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Cyrano4747
Sep 25, 2006

Yes, I know I'm old, get off my fucking lawn so I can yell at these clouds.

H110Hawk posted:

15' tall is uh, not a stump. Shouldn't they be able to chainsaw them much smaller even chunks at a time? How did they drop a loving chainsaw, those are supposed to be strapped to the belt of the climber aren't they?

Also :stare: hit power lines + dropped chainsaw and nearly killed several people?

Yeah, this is what I was thinking, then I read up to double check and saw that the fuckers are six feet thick. That's. . . . that's a loving lot of work with a chain saw, and god only knows what the realities of trimming off chunks of that are.

edit: my jokey solution: hollow out the interior. Those are no longer tree stumps, they are artful detached sheds.

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TooMuchAbstraction
Oct 14, 2012

I spent four years making
Waves of Steel
Hell yes I'm going to turn my avatar into an ad for it.
Fun Shoe

trevorreznik posted:

How did they lower the highest limbs without using a crane?

You tie the limb to a slightly lower part of the tree, sever it, then lower it down. You don't usually need a crane to remove a tree, but 6' diameter is a hell of a lot of tree.

I guess it's remotely possible that you could find someone with a portable sawmill who could be convinced to turn that "stump" into slabs. Poplar isn't terribly popular lumber though, so I wouldn't hold my breath.

Eeyo
Aug 29, 2004

So speaking of trees, what do I do with all the debris left from stump grinding? We had 2 trees removed (one diseased, one old and struggling), and we've got bigass piles of mulch/dirt.

Do I just like leave it there for a couple years?

Verman
Jul 4, 2005
Third time is a charm right?
:words:
The owner of this company was bad at quoting jobs and didn't have the personal experience as a climber to set his climbing teams up for success. He also sent out a relatively green crew to tackle what several tree companies said would be a difficult job due to the proximity to the house and power lines.

The saw falling was odd. It was clipped in all day but as he repositioned it came loose. My guess is the carabiner wasn't fully closed or caught on the harness or his shirt or something. The climber wasn't super experienced and played a little fast and loose with safety. The kid on the ground hit with the saw (thankfully just the body and not the blade or dog) was super green and only a week into the job. Should have been paying attention and not standing in a danger zone. They were both replaced after day 1.

The top coming down and hitting the lines was 100% human error by the climber on the first day. Too big of a piece taken at one time, didn't factor in any breeze, etc. It hit the lines, blew the transformer and electrocuted the rope man on the ground.

I demanded a new crew or I was cancelling the project. The owner sent a new crew and his most experienced climber. It was night and day different. Safer, more communication, and the lead climber was great at what he did. He told me this should have had a crane but the owner doesn't bid jobs very well since he's not a climber himself. Over the course of the 4 days with the new climber, he stressed his caution about the snag over the house and getting it out safely without additional equipment. He did what he felt safe doing and called it at the end of the 5th day. He was worried about rounds hitting the house as they were getting larger with a very small landing zone and couldn't be lowered with a rope since the rest of the tree was already down.

Disappointed with what was leftover, the owner and I negotiated a fair, discounted price given the decrease in scope of the project. I asked if there was anything they could do to finish the job and he said they don't work with cranes so the best he could do was trust the opinion of his climber, leave it as it and give me a discount. By that point I was happy to send a discounted payment and just be done with it.

H110Hawk posted:

15' tall is uh, not a stump. Shouldn't they be able to chainsaw them much smaller even chunks at a time? How did they drop a loving chainsaw, those are supposed to be strapped to the belt of the climber aren't they?

Technically its a wildlife snag but its all de-limbed. The climber told me why it was difficult and I believe him. He can't be tied into a snag making vertical cuts because it poses a threat of cutting his harness rope. Taking it down one small piece at a time would take a full day. There's nowhere to tie them off and lower them down from at that point. If you push them off, they bounce into the house. I also think the time it would take to do it little by little was more than they had budgeted for. I have a feeling the owner told the crew this would be the last day of the job.


trevorreznik posted:

How did they lower the highest limbs without using a crane?

