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Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Kaiser Schnitzel posted:

The purpose of the email is to have a non-falsifiable time/date stamped record of the phone conversation that was had, not to tell them anything. Emailing yourself 'On 5/7/2023 I spoke with contractor and we discussed the movement of my foundation, contractor fuckwit stated we are within tolerance, my engineer said we are 90%' would serve the same purpose. No harm in sending it to the contractor too so later down the line you can say 'I made them aware of this on X many occasions and they still did nothing' but its mostly serving as written minutes/documentation of a verbal conversation.

The additional purpose of the email is to cut down on he said/she said by giving them an opportunity to correct the "record" right then and there. That's why it needs to go to them, and it's even better if they acknowledge receipt.

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Soap Scum
Aug 8, 2003



back with some updates on the "my ac unit is shaking my whole house" saga. got a bunch of ladders and friends and got these installed, i think this is right?



house sure seems to shake a lot less when using the ac now so.... seems like a good sign.

while i was up there working with friends though, this was about 15 minutes after i'd turned the machine and power off, i noticed one of those black insulating foam tubes was pretty degraded and a moderate amount of water would leak out if i moved/squeezed it. this is what it looks like:




is that a serious concern or not really a problem so long as the interior is generally well-protected?

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Soap Scum posted:

back with some updates on the "my ac unit is shaking my whole house" saga. got a bunch of ladders and friends and got these installed, i think this is right?



house sure seems to shake a lot less when using the ac now so.... seems like a good sign.


Oh sweet, good job. You got it.

Soap Scum posted:

while i was up there working with friends though, this was about 15 minutes after i'd turned the machine and power off, i noticed one of those black insulating foam tubes was pretty degraded and a moderate amount of water would leak out if i moved/squeezed it. this is what it looks like:




is that a serious concern or not really a problem so long as the interior is generally well-protected?

Eh, these go bad. Those really aren't that bad. I really wouldn't be too concerned at this point. At some point you replace that insulation. It's not now. It's not even 3 years from now. It's usually when the unit needs replacement.

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006
You'll know because it will be dusty not squishy. Or you will start finding pieces of it on the ground.

Soap Scum
Aug 8, 2003



Motronic posted:

Oh sweet, good job. You got it.

Eh, these go bad. Those really aren't that bad. I really wouldn't be too concerned at this point. At some point you replace that insulation. It's not now. It's not even 3 years from now. It's usually when the unit needs replacement.


H110Hawk posted:

You'll know because it will be dusty not squishy. Or you will start finding pieces of it on the ground.

sweeeet, glad it looks correct! thanks for the help and suggestions (to you and others) to make that possible

and cool, makes sense - I figured a little dripping or degradation wasn't a serious problem and probably only direct exposure/contact or significant dry rot meant it's time for a replacement, but I know like nothing about this and better safe than sorry o.o

thanks again!

Jenkl
Aug 5, 2008

This post needs at least three times more shit!
What is the right product to redo lineset (I think that's the right term?) insulation? Mine is definitely crumbling and or missing in spots.

PainterofCrap
Oct 17, 2002

hey bebe



Pool noodles & duct tape?

(maybe not duct tape)

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006

Jenkl posted:

What is the right product to redo lineset (I think that's the right term?) insulation? Mine is definitely crumbling and or missing in spots.

Just go to the plumbing section and buy more pipe insulation that looks like it will fit. Couple of zip ties just snug but not squishing it. Don't overthink it. Do be gentle with lineset pipes.

Jenkl
Aug 5, 2008

This post needs at least three times more shit!
Yeah I did that for part of it already. The new stuff seems much less dense then the original.

Sounds like good enough is good enough though, thanks!

Vim Fuego
Jun 1, 2000
Probation
Can't post for 2 hours!
Ultra Carp
What's the right product to secure these loose bricks?



I have a fireplace. It was a wood burning fireplace. Previous owners installed a gas insert. I have taken out the gas manifold and currently don't use it, it's just for decoration. It is possible that someday that will change. Most likely it will eventually have another gas fireplace installed. Unlikely but possible it will be reverted to wood burning.

Two of the bricks are loose. The cat occasionally knocks them out running around. I plan to stick them back in. Is construction adhesive ok? Or should I use a different product because the fireplace may actually be used again someday?

Eason the Fifth
Apr 9, 2020
My amateur rear end would probably go with something like Red Devil Fireplace & Stove Repair Sealant, but the pros will be along shortly

KOTEX GOD OF BLOOD
Jul 7, 2012

Everything coming out of my parents’ fridge has this weird plasticky smell and taste. Anything that’s spent more than a day or two in there, even a jug of water. What would cause this?

