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snail
Sep 25, 2008

CHEESE!

deimos posted:

Prusa are the gold standard in reliability (at the price range they are at), but the p1s is capable, as a hobby you can't go wrong with it if you're ok with the whole cloud connected aspect of it.

At least now there's nothing the cloud offers me that doesn't work in LAN mode on the X1, and the P1 is following along.

As for reliability, well, whatevs, there's no arguing with some people. I don't hugely care, I'm over here still printing models since...

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Roundboy
Oct 21, 2008

StrixNebulosa posted:

So far I own filament from microcenter’s inland brand in these quantities:

1 black
1 white
1 true red
1 light blue
1 glitter purple

And my dad gave me 20$ to buy a new roll so I’m deciding if I want more matte colors or to try more fancy effects like UV or gradients… hmm…

gradient, but not the 5 color one switching every meter or so. the bi colored ones.

AlexDeGruven
Jun 29, 2007

Watch me pull my dongle out of this tiny box


The dual and tri color ones look really cool, especially if your printer does a good job of keeping the filament in a constant alignment.

Macichne Leainig
Jul 26, 2012

by VG
I have one of the dual color silk PLAs in blue/green. Printed a small planter with it, it's kind of neat. It's blue or green depending on how you look at it, and not because of color changing or anything, it's because that's how it laid down the filament - from one angle you see the blue, the other you see the green, and then it's a gradient back and forth, but it is a bit jittery between layers

Roundboy
Oct 21, 2008
also i want to reiterate that the color changing stuff is cool as hell. Temp changing tpu only seems to come in yellow/orange, but people go nuts for the dragon in it.

The UV stuff seems cool too. I want to do a collapsing sword in it with the blade in UV changing.

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002
I’m learning 3D printing to fix… antique radios! You’d be surprised what 70 years can do to early plastics.

Anyway, is an Ender 3 Pro still the budget model recommendation for just starting out? I can build one myself if necessary. I built a laser engraver for my wife and the parts look pretty similar, despite being only 2D.

deimos
Nov 30, 2006

Forget it man this bat is whack, it's got poobrain!

snail posted:

At least now there's nothing the cloud offers me that doesn't work in LAN mode on the X1, and the P1 is following along.

As for reliability, well, whatevs, there's no arguing with some people. I don't hugely care, I'm over here still printing models since...

I have no horse in this race, I own neither.

Ballbot5000
Dec 13, 2008

Fabricati diem, pvnc.

RabbitWizard posted:

Are you sure with those retraction numbers? You're retracting 8mm@25mm/s, so retracting and de-retracting takes (for a spherical extruder in a vacuum) 64/100 of a second. And filament is flowing out of the nozzle for that time. I use 3mm@50mm/s -> 6/100 of a second. Yes, also Ender3. Only thing that might differ from yours (in this regard) is I shorted my bowden tube a bit.

Thanks for the reminder. Those were my numbers but that's because what I perceived to be a severe retraction problem was in fact a pla leaking problem I've reset to 6/50 and will twiddle with that until it's working beautifully.

Samuel L. ACKSYN
Feb 29, 2008


kid sinister posted:

I’m learning 3D printing to fix… antique radios! You’d be surprised what 70 years can do to early plastics.

Anyway, is an Ender 3 Pro still the budget model recommendation for just starting out? I can build one myself if necessary. I built a laser engraver for my wife and the parts look pretty similar, despite being only 2D.


For around $200 I'd look at the Sovol SV06 or the Elegoo Neptune 3 Pro, or for a bit more maybe the Neptune 4. They are both direct drive printers and come with automatic bed leveling systems unlike the ender 3 pro.

I guess there is also the Ender 3 V2 Neo, which has bed leveling (but isn't direct drive) if you really wanted to go with an Ender for whatever reason.


edit - why are there so many ender variants drat creality take it down a notch

Samuel L. ACKSYN fucked around with this message at 15:34 on Aug 27, 2023

Nerobro
Nov 4, 2005

Rider now with 100% more titanium!

kid sinister posted:

I’m learning 3D printing to fix… antique radios! You’d be surprised what 70 years can do to early plastics.

Anyway, is an Ender 3 Pro still the budget model recommendation for just starting out? I can build one myself if necessary. I built a laser engraver for my wife and the parts look pretty similar, despite being only 2D.

