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queeb
Jun 10, 2004

m



I'd definitely go with a Neptune or something

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Springfield Fatts
May 24, 2010
Pillbug
I dunno, my Neptune 4 I've had for a month has been a real pain in the rear end to deal with. Easy to set up but tough to get printing reliably, I've been whining in the other 3d print thread about it for a while and burned through half a spool trying to get one goddamn print right and even then there was a pretty bad z-wobble mid-print but at that point I said gently caress it and fixed it in post. There's also some firmware issues I've seen on the discord while trying to diagnose tied to these being the first Klipper based printers for the company that they may have rushed out the door before being fully baked.

Off topic, how do people dispose of their resin bottles? I've got like 6 laying around and don't exactly want to cut them open to cure the resin inside.

hot cocoa on the couch
Dec 8, 2009

Springfield Fatts posted:

I dunno, my Neptune 4 I've had for a month has been a real pain in the rear end to deal with. Easy to set up but tough to get printing reliably, I've been whining in the other 3d print thread about it for a while and burned through half a spool trying to get one goddamn print right and even then there was a pretty bad z-wobble mid-print but at that point I said gently caress it and fixed it in post. There's also some firmware issues I've seen on the discord while trying to diagnose tied to these being the first Klipper based printers for the company that they may have rushed out the door before being fully baked.

Off topic, how do people dispose of their resin bottles? I've got like 6 laying around and don't exactly want to cut them open to cure the resin inside.

gah really? cause yeah there's a neptune 3 pro near me for sale. looks dece and i have enough experience with elegoo equipment now to know it's good. have had like 6 or 7 of their machines now

Springfield Fatts
May 24, 2010
Pillbug
The 3 might be solid, it's had a much longer product life. Honestly the 4 vacillates wildly from "it just works" to weird, niche issues. Like mine assembled perfectly, does all the levelling great, prints bed mesh tests and Benchys perfectly and then when I do to do a file it smashes the nozzle into what its printing regardless of z-hop, temp or speed settings.

Kylaer
Aug 4, 2007
I'm SURE walking around in a respirator at all times in an (even more) OPEN BIDENing society is definitely not a recipe for disaster and anyone that's not cool with getting harassed by CHUDs are cave dwellers. I've got good brain!
The difference between Lychee's lightest autosupports and Anycubic's autosupports is amazing :vince: No sprue trimmer needed.

I am going to print so many tiny mans, tanks, and robots.

w00tmonger
Mar 9, 2011

F-F-FRIDAY NIGHT MOTHERFUCKERS

Kylaer posted:

The difference between Lychee's lightest autosupports and Anycubic's autosupports is amazing :vince: No sprue trimmer needed.

I am going to print so many tiny mans, tanks, and robots.

Lychess light sports wiith low density will get you printing 99% of things is you use a decent resin and have your exposure tuned in

Just a great lil slicer all around

queeb
Jun 10, 2004

m



took a stab at painting some dungeonblocks



love these little things

Sockser
Jun 28, 2007

This world only remembers the results!




hot cocoa on the couch posted:

gah really? cause yeah there's a neptune 3 pro near me for sale. looks dece and i have enough experience with elegoo equipment now to know it's good. have had like 6 or 7 of their machines now

my 3 (max) was printing great, until I started Klipperizing it and loving with different nozzles trying to push as much filament as possible

But as stock, it was great

BlackIronHeart
Aug 2, 2004

PROCEED
I've been very happy with my Neptune 3 Plus and it's mostly stock except for a Hero Me Gen 7 fan mod to make it a little quieter but I do tend to lean on my P1P now that I'm not printing huge Star Wars terrain pieces. That might change soon so I'm sure it'll be back in the swing of things.

Lumpy
Apr 26, 2002

La! La! La! Laaaa!



College Slice
It never fails. I ask for advise here about a thing, and people say "Get an X!" so I order an X, but before my X arrives, someone posts "Oh man, I hate my X and I never have anything but trouble". :ohdear:

hot cocoa on the couch
Dec 8, 2009

Lumpy posted:

It never fails. I ask for advise here about a thing, and people say "Get an X!" so I order an X, but before my X arrives, someone posts "Oh man, I hate my X and I never have anything but trouble". :ohdear:

lol yep. however i think, from here and other reviews, the neptune 3 is solid at the price point

Funzo
Dec 6, 2002



I've got a Neptune 3 Pro and aside from having to re-level it once in a while, it's been practically plug and play. I put a .6 nozzle in it and use it to churn out game terrain and board game organizers.

w00tmonger
Mar 9, 2011

F-F-FRIDAY NIGHT MOTHERFUCKERS

Lumpy posted:

It never fails. I ask for advise here about a thing, and people say "Get an X!" so I order an X, but before my X arrives, someone posts "Oh man, I hate my X and I never have anything but trouble". :ohdear:

You'll be fine lol. It's like any other consumer thing, pretty much every device is an issue for somebody.

