust.com/evapo-rust-faqs/

Squibbles
Aug 24, 2000

Mwaha ha HA ha!

Arsenic Lupin posted:

Unfortunately, they have plastic-dipped handles, so just dumping them in a vat of anything is going to be tricky.

e: whoops, nvm, their FAQ says they don't harm plastic. https://www.evapo-rust.com/evapo-rust-faqs/

Yeah Evaporust is remarkably gentle on everything except rust.

wesleywillis
Dec 30, 2016

SUCK A MALE CAMEL'S DICK WITH MIRACLE WHIP!!

Arsenic Lupin posted:

Unfortunately, they have plastic-dipped handles, so just dumping them in a vat of anything is going to be tricky.

e: whoops, nvm, their FAQ says they don't harm plastic. https://www.evapo-rust.com/evapo-rust-faqs/

I've used vinegar (the 10% cleaning stuff) to derust a bunch of stuff, though I don't know how it would do for the handles.

deimos
Nov 30, 2006

Forget it man this bat is whack, it's got poobrain!
Can always use the gel evaporust only on the relevant parts to get them rust free then do a shorter dip in the liquid stuff. I recommend a lanolin based product (fluid film, surface shield, plain old lanolin) to protect them long term.

Another option is ospho only on the rusty parts and keep it pointing down so it doesn't flow into the plastic.

The rust oleum rust converting gel stuff is also really good and doesn't seem to harm plastic too much.

deimos fucked around with this message at 23:02 on Jul 13, 2023

Meow Meow Meow
Nov 13, 2010
You can also soak a paper towel in evaporust then wrap it only around the part you want to de-rust, not as effective as soaking, but certainly more controlled.

devicenull
May 30, 2007

Grimey Drawer
+1 for evaporust. I'd consider taking them apart before soaking them, you'll likely want to sharpen the blades afterwards anyway (due to the rust).

Rexxed
May 1, 2010

Dis is amazing!
I gotta try dis!

One nice thing about evaporust is that you can re-use it a fair amount as well. I bought a gallon jug but I've only used about 1/4 of it. I poured some of it in a plastic coffee can (red folgers one iirc) and using it repeatedly on small stuff. I just had to gasket the coffee can lid so it wouldn't evaporate. I used it on a hatchet head that had been lying in the damp garage and had gotten really rusty where the original army green paint had worn away and it didn't hurt the remaining paint or the wood handle at all. I've cleaned up a lot of stuff with it.

HolHorsejob
Mar 14, 2020

Portrait of Cheems II of Spain by Jabona Neftman, olo pint on fird
I have a ~20 year old delta drill press I recently got off craigslist. It's in great shape, with one exception: The table lift mechanism is stuck. It can kind of go up but not down.





I took it apart to clean out. The gear rack on the column looks fine, as does the worm gear, but the teeth on the pinion are mangled to poo poo. I can remove the worm gear, but I can't figure out how to get the pinion out. The shaft appears to be driven through the casting, but it doesn't move when I try to knock it out.

For the moment, I just took out the rack and I'm freeballing the height on this thing, so it's broadly usable, but not ideal. Anyone have a suggestion for getting the shaft out of the casting? I don't have an arbor press, nor do I have access to one unfortunately

deimos
Nov 30, 2006

Forget it man this bat is whack, it's got poobrain!
Drive punch? Penetrating oil may help. Try finding a parts list.

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


Yeah parts list will tell you. There could be an e-clip/snap ring on the interior by the gear which is holding it in place, or it might just be a press fit that needs a good soak and some loving taps with a punch.

