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cruft
Oct 25, 2007

My Ender 3Dv2's hot end is clogged. Shameful, I know. Yet I feel I'm among friends here.

I started shopping for a replacement, because I have more money than time, and I found that Creality is selling a direct drive extruder for $30, or a replacement hotend for $15.

Why might I want to just replace the hotend and not move to a direct drive? What about this $100 direct drive option? Or another brand? What should I do, thread? Halloween is coming up, so I have to move fast!

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AlexDeGruven
Jun 29, 2007

Watch me pull my dongle out of this tiny box


cruft posted:

My Ender 3Dv2's hot end is clogged. Shameful, I know. Yet I feel I'm among friends here.

I started shopping for a replacement, because I have more money than time, and I found that Creality is selling a direct drive extruder for $30, or a replacement hotend for $15.

Why might I want to just replace the hotend and not move to a direct drive? What about this $100 direct drive option? Or another brand? What should I do, thread? Halloween is coming up, so I have to move fast!

It depends on your use case. One of the challenges with direct drive conversion is greater mass in the print head, which means more vibration/acceleration compensation required. But if you plan on printing finicky or flexible filaments, then DD can be very helpful.

cruft
Oct 25, 2007

AlexDeGruven posted:

It depends on your use case. One of the challenges with direct drive conversion is greater mass in the print head, which means more vibration/acceleration compensation required. But if you plan on printing finicky or flexible filaments, then DD can be very helpful.

That's clear enough. I'll stick with the $15 replacement since the old one lasted me years. Thanks!

ImplicitAssembler
Jan 24, 2013

Rexxed posted:

Uncle Jessy has a video looking at his Prusa XL. Not a full review but a look at it after a few days of use. He does a lot of cosplay helmets so he's got a few large format printers.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Uy-p_C7GRyk

So, the same print was slower and worse quality on the XL compared to the MK4?!?. I know, it's a pre-release, but still.
And no input shaping on the XL?

Black_Plague22
Apr 4, 2006
JA?!

cruft posted:

That's clear enough. I'll stick with the $15 replacement since the old one lasted me years. Thanks!

How badly is it clogged? You should be able to rescue it assuming you don't have a molten blob around your heater and thermistor wires, or your nozzle threading isn't stripped.

Gravitas Shortfall
Jul 17, 2007

Utility is seven-eighths Proximity.


Not sure if this is the right thread, but does anyone know of any good UK-based print services I can throw a file at and say "I need 16 of these little things?" I need some Ikea Blaliden shelf brackets printed but I know nothing about 3D printing.

SubNat
Nov 27, 2008

Here4DaGangBang posted:

Haha, really? Seems a bit cheeky for a brand name when Polyalchemy is a brand of premium filament.. 😮

Well, it's the same as the store name, and I don't think I've ever seen Polyalchemy filament here in Norway, so I imagine it's perfectly fine.
They also have a different one, PolySmart, but I don't buy those because those come on cardboard spools, and I can't be bothered to deal with that for the AMS. (Also I really like the all-translucent spools the Polyalkemi ones come on.)

I'm really tempted to ask them if they'd consider selling refills, honestly. Surely it can't be that big of an ask when they're custom ordering dozens of types of filaments?


e: Also, speaking of software optimizations to stuff like filament waste:
https://www.printables.com/model/582382-bambulab-profile-for-up-to-60-purge-reduction
Someone's rolled out a Bambulab profile that claims to reduce purged filament by ~60%.
It does so by retracting the filament 2cm before cutting and swapping, meaning every single filament change has ~50mm3 less filament that needs to be purged per swap.

I imagine this increases the risk of clogs, but I'm really curious to see how well it works in practice. I imagine it doesn't do this by default because there's a risk of pulling up melted plastic into the cool zone.

SubNat fucked around with this message at 11:06 on Sep 18, 2023

tater_salad
Sep 15, 2007


If be interested in how it works out as well.

queeb
Jun 10, 2004

m



man this iiidmax stuff prints super well, very happy with it for the price point

Listerine
Jan 5, 2005

Exquisite Corpse
It looks like my request for a Bambu labs printer is going through, so wanted to ask if there is a specific slicer I have or should use with it?

8-bit Miniboss
May 24, 2005

CORPO COPS CAME FOR MY :filez:

Listerine posted:

It looks like my request for a Bambu labs printer is going through, so wanted to ask if there is a specific slicer I have or should use with it?

If you intend to use all the features it has, either Bambu Slicer or Orca Slicer.

SubNat
Nov 27, 2008

Orca Slicer, it's essentially SuperSlicer for Bambu Studio, same slicer with some extra options grafted on.

Listerine
Jan 5, 2005

Exquisite Corpse
The chocolate printer has been released.

https://cocoapress.com/products/cocoa-press-3d-chocolate-printer-diy-kit?variant=46771739754789

deimos
Nov 30, 2006

Forget it man this bat is whack, it's got poobrain!