Climber climbs the highest strongest branch and secures an anchor point at the top with a pulley and rigging rope with a man on the ground controlling the descent. As he cuts things down, he secures it with a rope and cuts the limb allowing it to come down safely. The sketchy part is taking the tops off as they're the largest pieces, mostly overhead, and cause the tree to swing a lot when it comes off. The climber can only climb as thick of a limb as a 4x4 on poplar due to their fragility so once he gets up that high he has to commit to cutting the top where he can safely tie it off to be lowered. When it works, it works super efficiently and its cool to witness. It all relies on safety and communication.


TooMuchAbstraction posted:

I guess it's remotely possible that you could find someone with a portable sawmill who could be convinced to turn that "stump" into slabs. Poplar isn't terribly popular lumber though, so I wouldn't hold my breath.

Lombardy poplar is not great for pretty much anything but a windbreak. Its awful wood for burning and awful for woodworking. I had to pay for it to get removed.

c355n4
Jan 3, 2007

Replacing the baseboard trim in the laundry room and the water pipes for the washing machine come up from the floor. Any ideas/suggestions how to get the baseboard trim back behind the pipes?

I was planning on shortening the height of the baseboard trim to match the old one that I removed. I'd also have to cut it and join it somewhere else along the wall so I can slide it in between the wall and pipes.

Plan B was creating like a wooden box to enclose the pipes near the bottom and baseboard trim around that box. Would add some protection to the pipes from getting hit.

DoubleT2172
Sep 24, 2007

c355n4 posted:

baseboard trim around that box
Be sure not to blast trim nails into the pipes when you add it

Cyrano4747
Sep 25, 2006

Yes, I know I'm old, get off my fucking lawn so I can yell at these clouds.

c355n4 posted:

Replacing the baseboard trim in the laundry room and the water pipes for the washing machine come up from the floor. Any ideas/suggestions how to get the baseboard trim back behind the pipes?

I was planning on shortening the height of the baseboard trim to match the old one that I removed. I'd also have to cut it and join it somewhere else along the wall so I can slide it in between the wall and pipes.

Plan B was creating like a wooden box to enclose the pipes near the bottom and baseboard trim around that box. Would add some protection to the pipes from getting hit.



Are the pipes going to be hidden behind the washing machine? If they're not visible then what the gently caress ever, hell I might be tempted to go full Gary and just not put trim behind the washing machine.

If the pipes aren't going to be hidden I'd be very tempted to box them in entirely. Obviously down along the bottom, but also throw a little something over them going up the wall, put in some access hatches any place you need to be able to reach a valve or something similar. Then again I'm of the opinion that weird wall boxes > exposed pipes aesthetically, and that's not going to be universal.

Jenkl
Aug 5, 2008

This post needs at least three times more shit!

c355n4 posted:

Replacing the baseboard trim in the laundry room and the water pipes for the washing machine come up from the floor. Any ideas/suggestions how to get the baseboard trim back behind the pipes?

I was planning on shortening the height of the baseboard trim to match the old one that I removed. I'd also have to cut it and join it somewhere else along the wall so I can slide it in between the wall and pipes.

Plan B was creating like a wooden box to enclose the pipes near the bottom and baseboard trim around that box. Would add some protection to the pipes from getting hit.



You get to be as hacky, or not, as you want to be. It's your laundry room behind some pipes.

A box is ideal because it lets the baseboards serve their purpose of protecting the wall, and in this case, pipes, as you mentioned.

You can also rip the base to the height needed to slip in there. If you're feeling frisky you can add some kind of plinth block type thing to help the transition: so normal base -> block -> short base -> block -> normal base.

The Wonder Weapon
Dec 16, 2006



It was not a good two hours last night. Taking my kids up to bath, I passed through the hallway that had those cracks in the lathe and plaster I've been trying to successfully repair for a couple months. I've filled them, and put ~three skim coats on. It's been a couple weeks since I've been able to work on it, and last night I discovered that hairline cracks had reappeared where I did the work. All of that effort for nothing. I guess there's just cracks in this wall? And I can't do anything about it? That's so crummy.