So.. you can spend the $100-200 on an ender. Then you're more or less stuck in the 3dp equivalent of pre-DRO and HSS machining. Sure, it works, sure you can make awesome things with it, but YOU need to be part of that equation. Or $300 on a SV07 and jump straight to DRO equipped carbide and high speed spindle.. and never ~need~ to do a thing to it again. Bed tramming, firmware that understands how springy filament can be. Firmware changes that happen ~now~ instead of needing to reflash things.

.... Buy a Sovol SV06 or 07. And never look back. The SV07 has the most modern firmware on it... and it's a luxury I would not avoid. https://sovol3d.com/products/sovol-sv07-klipper-direct-drive-3d-printer-print-speed-250mm-s

Realisticly it's still an ender 3, frame wise. Just it's got everything good people would do to them, already done to it.

ilkhan
Oct 7, 2004

I LOVE Musk and his pro-first-amendment ways. X is the future.

deimos posted:

Matt, are you running tap? If so what do you think of it vs something like klicky?
Built my Trident with tap. Works well.

ilkhan
Oct 7, 2004

I LOVE Musk and his pro-first-amendment ways. X is the future.

kid sinister posted:

I’m learning 3D printing to fix… antique radios! You’d be surprised what 70 years can do to early plastics.

Anyway, is an Ender 3 Pro still the budget model recommendation for just starting out? I can build one myself if necessary. I built a laser engraver for my wife and the parts look pretty similar, despite being only 2D.
If you're between Minneapolis and DSM I need to get around to selling my S1Pro one of these days.

E: quote isn't edit.

Nerobro posted:

So.. you can spend the $100-200 on an ender. Then you're more or less stuck in the 3dp equivalent of pre-DRO and HSS machining. Sure, it works, sure you can make awesome things with it, but YOU need to be part of that equation. Or $300 on a SV07 and jump straight to DRO equipped carbide and high speed spindle.. and never ~need~ to do a thing to it again. Bed tramming, firmware that understands how springy filament can be. Firmware changes that happen ~now~ instead of needing to reflash things.

.... Buy a Sovol SV06 or 07. And never look back. The SV07 has the most modern firmware on it... and it's a luxury I would not avoid. https://sovol3d.com/products/sovol-sv07-klipper-direct-drive-3d-printer-print-speed-250mm-s

Realisticly it's still an ender 3, frame wise. Just it's got everything good people would do to them, already done to it.
You can run an ender with klipper. Been doing it with this S1 since day 1.

ilkhan fucked around with this message at 16:10 on Aug 27, 2023

Nerobro
Nov 4, 2005

Rider now with 100% more titanium!

ilkhan posted:

You can run an ender with klipper. Been doing it with this S1 since day 1.

You sure can. It's also silly to do off the bat when you can spend just a few more dollars and have a ~done~ and ~out of box~ experience. You're looking at a minimum $60 on top of the cost of an ender... and... what's that SV07 cost? And what's your time cost.

ilkhan
Oct 7, 2004

I LOVE Musk and his pro-first-amendment ways. X is the future.

Nerobro posted:

You sure can. It's also silly to do off the bat when you can spend just a few more dollars and have a ~done~ and ~out of box~ experience. You're looking at a minimum $60 on top of the cost of an ender... and... what's that SV07 cost? And what's your time cost.
Was when the S1P first came out, and to avoid having to replace the mobo when I broke the SD reader putting the card in upside down. I have a spare mobo sitting here now. Mostly just noting that you can, the sovol is probably a better idea now. Setup was actually super easy, there are premade printer.cfg profiles for it.

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002
Drawing parts from scratch in FreeCAD when you're trying to match measurements from your digital caliper is MUCH easier when you remember the difference between radius and diameter! :eng101:

Seriously, I was staring at the part in my hand and wondering why the model on screen looked so wide, then I drew a cube and it clicked in my brain.

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002

Nerobro posted:

DRO and HSS machining

What do these mean? Is HSS High Speed Steel? Like what drill bits are made out of?

Here4DaGangBang
Dec 3, 2004

I beat my dick like it owes me money!

kid sinister posted:

What do these mean? Is HSS High Speed Steel? Like what drill bits are made out of?

