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I used Ally exclusively and closed it cause I was done with them and opened the SoFi account. Not really trying to game any systems. But now I’m just gonna take my paycheck and walk into the first big bank with a local branch here and just open whatever account with them, fees be damned, and get rid of this SoFi account. E: The stupidest thing is even if I could get my company to split my paycheck into $2000 checks it’ll still take me some days to deposit it all with the low $2000 limit. Boris Galerkin fucked around with this message at 01:03 on Jul 11, 2023 |
# ? Jul 11, 2023 01:00 |
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# ? Jun 9, 2024 18:03 |
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You’re allowed to have more than one bank.
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# ? Jul 11, 2023 01:13 |
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My last job my stock RSUs had a 1 year cliff and for some stupid reason that never made any sense the broker administering the program could only send you the proceeds from your first sale via paper check. So I got a check in the mail for like $35k and Capital One just let me deposit it via the mobile app lol. It felt so dirty at the time but it worked.
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# ? Jul 11, 2023 06:27 |
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You can try calling the bank and saying "hey look, I need to do a big deposit, can you disable the $2000 limit for me please?" I'm not familiar with deposit limits, but withdrawal limits are usually in place to prevent fraud, so if you let them know about a planned transaction in advance, they're generally happy to turn the limits off temporarily. Why would a bank not want to receive large check deposits?
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# ? Jul 12, 2023 00:39 |
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It's a new customer fraud thing.
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# ? Jul 12, 2023 01:19 |
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I posted earlier about RSU and ESPP. I actually start a new job that offers all this, and it's a new think. I wanted to get some input or goon lulz at just situation and get some guidance. I have an appointment with my accountant/financial guy, but I like to get some context and other opinions so when I talk to him I'm more informed. The new job pays slightly more, but it has a ESPP and RSU, so I'm a little pumped to have a chance at more income. First, here's my budget etc: code:
So all that explained, here how my situation is changing:
My goals are 1) to pay down the debt aggressively, and then 2) start saving for my kids college. Looking at the finance prime directive, I'm at the "Pay down moderate interested debt" square. In my case, that's the HELOC @8%. My plan, which I think is a good idea:
Thinking out loud:
I know it's a lot, but I wanted to get my thoughts organized before I spoke to my accountant. Any goon thoughts? I can open my own thread if it's preferred. Super-NintendoUser fucked around with this message at 03:34 on Jul 17, 2023 |
# ? Jul 17, 2023 03:26 |
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From a strategic standpoint you have an absolute poo poo ton of debt, so it makes sense to focus ont hat. Counting your HELOC at 0% because I'm lazy, your debt is eight months of your net pay. I'm not sure I'd count 8% as "moderate" interest debt but my brain has probably been broken by a low interest rate environment. I think your plan generally makes sense, and I agree that you should not attempt to hold your ESPP for 18 months especially since you have an immediate use for that money. Make sure you pay down the credit cards because in some cases the 0% APR promo rate only applies through the window, and if you don't pay down during the 0% window you are on the hook for full-rate interest for the full duration of the window. The calculation of weekly/monthly/annual expenses is weird but you basically got everything denominated in months so that's fine in the end
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# ? Jul 17, 2023 15:24 |
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Thanks for the feedback. For sure, it's a lot of debt. I've never carried that before but I really need to get it sorted. I can clarify the annual/monthly/weekly thing, but basically my net is ~8600/month, and my expenses are about ~6500/month. I have specifically noted the 0% expiration on the CC and I'll just use the HELOC to pay them off before it expires. I only used it as a way to keep some of the interest bearing balance off the HELOC. The CC's with those balances themselves are closed/frozen/not inuse, so there's no risk I'll get other charges on them.
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# ? Jul 17, 2023 16:23 |
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Super-NintendoUser posted:Thanks for the feedback. For sure, it's a lot of debt. I've never carried that before but I really need to get it sorted. I can clarify the annual/monthly/weekly thing, but basically my net is ~8600/month, and my expenses are about ~6500/month. I have specifically noted the 0% expiration on the CC and I'll just use the HELOC to pay them off before it expires. I only used it as a way to keep some of the interest bearing balance off the HELOC. The CC's with those balances themselves are closed/frozen/not inuse, so there's no risk I'll get other charges on them. Those expenses are huge...if you go into a bit of detail people better at this stuff than me can offer advice. Or if you really want to get serious you can start a progress thread and people can really help.