A mix of half automatic transmission fluid and half acetone is a great penetrating oil an old machinist told me about. Works better than anything else I’ve tried.

deimos
Nov 30, 2006

Forget it man this bat is whack, it's got poobrain!
Kroil is pretty good. I use atf and acetone as well because it's cheap and available, project farm did like a 3 episode series on penetrants too. I think liquid wrench ended up pretty much the best option for the price.

deimos fucked around with this message at 18:46 on Jul 16, 2023

HolHorsejob
Mar 14, 2020

Portrait of Cheems II of Spain by Jabona Neftman, olo pint on fird

Kaiser Schnitzel posted:

Yeah parts list will tell you. There could be an e-clip/snap ring on the interior by the gear which is holding it in place, or it might just be a press fit that needs a good soak and some loving taps with a punch.

A mix of half automatic transmission fluid and half acetone is a great penetrating oil an old machinist told me about. Works better than anything else I’ve tried.

thanks, soaking it made the difference. I also got a better-matched punch and managed to knock it out.

The pinion looked like poo poo, but it was mostly still intact. I knocked off some gouges and cleaned it up a bit with a file, reassembled the lift mechanism, and it works. this drill press is now back in business~~~

It's nice to actually finish these tool maintenance and refurb projects. Next up is this table saw refurb. Gonna align the blade, get a new fence, make a dust port/housing, and upgrade the motor.

MrOnBicycle
Jan 18, 2008
Wait wat?
We are doing some major renovations on our family house and so far we've gotten by easily by using hand saws and circle saws for the roofing and other miscellaneous that we've done. I'm contemplating getting a miter saw though as we'll probably build a 15m^2 tool shed soon, and in the future we'll do a ton of interior stuff.
Is it a major upgrade when it comes to saving time? I don't mind spending money to save time as we are doing all this between work and other stuff, so getting as much done as possible in the shortest amount of time is important. I've got 4 weeks of vacation coming up as well, so making the most of that would be great.

If so, are there any recommendations? We are in the Ryobi eco system, but I'd prefer a saw that isn't battery driven. So far I've looked at the Bosch professional saw in the $300-600 range, and the reviews seem good. Preferably I'd try to get a second hand one though.

MrOnBicycle fucked around with this message at 10:00 on Jul 17, 2023

Calidus
Oct 31, 2011

Stand back I'm going to try science!
Miter saws with a stand a great for cutting dimensional lumber. Without a stand/table there isn’t a significant benefit over a circular saw imo. Stands give you better ergonomics, they support the piece(s) you are cutting, and allow you make repeatable cuts if you set stops. Any name brand single bevel saw will probably do everything you need. The $600 dual bevel sliders are probably over kill unless you plan doing a ton of crown molding or getting into woodworking.

12” miter saws can cut a 4x4 post in single pass, 10” generally can not but a few of 10” sliders can probably do it.

tater_salad
Sep 15, 2007


Also step 1. Buy a Diablo blade and throw away whatever poo poo came with your saw.

SpeedFreek
Jan 10, 2008
And Im Lobster Jesus!
Even without a stand it will be better for cutting angles but get a stand anyway, get at least a 12" blade too.

devicenull
May 30, 2007

Grimey Drawer
Miter saw w/ stand is a huge time saver IMO. I just wish I'd bought one with a laser on it, that would have made things even faster.

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


devicenull posted:

Miter saw w/ stand is a huge time saver IMO. I just wish I'd bought one with a laser on it, that would have made things even faster.

Lasers are terrible but the the shadow line thing Dewalt does is great.

SpartanIvy
May 18, 2007
Hair Elf

Kaiser Schnitzel posted:

Lasers are terrible but the the shadow line thing Dewalt does is great.

Milwaukee has the shadow line too and I agree that it's way better than any laser. I can see where the individual teeth of my blade are going to line up and it lets me be crazy accurate when I need to be.

UKJeff
May 17, 2023

by vyelkin

Calidus posted:

Miter saws with a stand a great for cutting dimensional lumber. Without a stand/table there isn’t a significant benefit over a circular saw imo. Stands give you better ergonomics, they support the piece(s) you are cutting, and allow you make repeatable cuts if you set stops. Any name brand single bevel saw will probably do everything you need. The $600 dual bevel sliders are probably over kill unless you plan doing a ton of crown molding or getting into woodworking.

