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Cut the breaker, shear off what you can, stick half a potato in the socket and unscrew.
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Jul 27, 2023 02:11
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Dr. Lunchables posted:Cut the breaker, shear off what you can, stick half a potato in the socket and unscrew. Yeah, this was plan A, but I wanted to make sure there wasn't a more clever and less messy solution. I'll give Rexxed's idea a try first. I have some Kevlar gloves that I can put over my leather work gloves, should keep me reasonably safe from the glass as long as I don’t lose too much dexterity. The switch is currently taped in the off position, and of course, the breakers will be cut when I attempt the repair.
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Jul 27, 2023 03:32
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Danhenge posted:It sounds fun to me if I was independently wealthy. And yeah, there are places they make new wavy glass, like this place in Baltimore: https://agwglass.com/
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Jul 27, 2023 04:37
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Discussion Quorum posted:Yeah, this was plan A, but I wanted to make sure there wasn't a more clever and less messy solution. I'll give Rexxed's idea a try first. I have some Kevlar gloves that I can put over my leather work gloves, should keep me reasonably safe from the glass as long as I don’t lose too much dexterity. Wear safety glasses. Goggles would be better.
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Jul 27, 2023 13:57
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I have a sliding window that has a cracked pane in each of the sections I'm having repaired. Its a 40 year old double pane aluminum frame and the glass sections are like 28"x58" each. They had grids and we are skipping the grids this time. I've already got one bid for like 700 bucks to fix them which seems reasonable but I've never done anything with windows so I'm not sure if there is anything I need to make sure they're doing or that I want to be asking for. Any advice?
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Jul 27, 2023 18:48
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Discussion Quorum posted:Yeah, this was plan A, but I wanted to make sure there wasn't a more clever and less messy solution. I'll give Rexxed's idea a try first. I have some Kevlar gloves that I can put over my leather work gloves, should keep me reasonably safe from the glass as long as I don’t lose too much dexterity. I've had to do exactly what you're doing, before, and this is what worked for me: First, snap off all the glass poo poo while holding a trash receptacle right under it, wearing very good eye protection, don't breathe in any glass dust, etc. Second, use needle nose pilers to pry away at one spot of the metal base of the bulb. The metal is extremely thin and bends easily. The aim is to work one side of the pilers jaw deep into the socket so you can grip the metal very firmly. Third, optionally if you own two pairs of needle nose, is to do the same thing on the opposite side of the base. This will help with the next step. Last: gripping firmly with the pilers (in two places if possible), twist out the base of the bulb. This assumes the socket is actually screwed to something so it doesn't just also twist. Ugh. If you have to you can grip it with a gloved hand. You have three hands, right? If this doesn't work, you can basically use strong pliers to rip and tear the base of the bulb out of the fixture. It sucks, but the metal is not very hard to twist and bend and rip at and after holding your arms above your head achingly for half an hour it'll eventually come out.
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Jul 27, 2023 19:55
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Teabag Dome Scandal posted:I have a sliding window that has a cracked pane in each of the sections I'm having repaired. Its a 40 year old double pane aluminum frame and the glass sections are like 28"x58" each. They had grids and we are skipping the grids this time. I've already got one bid for like 700 bucks to fix them which seems reasonable but I've never done anything with windows so I'm not sure if there is anything I need to make sure they're doing or that I want to be asking for. Any advice? Are they just replacing the glass? If so, did you ask what it would be to just replace it entirely?
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Jul 27, 2023 22:53
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devicenull posted:Are they just replacing the glass? If so, did you ask what it would be to just replace it entirely? They are just replacing the two panes of glass, one on each side. Its a huge window so I assumed replacing it would be substantially more and didn't bother asking. Edit: just asked and he said 1100-1400 depending on the brand which is double just to replace the glass. His estimate before coming out to measure based on my loose specs was pretty close to his actual quote. Teabag Dome Scandal fucked around with this message at 23:36 on Jul 27, 2023 |
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Jul 27, 2023 23:14
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Teabag Dome Scandal posted:They are just replacing the two panes of glass, one on each side. Its a huge window so I assumed replacing it would be substantially more and didn't bother asking. Ah that's a pretty big increase. If they're just doing the glass I don't think there's too many questions to ask. I'd ask what happens if you get condensation between the panes (I don't think they can field seal them with nitrogen or whatever the manufacturer uses). If the window doesn't open smoothly or has damage other then the glass, I'd probably lean towards replacing it.
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Jul 28, 2023 00:46
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devicenull posted:Ah that's a pretty big increase. If they're just doing the glass I don't think there's too many questions to ask. I'd ask what happens if you get condensation between the panes (I don't think they can field seal them with nitrogen or whatever the manufacturer uses). We had some shrubs about 10 feet away light up and either the heat from that or the water from the fire dept caused the cracks. Other than that and the plastic trim melting in some spots the window frames are fine. I'll ask about condensation. Thanks!
