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Only issue I had out of the box with the P1S is some of my spools didn't fit the AMS. I printed a TPU lip that adds some lid height and had to take some filament off of a overfilled spool. Most of the filament profiles are really good, but I had an with ASA having an 80% fan max which cause delamination of the layers. Otherwise it's been fantastic.
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Sep 21, 2023 17:53
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Bondematt posted:Only issue I had out of the box with the P1S is some of my spools didn't fit the AMS. Print the hydra mod for the AMS and you won't have anymore issues with spool sizes.
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Sep 21, 2023 17:59
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mattfl posted:Print the hydra mod for the AMS and you won't have anymore issues with spool sizes. Does it fix overfill spools? Like the filament was right up to the rim which dragged on the ams head. Not worried about spool size itself, that TPU lip gets me past anything I've seen.
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Sep 21, 2023 18:02
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Listerine posted:X1C shipping confirmation came in today, so I'm guessing it will arrive sometime next week. I wasn't planning to get it set up right away as I'm overloaded with work, but since I lost one of my printers this week, I'd like to get the X1C rolling as fast as I can so it can pick up the slack; are there any common points in setup that people stumble on and I should look out for? What mattfl said, but also you should expect to need and use wifi and a mobile device for full setup.
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Sep 21, 2023 18:09
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Listerine posted:are there any common points in setup that people stumble on and I should look out for? Make sure you get all of the packing foam out of the enclosure before you print, there was a block of foam in the upper corner that I missed and the print head slammed right into
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Sep 21, 2023 18:28
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well poo poo.. I had my first spool tangle. Was my own fault because I de-spooled the cardboard spool and let it spring a little when I was transferring it. Trying to unspool a little so my 70% print can finish then the rest is hitting the garbage
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Sep 21, 2023 19:00
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The Eyes Have It posted:What mattfl said, but also you should expect to need and use wifi and a mobile device for full setup. This may be problematic, because my office is wired but it's not on wifi. I can connect to a guest network, and there's a secured network that I can figure out how to connect to, but I don't have control over the wifi itself. It should be okay if the printer doesn't have to remain connected all the time to function- I can connect for a setup process and then disconnect, would that be sufficient? This also may be beyond anyone's experience, but I'm working at a university and my department purchased the printer. I'm reviewing the quick start guide and there's a step called Printer Binding that requires the Bambu Handy app, I need to download it and log in to a Bambu account and scan a QR code to bind the printer to a Bambu lab account. Since I didn't create an account at purchase, do I need to somehow track down that info from my purchasing department or do you think I can just make my own account on Bambu's website and bind/register the printer to that?
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Sep 21, 2023 20:52
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Listerine posted:This may be problematic, because my office is wired but it's not on wifi. I can connect to a guest network, and there's a secured network that I can figure out how to connect to, but I don't have control over the wifi itself. It should be okay if the printer doesn't have to remain connected all the time to function- I can connect for a setup process and then disconnect, would that be sufficient? You can create an account it's not tied to your purchase.
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Sep 21, 2023 21:08
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X1C just arrived- shipped Tuesday, so that was pretty fast. I'm a little concerned about this setup with the wifi, I'm not sure if I connect it to the guest wifi if it'll then be discoverable, and the info I found about the locked wifi network says devices need to be encrypted to join. I think worst case scenario, I may need to do the printer registration step somewhere else and then move it to it's permanent home?
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Sep 21, 2023 23:02
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Can you throw up a hotspot with your phone
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Sep 21, 2023 23:13
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Back at it again. Ok I've got a good base layer, but when the model starts printing infill the print nozzle is hitting what it's laying down. Tried manual adjusting z offset while it was running and it was a huge variance, -1.70 to -1.52 just to clear most (not all) of the infill lines. I just don't get why it would show such a solid base layer then gently caress up when doing anything higher.
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Sep 21, 2023 23:21
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I’m trying to switch to PrusaSlicer. Is it possible to have it print with some number of bottom/top/outer walls and infill, and then at a certain height switch to continuous extrusion corkscrew mode?
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Sep 21, 2023 23:26
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Bad Munki posted:I’m trying to switch to PrusaSlicer. You can set the number of bottom solid layers, but otherwise no. You could probably do something whacky with combining gcode from a normal print and a vase print, maybe
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Sep 21, 2023 23:29
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Looking for an FDM printer recommendation. Right now I have an old Monoprice Select Mini v2 and it's fine, but it's slow and loud and has a small print bed (120 mm cubed). I mostly print tabletop gaming terrain and board game organizer boxes. Browsing the recent comments in this thread it seems like Prusa used to be the go-to recommendation but now they're facing good competition from Bambu. How should I go about deciding between the two (or is there a third option I should consider)? I don't really need multi-color printing, but if it's not too much more money for a multi-color model I might get it just to noodle around. It would be located in my office where I work from home, so quiet is a big plus.