DRO is digital read out. I only know what I’ve gathered from the odd machining vid on YouTube over the years but AFAIK HSS is high speed steel, yeah.

NewFatMike
Jun 11, 2015

queeb posted:

I was not prepared for how fast 7 p1ps crush through filament. 20 rolls disappear like nothing. I mean good sign I have so much to print but also lmao gonna be having gently caress loads of pla delivered constantly

It might be worth looking into wholesale pricing — I’m sure plenty of places offer it.

Sagebrush
Feb 26, 2012

kid sinister posted:

What do these mean? Is HSS High Speed Steel? Like what drill bits are made out of?

Yes, HSS is high speed steel. A hard tool steel alloy that is designed specifically to retain its hardness at the high temperatures experienced in machining operations.

When nerobro says "pre-DRO [digital readout] and HSS" he means machining where you don't have a direct digital readout of your tool's position, so you have to move it around with careful use of the graduated handwheels and mental math, and your tool is made of high speed steel, which is fine in many situations but inferior in performance to modern tungsten carbide tools.

Basically you don't have the modern convenience features that, while not strictly required to do the work, make everything waaaaay faster and easier.

Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 00:36 on Aug 28, 2023

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002
Just how obsolete are Ender 3s? Because I see quite a few on FB Marketplace that come with filament for around $150-200.

Javid
Oct 21, 2004

:jpmf:
They work perfectly fine if you are capable of manual bed tramming and general mechanical fiddlery. I would maybe haggle on the ones you're seeing +/- upgrades, since it IS an older used printer these days, but some people get way too obsessed with chasing the newest thing they forget printers did work fine before q2 2023

Rexxed
May 1, 2010

Dis is amazing!
I gotta try dis!

kid sinister posted:

Just how obsolete are Ender 3s? Because I see quite a few on FB Marketplace that come with filament for around $150-200.

It depends on what model you mean. The V2 or V2 Neo is still good and pretty new. The Ender 3 and 3 Pro are from 2018. They still make them and you can pick them up for $100-150 at microcenter for new accounts with them pretty often. Microcenter's whole thing is that it's brick and mortar so they get you in the door and use the deal as a loss-leader, knowing that you'll need to buy filament and stuff later. It's similar to their really good processor and motherboard deals (right now there's like a Ryzen 7700X with a motherboard and some ram for $400 or something).

If you're buying new I'd recommend at least the Ender 3 V2 since it has silent steppers and a lot of other upgrades built in, but there are competitors with good machines in a similar price point like elegoo and sovol as noted in earlier posts. The main reason to have an Ender 3 these days is likely that there's many many hundreds of thousands (I assume) out there so there's info about anything that's not working, but it's not going to be that hard to figure out issues with most of the competitors either, since they're all similarly designed and based on the Prusa i3.

tracecomplete
Feb 26, 2017

Rexxed posted:

It depends on what model you mean. The V2 or V2 Neo is still good and pretty new.

They're neither new (the V3 just came out) nor good.

You can get a Neptune 3 Pro for $199, right now and in stock. Don't buy a printer that isn't direct drive. Don't buy a printer that doesn't have automatic bed meshing. Just don't--your time is worth more than that.

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002
One more question: does 3D printing stink? Heating plastic usually does. Will I have to put this in the basement away from the family?

StrixNebulosa
Feb 14, 2012

You cheated not only the game, but yourself.
But most of all, you cheated BABA

kid sinister posted:

One more question: does 3D printing stink? Heating plastic usually does. Will I have to put this in the basement away from the family?

I have been using a Creality Ender-3 S1 and sometimes when I walk into my den where it lives while it's printing, I smell heated plastic. It isn't super strong, but for a moment my brain likes to go "oh god overheating laptop" before I go "oh right". It's not super strong, and usually only happens if I'm doing really long prints.

I also wouldn't call it loud, but it has the noise level of a printer printing - a little less than, but it's noticeable and I wouldn't want it to live in my office or in the dining room or similar.

e: For more details I got my Ender-3 in July as a birthday gift from my fiance :kimchi: and I've been using it for hobby printing. Leveling is a bit finicky and you will want to pay extra attention to your z-offset, but once it's configured, most of my prints come out great! The ones that don't usually have adhesion problems so I slice 'em with a raft or brim - or change up how I'm printing them entirely.

e2: I am using PLA.