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Jul 28, 2023 01:23
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I have a GE washer, model GTWN4250D1WS that's about 9 years old. For the past month or 2 if we wash two consecutive loads, there will be standing water in the tub on the second load only. A single load is fine, and if we do an extra spin cycle after the second wash, either as part of an automated routine (2nd spin option) or manually after the second wash cycle finishes, it will drain all the water away. If it were happening on every load I would assume that either the spin cycle is ending quicker than necessary to get all the water out. It doesn't seem to matter if we pile in clothes to stuff the washer full or if we only fill it half way. We do usually use the Auto-sense option to let the machine determine how large the amount of clothes is, but we've been doing that from the start and this issue only just started.
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Jul 28, 2023 03:41
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CzarChasm posted:I have a GE washer, model GTWN4250D1WS that's about 9 years old. For the past month or 2 if we wash two consecutive loads, there will be standing water in the tub on the second load only. A single load is fine, and if we do an extra spin cycle after the second wash, either as part of an automated routine (2nd spin option) or manually after the second wash cycle finishes, it will drain all the water away. If it were happening on every load I would assume that either the spin cycle is ending quicker than necessary to get all the water out. It doesn't seem to matter if we pile in clothes to stuff the washer full or if we only fill it half way. We do usually use the Auto-sense option to let the machine determine how large the amount of clothes is, but we've been doing that from the start and this issue only just started. I'm not a pro, but it sounds like your pump or board may be going bad. This is normally unrelated to the spin cycle, it sounds like the pump just isn't pulling the water out, especially if there's a LOT in there (pooling into the tub at all). I would lean toward the pump first, as it's usually cheaper and more likely the culprit. Can get one for 45-65 off of Amazon (Part model pulled here). I would start there as, to me, it sounds like your pump may be going. If you go much beyond that, it may be time to look at replacing the entire washer as ECBs start running you 150+.
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Jul 29, 2023 19:26
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Separate post, but is there a good wax/sealant for tile and grout that is food safe? Our island was done with 12x12 tile, and the grout sealant is starting to come loose, and I was wondering if there was good all-around sealant that would cover both.
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Jul 29, 2023 19:27
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Might be worth checking hoses and possible filters for partial clogs too. Hopefully there’s some quick connect hose clamps to make it easy to work on.
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Jul 30, 2023 04:10
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Man, gently caress nailed tongue & groove floorboards. Took over an hour and I got a single one out (at the edge of the room ofc) and I still ended gouging the poo poo out of it getting the inch long nails out that are buried. No wonder every professional I spoke to said they were simply impossible to remove without chopping them up. Now I got to decide do I: chop the tongue off, and chop crossways so I can just lift up the sections I care about? Lift up whole long boards with the tongue removed so at least you won't be able to see obvious cuts? For context I'm getting mechanical ventilation pipes routed through the house via the (concerted bedroom) attic floor.
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Jul 30, 2023 19:10
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I'm confused. What kind of cuts do you need to make?
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Jul 30, 2023 19:27
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 The idea is that ducts need to run across the width of the attic floor, so all the area between the two lines needs to be lifted up. You can't really see in that photo but all the boards are like 2m long.
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Jul 30, 2023 19:29
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Is there a reasons you aren't opening the ceiling below? That's usually considered the easier method. I typically only access floor framing from above if I'm planning to replace the entire floor anyways. If you need to continue on your current path, I would recommend stripping most of the flooring from the room. Start by removing the baseboards then work your way across.
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Jul 30, 2023 19:48
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Sounds like a job for flexible ducts and fish tape.
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Jul 30, 2023 20:16
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gonadic io posted:Man, gently caress nailed tongue & groove floorboards. Took over an hour and I got a single one out (at the edge of the room ofc) and I still ended gouging the poo poo out of it getting the inch long nails out that are buried. So you just got the hardest one up (the one I would have cut the tongue off of in an effort to maybe be able to salvage it) and now you want to change methods? Also, everything Tezer said.
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Jul 30, 2023 20:26
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I guess I'll review the correspondence with the ventilation company or just ask them why they're going down and not up. The unit is being installed in the attic but the attic floorboards should still be accessible from the ceiling below. But it's chopping up the ceiling of 4 rooms vs the floor of one. Idk.
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Jul 30, 2023 20:39
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Here's what it looks like now for reference, and a shot of the profile (that's only on one side because the is the board at the edge so was cut to fit).  This house is like, a carpenter's passion project except 30 years and a real bad owner later, and everything is bespoke hard wood and hand made, and also impossible to do anything with and very fiddly. E: and that carpenter is in fact still around, will advise me, and complain that anything I want to do whatsoever is entirely unnecessary. gonadic io fucked around with this message at 21:44 on Jul 30, 2023 |
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Jul 30, 2023 20:55
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If I were the contractor who is installing a unit but not responsible for opening the space for trunks/vents I too would tell you the pull up the tongue and groove floor, because clearly that's the easiest way for me to install my stuff. Not having to work from ladders in multiple rooms, etc for the large pieces. But it's time to push back on that since you're the one doing this work. If the choice is between this and patching drywall ceilings it's pretty obviously to patch drywall ceilings unless there are some serious reasons not to, like having to move a grand piano out of one of the rooms first.
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Jul 30, 2023 21:23
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Have you considered drilling the nail heads instead of pulling the nails? I can't imagine they're hardened.
