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Rad-daddio
Apr 25, 2017
It would be in resin.

I like the idea of printing with white resin and just adding a color to contrast it.

Or printing with black and contrasting it with white pigment.

I guess the next question is how small can I make the barcode image before it doesn't work.

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Sagebrush
Feb 26, 2012

QR codes also have error correction built in, which seems important in this scenario.

But yeah any tool that can take a black and white image and turn it into an extruded height map will do the job. Scale it down to like a millimeter thick, pause the print two layers before the end, swap the filament. Prusaslicer can do it with one button.

E: okay, the last part doesn't apply to resin printers. but the rest still does

tracecomplete
Feb 26, 2017

Rad-daddio posted:

I resin printed out a bunch of spinning tops ala Inception, as a promotional freebie for my shop. I put the shop name and contact info on the top of it. The plan is to scatter them around town(at strategic locations) and hand them out at trade shows. They're way more fun that a business card at least.

semi-related, does anybody know if there's an existing workflow for 3d printing a 2d barcode image?

export as SVG, import into fusion, extrude?

Sagebrush is right though, use QR codes if at all possible.

Rad-daddio
Apr 25, 2017
I converted the QR code to a dxf file, and brought into Solidworks and then scaled it down to a 1 x 1 test coupon.

By the looks of it, I'll have to tweak the geometry so that the white spaces are raised and then clean up the geo so that I don't have sketch errors but I think it'll at least create a 3d shape tyst I can manipulate.

This would be so much easier if I just used a laser engraver :shrek:

queeb
Jun 10, 2004

m



I actually did a "trade show" on the weekend, actually an antique fair in a popular tourist town near here i was helping my grandpa at, so I brough a table full of minis and buildings and just put them out. actually sold $100 worth of stuff when I expected to sell 0, so that was nice. Also had a couple people reach out to me afterwards and ask for gift ideas from my store, so hell yeah.

also gently caress printable scenery and their pre-supports:

queeb fucked around with this message at 17:30 on Aug 25, 2023

WhiteHowler
Apr 3, 2001

I'M HUGE!

queeb posted:

also gently caress printable scenery and their pre-supports:



Jeeze, that's awful.

And why did they set them up to print diagonally and floating like that? Why not horizontal and right above the print bed? They might still need supports, but this seems like a waste. Also, taller prints carries more risk of adhesion loss in my experience.

IncredibleIgloo
Feb 17, 2011





Rad-daddio posted:

I converted the QR code to a dxf file, and brought into Solidworks and then scaled it down to a 1 x 1 test coupon.

By the looks of it, I'll have to tweak the geometry so that the white spaces are raised and then clean up the geo so that I don't have sketch errors but I think it'll at least create a 3d shape tyst I can manipulate.

This would be so much easier if I just used a laser engraver :shrek:

You can get a baby laser engraver for relatively cheap: https://www.elegoo.com/products/elegoo-phecda-laser-engraver-cutter-10w-20w

I definitely, absolutely recommend a laser though. They are absolutely fun. I love 3d printing, especially resin 3d printing, but the laser is so clean and easy to use. As long as you have material stocked you can get an idea and start cutting it out in mere minutes. Xtool makes some good ones, but I think Gweike is probably best.

gbut
Mar 28, 2008

😤I put the UN🇺🇳 in 🎊FUN🎉


Pulled the trigger and ordered a Voron v2 kit. Wish me luck.

Nerobro
Nov 4, 2005

Rider now with 100% more titanium!

gbut posted:

Pulled the trigger and ordered a Voron v2 kit. Wish me luck.

Build it per the kit's revision. Ask lots of questions. When you build things on it, plan on how you'd get back to that part. And... ask questions. Here, or ideally the voron discord. They will help you every step along the way.

I'm not gonna wish you luck. You don't need.. luck. :-)

mattfl
Aug 27, 2004

gbut posted:

Pulled the trigger and ordered a Voron v2 kit. Wish me luck.

Ya you need more than luck lol

No but seriously, a bunch of us in here have gone through the build/upgrade process on their vorons and the discord channel is great help.

Mine is currently down again as I had a belt that was slipping off its pulley for a while and wore a grove in said belt. New belt will be here today but having to disassemble basically the entire toolhead to replace it is uhh fun yeah fun that's it lol

Build it basic first, then start looking at the upgrades, there are many!

gbut
Mar 28, 2008

😤I put the UN🇺🇳 in 🎊FUN🎉


Thanks for the advice. I got into the discord for (unavoidable) questions. This is a hobby build so I can take my time.