More urgently, my silverware drawer broke right before I discovered all that. I grabbed a few photos.

This is the bracket that the slide rail sits in. This is the one that didn't break. On the other side, the plastic snapped.


The lower shelf rail that didn't break, and the silverware rail that did and is now hanging.


The lower shelf rail sitting in a cutout.


I've got one question regarding removal; I'm not sure how to get that top bracket out of the back of the cabinet. It seems like it just pushes into two 1/8" holes drilled into the back panel? But trying to pull the broken bracket out, I hear the wood cracking. While I want to just rip it out, I'm afraid I'll break the back panel of the cabinet.

More broadly. I'd like to replace all three of these rails. They're not great. But replacing this entire cabinet is way out of scope right now. Do you guys have rails you've used for these cabinets that are relatively universal, and that you've been a fan of?

c355n4
Jan 3, 2007

Cyrano4747 posted:

Are the pipes going to be hidden behind the washing machine? If they're not visible then what the gently caress ever, hell I might be tempted to go full Gary and just not put trim behind the washing machine.

If the pipes aren't going to be hidden I'd be very tempted to box them in entirely. Obviously down along the bottom, but also throw a little something over them going up the wall, put in some access hatches any place you need to be able to reach a valve or something similar. Then again I'm of the opinion that weird wall boxes > exposed pipes aesthetically, and that's not going to be universal.

I contemplated forgoing the trim. But, it just feels wrong.

Jenkl posted:

You get to be as hacky, or not, as you want to be. It's your laundry room behind some pipes.

A box is ideal because it lets the baseboards serve their purpose of protecting the wall, and in this case, pipes, as you mentioned.

You can also rip the base to the height needed to slip in there. If you're feeling frisky you can add some kind of plinth block type thing to help the transition: so normal base -> block -> short base -> block -> normal base.

Oh, that last suggestion is an idea. I had to do that in a bathroom to clear the toilet supply coming from the wall.

And yea, this area is totally not visible once the laundry machine is in place. Choices...

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





If that plumbing is completely invisible behind a washing machine, I would do absolutely nothing more back there and not feel the least bit bad about it.

devmd01
Mar 7, 2006

Elektronik
Supersonik
Contractor is submitting for permits to get our patio remodel and screened in addition kicked off, he estimated mid-late September to get started.

Now I need to go to microcenter and get another AP to install out there, they have a grand opening sale on unfi APs.

Jenkl
Aug 5, 2008

This post needs at least three times more shit!
Yeah FWIW I didn't base my laundry/utility and have been pretty anal about most things. It just didn't seem worth it.

100 HOGS AGREE
Oct 13, 2007
Grimey Drawer

devmd01 posted:

Contractor is submitting for permits to get our patio remodel and screened in addition kicked off, he estimated mid-late September to get started.

Now I need to go to microcenter and get another AP to install out there, they have a grand opening sale on unfi APs.

I gotta get some access points for my house and maybe some of those like, powerline adapter things, my router is in the basement rn and i got poo poo coverage in my bedroom.

c355n4
Jan 3, 2007

IOwnCalculus posted:

If that plumbing is completely invisible behind a washing machine, I would do absolutely nothing more back there and not feel the least bit bad about it.

Jenkl posted:

Yeah FWIW I didn't base my laundry/utility and have been pretty anal about most things. It just didn't seem worth it.

When my wall falls down because I didn't add the structural baseboard trim. I'm coming after you all.

Sirotan
Oct 17, 2006

Sirotan is a seal.


You could always get that vinyl wall base stuff which imho kinda looks like poo poo but its flexible and easy to install and might be appropriate for a laundry room.

devmd01
Mar 7, 2006

Elektronik
Supersonik

100 HOGS AGREE posted:

I gotta get some access points for my house and maybe some of those like, powerline adapter things, my router is in the basement rn and i got poo poo coverage in my bedroom.

I uh, went overboard with structured cabling, so adding a couple of runs to the roof of the patio is easy during construction. I still have three empty spots available in the upstairs IDF.
There are already three APs around the house, this will make for some nice Wi-Fi coverage in the back yard. Everything runs off of a poe+ Cisco switch in the basement.