StrixNebulosa fucked around with this message at 04:19 on Aug 28, 2023

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002

StrixNebulosa posted:

I have been using a Creality Ender-3 S1 and sometimes when I walk into my den where it lives while it's printing, I smell heated plastic. It isn't super strong, but for a moment my brain likes to go "oh god overheating laptop" before I go "oh right". It's not super strong, and usually only happens if I'm doing really long prints.

Sounds like laser engraving then. You engrave something like wood and there sure is a burning smell. That and it's bright! It's bright enough to be annoying if you're in the same room. You don't even have to look directly at it.

StrixNebulosa
Feb 14, 2012

You cheated not only the game, but yourself.
But most of all, you cheated BABA

Just finished my longest print yet! 14 hours for a flexible dragon:



He’s impossible to photograph but came out basically perfect. Minor stringing, easy to clean up, no issues otherwise. I am thrilled!

Sagebrush
Feb 26, 2012

kid sinister posted:

One more question: does 3D printing stink? Heating plastic usually does. Will I have to put this in the basement away from the family?

PLA, the default plastic you will use, either has no smell or smells mildly of sugar. Like a candy factory or maple syrup. I think it's pleasant.

PETG also either has no smell or is faintly reminiscent of the waxy odor of a candle after you've blown it out. It's not strong and not too bad.

ABS smells like melting plastic or burning rubber. It is sharp and unpleasant.

TPU has no smell, at least in the grades I've used.

Nearly every filament you use will have one of these four plastics as its base.

Resin printers are a whole other kettle of fish. The resin is both noxious and toxic, and opening the lid of the machine will rapidly fill the entire room with a nasty stink. Very different sort of workflow required.

Nerobro
Nov 4, 2005

Rider now with 100% more titanium!

kid sinister posted:

What do these mean? Is HSS High Speed Steel? Like what drill bits are made out of?

Man, didn't figure that would go over many peoples heads here.

Sagebrush posted:

When nerobro says "pre-DRO [digital readout] and HSS" he means machining where you don't have a direct digital readout of your tool's position, so you have to move it around with careful use of the graduated handwheels and mental math, and your tool is made of high speed steel, which is fine in many situations but inferior in performance to modern tungsten carbide tools.

Basically you don't have the modern convenience features that, while not strictly required to do the work, make everything waaaaay faster and easier.

This is exactly what I was getting at. It works. IT can do JUST AS GOOD work. But you're gonna do it at a much reduced output.

kid sinister posted:

Just how obsolete are Ender 3s? Because I see quite a few on FB Marketplace that come with filament for around $150-200.

Their new value is $150. When you can spend $260 and get ~a printer that's got all the bells and whistles~ it shouldn't be a question in your head. If you're asking the question, it's not the deal for you.

kid sinister posted:

One more question: does 3D printing stink? Heating plastic usually does. Will I have to put this in the basement away from the family?

Sagebrush got this all correct.

StrixNebulosa
Feb 14, 2012

You cheated not only the game, but yourself.
But most of all, you cheated BABA

Terrible power: I could print an entire murder



8-bit Miniboss
May 24, 2005

CORPO COPS CAME FOR MY :filez:
It's cute and I love it.

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002
Well shoot. I was all set to buy the Sovol SV07 and I see on Sovol's home page that the SV07 :siren: PLUS :siren: is being released in a few hours. I wonder if it will be worth it?

edit: I was looking at the specs and it just appears to be larger, with a larger print volume? Is that it?

And what the hell is up with this stupid boat? I've seen this on 3 different sites now and I've only been looking at 3D printers for 3 days now.

kid sinister fucked around with this message at 21:15 on Aug 28, 2023

Methylethylaldehyde
Oct 23, 2004

BAKA BAKA

mattfl posted:

Rookie numbers lol



I've since filled up those bottom 2 shelves lol

I do need to get more variety in terms of gradients/sparkle/tri color/etc filaments though.

With that much filament, I wonder how economical it would be to just store it in a grow tent and put a dehumidifier in it to keep it all at like 10% humidity.

kid sinister posted:

Well shoot. I was all set to buy the Sovol SV07 and I see on Sovol's home page that the SV07 :siren: PLUS :siren: is being released in a few hours. I wonder if it will be worth it?

edit: I was looking at the specs and it just appears to be larger, with a larger print volume? Is that it?

