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ijyt
Apr 10, 2012

IDK if this is the right place to ask, but I'm trying to find M19 thumb/knurled lock nuts but I don't think they exist! I can only find hex nuts but I'd prefer a thumb nut.

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kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002
You mean a wingnut?

kreeningsons
Jan 2, 2007

Motronic posted:

If they're being sold there, probably not.

If you want to shop retail go to an actual lighting stre that sells fixtures and lamps. If you want to order online use 1000bulbs.com or similar, and don't settle for anything less than 90+ CRI as its a big indicator of overall quality, not just color rendering.

Ok that's good info, I didn't even know CRI existed as a measurement of lighting quality.

Despite appearing to be almost identical to the Bulbrite (CRI 80) one, this Satco one is rated better (CRI 90). So I guess I'll go with this.

https://www.satco.com/products/S12421

The frosted/milky white candelabra ones are more difficult to find with a higher CRI rating. Philips is supposed to be a pretty good LED brand I think, and they brag about the high CRI rating on these, the DIY route might be getting these clear ones and trying to etch the glass myself.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Philips...67461/321121534

kreeningsons fucked around with this message at 01:31 on Aug 6, 2023

cirus
Apr 5, 2011
Hi all,

Had some workers come and put in an accent wall around our fireplace. It looks great, but turns out they cut the wires that turn on the fireplace. New wires can't be installed without destroying the stone and redoing the whole thing which is likely to cause significant wall damage.

The switch they cut just connects the power to the fireplace. All I need to fix it is a remote switch that will connect the circuit when on and cut it when off. There's a dedicated outlet for the fireplace and a battery operated backup for the pilot so I'm not worried about having another small power source under there.

I'm having trouble googling the right type of remote switch. I keep getting car remote switches. I just want a standard size light switch that causes a remote circuit to close (and stay closed) until it's turned off.

Thanks!

Anne Whateley
Feb 11, 2007
:unsmith: i like nice words
Your magic word is probably “wireless” rather “remote.”

Look up radiofrequency light switches and see if you think one will work. The controller is wired inline, then you have a switch that can be mounted on the wall, but it can also be thrown in a drawer or whatever

Vim Fuego
Jun 1, 2000



Ultra Carp

TooMuchAbstraction posted:

I have a covered exterior outlet where the cover is looking kinda grody:



I'm guessing the fix here is just to wire brush off the loose paint and rust, then prime and paint it? Anything I ought to watch out for?

Yep. If you're really feeling like it use a "rust converter" or rust reformer before the grey primer and finally the paint.

Brut
Aug 21, 2007
Probation
Can't post for 10 days!
My bathtub started draining a bit slow recently (likely to do a change of the hair situation in the household) so I wanted to clean out the drain, I have one of those drain stoppers that fall down or stay up depending on turned position, in the past I've taken them out just by finding a sweet spot either halfway up or pulling past the fully up position and just unscrewing it by hand, but I couldn't get that to work this time. I unscrewed the little screw on the side of it and took off the cap, I can turn the remaining shaft with some pliers or something but it seems to just be turning forever and not coming out at all, there's still enough resistance that I can't quite turn it by hand, if that matters. What are my options here?

Beef Of Ages
Jan 11, 2003

Your dumb is leaking.

ijyt posted:

IDK if this is the right place to ask, but I'm trying to find M19 thumb/knurled lock nuts but I don't think they exist! I can only find hex nuts but I'd prefer a thumb nut.

Not sure exactly what you're looking for, but if there is an answer to be found, it will be here: https://www.mcmaster.com/products/nuts/

ijyt
Apr 10, 2012

Beef Of Ages posted:

Not sure exactly what you're looking for, but if there is an answer to be found, it will be here: https://www.mcmaster.com/products/nuts/

Ty will have a look!

kid sinister posted:

You mean a wingnut?

Naw like a hex nut but has a round edge, like a thumb screw

cirus
Apr 5, 2011

Anne Whateley posted:

Your magic word is probably “wireless” rather “remote.”

Look up radiofrequency light switches and see if you think one will work. The controller is wired inline, then you have a switch that can be mounted on the wall, but it can also be thrown in a drawer or whatever

Thanks that helped a lot!

E:
This is bringing me back to an earlier problem. There's no existing power at the receiver end, it literally just closes the circuit. I can't find a wireless receiver that does not require a neutral line (because there isn't anything other than load in-load out). Seems like I'll need to wire up my own RF receiver/transmitter kit. Any recommendations on good places to buy these? I don't want some cheap solder shorting out my fireplace.

cirus fucked around with this message at 02:24 on Aug 7, 2023

Beef Eater
Aug 27, 2020

kid sinister posted:

Yep. That's about how it goes: remove any loose plaster, find laths, drill holes, glue the plaster back down to the lath, clamp down with screws, wait for glue to dry, remove screws, plaster, paint.

That first step is removing the bad plaster. That "4x3 section" could get a lot bigger. That depends on why the old stuff fell.

