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Sirotan
Oct 17, 2006

Sirotan is a seal.


I bought the Costco gutter covers last fall and still haven't gotten them installed. :negative:

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Vim Fuego
Jun 1, 2000



Ultra Carp
Is there a consensus on who makes the best cabinet paint?

I'm planning on using oil based but if water based gives an equivalent result then I'll use that.

I am waffling between brushing it on and spraying. I know spray gives a better finish but the cabinets are installed in the kitchen and there's a lot more masking required for spraying in there vs brushing.

petit choux
Feb 24, 2016

Vim Fuego posted:

Is there a consensus on who makes the best cabinet paint?

I'm planning on using oil based but if water based gives an equivalent result then I'll use that.

I am waffling between brushing it on and spraying. I know spray gives a better finish but the cabinets are installed in the kitchen and there's a lot more masking required for spraying in there vs brushing.

I need to be convinced oil-based isn't superior in every way to any form of latex.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

petit choux posted:

I need to be convinced oil-based isn't superior in every way to any form of latex.

It doesn't stink as much and cleans up easier. For a lot of applications it's just not necessary. Not going to hurt to use oil anyway, but may as well make your life easier. Living room walls? Yeah, latex is gonna be just fine.

Painting cabinets is not one of these scenarios. It's a tough wear area and a huge PITA to do so use the absolute best stuff that will last the longest and that's pretty much always going to be the oil based one.

petit choux
Feb 24, 2016

Motronic posted:

It doesn't stink as much and cleans up easier. For a lot of applications it's just not necessary. Not going to hurt to use oil anyway, but may as well make your life easier. Living room walls? Yeah, latex is gonna be just fine.

Painting cabinets is not one of these scenarios. It's a tough wear area and a huge PITA to do so use the absolute best stuff that will last the longest and that's pretty much always going to be the oil based one.

Yeah, agreed on all counts.

Vim Fuego
Jun 1, 2000



Ultra Carp
Ok I'm convinced to use oil. Does anyone recommend a particular brand/product of oil based cabinet paint?

Sash!
Mar 16, 2001


Shifty Pony posted:

Cultivate an apocalyptic religion which considers putting anything other than water, soap, bodily waste, and toilet paper into the drains to be the ultimate sin.

Every successful plunging requires that an effigy of the Wipe Demon be cast into a fiery trash bin to ensure the blessings of the plumbing gods.

https://youtu.be/0i6Vovo-r6c?t=23

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter

Vim Fuego posted:

Is there a consensus on who makes the best cabinet paint?

I'm planning on using oil based but if water based gives an equivalent result then I'll use that.

I am waffling between brushing it on and spraying. I know spray gives a better finish but the cabinets are installed in the kitchen and there's a lot more masking required for spraying in there vs brushing.

Oh boy I am looking forward to the type 2 fun you're about to have.

petit choux
Feb 24, 2016

Vim Fuego posted:

Ok I'm convinced to use oil. Does anyone recommend a particular brand/product of oil based cabinet paint?

Does Zinnser make that? You can get it at Lowes, right? They've been highly regarded since before box stores.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Vim Fuego posted:

Ok I'm convinced to use oil. Does anyone recommend a particular brand/product of oil based cabinet paint?

I use Sherwin stuff. Benjamin Moore would be fine too.

If I was doing this job it would be with this: https://www.sherwin-williams.com/homeowners/products/proclassic-alkyd-interior-enamel

I'd be spending a ton of time cleaning and prepping, remove all doors and hardware, paint the cabinet bases with a brush, and then start on the doors somewhere else with an airless sprayer.

Be ready for a couple coats of oil to take a week to cure enough to reassemble and use as cabinets doors safely. That's why I suggest getting the bases painted first while you deal with cleaning and painting the doors, which will take approximately 8 times longer than you ever thought it possibly could.

E: Just looked up Benjamin Moore and it seems that have come up with an alkyd paint that is water based. The alkyd part is the important thing - not the water vs oil.

Motronic fucked around with this message at 18:44 on Sep 12, 2023

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


Vim Fuego posted:

Is there a consensus on who makes the best cabinet paint?

