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Roundboy
Oct 21, 2008
p1S + ams arrives Friday, and my 9 rolls of hueforge pla and tpu arrived today through Monday

I cnt print anything in the meantime because my voron heater stopped heating past 220-225c and with 100% fan it struggles so much it throws an error

Time to just take the hotend apart and swap heaters I guess.

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tracecomplete
Feb 26, 2017

Bondematt posted:

There was a "heavy duty" wall hanger that was printed on its back so the layer lines were in the worst orientation possible.

The edges were curved so you couldn't just flip it on its side either.

Real easy to make myself but man, I hope no one was printing that.

So many electronics cases are the same way too, just straight up not designed to be printed in FDM or Resin, almost like a scan but it's not, they made it themselves. Maybe they are using some wonder material that has perfect layer adhesion but those tiny case clips are gonna ping off into space the first time you try to close it up

Yeah, I don't even think about those things at this point, I skip past. But the odd lack of design sensibilities in otherwise fit-for-purpose prints still strikes me sometimes.

Like--okay this is a stupidly small example, but I have a Delta tablesaw. The front of the tablesaw has a 50cm hollow steel bar. There's a single-piece print out there to make a slide-out drawer for it...except it's just a square box.



It's a single piece print, so it doesn't cover the whole end of the bar and only the parts in the printable space. The designer didn't think about a human sticking their fingers inside the bin of the drawer so there's no chamfers on the top edge, no fillet for aiding you in pulling something out of the drawer. There's no handle for pulling it out of the bar, so you have to grab the edges and pull.

Somebody else made a two-part drawer that does the same thing, and even put a handle on it.



That handle is a 8mm rectangle sticking out. Few humans are going to effectively grab that little tab, especially when not looking at it. And the design of it is hard to assemble; you have to blindly match up two holes to put it together, it's weird.

And then, annoyed, I designed a two-piece part (with the walls of the box extending out a couple mm into drawer-front recesses so the assembly is trivial) that uses one screw to hold it together and has an easy to grab handle with thumb detents, in like...ten minutes.



There's a fillet inside it to help you scoop out stuff from the drawer, and all the edges are chamfered to avoid whacking yourself on them. Easy print, easy installation, it wasn't even harder to design for me than doing something half-assed would've been. This wasn't even one (1) rear end's worth of effort. Maybe like, 50 milli-rear end at best.

I sorta wish there was "Printables: The Good Parts" or something that would curate things that are actually designed well and worth investing time into. But that'd probably get turned into a mess too.

queeb
Jun 10, 2004

m



I loaded a printable scenery resin print into lychee and it had 456 islands

BlackIronHeart
Aug 2, 2004

PROCEED
It's like there's a taboo for prototyping and iterative design work. Like it shouldn't be done by the first designer because they're doing everyone a favor by getting a model with questionable design out ASAP and the community will iterate upon it to fix it.

tracecomplete
Feb 26, 2017

BlackIronHeart posted:

It's like there's a taboo for prototyping and iterative design work. Like it shouldn't be done by the first designer because they're doing everyone a favor by getting a model with questionable design out ASAP and the community will iterate upon it to fix it.

By importing an STL, of course.

Like this is why everything I put on Printables has a STEP and a F3D. I know I'm a moron. What's their excuse?!

tater_salad
Sep 15, 2007



Ohh poo poo I have that saw very likely what's the good ones Link.

Bondematt
Jan 26, 2007

Not too stupid

tracecomplete posted:

By importing an STL, of course.

Like this is why everything I put on Printables has a STEP and a F3D. I know I'm a moron. What's their excuse?!

I love it when I see this. I never got the reason behind only releasing the STL.

IncredibleIgloo
Feb 17, 2011





The Eyes Have It posted:

Kinda recently in the 3d printing for tabletop thread someone was talking about how one minis creator doesn't actually test print the minis they publish :regd09:

Yeah, that may have been me talking about one of my favorite designers, in terms of aesthetic, Stationforge. They have a discord and I jump in it every once in a while to try and help people out and whatnot, and I get the feeling that I am usually one of the first to print some of their models. I am always trying to be nice when I find errors and stuff, but it gets frustrating after a while. Once some guy came in pretty hot about none of the supports working for a kit and @ the support person in the discord. They were pretty hot because they had to re-do all the supports because they were a print shop running them off to sell and they asked her if she had printed the model that was failing, as the failure method was such that it is incredibly unlikely that anyone would get a satisfactory print. She said that she doesn't have time to test print most of the stuff she supports, which I thought was crazy, and she said when she does test runs she uses ABS like resin at 0.03 layer height.