PainterofCrap posted:

The old stuff fell because wood shrinks as it ages, making nail holes and gaps between laths bigger. Also, the plaster breaks off where it's smooshed through the gaps in the lath, everything dries out & loses its adhesion.

Not kiddding about the nails/brads. These are smooth-shank and small, so over the course of a century gravity never stops doing what it does, aided by shrinkage; check for loose lath while up there.

Another trick is to cut out the plaster & lath into two joists, and install a couple layers if drywall as a patch. It can look weird since it can be difficult to get it to blend in the surrounding plaster.

It fell because there was a water leak from the room above. One of the laths came detached from the joist, and I'm guessing that caused it to sag down (we could see the plaster sagging and cracking for over a year before it actually fell). Can I use a screw to reattach the lath to the joist instead of a nail so it's more secure?

Beef Eater fucked around with this message at 06:01 on Aug 7, 2023

PainterofCrap
Oct 17, 2002

hey bebe



Sure: I’d drill a pilot hole through the lath because it gets brittle and splits easily.

You also can claim that on your homeowner’s insurance if you are so inclined. The source of the leak may not be covered. If it’s seepage from around a tub or shower enclosure, it might not be a covered loss - but just about anything else would result in coverage for the plaster ceiling

Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

ijyt posted:

Ty will have a look!

Naw like a hex nut but has a round edge, like a thumb screw

In my experience, a lock nut is too hard to tighten or (especially) loosen with just your fingers, which might be why there aren't any of what you're looking for. What is the application?

PainterofCrap
Oct 17, 2002

hey bebe



They're knurled nuts. I only have ever seen them in assembling electronic items, in frames, for quick changing of components.

I'm sure they're used in a variety of applications.

PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 02:26 on Aug 8, 2023

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Leperflesh posted:

In my experience, a lock nut is too hard to tighten or (especially) loosen with just your fingers, which might be why there aren't any of what you're looking for. What is the application?

Also M19 is pretty big for a fastener - specifically one with torque specs that allow hand tightening - so I'm not sure if we're talking M19 thread (which in of itself would require a thread pitch to match up) or incorrectly talking about the head size. An M19 threaded knurled nut would be one hell of a unicorn use case. Things of that size that are for hand tightening/loosening are usually something like acme or knuckle thread.

Motronic fucked around with this message at 02:26 on Aug 8, 2023

Gothmog1065
May 14, 2009
edit: moved to plumbing thread.

Gothmog1065 fucked around with this message at 00:08 on Aug 10, 2023

Flipperwaldt
Nov 11, 2011

Won't somebody think of the starving hamsters in China?



Gothmog1065 posted:

Can someone help me identify this valve stem? It's the diverter and I'm going to buy all 3 since my shower's all hosed up, but I cannot for the life of me find the right one.

Length: 5 1/2
Splines: 12

:tipshat:

E: that's cheating!

nwin
Feb 25, 2002

make's u think

What’s this type of nut called? I’m missing some for a toddler conversion piece on our crib.

An allen bolt screws into the left end and the inside is threaded. The right side is for a hex key to go into.

Dr. Habibi
Sep 24, 2009



Beef Eater posted:

It fell because there was a water leak from the room above. One of the laths came detached from the joist, and I'm guessing that caused it to sag down (we could see the plaster sagging and cracking for over a year before it actually fell). Can I use a screw to reattach the lath to the joist instead of a nail so it's more secure?

+1 everything that PainterofCrap said. Definitely pre-drill if you're going to do that because those lath snap like Pringles if you just hit 'em once with a hammer a lot of time, depending on how old.

I'd add that I've done a 3/8 drywall patch over the lath after a wall's plaster fully collapsed (held in with a couple layers of wallpaper :haw:) & can add that it's tricky to blend in on a wall. Not sure if a ceiling would be better or worse, but... the more you know.

wesleywillis
Dec 30, 2016

SUCK A MALE CAMEL'S DICK WITH MIRACLE WHIP!!

nwin posted:

What’s this type of nut called? I’m missing some for a toddler conversion piece on our crib.

An allen bolt screws into the left end and the inside is threaded. The right side is for a hex key to go into.



Can't be certain, but possibly a sex nut?

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sex_bolt

wesleywillis fucked around with this message at 00:30 on Aug 10, 2023

Mario
Oct 29, 2006
It's-a-me!

nwin posted:

What’s this type of nut called? I’m missing some for a toddler conversion piece on our crib.

An allen bolt screws into the left end and the inside is threaded. The right side is for a hex key to go into.



MCMaster has a few listed as "Binding barrels" https://www.mcmaster.com/products/nuts/binding-barrels-and-screws-1~/binding-barrels-and-screws-for-wood/

Rexxed
May 1, 2010

Dis is amazing!
I gotta try dis!

nwin posted:

What’s this type of nut called? I’m missing some for a toddler conversion piece on our crib.

An allen bolt screws into the left end and the inside is threaded. The right side is for a hex key to go into.