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# ? Jul 17, 2023 16:30 |
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Medullah posted:Those expenses are huge...if you go into a bit of detail people better at this stuff than me can offer advice. Or if you really want to get serious you can start a progress thread and people can really help. I posted a breakdown below but I can provide some clarity:
I don't think from that perspective for a family of 4 in a HCOL area is too extreme, but I'm open to reducing my budget where I can. We already don't have a car payment, and I could probably reduce vacation budget but skiiing is pretty much the only thing we do, so we like to have a lot of it in the winter. Super-NintendoUser fucked around with this message at 17:26 on Jul 17, 2023 |
# ? Jul 17, 2023 17:15 |
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The only thing I'll really add on the debt burden is that you better be drat sure that the root causes were unpredictable one-off events. That's a hell of a lot of money to spend (and it's just the debt load, not true cost). It also sounds like you don't have much of an emergency fund for when the inevitable different unpredictable one off events happen again. I would also focus on building up an e-fund with at least a few months of those savings. I don't think you need to do any kind of extreme budget cuts but you will need to be quite disciplined. There's a balance between budgetary precision and flexibility but I have some concern that 1/3 of your budget is in a handwave category. If you break the budget there, how do you know what caused you to miss? In particular, it's probably advisable to break out discretionary spending money and put a hard cap on that at least. Also, if your wife can work more in the short term, that would help with breathing room.
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# ? Jul 17, 2023 18:15 |
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Make sure you can actually sell the ESPP right when you get it, or else you run into serious risk being unable to offload it in time to cover your 0% card within the time limit. You may be better off putting nothing into the ESPP, or only half of what you planned, and save up the rest for direct CC repayment. You can always start maxing it next year.
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# ? Jul 18, 2023 18:32 |
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Is it normal that after I applied for a mortgage, I'd suddenly start getting a ton of spam text messages and emails? Or do I need to go ask USAA what the gently caress?
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# ? Jul 18, 2023 18:42 |
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Is it normal that after I applied for a mortgage, I'd suddenly start getting a ton of spam text messages and emails? Or do I need to go ask USAA what the gently caress? Both of those things can be true at the same time, and probably are.
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# ? Jul 18, 2023 18:51 |
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Is it normal that after I applied for a mortgage, I'd suddenly start getting a ton of spam text messages and emails? Or do I need to go ask USAA what the gently caress? It's not USAA (or at least not just USAA), it's the credit reporting agencies. quote:Deter trigger leads from the credit bureaus: I sure am glad we don't have the government running the credit reporting agencies and that they're allowed to sell your information to whomever the gently caress they want.
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# ? Jul 18, 2023 19:59 |
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Fantastic. Thanks, too bad it's too late now.
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# ? Jul 18, 2023 20:45 |
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My bank isn’t signed up for it yet (boooo) but for any of y’all whose banks are, have they given you any communication about FedNow? It just launched today.
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# ? Jul 20, 2023 18:47 |
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Badger of Basra posted:My bank isn’t signed up for it yet (boooo) but for any of y’all whose banks are, have they given you any communication about FedNow? It just launched today. I work for a Financial Software company and the groups that would utilize it are super excited about it, we put out an announcement that we'll be supporting it. I don't work directly in the core software but a few people I know that do think it's gonna be huge.
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# ? Jul 20, 2023 19:02 |
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It seems like it would blow up the whole business model of Venmo and CashApp but I’m not sure if I understand the mechanics of it well enough. All the stuff I’ve seen is for banks rather than consumers
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# ? Jul 20, 2023 19:19 |
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Is this why my bank got rid of Pop Money and screwed up my rent payment system?
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# ? Jul 20, 2023 20:18 |
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I know that Big Tech and libertarianism have robbed the public sector of top tier talent, but how is the government still putting up sub-Wix level websites in 2023. The FedNow landing is dire. Edit: https://www.frbservices.org/financial-services/fednow/organizations#fi supposedly Chase has it but I don't see it when I log in
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# ? Jul 21, 2023 03:41 |
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dpkg chopra posted:I know that Big Tech and libertarianism have robbed the public sector of top tier talent, but how is the government still putting up sub-Wix level websites in 2023. The FedNow landing is dire. You say this like it's a bad thing.
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# ? Jul 21, 2023 03:53 |
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I recently sold a mixed collection of taxable holdings to pile into a three-fund portfolio, resetting my cost basis. My Roth IRA is maxed. My employer offers a Roth 401k (I've been funding a trad 401k so far while employed there). Luckily, my taxable holdings are far above what I foresee ever needing to draw down in the next 10-20 years. Is it smart to re-liquidate some of the taxable mutual funds to max a yearly Roth 401k contribution? It'd go into one of their reasonable options, a fidelity total stock market fund with a low ER. The math seems to... math. I've already reset my cost basis, so why not shove 15k into retirement and then pay no taxes when it's worth like 150k in 30 years? Just wondering if anyone sees any pitfalls here
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# ? Jul 21, 2023 04:03 |
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Are you talking about staeting a mega backdoor? Yes you should do that if you can.