I mean, I feel like you should probably test everything you support, that would just be good business. I would imagine it would be helpful to test at the most common print parameters as well, like standard resin at standard layer height.

tracecomplete
Feb 26, 2017

tater_salad posted:

Ohh poo poo I have that saw very likely what's the good ones Link.

I haven't posted it yet but I'll put it up tonight.

Bondematt posted:

I love it when I see this. I never got the reason behind only releasing the STL.

Do you want a longer box? Well just import the STL and just extend it out and whoops they used a fillet on the Z axis (like an actual criminal) so all your geometry is totally hosed, maybe just start over.

Roundboy
Oct 21, 2008
Some models are very obvious people spent the time adjusting for fdm printing (flexi rex) and so many others are quick blender edits for a joke, like missle toad or adding the rocks head to most things

So. Many frustrating prints failed I never knew were me or the crap model

Roundboy fucked around with this message at 00:20 on Jul 20, 2023

tracecomplete
Feb 26, 2017

tater_salad posted:

Ohh poo poo I have that saw very likely what's the good ones Link.

https://www.printables.com/model/531374-50mm-rail-drawer-fits-delta-36-725t2

it's tonight I guess

(I have a lot of organization stuff, some gridfinity, etc. in there. I'm still learning how this all works but some of it's pretty nice, I'm pleased with it)

tater_salad
Sep 15, 2007


Sweet thanks.

Snackmar
Feb 23, 2005

I'M PROGRAMMED TO LOVE THIS CHOCOLATY CAKE... MY CIRCUITS LIGHT UP FOR THAT FUDGY ICING.
P1S trip report:

So I bought two P1S combos and an extra AMS. My plan is to have one be a single material unit and then have three AMS on the other. If that turns out to be not interesting enough, I'll put one back on the single material unit.

None of the filament or the AMS Hub have arrived yet, so right now only one AMS is hooked up.

I was not prepared for:
1. How fast these things print
2. How little actual work there would be from open box -> press print
3. What the self-test process sounds like (seriously, how is there not a warning in the setup video to say "hey btw this is going to shake and vibrate like something is going terribly wrong but it's okay trust us")

I did a benchy on each, and they're now doing some larger test prints. The single material one is making the sample vase using some random PLA, and the AMS one is making one of those print-in-placed articulated octopus designs using two sample PLA colours (and support PLA for one spot under its mouth)

This is my first setup with multimaterial printing at home. Previously I'd only had that at work on industrial devices where models had to be specifically designed and exported as multi-file assemblies, in order for each segment to be individually selected for material assignment. (on the fancier machines, this could include rubber-like overmolding + various rigid materials in one print)

I was really impressed with the process here for adding adhoc custom colour. The software easily separated all the sections, where I could do the click -> choose material stuff, but then also being able to "paint" an arbitrary colour scheme and make use of the explode slider to move things out of the way: wow!

I had one error where the support pla failed to fully retract after printing a layer, so the printer paused and had me inspect it and press retry. (I think I didn't quite set that spool in place correctly the first time.) Things are looking fine now, but one setting I did for the phone was to change its iOS notification banner style from "temporary" to "permanent" so that I don't miss anything important.

Hopefully the rest of the stuff comes soon!

Sockser
Jun 28, 2007

This world only remembers the results!




I'm sure I've posted about it before, but this right here is the absolute most well-designed 3d print I've ever had the joy of assembling

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4980205

Every different color is its own part, which is fine enough on its own, but they're all designed to neatly key into eachother
Nearly every part is designed to print completely without supports. The ones that do need supports have the supports end up on the inside of the model so the ugly interface layers are completely hidden.
Mechanisms that move cleanly and have had a ton of thought put into how they would interface in a 3d print

The final result looks clean as gently caress, no sanding or painting really required. It's just aces all around.



