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Soul Dentist
Mar 17, 2009
Carve your first authentic jack-o'-lantern

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SubG
Aug 19, 2004

It's a hard world for little things.
When in doubt, kimchi.

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


Turnip greens are A+ too. Idk if there are different varieties grown for roots and greens tho.

effika
Jun 19, 2005
Birds do not want you to know any more than you already do.
Roast turnips. They get very tasty.

CommonShore
Jun 6, 2014

A true renaissance man


Kaiser Schnitzel posted:

Turnip greens are A+ too. Idk if there are different varieties grown for roots and greens tho.

bok choy

B33rChiller
Aug 18, 2011




Dang, I'm growing baby goldfish in a patio container, and didn't realise it until today. There's a little pan around of some of my plant based gardening at the end too.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vX8FC2BMkcc

Elmon
Aug 20, 2013

Last year dear chewed through my plastic fencing with my beds on the side of the house so I decided to be a bit more serious with the garden setup this year. Got some chickens and y’all raised beds.

Chad Sexington
May 26, 2005

I think he made a beautiful post and did a great job and he is good.
Came back from vacation to a decent haul. Three jars of tomatoes already so far this year. Amish paste tomatoes are crushing. Honeynut butternut squash coming in force.



Any tips for telling when watermelon is ripe? Chou chehs are supposed to be pretty small so it's hard to judge.

Dr_0ctag0n
Apr 25, 2015


The whole human race
sentenced
to
burn
Not sure about that melon in particular but you can usually tell when a watermelon is ripe by thumping it with your finger. If it's more of a "thwok" sound like it's a solid it's not ripe but if you hear more of a 'hollow' "thump" sound they're generally ripe.

That's how my grandfather's jubilee watermelons always worked. Or you could wait until the deer and coyotes start busting them open, they seem to know exactly when they're ripe lol.

Soul Dentist
Mar 17, 2009
Apparently the real test is to check where it's resting against the ground. When it's ripe it'll turn from cream to a darker yellow. Lol about that hanging melon though

Chad Sexington
May 26, 2005

I think he made a beautiful post and did a great job and he is good.

Soul Dentist posted:

Apparently the real test is to check where it's resting against the ground. When it's ripe it'll turn from cream to a darker yellow. Lol about that hanging melon though

I played myself with this trellis

Discussion Quorum
Dec 5, 2002
Armchair Philistine
I hate myself, therefore I shall grow tomatoes again.

I've twice tried to grow them, and twice the same thing happened: they grew really well, and right around the time they set fruit, the leaves and branches started to die from the bottom up. I never could match what was happening directly to any pictures online, so I don't really know what was happening other than it was some sort of blight. Two different varieties, clean new containers each time, fresh soil each time. I swore off tomatoes as being more trouble than they're worth. Never again!

Yesterday, I took my four-year-old to the garden center and he decided he wanted to grow tomatoes, because he just ate some of my dad's and loved them. It's a bit late for fall tomatoes here, but we regularly see 80s into November, so an early variety tolerant of cool temperatures (I got Glacier) should do OK if I can manage to not kill it otherwise :argh:

Bismack Billabongo
Oct 9, 2012

New Love Glow
That usually happens to mine but by the time the little arms at the bottom are dying the stuff up top is far enough along that it doesn’t matter. I always just assumed that is what happens with tomatoes lol. I guess your case is more extreme than mine

Arsenic Lupin
Apr 12, 2012

This particularly rapid💨 unintelligible 😖patter💁 isn't generally heard🧏‍♂️, and if it is🤔, it doesn't matter💁.


Jhet posted:

Look up the knot for it. I have to look it up every year, but it allows you to take off as many as you want at a time and leave the rest alone. You should not puncture the pepper to dry in 95% of the country because it’s not New Mexico and there’s too much water in the air and it will probably rot/mold because you just introduced microbes inside the fruit when you put the needle through.
I believe you. However, it's weird that this is exactly how I dried cayennes in Indiana as a child, and they didn't mold. Anecdotes aren't data, I guess. We hung ours inside rather than outside, the way you do with herb stems (but tie a paper bag around them first!)