And what the hell is up with this stupid boat? I've seen this on 3 different sites now and I've only been looking at 3D printers for 3 days now.


That stupid boat is basically a stress/torture test for the printer. It's small, prints quick, and has basically every feature you need to test to see if your printer is set up right, and if your print settings are correct. Being able to print a benchy faster/better/cleaner/etc is one of the easiest ways to test and describe to people how good your printer is. A Prusa Mk3+ can print a benchy in like 45 minutes, the mk4 can do it in 35 minutes, and the X1C can do it in 24 minutes.

Methylethylaldehyde fucked around with this message at 21:42 on Aug 28, 2023

mewse
May 2, 2006

kid sinister posted:

Well shoot. I was all set to buy the Sovol SV07 and I see on Sovol's home page that the SV07 :siren: PLUS :siren: is being released in a few hours. I wonder if it will be worth it?

edit: I was looking at the specs and it just appears to be larger, with a larger print volume? Is that it?

And what the hell is up with this stupid boat? I've seen this on 3 different sites now and I've only been looking at 3D printers for 3 days now.


The plus is just larger build volume afaik, yeah. That boat is called benchy - it has overhangs and features that used to print really badly on old 3d printers, printing a nice benchy is kind of a rite of passage

BlackIronHeart
Aug 2, 2004

PROCEED

kid sinister posted:

And what the hell is up with this stupid boat? I've seen this on 3 different sites now and I've only been looking at 3D printers for 3 days now.


You take that back! Benchy isn't stupid! https://www.3dbenchy.com/

Nerobro
Nov 4, 2005

Rider now with 100% more titanium!

kid sinister posted:


And what the hell is up with this stupid boat? I've seen this on 3 different sites now and I've only been looking at 3D printers for 3 days now.

Because it's not stupid. The bow overhang tests overhang perfomance, and cooling. That's where you'll see poor cooling first. The sides of the hull is smooth, so you can easily spot ringing. There's a logo on the back of the hull that is legible in only the best tuned printers. The logo on the bottom tests your first layer performance. The hole on the bottom of the stern tests horizontal holes. There's a flagpole hole in the transom that shows small hole performance. The hawspipes on the bow also trigger ringing. The lip on the edge of the gunwales test overhangs as well, but hey're small. The smokestack tests short layer times and concentricity. The posts that hold up the roof test stringing. The deck to gunwale joint often leaves a line on the outside, which helps you tune extrusion. The inside of the cabin tests bridging. The roof of the bridge tests shallow angles.

It's a VERY extensive test for a printer, and doesn't use a lot of material.

Bondematt
Jan 26, 2007

Not too stupid

BlackIronHeart posted:

You take that back! Benchy isn't stupid!

3D Printers: You take that back! Benchy isn't stupid!

StrixNebulosa
Feb 14, 2012

You cheated not only the game, but yourself.
But most of all, you cheated BABA

kid sinister posted:

And what the hell is up with this stupid boat? I've seen this on 3 different sites now and I've only been looking at 3D printers for 3 days now.

Benchy is THE gold standard on finding out how well your printer can do certain things.

Unfortunately I also think it looks silly, so I've only printed one so far. I much prefer this:



https://www.printables.com/model/209121-cali-dragon

(note that 90% of my prints are hobby / artwork, and I don't need precision --- but benchy is there, so when my partner wants me to print him a hinge for a computer, I can do it properly!)

Methylethylaldehyde
Oct 23, 2004

BAKA BAKA

Bondematt posted:

3D Printers: You take that back! Benchy isn't stupid!

3D Printers: You take that back! Benchy isn't stupid!

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Nerobro
Nov 4, 2005

Rider now with 100% more titanium!

StrixNebulosa posted:

Unfortunately I also think it looks silly, so I've only printed one so far. I much prefer this:



https://www.printables.com/model/209121-cali-dragon

IT's cute, and is an ok sanity check. But it lacks the symmetry that is key for seeing side based problems. It also lacks the extrusion sanity checks. That needs flat surfaces and infill interactions.

... (I like it too. But It's a thing I'd use for filament samples)

I personally hate that the benchy, doesn't work as a boat.

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