And then on the other end of the spectrum I'll pay $30 for stls of a prop from a game or something and the designer never bothered printing it themselves and there's no tolerances built in between the parts, or things are designed so terribly fragile that they won't go together, or the loving files so non-manifold that netfabb can't fix them and I have to gently caress around in blender


tracecomplete posted:



There's a fillet inside it to help you scoop out stuff from the drawer, and all the edges are chamfered to avoid whacking yourself on them. Easy print, easy installation, it wasn't even harder to design for me than doing something half-assed would've been. This wasn't even one (1) rear end's worth of effort. Maybe like, 50 milli-rear end at best.

I sorta wish there was "Printables: The Good Parts" or something that would curate things that are actually designed well and worth investing time into. But that'd probably get turned into a mess too.

By no means coming at you, but next time consider just putting the handle at a 45deg angle and then it doesn't even need to be a 2-part print
Like these: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3124672



e: all of the 3d printing subreddits are loving trash heaps, filled with people with $100 Ender3s and no idea what they're doing. I recently joined a Discord for 3d printed Iron Man helmets (and other cosplay), which is, y'know, a slightly more advanced topic than WHY FIRST LAYER BAD? and it is still filled with just
the worst




These are the people flooding your search results with absolutely lousy prints

Sockser fucked around with this message at 05:19 on Jul 20, 2023

BlackIronHeart
Aug 2, 2004

PROCEED

Sockser posted:

e: all of the 3d printing subreddits are loving trash heaps, filled with people with $100 Ender3s and no idea what they're doing.

1000%. I joined the 3Dprinting and FixMyPrint subreddits and I can't tell the posts apart day in and day out. Thank goodness for SA.

Son of Rodney
Feb 22, 2006

ohmygodohmygodohmygod

So I think I finally need some sort of filament drier, anybody got any recommendations? Between the sunlu or other brand ones and food dehydrators there's many options, and It's like the cheapest and least hassle option if it exists.

Roundboy
Oct 21, 2008
I got the new sunlu one from Kickstarter and it's been great, lots of options and it has a hike to act like a spool holder direct to your printer.


Also checked and the p1S is out for delivery TODAY. Time to toss the ender aside and make room for the new king in town. I have been playing with hueforge so I have a lot of ideas ready to go, but annoyingly polyterra shipped my 9 rolls in like 5 different orders all coming at various times

Has anyone printed the ams fixes or found the need?

mattfl
Aug 27, 2004

Roundboy posted:

I got the new sunlu one from Kickstarter and it's been great, lots of options and it has a hike to act like a spool holder direct to your printer.


Also checked and the p1S is out for delivery TODAY. Time to toss the ender aside and make room for the new king in town. I have been playing with hueforge so I have a lot of ideas ready to go, but annoyingly polyterra shipped my 9 rolls in like 5 different orders all coming at various times

Has anyone printed the ams fixes or found the need?

I printed the Hydra AMS -> https://www.printables.com/model/392134-hydra-ams-enhanced-bambu-lab-ams

It's a fairly easy print and the install is pretty straight forward. It's allowed me to use larger/smaller/wider rolls that you can't use with the stock AMS. Highly recommended.

NewFatMike
Jun 11, 2015

Anybody here with an X1C use the AMS with nylon and nylon support material? I’m curious if it’s gotten soggy on you mid print.

Snackmar
Feb 23, 2005

I'M PROGRAMMED TO LOVE THIS CHOCOLATY CAKE... MY CIRCUITS LIGHT UP FOR THAT FUDGY ICING.
Canadians with an AMS setup: this microwave stand from amazon.ca works pretty well!

Gonna make some short risers for the legs to get just a teeny bit more clearance in the bottom shelf, but otherwise I can fully open the lid in the middle and top shelves.

8-bit Miniboss
May 24, 2005

CORPO COPS CAME FOR MY :filez:

Snackmar posted:

Canadians with an AMS setup: this microwave stand from amazon.ca works pretty well!

Gonna make some short risers for the legs to get just a teeny bit more clearance in the bottom shelf, but otherwise I can fully open the lid in the middle and top shelves.

Ooh, I should find the American equivalent. I got my P1S combo yesterday and I realized I need a proper table for this thing still.

Neo Rasa
Mar 8, 2007
Everyone should play DUKE games.

:dukedog:

tracecomplete posted:

Yeah, I don't even think about those things at this point, I skip past. But the odd lack of design sensibilities in otherwise fit-for-purpose prints still strikes me sometimes.

I sorta wish there was "Printables: The Good Parts" or something that would curate things that are actually designed well and worth investing time into. But that'd probably get turned into a mess too.