I'm planning on using oil based but if water based gives an equivalent result then I'll use that.

I am waffling between brushing it on and spraying. I know spray gives a better finish but the cabinets are installed in the kitchen and there's a lot more masking required for spraying in there vs brushing.
Sherwin Williams makes some water-based enamels I have been very happy with. I can't remember if what I used on these cabinets was the ProClassic Alkyd enamel or the Emerald Urethane trim enamel. I know I have used both in various places and been happy with them, pretty sure I put the Emerald on the cabinets and they feel really nice and have worn well also, tho they are in my laundry room/pantry not kitchen and so not as much wear and tear as in a kitchen.

petit choux
Feb 24, 2016

I've seldom used quality paint, I worked for a lovely painting company in college and we just used cheap stuff.

Arsenic Lupin
Apr 12, 2012

This particularly rapid💨 unintelligible 😖patter💁 isn't generally heard🧏‍♂️, and if it is🤔, it doesn't matter💁.


Motronic posted:

It doesn't stink as much and cleans up easier. For a lot of applications it's just not necessary. Not going to hurt to use oil anyway, but may as well make your life easier. Living room walls? Yeah, latex is gonna be just fine.

Painting cabinets is not one of these scenarios. It's a tough wear area and a huge PITA to do so use the absolute best stuff that will last the longest and that's pretty much always going to be the oil based one.
I could put up pictures. Our Gary hired a painter who gave all the kitchen one coat in latex in beige, then gave the cabinets and woodwork a white coat on top of it. Every single cabinet has the paint scratched off around the handles, where your nails hit. (And I don't even keep my nails long.) Latex in the kitchen is SIN.

Vim Fuego
Jun 1, 2000



Ultra Carp

Motronic posted:

I use Sherwin stuff. Benjamin Moore would be fine too.

If I was doing this job it would be with this: https://www.sherwin-williams.com/homeowners/products/proclassic-alkyd-interior-enamel

I'd be spending a ton of time cleaning and prepping, remove all doors and hardware, paint the cabinet bases with a brush, and then start on the doors somewhere else with an airless sprayer.

Be ready for a couple coats of oil to take a week to cure enough to reassemble and use as cabinets doors safely. That's why I suggest getting the bases painted first while you deal with cleaning and painting the doors, which will take approximately 8 times longer than you ever thought it possibly could.

E: Just looked up Benjamin Moore and it seems that have come up with an alkyd paint that is water based. The alkyd part is the important thing - not the water vs oil.

Ok, given that I'm going to go with Benjamin Moore Advance:

https://www.benjaminmoore.com/en-us/contractors/job-solutions/project-advice/alkyd-paint
https://www.benjaminmoore.com/en-us/interior-exterior-paints-stains/product-catalog/awiap/advance-interior-paint

I'm much more confident about spraying a water based paint than an oil based. I'll talk to the store employees about how to properly thin it if necessary.

Vim Fuego
Jun 1, 2000



Ultra Carp

Arsenic Lupin posted:

I could put up pictures. Our Gary hired a painter who gave all the kitchen one coat in latex in beige, then gave the cabinets and woodwork a white coat on top of it. Every single cabinet has the paint scratched off around the handles, where your nails hit. (And I don't even keep my nails long.) Latex in the kitchen is SIN.

Lol I painted the cabinets in flat latex white a decade ago. I knew it was wrong but I did it anyway. The carcasses have held up fine. The doors are disgusting

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter

Arsenic Lupin posted:

Latex in the kitchen is SIN.

Don't kink shame me

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Vim Fuego posted:

I'm much more confident about spraying a water based paint than an oil based. I'll talk to the store employees about how to properly thin it if necessary.

Oh, I don't think you'll be thinning it at all. Just wait until you see the consistency.

Vim Fuego
Jun 1, 2000



Ultra Carp

Motronic posted:

Oh, I don't think you'll be thinning it at all. Just wait until you see the consistency.

Yeah, they mention on the website that it's "less viscous" than the oils.