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006
So it begins. We knew from the inspection that the sewer clean-out was a "T" not a sweep, what I didn't understand was the standing water I saw in the video. Mystery solved! Plumber came out today and started hacking away the plants and moving the rocks to find a SECOND cleanout! Turns out there was a buried P-trap he referred to as a "pool drain" that connected to the T lateral "clean-out". They've now sawed all that apart and are putting in a bi-directional cleanout setup, so I will still have 2 cleanouts but they will both be useful instead of 0 of them being useful. They're also going to be replacing the crusty main water shutoff shown there, and they upsold me to a new reg because why not, they already have it all apart.



Also funny, my cable modem was delivered (picture from the delivery company):

Harminoff
Oct 24, 2005

👽
I just bought a house which has a bathroom that is partially remodeled and just needs a shower installed/drywall/hvac.

Is it best to call a renovator or get all these myself? I currently have no contacts for any.

Calidus
Oct 31, 2011

Stand back I'm going to try science!

Harminoff posted:

I just bought a house which has a bathroom that is partially remodeled and just needs a shower installed/drywall/hvac.

Is it best to call a renovator or get all these myself? I currently have no contacts for any.

Many contractors have accounts at Lowe’s or Home Depot, then you can sit down with store employees and pick out major items and choose colors.

The Wonder Weapon
Dec 16, 2006



I've seen those tiling videos on tiktok. There's no such thing as "just a shower installed."

slidebite
Nov 6, 2005

Good egg
:colbert:

American Standard came thru and came home to a brand new Champion 4 sitting my garage yesterday afternoon.

I did successfully get rid of the tank leak on the new toilets I installed 2 weeks ago, so I guess I have a brand new toilet... that I don't need :toot:

Eeyo posted:

So speaking of trees, what do I do with all the debris left from stump grinding? We had 2 trees removed (one diseased, one old and struggling), and we've got big rear end piles of mulch/dirt.

Do I just like leave it there for a couple years?
You could, but if it is crazy excessive I'd just take it to a municipal composting facility if you have one.

c355n4
Jan 3, 2007

slidebite posted:

American Standard came thru and came home to a brand new Champion 4 sitting my garage yesterday afternoon.

I did successfully get rid of the tank leak on the new toilets I installed 2 weeks ago, so I guess I have a brand new toilet... that I don't need :toot:

You could, but if it is crazy excessive I'd just take it to a municipal composting facility if you have one.

Your dealings with American Standard have me rethinking my Toto toilet purchases. I've never had any issues; but, that is some great customer service.

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006
I am definitely getting American Standards for my new house that needs 2 new toilets. Do kinda want a toto robotoilet 9000 though for the master bath.

devmd01
Mar 7, 2006

Elektronik
Supersonik
The neighbor that shares the right half of the back fence with us only has one good tree in their back yard, so there isn’t a lot of good privacy that direction. We have planted trees on our side, because we plan for this to be our forever house. Since the town fall tree sale is coming up, I’ve talked to my neighbor and offered to buy him whichever two trees he wants to put in his yard to help with privacy. At $30 ea, that’s an easy no brainer investment for more privacy down the road.

The maple I planted on our side is starting to take off, I may have to take down the two lovely pines flanking it sooner than planned.

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006

devmd01 posted:

The neighbor that shares the right half of the back fence with us only has one good tree in their back yard, so there isn’t a lot of good privacy that direction. We have planted trees on our side, because we plan for this to be our forever house. Since the town fall tree sale is coming up, I’ve talked to my neighbor and offered to buy him whichever two trees he wants to put in his yard to help with privacy. At $30 ea, that’s an easy no brainer investment for more privacy down the road.

The maple I planted on our side is starting to take off, I may have to take down the two lovely pines flanking it sooner than planned.