I'm like this too, I use Thingiverse primarily and I just immediately go to the remixes if any whenever I see something interesting.

That said, it's inspired me to try modelling my own stuff and I'm a dumbass at that so far but hey, fun poo poo. :D

Snackmar
Feb 23, 2005

I'M PROGRAMMED TO LOVE THIS CHOCOLATY CAKE... MY CIRCUITS LIGHT UP FOR THAT FUDGY ICING.

8-bit Miniboss posted:

Ooh, I should find the American equivalent. I got my P1S combo yesterday and I realized I need a proper table for this thing still.

I was originally looking at this one from amazon.com (mentioned on /r/BambuLab), but the shipping/duties to Canada were ridiculous for some reason

The Eyes Have It
Feb 10, 2008

Third Eye Sees All
...snookums

Snackmar posted:

Canadians with an AMS setup: this microwave stand from amazon.ca works pretty well!

Gonna make some short risers for the legs to get just a teeny bit more clearance in the bottom shelf, but otherwise I can fully open the lid in the middle and top shelves.

Nice. I was kinda looking at this https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B08JTWKY2H/ which according to my measurements should comfortably fit up to two AMS, but your linked one has a third shelf which looks handy.

Roundboy
Oct 21, 2008
P1S arrived early and it's every bit as advertised. This thing serves its purpose and should be a staple in everyone's home, and I can see myself adding a new AMS


Bambu just tunes things really well, and the cost of entry is on par with my voron + all the tuning and tweaking I did. But NOBODY can touch the ams and how God drat simple and perfect it is out of the box. Home God drat run

Sure I'm sending my data to China ATM, but bambu studio is a slick interface especially for ams multi material. Everyone buy one.

Son of Rodney
Feb 22, 2006

ohmygodohmygodohmygod

Roundboy posted:

I got the new sunlu one from Kickstarter and it's been great, lots of options and it has a hike to act like a spool holder direct to your printer.


Also checked and the p1S is out for delivery TODAY. Time to toss the ender aside and make room for the new king in town. I have been playing with hueforge so I have a lot of ideas ready to go, but annoyingly polyterra shipped my 9 rolls in like 5 different orders all coming at various times

Has anyone printed the ams fixes or found the need?

Ended up seeing the sunlu s2 in a deal, thx for the feedback!

Tythas
Oct 3, 2013

Never felt at home in reality
Always hiding behind avatars


The Photopolymer Additive Manufacturing Alliance (PAMA), a collaboration between the National Institutes of Standards and Technology (NIST), and RadTech, have revised their "PROPER HANDLING OF UV CURABLE 3D PRINTING RESINS," guidance, and included a new section on frequently asked questions. In addition to the new FAQ, revised sections include: Good Housekeeping procedures, Clean up, Disposal and Storage.

https://pama3d.org/proper-handling-of-uv-curable-3d-printing-resins/

Rad-daddio
Apr 25, 2017

Tythas posted:

The Photopolymer Additive Manufacturing Alliance (PAMA), a collaboration between the National Institutes of Standards and Technology (NIST), and RadTech, have revised their "PROPER HANDLING OF UV CURABLE 3D PRINTING RESINS," guidance, and included a new section on frequently asked questions. In addition to the new FAQ, revised sections include: Good Housekeeping procedures, Clean up, Disposal and Storage.

https://pama3d.org/proper-handling-of-uv-curable-3d-printing-resins/

it says I'm supposed to wear a lab coat while handling UV resin.

:byoscience:

LightRailTycoon
Mar 24, 2017

Rad-daddio posted:

it says I'm supposed to wear a lab coat while handling UV resin.

:byoscience:

https://usedworkclothing.com/collections/used-lab-shop-coats

Tythas
Oct 3, 2013

Never felt at home in reality
Always hiding behind avatars


Rad-daddio posted:

it says I'm supposed to wear a lab coat while handling UV resin.

:byoscience:

gotta go for that Neil Patrick Harris/ Dr. Horrible Cosplay as I work on my resin printer and models

tracecomplete
Feb 26, 2017

Rad-daddio posted:

it says I'm supposed to wear a lab coat while handling UV resin.

:byoscience:

You're not supposed to wear a lab coat. You get to wear a lab coat. Congratulations.