Dr. Lunchables
Dec 27, 2012

IRL DEBUFFED KOBOLD



It’s always due to the airpath from the coil. Most fridges use a single coil to run the freezer and fridge, so start in the freezer and clear anything out of the path of the air vents, then stick some baking soda in the freezer near the vents.

PainterofCrap
Oct 17, 2002

hey bebe



Vim Fuego posted:

What's the right product to secure these loose bricks?



I have a fireplace. It was a wood burning fireplace. Previous owners installed a gas insert. I have taken out the gas manifold and currently don't use it, it's just for decoration. It is possible that someday that will change. Most likely it will eventually have another gas fireplace installed. Unlikely but possible it will be reverted to wood burning.

Two of the bricks are loose. The cat occasionally knocks them out running around. I plan to stick them back in. Is construction adhesive ok? Or should I use a different product because the fireplace may actually be used again someday?

Use this stuff, and nothing will dislodge it: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Simpson-Strong-Tie-SET-3G-8-5-oz-High-Strength-Epoxy-Adhesive-with-1-Nozzle-and-Extension-SET3G10/312947523

Had a block wall section bordering my front steps, that popped loose stepped along the mortar line. Half a tube of this stuff and it ain't moving.

Deadite
Aug 30, 2003

A fat guy, a watermelon, and a stack of magazines?
Family.
I have a very pressing home repair question: I have a 5 foot tall plastic skeleton and I want to make the joints more flexible. Does anyone have any ideas on how to do this?

I was thinking I'd cut the joints at the shoulders, hip, elbow, and knees and replace them with interlocked eye bolts, but I don't know how to keep the bolts in place inside the hollow plastic bones. Would low-expansion spray foam work? Or some kind of glue?

Jenkl
Aug 5, 2008

This post needs at least three times more shit!
Foam isn't likely to be dense enough to hold the bolts. Some kind of epoxy would do it. They make putties you knead together then press in to fill the space, very easy to work with. Once cured it'll be drillable.

ryanrs
Jul 12, 2011

PainterofCrap posted:

Use this stuff, and nothing will dislodge it: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Simpson-Strong-Tie-SET-3G-8-5-oz-High-Strength-Epoxy-Adhesive-with-1-Nozzle-and-Extension-SET3G10/312947523

Had a block wall section bordering my front steps, that popped loose stepped along the mortar line. Half a tube of this stuff and it ain't moving.

I think $37 for fancy 2-part epoxy is overkill for this application.

PL 500 landscape adhesive is good for gluing bricks together and costs $7. It's not rated for fireplaces, so don't use so much that it's going to catch fire and cause a disaster. But I think for a repair in a small area, it'll be fine. If it fails, the brick falls off again, whatever, maybe try the $37 stuff then.

Cornuto
Jun 26, 2012

For the pack!



Currently having our siding, trim, and gutters replaced. The roofing company stripped this section of siding over the garage and hadn't wrapped it before leaving last night. Big pop-up thunderstorm that wasn't on the forecast hits early this morning. Wake up to find water dripping into the garage. They're coming out to access and fix whatever damage was caused. Good company who I've worked with in the past and have a good relationship with but I get very wary whenever the person assessing the damages is the person who's going to pay for the repairs. What's the best way for dealing with this? My insurance? Theirs? Get a second roofing company to inspect damages? Just hold tight and wait for their assessment?

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Drywall getting wet once like that typically isn't a problem other than some residual staining once it dries out. The solution is paint.

PainterofCrap
Oct 17, 2002

hey bebe



Wait and see if they remedy it before reporting a claim (which goes towards your loss experience, whether they pay or not). If you're getting bad vibes, get an estimate first to see if it's worth reporting. Replacing fire-taped sheetrock in a garage is not the same as replacing it inside the living space.

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006
If the damage is 4 sheets of sheet rock and few rolls of insulation just let them do the work. Or call a sheet rock company and ask how much it would cost to replace 4 sheets of 5/8" (3/4?) sheet rock fire taped but no texture / coating. If it all dries out you could just ask em for a like $1000 credit and paint it yourself. gently caress it.

tangy yet delightful
Sep 13, 2005



PainterofCrap posted:

Wait and see if they remedy it before reporting a claim (which goes towards your loss experience, whether they pay or not). If you're getting bad vibes, get an estimate first to see if it's worth reporting. Replacing fire-taped sheetrock in a garage is not the same as replacing it inside the living space.

This has made me realize that I should probably fix the lovely drywall tape job that a PO or original builder did in my garage.

Jenkl
Aug 5, 2008

This post needs at least three times more shit!
What are the downsides to using municipal water sump backups? It seems like a better idea given the cost and relatively short time a battery backup would work for.

Also, typical pump life span is 7-10 years?