About tomatoes in cold areas (not Discussion Forum's problem, obvs), I bought a pop-up tomato accelerator from gardeners.com in desperation. I don't have room for a greenhouse or a hoop tunnel. To my relief and surprise, the sucker works well. I can put a hand into it and it is very obviously hotter than the outside world; furthermore, the plant is the most exuberant I've raised in this climate. I'll be buying more next year for peppers and more tomatoes.

Arsenic Lupin fucked around with this message at 17:33 on Jul 31, 2023

JoshGuitar
Oct 25, 2005

Chad Sexington posted:

Came back from vacation to a decent haul. Three jars of tomatoes already so far this year. Amish paste tomatoes are crushing. Honeynut butternut squash coming in force.



Are you eating the butternuts as summer squash? You'll get better storage life out of winter squash if you let it completely mature and ripen on the vine. Some people even wait til the vines completely die back before harvesting any.

PokeJoe
Aug 24, 2004

hail cgatan


Chad Sexington posted:

Came back from vacation to a decent haul. Three jars of tomatoes already so far this year. Amish paste tomatoes are crushing. Honeynut butternut squash coming in force.



Any tips for telling when watermelon is ripe? Chou chehs are supposed to be pretty small so it's hard to judge.



you want to look at the tendril nearest the melon.



when it dies off the melon is ready

quote:

A watermelon vine has curly tendrils on it. Find the one that's closest to a ripening watermelon fruit. That tendril gives excellent clues for when a watermelon is ripe. When the melon is small and developing, the tendril is green and pliable. As the watermelon ripens, the tendril starts to lose its green color, becoming brown. When the watermelon is fully ripe, the tendril is brown and dry. A fully ripe watermelon with brown tendril will keep on the vine up to two weeks as long as no heavy rainfall occurs, which causes ripe melons to split open

Arsenic Lupin
Apr 12, 2012

This particularly rapid💨 unintelligible 😖patter💁 isn't generally heard🧏‍♂️, and if it is🤔, it doesn't matter💁.


A bit off-topic: does anybody know where to buy a well-made Japanese shishi odoshi (deer-scaring fountain), the kind that has a bamboo arm that fills, tips down, and falls back to hit some external object with a solid clunk? Google is worthless for shopping nowadays, and the stuff I see on Ebay and Etsy hasn't looked sturdy or even functional. This would be used with an electric pump, not in a stream.

Chad Sexington
May 26, 2005

I think he made a beautiful post and did a great job and he is good.

Discussion Quorum posted:

I hate myself, therefore I shall grow tomatoes again.

I've twice tried to grow them, and twice the same thing happened: they grew really well, and right around the time they set fruit, the leaves and branches started to die from the bottom up. I never could match what was happening directly to any pictures online, so I don't really know what was happening other than it was some sort of blight. Two different varieties, clean new containers each time, fresh soil each time. I swore off tomatoes as being more trouble than they're worth. Never again!

Yesterday, I took my four-year-old to the garden center and he decided he wanted to grow tomatoes, because he just ate some of my dad's and loved them. It's a bit late for fall tomatoes here, but we regularly see 80s into November, so an early variety tolerant of cool temperatures (I got Glacier) should do OK if I can manage to not kill it otherwise :argh:

I posted a page or two ago with a pic of my perennial blight problem. Happens to me with potted plants as well as those in beds, even with solid pruning when spots show up. Usually the fruit outgrows the blight though.

JoshGuitar posted:

Are you eating the butternuts as summer squash? You'll get better storage life out of winter squash if you let it completely mature and ripen on the vine. Some people even wait til the vines completely die back before harvesting any.

I wanted to harvest some just to make sure I got a few because though powdery mildew has not appeared yet, it's hosed up my squash in the past.

PokeJoe posted:

you want to look at the tendril nearest the melon.



when it dies off the melon is ready

Thanks for this!

Feliday Melody
May 8, 2021

So, the thistle I've been trying to identify all summer. I finally got some pictures of fully grown ones.