Shifty Pony
Dec 28, 2004

Up ta somethin'


Be sure to thoroughly ventilate the area that the paint is curing in as well, following the paint manufacturer's instructions to the letter. Even then if you have any unvented gas flames (fireplace, heater) or a gas stove be aware that even a small amount of outgassing from oil based paint curing can cause them to have flames with odd colors and make the house smell like diesel fuel.

I know this because I once painted a door with oil based paint, let it cure in a shed for the manufacturer's suggested time, and then moved it into an attached garage to install the hardware on it. That was enough to cause fun smells when I went to cook dinner a few hours later.

Final Blog Entry
Jun 23, 2006

"Love us with money or we'll hate you with hammers!"
I'm on the side of staying away from "true" oil/alkyd paints on cabinets. Lots of odor, slow drying, messy cleanup, and they'll yellow.

The real right answer would be a 1k or 2k waterborne cabinet product from Renner, Milesi, Centurion, or SW's new Gallery Series cabinet paint. Properly applying them (or even getting someone to sell them to you) is going to be a challenge if you're not a pro though. For the DIYer, I'd roll with a waterbased acrylic/alkyd hybrid. Those would be the already mentioned Ben Moore Advance, or SW has two, the ProClassic hybrid version or the Emerald Trim Urethane.

And also as has already been said- prep, prep, prep. For application, I'd pull (and number or label) all of the doors and drawers, remove all the hardware, and spray those in the garage or a makeshift spray booth. Then brush and roll the boxes if you don't want to mask off your entire kitchen to spray them.

brugroffil
Nov 30, 2015
Probation
Can't post for 3 days!
We did SW pro classic hybrid cabinet paint on our kitchen four years ago. It held up great except for one very heavy use spot. It was what the store recommended.

e: there was some premium primer they recommended for cabinets as well, don't recall the specifics though

brugroffil fucked around with this message at 00:36 on Sep 13, 2023

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


Final Blog Entry posted:

I'm on the side of staying away from "true" oil/alkyd paints on cabinets. Lots of odor, slow drying, messy cleanup, and they'll yellow.

The real right answer would be a 1k or 2k waterborne cabinet product from Renner, Milesi, Centurion, or SW's new Gallery Series cabinet paint. Properly applying them (or even getting someone to sell them to you) is going to be a challenge if you're not a pro though. For the DIYer, I'd roll with a waterbased acrylic/alkyd hybrid. Those would be the already mentioned Ben Moore Advance, or SW has two, the ProClassic hybrid version or the Emerald Trim Urethane.

And also as has already been said- prep, prep, prep. For application, I'd pull (and number or label) all of the doors and drawers, remove all the hardware, and spray those in the garage or a makeshift spray booth. Then brush and roll the boxes if you don't want to mask off your entire kitchen to spray them.
Have you used the Gallery series? Looks interesting. My normal lacquer/solvent-based finish supplier (ML Campbell) has some similar waterborne stuff but I haven't tried it yet.

Final Blog Entry
Jun 23, 2006

"Love us with money or we'll hate you with hammers!"

Kaiser Schnitzel posted:

Have you used the Gallery series? Looks interesting. My normal lacquer/solvent-based finish supplier (ML Campbell) has some similar waterborne stuff but I haven't tried it yet.

I've sprayed it a couple of times, but just on some preprimed trim pieces at demos. We were spraying with Graco's new Quick Shot portable sprayer with a low pressure tip. Dried super fast and lays down very nice. Seems very durable just by my casual attempts to abuse a sample piece I made.

Meow Meow Meow
Nov 13, 2010
I painted all my closet built-ins with BM Advance, two years on and it still looks brand new. However, it is a low traffic area compared to a kitchen.

Johnny Truant
Jul 22, 2008




So the torsion spring on my garage door gave up the ghost, wamp wamp. I figured upgrading the garage door opener is a good idea as well, any recs/models or brands to stay away from?

Pretty much just looking for an opener with a numpad at minimum. Smart phone capability is a bonus but def not necessary.