Not certain of the name but I got a box of bolts and nuts similar to that on amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076G43TWC/

You'd need to figure out the size to be sure you're getting what you need, though. I actually see on some listings they're referred to as barrel nuts but looking that up it shows very different nuts with a cross-threaded section. Here's another listing of some stainless ones as an example:
https://www.amazon.com/Socket-Furniture-Barrel-Chairs-Stainless/dp/B08MXLZH9N/

Dr. Lunchables
Dec 27, 2012

IRL DEBUFFED KOBOLD



Fix It Fast: Try Searching for Sex Nuts

Rakeris
Jul 20, 2014

Dr. Lunchables posted:

Fix It Fast: Try Searching for Sex Nuts

Opopanax
Aug 8, 2007

I HEX YE!!!


I found lots of sex nuts in my area but it didn't really help the plumbing situation

Beef Of Ages
Jan 11, 2003

Your dumb is leaking.

Dr. Lunchables posted:

Fix It Fast: Try Searching for Sex Nuts

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


Dr. Lunchables posted:

Fix It Fast: Try Searching for Sex Nuts
Sadly we keep the title of this thread unfunny so that it's easy for anyone wandering into HCH to find when their sink is flooding or shooting sparks or whatever :(

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006

Kaiser Schnitzel posted:

Sadly we keep the title of this thread unfunny so that it's easy for anyone wandering into HCH to find when their sink is flooding or shooting sparks or whatever :(

:owned:

wesleywillis
Dec 30, 2016

SUCK A MALE CAMEL'S DICK WITH MIRACLE WHIP!!

Dr. Lunchables posted:

Fix It Fast: Try Searching for Sex Nuts

Sometimes known as gently caress nuts

nwin
Feb 25, 2002

make's u think

Thanks for all the help with my nuts.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Ambassadorofsodomy posted:

Sometimes known as gently caress nuts

The gently caress nuts are already in the thread

Beef Of Ages
Jan 11, 2003

Your dumb is leaking.

IOwnCalculus posted:

The gently caress nuts are already in the thread

I resemble this post.

PainterofCrap
Oct 17, 2002

hey bebe



IOwnCalculus posted:

The gently caress nuts are already in the thread

awesomeolion
Nov 5, 2007

"Hi, I'm awesomeolion."

I have this sink faucet and I want to slap a PUR filter on it but i have no idea what i'm doing any tips? :kiddo:

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006

awesomeolion posted:

I have this sink faucet and I want to slap a PUR filter on it but i have no idea what i'm doing any tips? :kiddo:

You can't. :v: The pull down isn't meant to have anything else threaded onto it. See in the product marketing pictures there is a threaded portion there? That's a standard faucet where they have removed the aerator to attach the filter. If you did that here you would be pulling down the whole filter anytime you pulled down the spray head. Sorry. Get a pitcher.

melon cat
Jan 21, 2010

Nap Ghost
Drywall mold question.



I had a roof leak which caused some drywall mold on an upper floor. Cause of roof leak has been found and fixed so no more leaks during rainstorms. But this mold patch is still here.

I sprayed it down with concrobium spray. 3 applications. Mold is still visibly present, though.

Does this patch of drywall need to be cut out and replaced? I was just hoping to avoid having to do that because the drywall is in an odd location between some trim and an angular wall joint. But I'm thinking that the mold has grown all the way through and removal might be my only option.

melon cat fucked around with this message at 15:58 on Aug 12, 2023

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006

melon cat posted:

Does this patch of drywall need to be cut out and replaced? I was just hoping to avoid having to do that because the drywall is in an odd location between some trim and an angular wall joint. But I'm thinking that the mold has grown all the way through and removal might be my only option.

Is it dry? Do you have a way to measure that? If it's dry then I would scrape off some surrounding paint, hit it with some kilz primer, 2 coats if you're feeling frisky, then just paint over it with your regular tinted paint. If it's not dry then you need to dry it out first.

awesomeolion
Nov 5, 2007

"Hi, I'm awesomeolion."

H110Hawk posted:

You can't. :v: The pull down isn't meant to have anything else threaded onto it. See in the product marketing pictures there is a threaded portion there? That's a standard faucet where they have removed the aerator to attach the filter. If you did that here you would be pulling down the whole filter anytime you pulled down the spray head. Sorry. Get a pitcher.

Got it, thanks!

kgibson
Aug 6, 2003
Hey all, I recently had replaced a door and door frame, and am looking for the right way to sand and caulk the frame back to the wall, if that makes sense. Curious what kind of sandpaper and caulk I need, and whether there's anything else I need to do to smooth things out properly that I might be overlooking.

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melon cat
Jan 21, 2010

Nap Ghost

H110Hawk posted:

Is it dry? Do you have a way to measure that? If it's dry then I would scrape off some surrounding paint, hit it with some kilz primer, 2 coats if you're feeling frisky, then just paint over it with your regular tinted paint. If it's not dry then you need to dry it out first.

It is dry to the touch. But the room it’s in, which is the attic, does stay pretty humid during the summer. My cheapy hygrometer says 63% RH. The whole roof leak and repair was all done and over with nearly 2 years ago.

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