I checked the wiki page for Swedish thistles and nothing matches those soft edged/round leaves.

mischief
Jun 3, 2003

Chad Sexington posted:

I played myself with this trellis

Just stick it in an old sock or hose or something and tie that up to the trellis

effika
Jun 19, 2005
Birds do not want you to know any more than you already do.
Propagated some delicious mint cuttings from a friend and have now potted them up. These have about 2 inches of roots, plus I picked a few more leaves off and buried the stems in case that works better for them. We'll see if any survive! Mint is unkillable, right?

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

If you can figure out how to kill mint some ag school is going to want to study your technique so they can apply it to general pest management control.

mischief
Jun 3, 2003

My wife has a big pot of spearmint (I think it is) on the driveway that is looking pretty rough.

It'll be back in the spring, but she's come pretty close to putting one down.

Discussion Quorum
Dec 5, 2002
Armchair Philistine
As an experiment, I potted some mint cuttings into some lovely cheap "compost" I got, which was pretty much just lightly-rotted mulch that immediately compacted into a solid block. It didn't grow one bit over six months and was kinda yellowish, and got pretty crispy a few times, but it's still alive. I'll be repotting it soon - I think it has earned a reprieve.

GlyphGryph
Jun 23, 2013

Down came the glitches and burned us in ditches and we slept after eating our dead.
So, still planning my first beginner garden out...

Right now the plan is for milkweed for the sunny areas, dogbane for the partial shade areas, and wine caps for the full shade areas (at least until I'm out of wood chips). All of them seem "easy" to take care of, I think? That and trying to get a good clover and grass mix for the full sun areas of the "lawn" that are currently just covered in woodchips.

For veggies/fruits, think I'm just gonna go with just scattering around whatever scenes my son decides on and see how it goes, no actual effort lol.

When do I actually plant this stuff? Late fall so they are ready to go in spring? Spring?

GlyphGryph fucked around with this message at 17:03 on Aug 1, 2023

mischief
Jun 3, 2003

Look up your local ag extension, they'll have really specific information.

Otherwise just figure out which zone you're in and there are tons of planting calendars available online. It sounds like a pretty impulsive fun first shot at it, I wouldn't stress too much.
My first garden was like 90 degree perfect square foot gardening with neurotic precision and it can get to be a little much. I think your idea sounds fun

Jhet
Jun 3, 2013
Pretty sure you can just take the dry milkweed pods and scatter them in the fall when they’d be flying around naturally. Wine caps are something I’d do in spring when it’s nice and wet and cool. Dogbane I had to look up. You might get away with doing the wine caps in Sept in the PNW, but they’ll do better if you start them in spring here too.

Ag extension is going to be great for veggie planning or even just asking at your local non-box store nursery is a good idea.

GlyphGryph
Jun 23, 2013

Down came the glitches and burned us in ditches and we slept after eating our dead.
The wine caps will (apparently, from what I'm reading) leave me with some pretty nice soil to work with in future years for more serious gardening ambitions, right?

mischief posted:

Otherwise just figure out which zone you're in and there are tons of planting calendars available online.

Thank you for the "planting calendar" search term! None of them seem to have any info on the plants I'm growing though so I guess I'll have to look them up individually.

Chernobyl Princess
Jul 31, 2009

It has long been an axiom of mine that the little things are infinitely the most important.

:siren:thunderdome winner:siren:



We got sixteen pounds of potatoes

I am very pleased with this number of potatoes

Chad Sexington
May 26, 2005

I think he made a beautiful post and did a great job and he is good.

Chernobyl Princess posted:



We got sixteen pounds of potatoes

I am very pleased with this number of potatoes

Daaaamn, share your potato strat.

My experience has always been like... plant two potatoes, harvest three potatoes.

Shifty Pony
Dec 28, 2004

Up ta somethin'


I planted no potatoes and got six potatoes. Infinite potato returns!

i think a squirrel took a chunk of russet out of the compost bin before I moved in

MasterBuilder
Sep 30, 2008
Oven Wrangler
Woke up to find my habanero plant bent over at its base. I initially thought a squirrel had knocked it over but looking at the base it looks bad. Is this hosed? I'd be a bit annoyed since it just put out flowers.

trilobite terror
Oct 20, 2007
BUT MY LIVELIHOOD DEPENDS ON THE FORUMS!