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# ? Jul 21, 2023 04:07 |
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SlapActionJackson posted:Are you talking about staeting a mega backdoor? Yes you should do that if you can. e: nvm. yes i guess this is kinda what i'm angling for e2: So, my plan when I asked that question was I was going to just contribute directly to a Roth 401k. Is the point of the "mega back door" that you can only contribute the additional after-tax 43k to specifically a trad 401k before rolling it over to the roth ira/401k? Meaning, it's not an option to contribute beyond the 22500 individual limit by contributing directly to a roth 401k? if so, how dumb! hobbez fucked around with this message at 04:37 on Jul 21, 2023 |
# ? Jul 21, 2023 04:19 |
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Traditional 401K and Roth 401k share a contribution limit, just like trad/Roth IRA. The sum of 401k contributions to the two can't exceed $22,500. It's not an option to contribute beyond the individual limit by contributing directly to a Roth 401k. The "mega back door" works around that by making non-deductible after-tax (but not Roth!) contributions, then rolling it over to the Roth. This gives you access to the combined limit of $66,000, which needs to fit your regular/Roth contribution + employer match + mega backdoor money. Your 401k plan needs to be compatible for this to work at all, but those that are tend to allow you to auto-convert after-tax contributions to Roth, automating that part of the process. They tend to not have guardrails on setting up amounts, so be sure to math it all out in advance and stay within the limits. hobbez posted:if so, how dumb! Welcome to the US tax code.
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# ? Jul 21, 2023 14:41 |
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On my local bank account’s website, if I want to transfer money out of it into another account I need to “link” which it does the old fashioned way where I paste in my other bank’s routing number and account number and then it deposits and withdraws 2 sub-$1 amounts that I need to verify. On my SoFi account, they offer a service that they say can connect directly to my local bank account and then I can transfer money from the local bank into SoFi through the SoFi website directly. Am I crazy in thinking that it should be impossible to move money out of the local bank account from the SoFi website because this sounds insane. Or is that just the norm nowadays?
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# ? Jul 21, 2023 21:43 |
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There's some services that seem to involve you handing over your login information so they can log in on your behalf. Thus far I've been able to avoid using any of them, which is good because the mere concept terrifies me. But the banks love them because they're easy to integrate: the app is just interacting with their standard web UI and scraping the info it needs.
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# ? Jul 21, 2023 22:14 |
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Boris Galerkin posted:they offer a service that they say can connect directly to my local bank account and then I can transfer money from the local bank into SoFi through the SoFi website directly. That functionality is the norm. This service will be through an aggregator like Plaid and actually represents an industry step in the right direction on security and authentication. If your local bank is tech-competent you will see a federated login for them (i.e. Plaid never gets your credentials) and Plaid/SoFi just get an access token that lets them do the withdrawals.
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# ? Jul 21, 2023 22:53 |
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I've applied to a couple of places to get a mortgage, and both have said basically "your last two years of tax returns show next to no income, so no loan for you." This is of course because I started a small business whose somewhat capital-intensive job was to make this videogame, which only happened earlier this year, so my expenses have been high and my income has been just from selling investments. Now that the game's on the market, my income is up a bit, but that's only in 2023, too recent to really count. Am I likely to be unable to get a margin or bridge loan, too? By my understanding, those are both backed by assets (investments and real estate, respectively), but I don't know what factors the loan companies consider when deciding whether to accept an application. My credit score is excellent and my savings are good, I just don't have any recent income history.
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# ? Jul 22, 2023 00:40 |
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Reasonable rate loans require evidence of the ability of income to repay (doesn't matter if you have liquid assets to cover). So can you get a loan? Probably. Can you get a loan at a rate you should accept? Maybe not. In fact probably not. Investment income being counted as income for a mortgage is usually like a 2-3 tax returns with consistency thing.