Rad-daddio
Apr 25, 2017

tracecomplete posted:

You're not supposed to wear a lab coat. You get to wear a lab coat. Congratulations.

lol

also, does anyone else ever have their resin prints come out super shiny? I've been running Sunlu water washable gray resin in my Saturn 2 and all my prints have a sheen to them like they were polished. Kind of hard to see here but it's visible on the arms and cape.

IncredibleIgloo
Feb 17, 2011





Rad-daddio posted:

lol

also, does anyone else ever have their resin prints come out super shiny? I've been running Sunlu water washable gray resin in my Saturn 2 and all my prints have a sheen to them like they were polished. Kind of hard to see here but it's visible on the arms and cape.



Sometimes that can occur when you cure a print that is not fully dried, but that can also be caused by an insufficiently clean mini, at least for standard resin cleaned with IPA. I am unsure if the same thing happens with water washable resin. What is your washing procedure like? My first inclination would be to either make that process longer or more vigorous.

w00tmonger
Mar 9, 2011

F-F-FRIDAY NIGHT MOTHERFUCKERS

Have any of you resin nerds use sunlu tough resin at all? Im currently using whatever abs-like I can get my hands on with 10% tencaious, but resins such a pain in the dick to get a hold of.

sunlu tough is actually purchasable in canada, and in theory would be what Im ddoing but "pre-mixed". Any strong opinions before I buy out their inventory? Given Im mixing, maybe sunlu standard + tenacious would work fine too, but I dont want to risk it

I dont get what it is up with buying resin in canada... Sirayatech is available but expensive, but every other brand seems available in spurts which is a pain when Im running a business

Rad-daddio posted:

lol

also, does anyone else ever have their resin prints come out super shiny? I've been running Sunlu water washable gray resin in my Saturn 2 and all my prints have a sheen to them like they were polished. Kind of hard to see here but it's visible on the arms and cape.



Shiny, it can just be the resin sometimes, but it can point to overexposure. Also as an aside, water washable is not great from a strength perspective. I suspect a lot of it is really shady marketting to make people think they can dispose of resin down their sink instead of handling it properly

If it's shiny on 1side of the print especially,then I'd say its over-exposure . I've seen this before with white resin as it had some "bleed through" when exposing layers etc

w00tmonger fucked around with this message at 16:08 on Jul 21, 2023

ptier
Jul 2, 2007

Back off man, I'm a scientist.
Pillbug

Roundboy posted:

P1S arrived early and it's every bit as advertised. This thing serves its purpose and should be a staple in everyone's home, and I can see myself adding a new AMS


Bambu just tunes things really well, and the cost of entry is on par with my voron + all the tuning and tweaking I did. But NOBODY can touch the ams and how God drat simple and perfect it is out of the box. Home God drat run

Sure I'm sending my data to China ATM, but bambu studio is a slick interface especially for ams multi material. Everyone buy one.

Ordered mine Wednesday looks to be delivered next Wednesday. We are about to test the "super simple to setup" as I am a complete N00b and wanted a more "plug and play" 3D printing experience. Hopefully I'm not the better idiot.

Acid Reflux
Oct 18, 2004

ptier posted:

Ordered mine Wednesday looks to be delivered next Wednesday. We are about to test the "super simple to setup" as I am a complete N00b and wanted a more "plug and play" 3D printing experience. Hopefully I'm not the better idiot.

The fact that you were even able to assemble those two sentences puts you several tiers above a lot of the people that post in the Bambu FB group.

There are plenty of us here who can and absolutely will help if you run into any issues, but honestly - if you can read instructions and have maybe ever put together flat pack furniture, you've got this. The harder part will probably be learning new terminology, software, etc., but again... you've got collective decades of institutional knowledge in this thread to fall back on, so don't be afraid to shout if you need a hand. :)

Rad-daddio
Apr 25, 2017

IncredibleIgloo posted:

Sometimes that can occur when you cure a print that is not fully dried, but that can also be caused by an insufficiently clean mini, at least for standard resin cleaned with IPA. I am unsure if the same thing happens with water washable resin. What is your washing procedure like? My first inclination would be to either make that process longer or more vigorous.

w00tmonger posted:

Have any of you resin nerds use sunlu tough resin at all? Im currently using whatever abs-like I can get my hands on with 10% tencaious, but resins such a pain in the dick to get a hold of.

sunlu tough is actually purchasable in canada, and in theory would be what Im ddoing but "pre-mixed". Any strong opinions before I buy out their inventory? Given Im mixing, maybe sunlu standard + tenacious would work fine too, but I dont want to risk it

I dont get what it is up with buying resin in canada... Sirayatech is available but expensive, but every other brand seems available in spurts which is a pain when Im running a business

Shiny, it can just be the resin sometimes, but it can point to overexposure. Also as an aside, water washable is not great from a strength perspective. I suspect a lot of it is really shady marketting to make people think they can dispose of resin down their sink instead of handling it properly

If it's shiny on 1side of the print especially,then I'd say its over-exposure . I've seen this before with white resin as it had some "bleed through" when exposing layers etc

Ah, I see.