I’m excited to finally print ABS in large format at some point. I’ve been eyeing either this or Bambu, and—as a FLOSS-head I am—I decided to go with the open platform. This thread has been great in clarifying many questions I didn’t even know I have, so cheers everyone.

Nerobro
Nov 4, 2005

Rider now with 100% more titanium!

gbut posted:

Thanks for the advice. I got into the discord for (unavoidable) questions. *snip*
I’m excited to finally print ABS in large format at some point.

The best and worst part, is you are the warranty. Nothing is exotic on the build, and everything is available from "local" vendors. And the support team speaks your native language with actual understanding.

And when you get your serial, you get let into the actual voron club. That's where the neat stuff is.

deimos
Nov 30, 2006

Forget it man this bat is whack, it's got poobrain!
I have a V2 of theseus (not even the frame) I built a few years ago and have never gotten my serial :v:

E: ohh, ohh, yeah the z motion parts are still original.

My v0 is permanently a caterpillar, got the v0.1 printing immediately wanted mesh and klicky, did that, then said gently caress it I want bed tramming so turned it into a tri zero, might as well turn it into a BoxZero with a Pandora gantry while I am at it... And add canbus. (I then proceeded to fry my canbus and main board and it went into storage because I had stuff to do in that table I had been tinkering on the v0 for 6 months on)

deimos fucked around with this message at 20:45 on Aug 25, 2023

Roundboy
Oct 21, 2008
I love my bambu but my voron still holds a place in my heart. It does it's thing well, and you come out the other side better for the journey

I'm thinking of taking mine down to the basic motion system and giving it a full overhaul.

mattfl
Aug 27, 2004

Fresh belts and a bit of general maintenance on my voron and it's running great again. Found a lot of screws that were just barely tight and just cleaned everything up.

deimos
Nov 30, 2006

Forget it man this bat is whack, it's got poobrain!
Matt, are you running tap? If so what do you think of it vs something like klicky?

Roundboy
Oct 21, 2008
Not matt but I am also running tap and it simplifies a lot of things

There is bit of a problem where there is some flex/movement in the heat sets not holding properly in the current design in a hot chamber.

I haven't had this issue, and I am trying the latest revision (R8). Klicky is cool but it's so much nicer to not worry about offsets or sometimes it not detaching properly. I have no insight on using a smooth plate with it indicating in the same spot over hundreds of prints. But it's been fine for dozens of prints on my textured plate

Acid Reflux
Oct 18, 2004

If anyone else is a Fab365 fan and hadn't seen it yet, they released a 1/72 scale SR-71 Blackbird today. The assembled model should be just about 18" long. I couldn't hit the "buy" button fast enough on it, just started printing the first couple of parts. It's beautiful!

https://fab365.net/items/432

OBAMNA PHONE
Aug 7, 2002
Any real reason to consider a prusa Mk4 over a p1s with ams?

I asked the guy who runs the rapid prototyping lab at work about the three mk3 they use and he said they're the most reliable models out of the entire enterprise (dunno what he's comparing them to) but I'm swayed by the speed, enclosure and ams of the p1s.

I'm only planning to use it for making miscellaneous bullshit, no interest in using it to make money or anything like that. I don't really want to fiddle with fixing the machine I get but I do understand that users have to fiddle with prints to get what they want.

deimos
Nov 30, 2006

Forget it man this bat is whack, it's got poobrain!
Prusa are the gold standard in reliability (at the price range they are at), but the p1s is capable, as a hobby you can't go wrong with it if you're ok with the whole cloud connected aspect of it.

Nerobro
Nov 4, 2005

Rider now with 100% more titanium!

OBAMNA PHONE posted:

Any real reason to consider a prusa Mk4 over a p1s with ams?

I asked the guy who runs the rapid prototyping lab at work about the three mk3 they use and he said they're the most reliable models out of the entire enterprise (dunno what he's comparing them to) but I'm swayed by the speed, enclosure and ams of the p1s.

I'm only planning to use it for making miscellaneous bullshit, no interest in using it to make money or anything like that. I don't really want to fiddle with fixing the machine I get but I do understand that users have to fiddle with prints to get what they want.