SubNat posted:

Orca Slicer, it's essentially SuperSlicer for Bambu Studio, same slicer with some extra options grafted on.

Closer to prusa than super, SS is a bit behind some features.

w00tmonger
Mar 9, 2011

F-F-FRIDAY NIGHT MOTHERFUCKERS


That's so overkill

You can slap a "good" extruder on any old printer for a few hundred as far as I'm aware.

Will let you do clay, chocolate, cookie dough, whatever your going for really

Nerobro
Nov 4, 2005

Rider now with 100% more titanium!

w00tmonger posted:

That's so overkill

You can slap a "good" extruder on any old printer for a few hundred as far as I'm aware.

Will let you do clay, chocolate, cookie dough, whatever your going for really

I assure you, every failed food printer will tell you what you're missing here. The list isn't long, but every one except cocca press, has failed. And now they're shipping a complete product.

Yeah... This is entirely good. And you need to pay for development costs somehow. And the market is small. And it comes with support.

OBAMNA PHONE
Aug 7, 2002

poo emojis go go go go

tater_salad
Sep 15, 2007


I think barring any more stupidity from UPS I may be able to use my p1s today at some point.
Why no you can't redirect your delivery to a UPS store because it's an option on the we missed you sticker and you even talked to the driver via your doorbell.

No you can't change your delivery because we haven't attempted delivery yet (umm I know I'm not going to be home). Change it on ups my choice... it doesn't even show there.

Sure you can collect it same day from the dist center 10 miles away - phone agent. Lol no way, we close at 5 and trucks stay out much later than that - ups dist center lady.

mattfl
Aug 27, 2004

deimos posted:

Closer to prusa than super, SS is a bit behind some features.

Apparently the guy who wrote/maintains SS recently quit his job and will be developing SS full time starting in a month or two, so hopefully it can start playing catch up with Prusa/Bambu. I love using SS with my Voron but I want tree supports :(

NewFatMike
Jun 11, 2015

Prusa Mini is getting input shaping. I’m so glad my little war horse is getting a big speed upgrade. Firmware is still in alpha.

https://github.com/prusa3d/Prusa-Firmware-Buddy/releases/tag/v5.1.0-alpha1

Zorro KingOfEngland
May 7, 2008

That's fine, Josef. I didn't want input shaping on my XL anyway.

But seriously, updates like that are one of the reasons why I'm totally comfortable with the XL being in the state it's in (which is to say, a good printer but maybe not worth the price of entry and the wait time at this juncture).

Not happy about it, but not losing any sleep either.

Macichne Leainig
Jul 26, 2012

by VG
I have considered getting the MK3.5 upgrade kit, Josef, but it's been out of stock on your website every god drat time I look.

Ah well, got a Creality K1 instead because the bad decision train ain't stopping anytime soon. :getin:

BadMedic
Jul 22, 2007

I've never actually seen him heal anybody.
Pillbug
Does anyone have any advice on printing gears specifically? I want to mess around with designing some mechanical stuff, and I'm wondering if there's special consideration around the size of teeth or layers or things like that.
More specifically I'm thinking of designing a 3d printed turntable with a simple 3V motor and some gear reductions.

Macichne Leainig
Jul 26, 2012

by VG
Tramming with fluidd is easy peasy, good lord.



Here's how it was out of the factory:

bird food bathtub
Aug 9, 2003

College Slice

BadMedic posted:

Does anyone have any advice on printing gears specifically? I want to mess around with designing some mechanical stuff, and I'm wondering if there's special consideration around the size of teeth or layers or things like that.
More specifically I'm thinking of designing a 3d printed turntable with a simple 3V motor and some gear reductions.

Pay careful attention to layer line orientation of anything that is going to be under strain. Prints are stronger along the axis where filament is laid down than they are along the axis where one line of filament is bonded to the next. This can throw a pretty good wrinkle in to the design process as you are no longer only considering things like over hangs and such during the slicing process. There may end up being directly opposed considerations in this process that require significant trade offs.

NewFatMike
Jun 11, 2015

BadMedic posted:

Does anyone have any advice on printing gears specifically? I want to mess around with designing some mechanical stuff, and I'm wondering if there's special consideration around the size of teeth or layers or things like that.
More specifically I'm thinking of designing a 3d printed turntable with a simple 3V motor and some gear reductions.

Almost every single involute gear profile generator is trash. Genuinely the only good one I’ve found out of the box is an Onshape custom feature, and it’s still approximate (but good enough).

Also instead of doing math, just download STEP files of the gears you need from McMaster to use for your print.

Zorro KingOfEngland
May 7, 2008

NewFatMike posted:

just download STEP files of the gears you need from McMaster to use for your print.

This is a cheat code for modeling functional parts, highly recommended.

NewFatMike
Jun 11, 2015

Zorro KingOfEngland posted:

This is a cheat code for modeling functional parts, highly recommended.