12” miter saws can cut a 4x4 post in single pass, 10” generally can not but a few of 10” sliders can probably do it.

It’s not really an advantage, imo… with a circ saw you bring the saw to the lumber, with a mitre saw you bring the lumber to the saw. Even a 2x4x8 weighs as much as a circ saw and is more unwieldy to move around and adjust on a stand. Do that more than a few times and you’re expending more energy and time than using a circ saw and cutting on the pile

Mitre saw is good to have, even a single compound non-sliding for $2-300, but they’re not much good for framing

wandler20
Nov 13, 2002

How many Championships?

MrOnBicycle posted:

We are doing some major renovations on our family house and so far we've gotten by easily by using hand saws and circle saws for the roofing and other miscellaneous that we've done. I'm contemplating getting a miter saw though as we'll probably build a 15m^2 tool shed soon, and in the future we'll do a ton of interior stuff.
Is it a major upgrade when it comes to saving time? I don't mind spending money to save time as we are doing all this between work and other stuff, so getting as much done as possible in the shortest amount of time is important. I've got 4 weeks of vacation coming up as well, so making the most of that would be great.

If so, are there any recommendations? We are in the Ryobi eco system, but I'd prefer a saw that isn't battery driven. So far I've looked at the Bosch professional saw in the $300-600 range, and the reviews seem good. Preferably I'd try to get a second hand one though.

If you're doing a ton of interior work you'll likely be doing some finish work and for that you will definitely need a decent miter saw. As suggested get a 12".

MrOnBicycle
Jan 18, 2008
Wait wat?
Thanks for the help! I'm sold on one. I'll get a 12" as suggested. Seems like those Diablo blades seem hard to get in my country without costing hundreds, but I'll have to look some more. Might just order from the US if they are that great.

Squibbles
Aug 24, 2000

Mwaha ha HA ha!

MrOnBicycle posted:

Thanks for the help! I'm sold on one. I'll get a 12" as suggested. Seems like those Diablo blades seem hard to get in my country without costing hundreds, but I'll have to look some more. Might just order from the US if they are that great.

Diablo are good partly because they are fairly inexpensive. I wouldn't pay a large premium for them

Schiavona
Oct 8, 2008

Kaiser Schnitzel posted:

Lasers are terrible but the the shadow line thing Dewalt does is great.

I had no idea this was a thing, and now I have a kit coming to install a shadow line, so thank you

tater_salad
Sep 15, 2007


MrOnBicycle posted:

Thanks for the help! I'm sold on one. I'll get a 12" as suggested. Seems like those Diablo blades seem hard to get in my country without costing hundreds, but I'll have to look some more. Might just order from the US if they are that great.

I'm sorry I assumed you were us based (as I always do with everyone). Don't pay a premium. Diablo blades are recommended here because they're better than the poo poo ones that come in the box without being $50. They're decent quality at a decent price. Check in with your fellow country people to determine what brand fits that bill in your area.

BeAuMaN
Feb 18, 2014

I'M A LEAD FARMER, MOTHERFUCKER!

Edit: Dead Deal :rip:
Going to bring this up again:
https://www.directtoolsoutlet.com/product/P20310

Last time I posted about the Oil-free Pole Saw kit by itself for $108. The above kit also includes the hand/pruning chainsaw, and the battery is 2AH this time. All for ~$110 + $15 shipping. See below quote for more info on the Oil-free and recommended accessories. Still use it, still works great, even though it gets light use. Love being able to stuff it into a bag and toss it somewhere without oil leaking everywhere.