My folks are looking to get a backup, and are wondering if they should replace the main at the same time. It's close to ten, so I'm thinking yeah.

KOTEX GOD OF BLOOD
Jul 7, 2012

How the gently caress do I change the bulb in this thing without breaking it?

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002
Take the bottom apart?

haveblue
Aug 15, 2005



Toilet Rascal
Are you sure it has a bulb at all and isn’t an integrated LED?

If you have its make and model or can find those with reverse GIS, maybe the manufacturer has instructions online

KOTEX GOD OF BLOOD
Jul 7, 2012

haveblue posted:

Are you sure it has a bulb at all and isn’t an integrated LED?

If you have its make and model or can find those with reverse GIS, maybe the manufacturer has instructions online
It’s a Demeter Desny Reissue - an antique. It has a bulb in there and I can see that it’s burnt out, but can’t figure out at all how to get at it. I’m probably missing something obvious. :shrug:

Rexxed
May 1, 2010

Dis is amazing!
I gotta try dis!

KOTEX GOD OF BLOOD posted:

It’s a Demeter Desny Reissue - an antique. It has a bulb in there and I can see that it’s burnt out, but can’t figure out at all how to get at it. I’m probably missing something obvious. :shrug:

This one that sold on ebay looks like it has the socket mounted in the bottom with a wire mount with springs (last couple of listing pictures):
https://www.ebay.com/itm/256120036872

So you'd probably flip it over and squeeze to pull the socket out and get to the bulb? It's going to be that or through the top but I sort of doubt that would be what they expected people to interact with since there's no obvious hardware on the metal ones and just some acorn nuts on the wood ones based on pictures.

Flipperwaldt
Nov 11, 2011

Won't somebody think of the starving hamsters in China?



I consider it a personal attack to call something made in the 80s an antique.

Fanged Lawn Wormy
Jan 4, 2008

SQUEAK! SQUEAK! SQUEAK!
I dunno where else to post this, so Imma ask here:

I had a bottle of barbeque sauce fall on our rug (approx 8x10) late last night. I got the wet stuff off and pre-treated with a little dawn and water, but I definitely didn't have the time or energy to fully clean it out at 11:00pm.

The rug isn't anything special like a tapestry or anything, just kinda made like carpet, like one from hope depot. What's the best thing to do to clean it out now? The whole thing could use a bit of a deep clean anyways. I originally planned on taking it out and pressure washing it and using dawn with a scrub brush for the car. Now it looks like it's gonna be rainy the next day or so and I would have trouble drying it effectively.

I was thinking to just go rent a Rug Doctor or something. Is there anything else I can do that won't cost me a ton to get this out?









KOTEX GOD OF BLOOD posted:

How the gently caress do I change the bulb in this thing without breaking it?



Ha! that's cool. I just bought the Taschen 1000 lamps book after a visit to a museum, and this lil guy was in it. I can't help with it though :(

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Fanged Lawn Wormy posted:

I was thinking to just go rent a Rug Doctor or something. Is there anything else I can do that won't cost me a ton to get this out?

Rug doctor and their chemicals should work fine but is this a.......I dont' know the right terms.....is it permanently affixed to the floor or is it something you can pick up? Sounds like you can pick it up. And if you can and you can just take it outside, get it wet again and make that area wet you can scrub it lightly with some gentile cleaner from the top and bottom with a soft brush. (gentile cleaner like woolite soft brush from the grocery store too). The key here is that if you can clean it that way you don't need the whole rental because you can also leave it not on the floor while it dries. Throw it over a coupe of chairs or whatever out back/patio/what you got outsidem pat it dry with towels and then let it sit the rest of the way dry.

Dr. Lunchables
Dec 27, 2012

IRL DEBUFFED KOBOLD



Putting soap on a stain right away is always the answer. Now? Probably also soap. Soap is really good at cleaning stuff.

PainterofCrap
Oct 17, 2002

hey bebe



From a quick search, it looks like the base is a block that fits inside of a chrome cover; you may have to gently pry it free. When in doubt follow the cord & see how it enters the fixture.

Also:

Flipperwaldt posted:

I consider it a personal attack to call something made in the 80s an antique.

Slugworth
Feb 18, 2001

If two grown men can't make a pervert happy for a few minutes in order to watch a film about zombies, then maybe we should all just move to Iran!