Honestly my plan was to call the A1 garage company here and just see what they had in stock, then have them install it and replace the spring all in one go. Looking to get it done soon since.. well, our garage is the main point of ingress and egress :derp:

devicenull
May 30, 2007

Grimey Drawer

Johnny Truant posted:

So the torsion spring on my garage door gave up the ghost, wamp wamp. I figured upgrading the garage door opener is a good idea as well, any recs/models or brands to stay away from?

Pretty much just looking for an opener with a numpad at minimum. Smart phone capability is a bonus but def not necessary.

Honestly my plan was to call the A1 garage company here and just see what they had in stock, then have them install it and replace the spring all in one go. Looking to get it done soon since.. well, our garage is the main point of ingress and egress :derp:

I'd suggest a belt-drive one over the standard chain-drive ones. We put in a belt-drive one and it's sooo much quieter.

You can get numpads for pretty much anything, that doesn't really need to be a deciding factor.

Johnny Truant
Jul 22, 2008




devicenull posted:

I'd suggest a belt-drive one over the standard chain-drive ones. We put in a belt-drive one and it's sooo much quieter.

You can get numpads for pretty much anything, that doesn't really need to be a deciding factor.

Dope, thanks! Yeah my cursory searching returned every opener with a numpad, lol.

Here's to hoping I can get this resolved Friday :pray: it's real annoying not being able to even open the garage!

Verman
Jul 4, 2005
Third time is a charm right?

Johnny Truant posted:

So the torsion spring on my garage door gave up the ghost, wamp wamp. I figured upgrading the garage door opener is a good idea as well, any recs/models or brands to stay away from?

Pretty much just looking for an opener with a numpad at minimum. Smart phone capability is a bonus but def not necessary.

Honestly my plan was to call the A1 garage company here and just see what they had in stock, then have them install it and replace the spring all in one go. Looking to get it done soon since.. well, our garage is the main point of ingress and egress :derp:

I got a Genie 7155-TKV and its fantastic. I love the features and performance. Its so quiet, even with an old cedar garage door on metal wheels. The belt drive and motor really quiets things down. I really love the security lockout on the button inside the garage so that you never have to worry about someone using your exterior keypad or remotes to open the garage while you're gone (like if you left a car parked outside with a garage door opener). Its a physical switch that locks the opener from operating, great for at night or while you're away and can only be unlocked from the interior pad. I honestly didn't think the wifi capabilities would be of any use to me but I have used it more than I thought. I live in Seattle where things like to walk away. When I'm doing work in my yard and need garage access, its nice to be able to easily open/close it with my phone when I'm not within sight of my garage.

The app usage is great as it notifies me when its opened or closed. I've never given out codes or anything as I just use it for myself. Programming can be a bit finicky but once you get it working its pretty great.

The install was easy as well. A buddy and I put it up in less than an hour. I didn't have to do anything to my door springs though so that might complicate your install.

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter

Johnny Truant posted:

So the torsion spring on my garage door gave up the ghost, wamp wamp. I figured upgrading the garage door opener is a good idea as well, any recs/models or brands to stay away from?

Pretty much just looking for an opener with a numpad at minimum. Smart phone capability is a bonus but def not necessary.

Honestly my plan was to call the A1 garage company here and just see what they had in stock, then have them install it and replace the spring all in one go. Looking to get it done soon since.. well, our garage is the main point of ingress and egress :derp:

My friend installed a wall-mount (mounts to the side and directly drives the rod) opener and I'm sold. I'll be installing one. It was the quietest I've ever heard a garage door operate, and frees up the space above.

Deathlove
Feb 20, 2003

Pillbug
We got a belt-mount recently and it's so drat quiet. Remember to look to see if it's smart-home-accessible, if you're into that.

My query for the HCH hivemind is that we're having to replace our refrigerator, and it's a built-in with panels on the front. The new one is smaller than the old one, so we might have to get new panels made. Does this attached photo tickle anyone's brain on the possible model or location to buy it? The remodel on this kitchen was 2005, so entirely possible it doesn't exist any more but, hey, shooters shoot.