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# ? Jul 22, 2023 00:45 |
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Motronic posted:Reasonable rate loans require evidence of the ability of income to repay (doesn't matter if you have liquid assets to cover). So can you get a loan? Probably. Can you get a loan at a rate you should accept? Maybe not. In fact probably not. My plan is to repay the loan basically as soon as my current residence is sold, so hopefully the rate won't matter too much. But if they care about my documented income for the asset-backed loans as well (which you're saying they probably will), then I may not even get the loan. Blast. I have been living off of savings (i.e. selling investments for cash) for the past ~3 years, however the people reviewing my loan applications didn't like what they saw, presumably due to the business expenses. I didn't enquire too closely into exactly how they make their decisions, since I doubt I'll be able to argue them around to a more favorable-to-me viewpoint.
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# ? Jul 22, 2023 00:53 |
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:My plan is to repay the loan basically as soon as my current residence is sold, so hopefully the rate won't matter too much. But if they care about my documented income for the asset-backed loans as well (which you're saying they probably will), then I may not even get the loan. Blast. Oh, that's totally different. You don't need a conforming loan at all then. I'm not versed in bridges and loan products like that but it sounds like that's what you should focus on.
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# ? Jul 22, 2023 01:00 |
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I hope this is the right thread. I'm as financially illiterate as you can get. I'm the "non-spouse beneficiary of a deceased retiree." I have two confusing options for how I can receive the benefit. "1. I instruct TRS to roll over all of the eligible amount of my benefit to a traditional IRA or a Roth IRA as indicated in Part II that will be treated as an inherited IRA. 2. [option 2 is irrelevant because I am not a spouse of the deceased] 3. I do not want to roll over any part of the eligible amount of my benefit. Please pay the entire amount to me. I understand that 20% of the taxable amount of my distribution will be withheld for federal income tax." Gross pay: 5000 Taxable portion of lump sum payment: 1895.49 Non-taxable portion of lump sum payment: 3104.51 Amount eligible for rollover: 5000 Is it stupid to just eat the $379 and take the lump sum payment? I do not have an IRA. I am in the process of starting a new job that has its own retirement system and all of the associated headaches. I am setting up an estate sale. I have a lot on my plate and basically zero financial IQ. I'm willing to lose $379 just to get this off my docket, but is there something I'm missing? I know I'm behind the curve on this stuff and should probably have an IRA but I would like to start this new job with as clean a slate as possible and then start working on getting less stupid.
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# ? Jul 24, 2023 21:24 |
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Saving it for an IRA makes more sense if you don't think you'll need the money before you retire. But you would need to set up the IRA. That's not a huge deal if you already have an account with a company like Vanguard or Fidelity or something, but if you're already short on time/energy, or if you think that $5k will come in handy before you retire, then just take the lump sum.
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# ? Jul 24, 2023 21:41 |
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You still are required to take RMDs on inherited IRAs. However, I would submit that a process that will take less than an hour of your time is worth 380 in taxes plus whatever additional income you’ll get from keeping the IRA invested as you take RMDs. Edit: to be perfectly clear the poster above me is wrong in that you will access some of the money immediately. You can decide whether to spread RMDs over a decade or your or the prior account holder’s predicted lifespan. KYOON GRIFFEY JR fucked around with this message at 22:05 on Jul 24, 2023 |
# ? Jul 24, 2023 22:02 |
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Inherited IRAs have distribution requirements. You can't just mix the inherited money with your own IRA assets and save it all until your own retirement. Given the modest amount of money at stake here, I would absolutely just take the lump-sum distribution and save the headache.
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# ? Jul 24, 2023 22:02 |
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:or your or the prior account holder’s predicted lifespan. That would fall under "[option 2 is irrelevant because I am not a spouse of the deceased]" I believe.
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# ? Jul 24, 2023 23:57 |
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Lester Shy posted:
Please be aware that 20% is WITHHELD for taxes and does not mean that your taxes DUE on this distribution is 20%. You are taxed on this at your full marginal rate, ie., if you make very little and it all falls in the 12% bracket, it's taxed at 12%, but if you get a fat paycheck every week, then it could be taxed at 32% if that's your tax bracket. So if your marginal rate is higher than 20%, make sure you have the money next April to pay the difference with your tax return.
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# ? Jul 25, 2023 02:29 |
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# ? Jun 9, 2024 18:03 |
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It appears I have stalled for too long and just got a letter from a debt collection company over a $7k medical debt we owe the hospital. I fully intend to pay it but I can’t pay it right now. I’ve heard horror stories about debt collection, what is this going to look like for me? Ideally I’d like to call them and give them a timeframe or explain the situation or set up a monthly payment or something but I’m guessing there are many different varieties or debt collectors and not all of them will be particularly receptive. I believe this one is MediCredit? I know I have a few options, but I don’t know what I should do first.
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# ? Jul 26, 2023 04:24 |