Motronic posted:

Rug doctor and their chemicals should work fine but is this a.......I dont' know the right terms.....is it permanently affixed to the floor or is it something you can pick up? Sounds like you can pick it up. And if you can and you can just take it outside, get it wet again and make that area wet you can scrub it lightly with some gentile cleaner from the top and bottom with a soft brush. (gentile cleaner like woolite soft brush from the grocery store too). The key here is that if you can clean it that way you don't need the whole rental because you can also leave it not on the floor while it dries. Throw it over a coupe of chairs or whatever out back/patio/what you got outsidem pat it dry with towels and then let it sit the rest of the way dry.
I'm only allowed to use kosher cleaners :(

Etuni
Jun 28, 2006

What it lacks in substance, it makes up for in pretty colors

The hinge for my corner kitchen cabinet broke, and I'm having a hell of a time figuring out what replacement part I need. This is for a corner door that swings out like for a cabinet with a lazy susan. In the pic below with my hand, the left side is the bottom, intact hinge plate and to the right is the metal piece that broke off the hinge at the top of the cabinet. Second pic is the other side of the broken hinge, with a logo I don't recognize- other hinges in the kitchen are Blum brand this one don't look anything like what I see on their website or LowesDepot. I've narrowed down that this is a "European concealed hinge", but if anyone can recognize what I have or give me more things to google It would be much appreciated.

Teabag Dome Scandal
Mar 19, 2002


I am having both panes of a window replaced and while it seems like its probably more work than replacing the whole thing including the frame, it doesn't seem like that much more and the windows themselves seemed reasonably priced. When is replacing the entire window that much better than just replacing the panes? I didn't realize they were just held in with double sided tape either.

Eason the Fifth
Apr 9, 2020

Teabag Dome Scandal posted:

I am having both panes of a window replaced and while it seems like its probably more work than replacing the whole thing including the frame, it doesn't seem like that much more and the windows themselves seemed reasonably priced. When is replacing the entire window that much better than just replacing the panes? I didn't realize they were just held in with double sided tape either.

What kind of window? If you mean a single/double-hung window, usually just replacing the pane in a sash is far easier than removing the old sashes and replacing the old frame.

Here's a diagram to make sure we're using the same nomenclature --
https://atticsandmore.com/parts-of-a-window/

Eason the Fifth fucked around with this message at 18:29 on Aug 28, 2023

Powershift
Nov 23, 2009


Etuni posted:

The hinge for my corner kitchen cabinet broke, and I'm having a hell of a time figuring out what replacement part I need. This is for a corner door that swings out like for a cabinet with a lazy susan. In the pic below with my hand, the left side is the bottom, intact hinge plate and to the right is the metal piece that broke off the hinge at the top of the cabinet. Second pic is the other side of the broken hinge, with a logo I don't recognize- other hinges in the kitchen are Blum brand this one don't look anything like what I see on their website or LowesDepot. I've narrowed down that this is a "European concealed hinge", but if anyone can recognize what I have or give me more things to google It would be much appreciated.



https://www.hafele.ca/en/product/hinge-pie-cut-corner-hinge-78-degree-zinc-nickel-plated/P-00898420/

Teabag Dome Scandal
Mar 19, 2002


Eason the Fifth posted:

What kind of window? If you mean a single/double-hung window, usually just replacing the pane in a sash is far easier than removing the old sashes and replacing the old frame.

Here's a diagram to make sure we're using the same nomenclature --
https://atticsandmore.com/parts-of-a-window/

Thanks that was helpful. It is an aluminum single hung horizontal sliding window and I had the fixed and moveable sash panes replaced. I would imagine replacing anything else wouldn't have been possible given the age of the windows without replacing everything. Are most full window replacements then not necessary? What would necessitate full replacement of a double pane single/double hung window outside of wanting more modern/smooth hardware?

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Blowjob Overtime
Apr 6, 2008

Steeeeriiiiiiiiike twooooooo!

Short version:
1) What services/process/prep do we need to make sure are included for an asphalt sealing quote?
2) Is there any additional prep work that needs to be done for something like a hydraulic fluid spill?

Part of our property includes an easement where large power lines run through. Our driveway is by far the easiest way for the lowest-bidder tree trimming service the power company hires to get into the easement and lay in the back of their trucks while one guy works do the important work of clear-cutting poo poo that is in no way a danger to the power lines.

As part of this work they used some equipment that spilled a bunch of hydraulic fluid, then wheeled it down the driveway to the street:


The supervisor stopped by the house to apologize to my wife for a variety of issues, then tried to fix the issue by dumping kitty litter on the days-old stain (it was still there in that picture). To absolutely no one's surprise, that was completely ineffective, so now we're looking to get it resealed (which we were planning on doing this year anyway, but hey, now they can pay for it).

Part of his condescending discussion with my wife included saying the resealing process wouldn't work because of the hydraulic fluid spill, which sounds dubious on its own and, if at all true, I took to mean he just didn't want to pay for whatever the proper process would be to prep the surface before resealing.

Slugworth posted:

I'm only allowed to use kosher cleaners :(
:lol:

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