BeAuMaN posted:

18V Ryobi One+ Oil-free Pole Saw w/ 8" saw blade + 1.5Ah Battery + Charger for $108
https://www.directtoolsoutlet.com/product/P2510
If you also want the kit that has the seperate 8" hand/pruning chainsaw, that'll run you $150... but paying another $42 for the hand/pruning chainsaw isn't that hot of a deal imo:
https://www.directtoolsoutlet.com/product/P20310

Two goons asked me to ping them on this. Yes, it is Oil-free. A chainsaw you don't have to oil! What foul magic is this? According to the sales rep in this video, Ryobi did some testing on solving the oil leaking problem, and they found if a chainsaw is running a chain slower than 5 meters/sec, then it doesn't need oil. That's why they don't have any big oil-free chainsaws, but these little guys. Anyhow, I yoinked one around Black Friday and used it on a tree and it worked fine. I think the chain came loose at a certain point, but otherwise it had no issues, cut just fine. Then I got hella sick and haven't used it since. Comes with battery and charger; the 1.5Ah is plenty of battery to deal with a few trees. So if you want a pole saw that's not going to leak oil and you can just toss it in your garage/tool closet when you're done, then get this. It doesn't come with a bag and the blade scabbard on it is poo poo. I turned to Amazon:
Greenworks Pole Saw Bag: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01ID8838Q
It fits perfectly so that it doesn't have a bunch of extra room to jostle around. You can probably also find a tripod bag with similar dimensions.
Rando Chinese 8" - 12" Chainsaw Bar Cover
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09GMCRMC7
Works fine. I used this exact one but there's a bunch of these since it isn't anything special.

Also some other bundles on sale at DTO: https://slickdeals.net/f/16802873-d...gh-07-19-23?v=1

BeAuMaN fucked around with this message at 05:27 on Jul 21, 2023

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009


Oh no, this is now my gateway drug into the Ryobi system. I did not want to add another battery to the lineup, but welp, here we go.

wandler20
Nov 13, 2002

How many Championships?
I cannot recommend this sprayer enough: https://www.directtoolsoutlet.com/product/P2803BTL

I paid full price for it and it was worth it, for $60 I might have to add another.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

There's a backpack one that a pesticide guy I know bought for occasional jobs and he loves it. I'm kinda figuring that will be my next purchase.

wandler20
Nov 13, 2002

How many Championships?

Motronic posted:

There's a backpack one that a pesticide guy I know bought for occasional jobs and he loves it. I'm kinda figuring that will be my next purchase.

I have a 4g Dewalt 18v backpack sprayer for the lake and it's fantastic. 4g is perfect to cover everything in one batch for my needs which is nice.

SpartanIvy
May 18, 2007
Hair Elf
I've got the Ryobi 5 gallon backpack sprayer and it's life changing. I can put down my usual pesticides in like a quarter of the time.

Mr. Mambold
Feb 13, 2011

Aha. Nice post.



Motronic posted:

There's a backpack one that a pesticide guy I know bought for occasional jobs and he loves it. I'm kinda figuring that will be my next purchase.

I got one partly based on (hope this doesn't sour it for you) a rave by our favorite Tool thread shitposter. As I'm walking to the (empty at the time) checkout in H-D, there's a guy with the same thing in a cart right ahead of me. I try to pull up to chat, but he just keeps on trucking out the door with his 5 finger discount.

It's a great unit, btw, but at my age, I can only go 1 gallon at a time in the tank and still get it over my shoulders without too much hassle. Which is okay too.

edit- I was referring to the 5 gallon one

Mr. Mambold fucked around with this message at 17:55 on Jul 18, 2023

HolHorsejob
Mar 14, 2020

Portrait of Cheems II of Spain by Jabona Neftman, olo pint on fird
I'm getting a 1.5 hp motor for my table saw, just a garden variety synchronous AC motor. I can wire it for 115v or 230v, since I have an available & live dryer outlet in my garage. Normally I wouldn't even consider 230, but at 115, the max current draw for this motor is 13.2A, which is close to the limit for the outlet (I think? Breakers are either 15A or 20A, and poorly labeled of course.)

Which would you pick? I'd prefer to wire it for 115, since I already have all the parts and cables to do so, but if I'm running a cut in thick hardwood that might redline the motor, I don't want to worry about the wiring job on the outlets or extension cable (if I end up using one).