You're a good neighbor. I will excitedly await your post about felling 2 pines straight onto your neighbors house.

right arm
Oct 30, 2011

H110Hawk posted:

I am definitely getting American Standards for my new house that needs 2 new toilets. Do kinda want a toto robotoilet 9000 though for the master bath.

toto rules. plus the washlet fits it perfectly

slidebite
Nov 6, 2005

Good egg
:colbert:

c355n4 posted:

Your dealings with American Standard have me rethinking my Toto toilet purchases. I've never had any issues; but, that is some great customer service.

H110Hawk posted:

I am definitely getting American Standards for my new house that needs 2 new toilets. Do kinda want a toto robotoilet 9000 though for the master bath.
I obviously give top marks for American Standard customer service and the physical capability for the Champion 4 to flush large loads of waste without a problem. It has an oversized, fully glazed trapway which makes a *huge* difference compared to more "normal" toilets. Even my Cramona that was decently good for large capacity, but still gave the odd issue from time to time.

I guess at the end of the day the only problem was that, ideally, I shouldn't have needed customer service in the first place. The QC from the factory on that porcelain inside the tank was marginal in that it was pretty apparent to me what the problem was as soon as I pulled the fill valve, and I'm typically not the sharpest knife in the drawer.

That said, it's possible any consumer product to have a factory issue and they dealt with it the best possible way so have zero concerns recommending them and their ability to deal with a problem like this when it happens.

The overall finish is nice, the components seem to be very high quality, it included everything needed for an install except a fill hose. All items included were good quality (hardware, wax seal and even a disposable deep wrench for attaching the tank) and the seat is a really nice, slow closing seat. I would recommend taking the 2 minutes and just pull the fill valve, make sure it's nice and smooth in the tank for a proper seal before doing the install to alleviate the risk of running into the problem I did. At the end of the day, 100% draining the tank water to get in there with some sandpaper and smooth it out was not a big deal... maybe 10-15 minutes. Nothing awful, and not all of them needed it as my first 2 of 4 were 100% out of the box.

devmd01
Mar 7, 2006

Elektronik
Supersonik

H110Hawk posted:

You're a good neighbor. I will excitedly await your post about felling 2 pines straight onto your neighbors house.

I’ve cut down four of them so far that were on their way to dying since owning the house. whatever idiot decided that planting a bunch of pines right next to the swale was a real smart cookie.

There are four left that I’d still be comfortable dropping. The fifth is way too big to do myself but also the healthiest, it can stay. They run about 40-50ft tall, the only thing they are in danger of is crushing my fence if I don’t drop it right.

Drunk Driver Dad
Feb 18, 2005
Hey guys I have a question about attic ventilation or whatever.

House: Slab house attached to 2 other houses with separate roofs, 1 story with attached garage, attic that covers the house and garage. Furnace and stuff is in the attic.

I was reading a post in reddit dealing with this and a guy said if your attic has passive ventilation, you should be able to see a little light at the very top, where they are supposed to cut a slit in the tar paper near the ridge vents. They said this very commonly gets skipped and it's an easy fix. Is this true? I had a home inspection done when I bought the house, however it happened before a new roof was put on as part of the deal. I never thought about any of this before I read that reddit post, but last time I was in my attic I was terrified to be in there more than a couple of minutes. It was hotter than the inside of a car in the sunlight, and I was concerned I'd fall out if I stayed up there too long. I remember it being very dark in there when I was in there, I think I'd have noticed if there was a bit of light in the top. I haven't gone back up to check it since I read that post, as I want someone to be here for safety reasons(it's really that drat hot and humid up there).

I know an attic that's too hot can obviously effect your energy efficiency, but since the attic is over my garage(that's where the access door is too), could it possibly be contributing to my garage being hotter than it should be? Ever since I moved in here my working out has gone to poo poo because the garage is insanely hot and I'm not sure why. I'm pretty sure it's hotter than a garage should be, but I'm not sure how to check for insulation. There are definitely styrofoam looking panels in the garage door, but I'm not sure if they are real insulation or just cosmetic.

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006
The "slit at the top" is not just someone running a razorblade along it, nor something "commonly missed." it's a ridge vent. They are definitely a thing that is very useful for creating convection in your attic from soffit to ridge. They are common in new construction where they are trying to meet energy efficiency standards. Most older houses have the vents on the sides to do the same thing in conjunction with the soffits but they don't work nearly as well.