Only registered members can see post attachments!

kreeningsons
Jan 2, 2007

kreeningsons posted:

I want to knock down some walls in the house and was quoted $300 by a structural engineer to come to my house and give me a verbal "yes" or "no" on whether some walls were load bearing or not. The price is fine but is that level of service the norm? He said he wouldn't provide anything written/stamped unless I decided to go with a redesign of a load bearing portion. Never done anything like this before so need a sanity check.

Update:

The good news is that the walls I want to knock down were deemed as non load bearing.

The bad news is that two out of four of them, including the hideous soffit above the kitchen cabinets, have ductwork in them. So a HVAC guy is needed.

The worse news is that the engineer made an offhand comment about my foundation looking like it has been repaired before due to a crack. He said this spot looked like it had a crack because it was out of plane with the rest of the foundation wall, which was repaired and filled in with grout. I'm not sure I believe this. The "crack" looks like it would be in line with the other irregularities on this wall which i assume are seams from the concrete forms, so I always figured this one spot was just especially crappy workmanship, but not a previously repaired crack. The rusty metal thing in the middle of it is a foundation tie/form clip? I really don't know anything about concrete. Anyone else?



e: oh yeah also when I bought this place the home inspector definitely didn't say anything about foundation damage and told me it was all around in great condition.

kreeningsons fucked around with this message at 02:03 on Sep 14, 2023

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


Deathlove posted:

We got a belt-mount recently and it's so drat quiet. Remember to look to see if it's smart-home-accessible, if you're into that.

My query for the HCH hivemind is that we're having to replace our refrigerator, and it's a built-in with panels on the front. The new one is smaller than the old one, so we might have to get new panels made. Does this attached photo tickle anyone's brain on the possible model or location to buy it? The remodel on this kitchen was 2005, so entirely possible it doesn't exist any more but, hey, shooters shoot.


You’re gonna have to get that custom made at a cabinet shop. You might want to just get a stainless fridge and not bother with the panels. It’ll probably be at least a few hundred bucks to get the panels made.

Kaiser Schnitzel fucked around with this message at 03:49 on Sep 14, 2023

Johnny Truant
Jul 22, 2008




Thanks for all the garage opener talk, thread! Got an appointment for Saturday, can't wait to have a functioning garage door and a numpad that.. works :toot:

Vintersorg
Mar 3, 2004

President of
the Brendan Fraser
Fan Club



Quick/dumb question on seeding before winter sets in. I am in Manitoba and who knows when snow will settle in next month if at all. I want to overseed some problematic areas - do I just water the poo poo out of these things or lay it down and let the snow do the rest? Do I need to use some soil too or is that just extra? I had sod put down last year and it worked just about everywhere but some voles or something ruined a couple areas in the winter.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Vintersorg posted:

Quick/dumb question on seeding before winter sets in. I am in Manitoba and who knows when snow will settle in next month if at all. I want to overseed some problematic areas - do I just water the poo poo out of these things or lay it down and let the snow do the rest? Do I need to use some soil too or is that just extra? I had sod put down last year and it worked just about everywhere but some voles or something ruined a couple areas in the winter.

It's time to over seed here in 6b. Windows closing in about a month.

Manitoba is at warmest 4a so I'd guess you're already too late.

The idea is that the new seed needs to germinate (soil temps about 50-ish) and establishes a root system (4-6 weeks) before dormancy. If you don't have that amount of time you're just going to be wasting your time and the seed as it's going to die over winter. So I'd say save it for the springtime.

And yes, when you do over seed you want to water the poo poo out of those areas for at least a week or two. If there are larger bare patches it would help to put down some starting fertilizer (high nitrogen).

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter

kreeningsons posted:

Update:

The good news is that the walls I want to knock down were deemed as non load bearing.

The bad news is that two out of four of them, including the hideous soffit above the kitchen cabinets, have ductwork in them. So a HVAC guy is needed.