BeAuMaN
Feb 18, 2014

I'M A LEAD FARMER, MOTHERFUCKER!

Motronic posted:

Oh no, this is now my gateway drug into the Ryobi system. I did not want to add another battery to the lineup, but welp, here we go.
One of us. One of us. One of us.

Just wait for the portable fan deals. :v:

SpartanIvy posted:

I've got the Ryobi 5 gallon backpack sprayer and it's life changing. I can put down my usual pesticides in like a quarter of the time.

Almost bought the 4 gallon backpack sprayer during this sale in February: https://slickdeals.net/f/16471087-buy-the-p197-one-4ah-battery-89-99-get-a-qualifying-one-tool-for-1-shipping-14-99-at-direct-tools-outlet

It came with a 4AH battery for ~$106 shipped. I almost jumped on it and wish I did but I really didn't want to spend any more money.

They also had the portable air compressor + battery for the same price. It was kind of a weird sale but it was great for normally expensive tools.

MRC48B
Apr 2, 2012

HolHorsejob posted:

I'm getting a 1.5 hp motor for my table saw, just a garden variety synchronous AC motor. I can wire it for 115v or 230v, since I have an available & live dryer outlet in my garage. Normally I wouldn't even consider 230, but at 115, the max current draw for this motor is 13.2A, which is close to the limit for the outlet (I think? Breakers are either 15A or 20A, and poorly labeled of course.)

Which would you pick? I'd prefer to wire it for 115, since I already have all the parts and cables to do so, but if I'm running a cut in thick hardwood that might redline the motor, I don't want to worry about the wiring job on the outlets or extension cable (if I end up using one).

Any wiring or extension cable is not the issue, the issue is circuit loading. If you're trying to run a dust extractor or another load on the same 115v circuit simultaneously, you may have a problem with nuisance breaker trips.

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


HolHorsejob posted:

I'm getting a 1.5 hp motor for my table saw, just a garden variety synchronous AC motor. I can wire it for 115v or 230v, since I have an available & live dryer outlet in my garage. Normally I wouldn't even consider 230, but at 115, the max current draw for this motor is 13.2A, which is close to the limit for the outlet (I think? Breakers are either 15A or 20A, and poorly labeled of course.)

Which would you pick? I'd prefer to wire it for 115, since I already have all the parts and cables to do so, but if I'm running a cut in thick hardwood that might redline the motor, I don't want to worry about the wiring job on the outlets or extension cable (if I end up using one).

220. You’ll trip that breaker all the time on 110 if the circuit is on a 15A breaker, and that saw should really be on a 20A breaker minimum if you are running it on 110. If you have outlets on two different circuits in your garage or if the existing 110 circuits are 20A, you could do it 110.

If you do want to do it on 220, double check with the wiring thread. Running such a small load on such a larger breaker isn’t ideal IIRC, and a problem may not necessarily trip the larger breaker. I think in a perfect world you’d us the existing wiring run to your dryer plug to add a 220 subpanel which would have correctly sized breakers for the dryer and the table saw. But I am not an electrician, so definitely ask someone who actually knows.

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stupid puma
Apr 25, 2005

BeAuMaN posted:

Going to bring this up again:
https://www.directtoolsoutlet.com/product/P20310

Last time I posted about the Oil-free Pole Saw kit by itself for $108. The above kit also includes the hand/pruning chainsaw, and the battery is 2AH this time. All for ~$110 + $15 shipping. See below quote for more info on the Oil-free and recommended accessories. Still use it, still works great, even though it gets light use. Love being able to stuff it into a bag and toss it somewhere without oil leaking everywhere.

Also some other bundles on sale at DTO: https://slickdeals.net/f/16802873-d...gh-07-19-23?v=1

I bought the saw combo last time around. Took down a 5” pine last weekend with it. That was probably the limit for this thing but it worked and for basic yard trimming it’s great.

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