Adding a ridge vent is a lot of work. Fixing the air sealing between the garage and attic, plus insulation in the walls and attic, will make a HUGE difference.

The foam panels on the garage door are very real. If they bought actual rated insulation it should have some foil on it and a number like R-5 or whatever. If they just broke up foam coolers over the years well, they won't.

H110Hawk fucked around with this message at 00:04 on Aug 25, 2023

Drunk Driver Dad
Feb 18, 2005
Wait, so it it normal for an Alabama summer attic to be like 130 degrees or something insane like that then? I know I have ridge vents at the top on the outside, I was just curious if it was potentially blocked with tarpaper from the new install like the one roofer guy claimed happens sometimes. So you shouldn't be able to see any light at the top at all?

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006

Drunk Driver Dad posted:

Wait, so it it normal for an Alabama summer attic to be like 130 degrees or something insane like that then? I know I have ridge vents at the top on the outside, I was just curious if it was potentially blocked with tarpaper from the new install like the one roofer guy claimed happens sometimes. So you shouldn't be able to see any light at the top at all?

Yes. 130 is pretty normal.

Can you post a picture of it? Because if your ridge vent is there but sealed off that should be an easy fix for a roofer.

PainterofCrap
Oct 17, 2002

hey bebe



Drunk Driver Dad posted:

Wait, so it it normal for an Alabama summer attic to be like 130 degrees or something insane like that then?

I'm in southern New Jersey, and I can't store Christmas candles or vinyl LPs in my attic.

Drunk Driver Dad
Feb 18, 2005

H110Hawk posted:

Yes. 130 is pretty normal.

Can you post a picture of it? Because if your ridge vent is there but sealed off that should be an easy fix for a roofer.

Not today, but soon I'll get some pics of inside the attic of the vent, the insulation and stuff in there as well as the garage door and things and come check back in here. I'm not too worried about the attic itself since nothing seems to be exploding, but I would really love it if I could control the temperature in the garage a bit better so I can workout again.

e: This sounds stupid, but can I like, puff some sick vape clouds around the attic and check airflow that way?

Drunk Driver Dad
Feb 18, 2005

PainterofCrap posted:

I'm in southern New Jersey, and I can't store Christmas candles or vinyl LPs in my attic.

Ah, that thread I was reading people were acting like it was normal for an attic to be hot, but not extremely so. I was guessing at the 130f temp, but it seriously is worse than a car sitting out in the summer sun. I can sit in the car for a short bit without worrying that it'll immediately kill me. Not so with the attic.

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006

Drunk Driver Dad posted:

e: This sounds stupid, but can I like, puff some sick vape clouds around the attic and check airflow that way?

Yes but it will be hard once you're that stoned. Typically people use like an incense stick or dedicated little smoke/steam wands. It's generally to find leaks or drafts though, not bulk flow.

Drunk Driver Dad posted:

Ah, that thread I was reading people were acting like it was normal for an attic to be hot, but not extremely so. I was guessing at the 130f temp, but it seriously is worse than a car sitting out in the summer sun. I can sit in the car for a short bit without worrying that it'll immediately kill me. Not so with the attic.

I'm in socal where it can regularly be 100f+ ambient in the shade during the summer. 130f is sort of a starting point.

Epitope
Nov 27, 2006

Grimey Drawer
A flashlight and attic ppe vs rip fat cotton. Why not both?

Slugworth
Feb 18, 2001

If two grown men can't make a pervert happy for a few minutes in order to watch a film about zombies, then maybe we should all just move to Iran!
Your attic should be like 20 degrees hotter than ambient temperature, or your ventilation isn't working properly. There may be regions where this is unrealistic, to be fair, but it's a common enough rule of thumb.

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Eeyo
Aug 29, 2004

I asked a bit ago about house energy audits, what should I expect to pay for a good one? One place quoted me $1800 for door blower, infrared cameras, hvac equipment tests, and duct testing.

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