For other sites, I also recommend 3D Content Central, it’s a Dassault site with a metric ton of first party models from pumps to machining vises.

GrabCAD Community Library is excellent also.

tater_salad
Sep 15, 2007



Lol no they indeed did NOT put it on a truck and it's sitting waiting for pickup. And they can't have the local ups contact me to confirm that they did indeed not put it on a truck because lol.

queeb
Jun 10, 2004

m



Awesome, my mini had been sitting unused since I got my little p1p farm going, I'll dig it out and try out the new firmware and speeds

Nerobro
Nov 4, 2005

Rider now with 100% more titanium!
https://github.com/Audiotronix/Positron_LT

The Positron seems to be an abandoned project. Some community members have developed a mostly 3d printed, lighter weight, easier to build version that still does everything the positron did. It's still early going, but it's better than other.. more mature projects.

BadMedic
Jul 22, 2007

I've never actually seen him heal anybody.
Pillbug

NewFatMike posted:

Also instead of doing math, just download STEP files of the gears you need from McMaster to use for your print.

Cool, thanks. Would it be viable to scale those gears? (assuming the whole sequence is scaled by the same factor, of course)
I should bookmark those other sites too.

Zorro KingOfEngland
May 7, 2008

Anyone have any recommendations on uninterruptible power supplies?

I'm about to embark on series of day-long prints, and I'm not about to waste that much time/filament if I can help it.

Rexxed
May 1, 2010

Dis is amazing!
I gotta try dis!

Zorro KingOfEngland posted:

Anyone have any recommendations on uninterruptible power supplies?

I'm about to embark on series of day-long prints, and I'm not about to waste that much time/filament if I can help it.

If you think you'll have short power interruptions they're worthwhile. If you think you might have a power outage that will last a while you'll want a generator or one of those large power stations. Most UPSes for computers exist to handle short interruptions and will run their estimated maximum load for about five minutes. This is so you can back up your data and shut down safely more than keeping the computer going. That said, using less power will let the UPS run longer, but in that case you want the biggest one you can get.

I've got my 3d printers on some of my old small UPSes, a couple of 685 VA Cyperpowers (with AVR) and the large format on a 1000VA. I believe the 1000VA is rated for 600 Watts max load and the smaller ones are in the 350 Watt range. They work fine for the Monoprice Maker select, Ender 3, and Sunlu S8. One time I tried to run two printers off the same UPS and when both beds were heating it overloaded and turned off, though.

Depending on what you expect to run into for outages, power interrupt resume is useful on the printer itself, but beyond that a medium to large UPS isn't a bad idea if your area has bad power. It may not save you for a large outage, however. I've got a bunch of cyberpower units and a few APC ones.

Zorro KingOfEngland
May 7, 2008

Yeah, I'm more worried about short blips than I am about long outages. If the power goes out for longer than 10 minutes I wasn't gonna be able to save the print anyway.

deimos
Nov 30, 2006

Forget it man this bat is whack, it's got poobrain!

Zorro KingOfEngland posted:

Yeah, I'm more worried about short blips than I am about long outages. If the power goes out for longer than 10 minutes I wasn't gonna be able to save the print anyway.

For my voron, I split the bed from the rest of the electronics and put use the same UPS but on either side (bed gets the surge protection but no battery, the electronics and hotend get the battery). I use a 1500VA battery.

Sockser
Jun 28, 2007

This world only remembers the results!




https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00429N18S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1

I've got a 1500va one running my sovol and two prusas, and an 850va one running my resin printers

My Neptune Max, unfortunately, is freewheeling because that bastard just draws waaaaay too much current for these poor little babies to handle it

Macichne Leainig
Jul 26, 2012

by VG
Yeah I almost got the K1 Max but frankly the increased power draw would be a problem especially with my home's generally not great circuitry.

I have the MK3S, the K1, and a filament dryer all on the same circuit. Any more and I think I'm gonna trip it, not that all three are running full power at the same time often.

I do have a Kill-a-watt so I could measure at least and see...

Roundboy
Oct 21, 2008
Ok I replaced a wonky heater wire on my hotend on the voron, and I can complete a pid tune.

Now I sat down with a fresh super slicer and tried to start making .6 nozzle profiles with . 3 layer height

Using the pla+ I use all the time that is perfectly consistent and new out of the box, running 220, all my stuff is melty. Going down to 190 but now I'm dragging parts off the bed. I have a tap but I'm printing way too low. I feel I need to basically reset my printer. Cfg and start over. Nothing is working as it should :(

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NewFatMike
Jun 11, 2015

BadMedic posted:

Cool, thanks. Would it be viable to scale those gears? (assuming the whole sequence is scaled by the same factor, of course)
I should bookmark those other sites too.

Just use appropriately sized gears and download the files for them. It’s not worth the mental overhead to do other things for a mechanically stable system.

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