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Jul 30, 2023 21:46
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Once the first board is up it's not necessary anymore. You get under the next board with a flat bar and everything comes up, then you remove the nails from the board.
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Jul 30, 2023 21:50
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Make sure you number those as they come up, or you're going to have a big room-sized puzzle
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Jul 30, 2023 22:34
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Found a loose fence post (cedar?), and I'm guessing it has termites? Anyone have tips for getting rid of them and reinforcing the post? No clue what this post is actually embedded in, it was an old fence when we bought the house several years ago. Other than that, the pickets and other posts seem ok. The fence as a whole probably has a few years left - but not so many where it makes sense to replace a single post without redoing the whole thing.
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Jul 31, 2023 15:20
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Is there something not shown in the picture that indicated termites rather than a rotten fence post?esquilax posted:Anyone have tips for getting rid of them and reinforcing the post? No clue what this post is actually embedded in That's going to make any specific advice pretty impossible.
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Jul 31, 2023 15:25
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On the plus side you can just start digging with a hand trowel until you either hit concrete or don't, to find out.
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Jul 31, 2023 15:28
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Motronic posted:Is there something not shown in the picture that indicated termites rather than a rotten fence post? I assumed the white residue indicated bug damage / termite tube? I'm not familiar with rot other than the normal brown soft stuff. What would be the steps if it's concrete versus just compacted soil?
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Jul 31, 2023 15:29
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I can't see from the photo, is that the actual post that's half gone or just a panel upright? Rotten posts are from wood sitting in water are unfixable. You simply have to replace them. If there's concrete it's a pain but if it's dirt or gravel that's easier to re-dig for new posts.
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Jul 31, 2023 15:36
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gonadic io posted:I can't see from the photo, is that the actual post that's half gone or just a panel upright? That's the actual post, the board to the right is a picket on the fence panel. In general, about how deep would I have to dig to find if it's concrete? The post itself is just over 6' tall.
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Jul 31, 2023 15:53
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The short concrete walkway that leads from my front door to the driveway has worn down enough for the coarse aggregate to be poking up through the surface. I'd like to resurface it. Is epoxy or concrete resurfacer the better option?
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Jul 31, 2023 17:16
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Got a question about foundation repair. I have, what appears to be, a slab sitting on concrete blocks. My dad painted the blocks 15 years ago, so now the mortar is crumbling. He also, for reasons beyond my understanding, filled in some gaps with spray foam. Question is, do you think digging out the mortar and replacing it is a DIY type thing or do I really need to call in the pros? We don't have any sagging or cracking or anything else that's obviously concerning, so I've been leaning toward the DIY option.  
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Jul 31, 2023 17:25
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SamsCola posted:Got a question about foundation repair. I have, what appears to be, a slab sitting on concrete blocks. My dad painted the blocks 15 years ago, so now the mortar is crumbling. He also, for reasons beyond my understanding, filled in some gaps with spray foam. You can totally do that yourself but I would just caulk it and repaint instead of digging out old mortar and replacing with new mortar. The Shermax urethanized caulk from Sherwin Williams is great-I caulked a fuckton of that stuff on a concrete block building ~5 years ago and painted and it still looks great. Since it is raw masonry you may need to treat/prime it with something first to prevent chalking and help with adhesion. Or you can use their Loxon caulk which is made for concrete/masonry but its stupid expensive. There's also caulking that is sanded and grey to look like mortar, but some don't paint well if you intend to paint it. There may be other caulks that will work just as well. Tell the people at SW what you're trying to do-they're usually fairly knowledgeable.
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Jul 31, 2023 17:56
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esquilax posted:In general, about how deep would I have to dig to find if it's concrete? The post itself is just over 6' tall. There's no telling. If you live somewhere with a frost line it might be at the surface, just under the pebbles. Or maybe it's 3 feet in the ground with a bag of concrete in the bottom of the hole but nowhere else. Repairing this begins with "start digging".
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Jul 31, 2023 18:06
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Worst case you accidentally dig out the whole post and are halfway done
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Jul 31, 2023 18:12
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esquilax posted:Other than that, the pickets and other posts seem ok. The fence as a whole probably has a few years left - but not so many where it makes sense to replace a single post without redoing the whole thing.
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Jul 31, 2023 18:19
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:You can totally do that yourself but I would just caulk it and repaint instead of digging out old mortar and replacing with new mortar. The Shermax urethanized caulk from Sherwin Williams is great-I caulked a fuckton of that stuff on a concrete block building ~5 years ago and painted and it still looks great. Since it is raw masonry you may need to treat/prime it with something first to prevent chalking and help with adhesion. Or you can use their Loxon caulk which is made for concrete/masonry but its stupid expensive. There's also caulking that is sanded and grey to look like mortar, but some don't paint well if you intend to paint it. There may be other caulks that will work just as well. Tell the people at SW what you're trying to do-they're usually fairly knowledgeable. Wow, really? I assumed I would need something more structural.
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Jul 31, 2023 19:03
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SamsCola posted:Wow, really? I assumed I would need something more structural.
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Jul 31, 2023 19:39
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