MasterBuilder posted:

Woke up to find my habanero plant bent over at its base. I initially thought a squirrel had knocked it over but looking at the base it looks bad. Is this hosed? I'd be a bit annoyed since it just put out flowers.


looks a bit bad/damaged, yes. Looks like it may rot, but I can’t tell if it’s still got viable connection to the roots.

You could try propping it up with a stick/stake. I might try to air-layer a new root base above the injury point just to be safe.

You could cut a smaller pot and put it on top of the current pot, or fashion a tube out of plastic/screen mesh/etc and wire, then fill it with dirt and water it. Let new roots grow in over a couple of weeks and then detach the old base

Flipperwaldt
Nov 11, 2011

Won't somebody think of the starving hamsters in China?



That looks like some sort of watering device on the left? Is it keeping the soil this pissing wet 24/7?

mischief
Jun 3, 2003

That stem looks super unhappy.

Jhet
Jun 3, 2013

MasterBuilder posted:

Woke up to find my habanero plant bent over at its base. I initially thought a squirrel had knocked it over but looking at the base it looks bad. Is this hosed? I'd be a bit annoyed since it just put out flowers.


Yeah, it looks like it's too wet and that it's been too wet a lot. Leave it to dry out a lot more between watering and see if it can manage to hang on. It shouldn't need support normally, but I might consider a small stake to help with it now. I normally water my container peppers after 2-3 days outside in full sun. They do not need to get soaked every day.

MasterBuilder
Sep 30, 2008
Oven Wrangler

Flipperwaldt posted:

That looks like some sort of watering device on the left? Is it keeping the soil this pissing wet 24/7?

That was my alternative to a stake to prop it upright. It was between that and an old paint stir stick.

I thought I was being cautious with watering but maybe after I sized up the pot I should have been more judicious.

Chernobyl Princess
Jul 31, 2009

It has long been an axiom of mine that the little things are infinitely the most important.

:siren:thunderdome winner:siren:

Chad Sexington posted:

Daaaamn, share your potato strat.

My experience has always been like... plant two potatoes, harvest three potatoes.

It's my first year doing taters so my strategy was "I dunno let's see if this works" and now I'm going to have a completely unearned confidence for next time I do potatoes.

It's just been a really good year for nightshades generally where I'm at along the Delaware river. My cherry tomatoes have also been going like gangbusters all summer with 0 input from me except for occasional waterings when it goes too long without rain and pulling a weed or two. So I'm just going to call this luck and hope a few of these will make decent seed potatoes for next planting.

you ate my cat
Jul 1, 2007

Motronic posted:

If you can figure out how to kill mint some ag school is going to want to study your technique so they can apply it to general pest management control.

That was my experience with my potted mint last year, but this year it started strong and now looks terrible. I've tried more water, less water, fertilizer, cutting it back, and nothing has really helped. I thought it might be mint rust, but I don't feel like it looks like the photos I've found. Anyone have any ideas?





Edit: I think the first image undersells how bad it is. Almost every leaf has some sort of browning on it.

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Arsenic Lupin
Apr 12, 2012

This particularly rapid💨 unintelligible 😖patter💁 isn't generally heard🧏‍♂️, and if it is🤔, it doesn't matter💁.


GlyphGryph posted:

Right now the plan is for milkweed for the sunny areas, dogbane for the partial shade areas, and wine caps for the full shade areas (at least until I'm out of wood chips). All of them seem "easy" to take care of, I think? That and trying to get a good clover and grass mix for the full sun areas of the "lawn" that are currently just covered in woodchips.
BTW, if this is your first season of milkweed, try to get seeds from/buy a milkweed variety that's native to your general area. For instance, the common milkweed, Asclepias syriaca, grows and blooms at the wrong time for monarchs in many locations, especially the West. Scroll down to Milkweed Resources to figure out which variety you should be planting.

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