I still use IPA for the wash. My stuff goes into the wash and cure 2 minutes for the wash and 2 minutes each side for the cure.

But now that you mention it the mini still feels a little tacky so it might need more time.

IncredibleIgloo
Feb 17, 2011





Rad-daddio posted:

Ah, I see.





I still use IPA for the wash. My stuff goes into the wash and cure 2 minutes for the wash and 2 minutes each side for the cure.

But now that you mention it the mini still feels a little tacky so it might need more time.

One thing I like to do, mostly because I print quite a bit, is to have a pre rinse bucket of IPA. So when print comes off the plate it gest a swoosh in the pre rinse IPA bucket and then supports removed and then another quick swoosh. Then the prints get placed in the basket and into the wash station for 5 minutes or so, sometimes more depending on the size. The. pre rinse bucket can get pretty dirty, but that is ok, the rinse stays pretty clean. Then once a month I move the rinse IPA to the pre rinse, and the pre rinse IPA to the containment/disposal process. It allows you to minimize IPA consumption.

Also, if you are already using IPA I would advise using different resin. Water washable resin has some bad characteristics in regards to how brittle it is and can sometimes have unexpected cracks form after the print. The brittleness of it also makes it harder to print with. An ABS like resin is typically the most forgiving and best for miniatures, if that is what you are printing.

Snackmar
Feb 23, 2005

I'M PROGRAMMED TO LOVE THIS CHOCOLATY CAKE... MY CIRCUITS LIGHT UP FOR THAT FUDGY ICING.

IncredibleIgloo posted:

Also, if you are already using IPA I would advise using different resin. Water washable resin has some bad characteristics in regards to how brittle it is and can sometimes have unexpected cracks form after the print. The brittleness of it also makes it harder to print with. An ABS like resin is typically the most forgiving and best for miniatures, if that is what you are printing.

Seconding the unexpected cracks.. I did up a nice little statue from a museum 3D scan in water-washable resin, fully painted etc. Everything was fine for a few months, and then it started visibly cracking in a few spots and now it looks kind of half-exploded.

I only started using water-washable in the first place because I'd moved to the Photon Mono X with the large wash/cure station, and didn't love the idea of having an 8 litre bucket of isopropyl alcohol. I'm coming around on it now though, I got a small flammables cabinet that I can use to store it when not in use. (overkill, I know, but still..)

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Roundboy
Oct 21, 2008

ptier posted:

Ordered mine Wednesday looks to be delivered next Wednesday. We are about to test the "super simple to setup" as I am a complete N00b and wanted a more "plug and play" 3D printing experience. Hopefully I'm not the better idiot.

The P1S has beta release studio software that have some tuned options to use specifically with it : https://github.com/bambulab/BambuStudio/releases

I have an issue where my camera is active but I can;t use it on my local computer, i can only see it via phone app. Looks like a windows 11 / beta /registry issue so far.
The beta software also cant read off the sd card, so i tried printing the scrapper from the menu interface and get an error with AMS. I sliced the model myself and it ran fine later

This thing has a chamber fan, and a icon for the chamber temp, but no temp sensor. Its also pretty loud @ 100% fan so that might need some tweaking, but aside from infil and brim settings, i am using this 100% profile out of the box. The textured PEI plate sticks as expected, but i am seeing an issue several prints in with very very small spots (articulated slug antenna) but i am also using some PLA that has been sitting out a long while.

I intent to test some ABS later today as that is the real pride + joy for me. Multi material prints came out great, but this machine likes to poop out a lot of filament. I'm printing a poop chute next and likely tuning the purge rates as i found on pintables. Painting stuff is -really- tedious and if you go outside the 'lines' its going to cause all kinds of extra swaps and add a ton of time.

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