I made a post about this.. a couple months back. Shoot, I was able to find it! Here's why you'd buy a Prusa over.. well anything else.

Nerobro posted:

To speak for someone not me:

* It's smaller, so it's easier to move, and you can keep it somewhere smaller.
* it's got better support, through legacy parts and the company itself.
* it's got better parts supply, it is well known, people know the parts, and the company ships fast.
* It's easier to work on, becuase it's an open frame, lighter, and smaller.
* You can print your own replacement parts, as the parts are all released, and often as a gcode file, so you don't even need to slice.
* All the wear parts are generic parts, so if the company can't get you parts, you can get them from a dozen suppliers.
* You're supporting someone who pays back to the community, which helps 3d printing in general.
* You're building yourself into an ecosystem that is continuing to get better, the printers are never really abandoned, there's always upgrade paths, and buying prusa helps everyone else too.
* It has a better extruder.

But that was before the MK4 was released. The Mk4 has AN EVEN BETTER extruder. And the load cell which is about as good as bed sensing gets.

Macichne Leainig
Jul 26, 2012

by VG
Listen, if I can put together a Prusa kit and it works at all, that’s a testament to the reliability of their machines.

It was an ordeal but I also don’t regret it at all.

Ballbot5000
Dec 13, 2008

Fabricati diem, pvnc.
Hey, looking for a little help with my Ender 3 (basic bitch edition).

I decided to make the jump from resin to FDM and Jesus what a loving pain in comparison. I'm using white PLA which I've heard can be a pain but I have 2kg of the stuff so better get it used.

Initially hosed up a couple of boaty tests because I had the layer height at 0.04 because I'm an idiot.

Changed to 0.12, 200/60 temp, retraction slowly up to 8mm at 25mm/s and managed to get a much improved boat with a bit of stringing but no Biggie right? Oh and print speed 50mm/s

Started printing Han Solos gun for a buddy and the small bits print ok with a fair bit of stringing but anything over a couple of hours and the nozzle either becomes clogged or the clot drops onto the model and there is a whole load of gunk inside the plastic hot end cover and molten pla on the hot end.

Any ideas team?

Arcsech
Aug 5, 2008

Ballbot5000 posted:

Started printing Han Solos gun for a buddy and the small bits print ok with a fair bit of stringing but anything over a couple of hours and the nozzle either becomes clogged or the clot drops onto the model and there is a whole load of gunk inside the plastic hot end cover and molten pla on the hot end.

Any ideas team?

When this happened to me, it was because my nozzle wasn’t tight enough and it was leaking molten filament around the edges of the nozzle. Remember to tighten it down when it’s hot, or thermal expansion will kick your butt.

Sagebrush
Feb 26, 2012

made an ABS part the other day that felt pretty strong, but it snapped in use. it had 2.5 mm walls. version 2 has 5mm walls, solid entirely perimeters, and is made of PET. try to break this poo poo :getin:

Ballbot5000
Dec 13, 2008

Fabricati diem, pvnc.

Arcsech posted:

When this happened to me, it was because my nozzle wasn’t tight enough and it was leaking molten filament around the edges of the nozzle. Remember to tighten it down when it’s hot, or thermal expansion will kick your butt.

Ah drat, just popped the nozzle off and it's full of gunk around the thread. Many thanks!

Macichne Leainig
Jul 26, 2012

by VG


So I printed this pen holder/vase thing, and it strung really bad in the middle, but everything else was fine so I just blasted it with a heatgun and postprocessed the print as one does.

Then I turned on the "Travel" checkbox in FlashPrint and noticed that the stringing coincided perfectly with those blue travel lines.

Is this a retraction issue, or something else I hosed up with slicing? Default Flashforge PLA settings on the Voxel Pro/Adventurer 4, and it actually was Flashforge PLA filament that hasn't given me any trouble before either.

It was a solid model so I just took the infill to 0%, set it to 4 shells, and removed the top layers to make it a vase, since vase mode in FlashPrint by itself is kind of limited.

Maybe I'm not searching the right keywords either, but is there a test print that is good for diagnosing these kinds of things, similar to how a temp tower helps you dial in your ideal filament temp?

The Eyes Have It
Feb 10, 2008

Third Eye Sees All
...snookums
Your retractions might be only a problem for a model specifically like this one. Instead of loving with retractions, you could try to just turn on "avoid crossing perimeters" (or whatever your slicer calls it) which will plan nozzle travel to avoid moving across open spaces, therefore not dragging little wisps like you saw.

deimos
Nov 30, 2006

Forget it man this bat is whack, it's got poobrain!
If it started happening recently with the same filament: dry your poo poo.