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Sep 21, 2023 23:45
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Muir posted:Looking for an FDM printer recommendation. Right now I have an old Monoprice Select Mini v2 and it's fine, but it's slow and loud and has a small print bed (120 mm cubed). I mostly print tabletop gaming terrain and board game organizer boxes. Browsing the recent comments in this thread it seems like Prusa used to be the go-to recommendation but now they're facing good competition from Bambu. How should I go about deciding between the two (or is there a third option I should consider)? I don't really need multi-color printing, but if it's not too much more money for a multi-color model I might get it just to noodle around. It would be located in my office where I work from home, so quiet is a big plus. One of the Bambu offerings, a Neptune 4, or the Sovol SV-07 are going to be the top recommendations anywhere you go, likely
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Sep 22, 2023 00:00
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Holy poo poo! I had the worst luck trying to print a Hylian Shield from LoZ. It just wouldn't come out! No matter what I did, either the print wouldn't stick or I'd get a head crash. I must have failed more than 10 prints. I had a sneaking suspicion that it was the slight curve to the shield laying almost flat to the bed... so I raised the print in Cura off the bed by 5mm. It worked! Printed on the first try. Never underestimate your slicer's ability to gently caress up an almost flat print.
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Sep 22, 2023 00:59
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OBAMNA PHONE posted:Can you throw up a hotspot with your phone Maaaaaaybe. I'm in the middle of the building and cell reception is not so great. But a good idea anyways, thanks for suggesting it.
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Sep 22, 2023 01:18
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Springfield Fatts posted:Back at it again. Ok I've got a good base layer, but when the model starts printing infill the print nozzle is hitting what it's laying down. Tried manual adjusting z offset while it was running and it was a huge variance, -1.70 to -1.52 just to clear most (not all) of the infill lines. I just don't get why it would show such a solid base layer then gently caress up when doing anything higher. You should not have to do this . Something is off here. Maybe your overextruding or warping off the bed or you are cooling too much .. What material are you printing and what temps are your bed and hotend when you're printing. What printer is this again?
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Sep 22, 2023 02:00
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Sockser posted:One of the Bambu offerings, a Neptune 4, or the Sovol SV-07 are going to be the top recommendations anywhere you go, likely Iirc people are whining about the sv07 board or something. (The 07 has klipper which is nice though )!The 06 seems to still be the general recommendation for starter printers. I had a good time with mine, it did it's job well with some caveats where it needed some.manual adjustment my tuning the z axis level with the screws. Sorry for the double post... mobile makes multi quote not as nice
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Sep 22, 2023 02:04
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tater_salad posted:Iirc people are whining about the sv07 board or something. (The 07 has klipper which is nice though )!The 06 seems to still be the general recommendation for starter printers. Could you explain this a bit? I had an issue with my 06 that might be similar.
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Sep 22, 2023 04:10
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So I would print a bed level test till (those 1-2 layer circles). Until at least one side of the bed was good. Then depending on which side was lower. I'd turn the steppers off and physically turn the screw for the z to adjust that side a tiny bit and reprint the test and see if it improved. I feel like klipper did a better job with abl than sovols marlin.
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Sep 22, 2023 10:23
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Robert Cowan (of battlebots fame) also got his Prusa XL and he's doing some videos about it. First video is 30 minutes of assembly so I'm not watching the whole thing, I don't have an order for it but if folks are interested: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q_zKRm_tIFQ
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Sep 22, 2023 13:20
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tater_salad posted:I'd turn the steppers off and physically turn the screw for the z to adjust that side a tiny bit and reprint the test and see if it improved. Okay I think this is where I'm confused, because I'm not sure on the Sovol 6 which screw this is. Are these the screws holding the bed down or something else?
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Sep 22, 2023 16:14
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Listerine posted:Okay I think this is where I'm confused, because I'm not sure on the Sovol 6 which screw this is. Are these the screws holding the bed down or something else? it's not a screw.. it's a long threaded rods your Z axis sits on. Those long metal threaded rods with the motors attached that go up/down.