The worse news is that the engineer made an offhand comment about my foundation looking like it has been repaired before due to a crack. He said this spot looked like it had a crack because it was out of plane with the rest of the foundation wall, which was repaired and filled in with grout. I'm not sure I believe this. The "crack" looks like it would be in line with the other irregularities on this wall which i assume are seams from the concrete forms, so I always figured this one spot was just especially crappy workmanship, but not a previously repaired crack. The rusty metal thing in the middle of it is a foundation tie/form clip? I really don't know anything about concrete. Anyone else?



e: oh yeah also when I bought this place the home inspector definitely didn't say anything about foundation damage and told me it was all around in great condition.

That just looks like it was formed that way, poorly. It's fine.

Regarding the soffit and ductwork, take a step back and ask yourself why that ductwork is in a soffit rather than anywhere else. Do you already know where it can be re-routed? It is unlikely you can go UP with it, unless you route it all the way up and into an attic or create a new soffit upstairs. Down, across and up might work. It may be an impossible item to overcome and you're going to have a soffit somewhere to get the air where it goes.

kreeningsons
Jan 2, 2007

StormDrain posted:

Regarding the soffit and ductwork, take a step back and ask yourself why that ductwork is in a soffit rather than anywhere else. Do you already know where it can be re-routed? It is unlikely you can go UP with it, unless you route it all the way up and into an attic or create a new soffit upstairs. Down, across and up might work. It may be an impossible item to overcome and you're going to have a soffit somewhere to get the air where it goes.

Oh I definitely think the soffit will have to remain in some form. Without knowing much about hvac, it looks to me like the soffit was originally installed so that they could route the duct in question vertically through the wall separating the kitchen and dining room and then horizontally over to the floor of the upstairs bedroom, and in doing so prevent routing through any exterior walls (which I don’t want to do either). I’m not really keen on routing through the attic either because this room already struggles to stay cool in the summer.

I’m resigned to having the soffit exist in some form permanently, but since we have to reroute the vertical section anyway, I’m hoping there are some options to make it the soffit less intrusive and ugly. One thing I noticed is that the cross section of the duct is only about 25% of the soffit and I don’t believe the duct is running it’s full length either. To be continued with pictures probably.

kreeningsons fucked around with this message at 17:42 on Sep 14, 2023

Sirotan
Oct 17, 2006

Sirotan is a seal.


Sirotan posted:

Your patio post reminded me that I never posted pictures of my deck. They finished it last week. Looks like you already managed to sway the wife's opinion but I think a deck is totally the way to go! ;)

Before:

Now:



Y'all, Polywood patio furniture is awesome. I was hesitant to drop a bunch of money on something sight-unseen, but I am incredibly impressed. Ordered this set from Costco and it was delivered yesterday. It feels like I've added a whole new room on to my house now. Just wish it was the start of summer and not the end of it now.

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


Sirotan posted:

Y'all, Polywood patio furniture is awesome. I was hesitant to drop a bunch of money on something sight-unseen, but I am incredibly impressed. Ordered this set from Costco and it was delivered yesterday. It feels like I've added a whole new room on to my house now. Just wish it was the start of summer and not the end of it now.



That looks great-does the plasticwood it get real hot in the sun? Also your shingles are wild, lol

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StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter

kreeningsons posted:

Oh I definitely think the soffit will have to remain in some form. Without knowing much about hvac, it looks to me like the soffit was originally installed so that they could route the duct in question vertically through the wall separating the kitchen and dining room and then horizontally over to the floor of the upstairs bedroom, and in doing so prevent routing through any exterior walls (which I don’t want to do either). I’m not really keen on routing through the attic either because this room already struggles to stay cool in the summer.

I’m resigned to having the soffit exist in some form permanently, but since we have to reroute the vertical section anyway, I’m hoping there are some options to make it the soffit less intrusive and ugly. One thing I noticed is that the cross section of the duct is only about 25% of the soffit and I don’t believe the duct is running it’s full length either. To be continued with pictures probably.

Oh sure, seems like a good plan then. I'd suspect the soffit was created in a manner to align with something else, like a framed opening or window or door, and if you remove those elements it'll look better smaller and less obtrusive. This gives you an opportunity to insulate that duct as well and get more of the cool air into the room rather than cooling the soffit space. Will it have a noticeable effect? Who's to say, but I do it every chance I get!

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