If it's always been like this then yeah retraction may need calibration. Also search for the slicer setting to not cross boundaries.

But also: dry your poo poo.

The Eyes Have It posted:

Your retractions might be only a problem for a model specifically like this one. Instead of loving with retractions, you could try to just turn on "avoid crossing perimeters" (or whatever your slicer calls it) which will plan nozzle travel to avoid moving across open spaces, therefore not dragging little wisps like you saw.

:sissies:

queeb
Jun 10, 2004

m



I was not prepared for how fast 7 p1ps crush through filament. 20 rolls disappear like nothing. I mean good sign I have so much to print but also lmao gonna be having gently caress loads of pla delivered constantly

Sagebrush
Feb 26, 2012

you can get 5kg rolls, or even bigger, if you go through that much that quickly.

mattfl
Aug 27, 2004

queeb posted:

I was not prepared for how fast 7 p1ps crush through filament. 20 rolls disappear like nothing. I mean good sign I have so much to print but also lmao gonna be having gently caress loads of pla delivered constantly

Check out iiidmax (https://iiidmax.com/) their PLA prints great and when they run their sales you can get rolls for about $10/roll. Last sale me and my brother split a 30 pack and it came to $317/shipped.

The Eyes Have It
Feb 10, 2008

Third Eye Sees All
...snookums
I am pretty sure they've posted about driving carloads of iiidmax across the border before :v:

Macichne Leainig
Jul 26, 2012

by VG
I love how diverse this hobby is.

Here I am happy dinking around with my half dozen rolls of filament and some of y'all are trucking literal carloads around.

On the other hand though if you have 7 P1Ps, you of all people justifiably need a literal carload of filament :colbert:

RabbitWizard
Oct 21, 2008

Muldoon

Ballbot5000 posted:

Any ideas team?
Are you sure with those retraction numbers? You're retracting 8mm@25mm/s, so retracting and de-retracting takes (for a spherical extruder in a vacuum) 64/100 of a second. And filament is flowing out of the nozzle for that time. I use 3mm@50mm/s -> 6/100 of a second. Yes, also Ender3. Only thing that might differ from yours (in this regard) is I shorted my bowden tube a bit.

StrixNebulosa
Feb 14, 2012

You cheated not only the game, but yourself.
But most of all, you cheated BABA

Macichne Leainig posted:

I love how diverse this hobby is.

Here I am happy dinking around with my half dozen rolls of filament and some of y'all are trucking literal carloads around.

On the other hand though if you have 7 P1Ps, you of all people justifiably need a literal carload of filament :colbert:

I love that there’s room for the professionals in here as well as goofball hobbyists like myself. It’s a cool thread!

queeb
Jun 10, 2004

m



Yeah picture me in my little Hyundai accent with an assload of filament in the back, rear bumper dragging sparks along the road to the border. So far they believe it's all for personal use

StrixNebulosa
Feb 14, 2012

You cheated not only the game, but yourself.
But most of all, you cheated BABA

So far I own filament from microcenter’s inland brand in these quantities:

1 black
1 white
1 true red
1 light blue
1 glitter purple

And my dad gave me 20$ to buy a new roll so I’m deciding if I want more matte colors or to try more fancy effects like UV or gradients… hmm…

IncredibleIgloo
Feb 17, 2011





StrixNebulosa posted:

So far I own filament from microcenter’s inland brand in these quantities:

1 black
1 white
1 true red
1 light blue
1 glitter purple

And my dad gave me 20$ to buy a new roll so I’m deciding if I want more matte colors or to try more fancy effects like UV or gradients… hmm…

DEfinitely want to try a gradient one, they are a lot of fun with the cinderwings stuff.

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mattfl
Aug 27, 2004

StrixNebulosa posted:

So far I own filament from microcenter’s inland brand in these quantities:

1 black
1 white
1 true red
1 light blue
1 glitter purple

And my dad gave me 20$ to buy a new roll so I’m deciding if I want more matte colors or to try more fancy effects like UV or gradients… hmm…

Rookie numbers lol



I've since filled up those bottom 2 shelves lol

I do need to get more variety in terms of gradients/sparkle/tri color/etc filaments though.

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