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Sep 22, 2023 16:16
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tater_salad posted:it's not a screw.. it's a long threaded rods your Z axis sits on. Those long metal threaded rods with the motors attached that go up/down. Ahhhh, ok. How did you manage to turn that?
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Sep 22, 2023 16:18
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tater_salad posted:You should not have to do this . Something is off here. Maybe your overextruding or warping off the bed or you are cooling too much .. Neptune 4, 220/60c, PLA. I did the extruder calibration and was able to get it within 3mm so I think I'm good there.
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Sep 22, 2023 16:19
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Springfield Fatts posted:Neptune 4, 220/60c, PLA. I did the extruder calibration and was able to get it within 3mm so I think I'm good there. are you noticing that the print warps off the bed or anything? sometimes large flat stuff likes to lift off the bed and gently caress poo poo up. How do calibration cubes print or benchies..
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Sep 22, 2023 16:35
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Listerine posted:Ahhhh, ok. How did you manage to turn that? What they’re referring to is a better way of doing the gantry calibration that it does by default but just slamming the gantry into the top of the frame. You can do a better job by homing, turning off the motors, moving the carriage to one side with the sensor still over the plate, and turning the threaded rod on that side by hand while using your other hand to keep the opposite side rod from turning. Turn it until it’s right on the step where the light on the sensor turns on/off, then move the carriage to the other side and repeat, then repeat the whole thing a couple times. This makes sure the X axis is aligned with the bed better than the default method of slamming it into the top of the frame; it’s more reliable and doesn’t make a horrible noise.
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Sep 22, 2023 17:29
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Quote is not edit
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Sep 22, 2023 17:29
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Arcsech posted:What they’re referring to is a better way of doing the gantry calibration that it does by default but just slamming the gantry into the top of the frame. You can do a better job by homing, turning off the motors, moving the carriage to one side with the sensor still over the plate, and turning the threaded rod on that side by hand while using your other hand to keep the opposite side rod from turning. Turn it until it’s right on the step where the light on the sensor turns on/off, then move the carriage to the other side and repeat, then repeat the whole thing a couple times. This makes sure the X axis is aligned with the bed better than the default method of slamming it into the top of the frame; it’s more reliable and doesn’t make a horrible noise. Oh ok, thanks. I also got the X1C up and running (using the mobile hotspot, thanks so much for the idea Obamna phone. I'm printing a benchy test run and man does this unit vibrate. It looks like everything's printing good, do I need to worry about this much shaking in the long term? Is there anything I should be doing to stabilize it more?
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Sep 22, 2023 19:34
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A cheap paver-and-foam base works pretty well with the X1C.
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Sep 22, 2023 19:54
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I really need to get out to a hardware store this weekend. My MK3S is good with the squash ball feet but the K1 needs a base for sure, especially if I get up to high speeds on it. Plus, y’know, homeowner bullshit I’ve been putting off for too long
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Sep 22, 2023 20:15
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Just toss 4 on a table and let the vibrations from all of them cancel eachother out
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Sep 22, 2023 20:25
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Did my first bit of corrective maintenance on a Bambu P1S today.. The extruder clogged, and also one of the AMS units got a piece of filament stuck inside. Happy to report that the maintenance videos were clear and helpful, and it was absolutely no problem to disassemble all the bits, unclog, and put them back together. (I ended up shortening the length of the PTFE tube on that AMS as well, I think it was a bit too long.)
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Sep 22, 2023 22:58
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queeb posted:Just toss 4 on a table and let the vibrations from all of them cancel eachother out And thus the Creality Grenade was created
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Sep 22, 2023 23:23
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Is there some secret to making sure your prints stick, no matter how tiny the little bits touching the bed are?
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Sep 22, 2023 23:44
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kid sinister posted:Is there some secret to making sure your prints stick, no matter how tiny the little bits touching the bed are? What kind of print bed and material? I have no problems with a textured PEI sheet with your basic PLAs and PETGs. The K1 ships with a smooth bed, and turns brims on by default, but even that seems unnecessary. And now I have a cool otherwise finished print that I have to sit and refinish with a deburring tool 
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Sep 22, 2023 23:47
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I used the glue bingo dabber thing that comes with the p1ps now on a print and it stuck so well I had to struggle to get it unstuck
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Sep 22, 2023 23:52
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Glue stick... or brim. Or both.
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Sep 23, 2023 01:06
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Macichne Leainig posted:What kind of print bed and material? The one that comes with the SV07 is steel coated with a textured finish. I may have to get some glue sticks...
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Sep 23, 2023 01:25
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