90% of 3dprinters are solid nowadays unless they're the kind of "bad" that lights your house on fire

WhiteHowler
Apr 3, 2001

I'M HUGE!

queeb posted:

took a stab at painting some dungeonblocks



love these little things

That looks amazing!

Would you mind giving a quick rundown of how you painted this?

I'm looking at printing a large dungeon for an event I'm running next year, and these look great -- but every time I've tried to paint terrain (home-printed or store-bought) it's turned out terribly.

bird food bathtub
Aug 9, 2003

College Slice

Springfield Fatts posted:

Off topic, how do people dispose of their resin bottles? I've got like 6 laying around and don't exactly want to cut them open to cure the resin inside.

I rigged up a doohickey using some UV LEDs attached to a watch battery holder with a switch. It's a long, thin pair of wires held together by electrical tape with the LED on the end. The primary use is for curing the inside of hollowed models. It does, however, work quite nicely for resin bottles too. Takes a while because it's just a single LED. If you want something stronger there are UV handheld flashlights that are pretty strong and will work faster.

Rexxed
May 1, 2010

Dis is amazing!
I gotta try dis!

WhiteHowler posted:

That looks amazing!

Would you mind giving a quick rundown of how you painted this?

I'm looking at printing a large dungeon for an event I'm running next year, and these look great -- but every time I've tried to paint terrain (home-printed or store-bought) it's turned out terribly.

I'm not the OP but Tomb of 3D Printed Horrors (Fat Dragon games) did a little tutorial for dungeon tile painting recently that looks decent:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oyC_APeSU4M

queeb
Jun 10, 2004

m



I don't like picking out individual bricks on my stuff, it takes a long time, so with those tiles I sent a pic of, they're just spray painted with premier brand primer, but any dark grey will work. Then I took a makeup brush and some moss green paint and did like a slightly heavier than drybrush random all over, then a different brush with a light taupe, then an actual drybrush with a vanilla white to just hit the brick edges.

queeb
Jun 10, 2004

m





coming along nicely!

IncredibleIgloo
Feb 17, 2011





hot cocoa on the couch posted:

lol yep. however i think, from here and other reviews, the neptune 3 is solid at the price point

I love my Neptune 3 so much I ordered a 4 pro, and love that even more.

Beffer
Sep 25, 2007
A couple of years ago i got into dungeons and lasers as good plastic terrain and I’ve enjoyed painting it. But i never use it because the assembly with clips is a pain in the arse.

Dungeon blocks looks like a great solution. I’ve never been tempted to get a filament printer before now.

Springfield Fatts
May 24, 2010
Pillbug
Has anyone tried resizes of the grid? I'm not interested for dungeon stuff but it would be cool to have 6" ones to slap together a wargame table fast. Maybe a different product would work better.

queeb
Jun 10, 2004

m



yeah I thnk something like that I'd just build out individual 6" squares of stuff on an MDF base or something and be able to shuffle in or out pieces like a puzzle.

man this hobby is great

Lumpy
Apr 26, 2002

La! La! La! Laaaa!



College Slice
My Neptune 4 Pro arrives today.... time for me to ask lots of dumb questions!

Does anyone use Lychee for FDM slicing? I have it already, and it has a profile for the printer, so I think it should be fine?

Infill: 5% with Gyroid, unless there are big flat surfaces parallel with the build plate, then go up to ____.

Layer height: It defaults to .2, but if I don't care about quality and just want fast, can I go up to .4 or do I have to change a nozzle or something?

Top / Bottom layers: :iiam:

Speed: By default, its' 250mm/s, which is fast! If I get some "Rapid PLA" I can go up to 500mm/s; has anyone done this? What is the downside? The normal PLA filament says it can only go 100mm/s, so is that correct, or the default 250 the printer wants to do?

Sockser
Jun 28, 2007

This world only remembers the results!




Lumpy posted:


Infill: 5% with Gyroid, unless there are big flat surfaces parallel with the build plate, then go up to ____.
I don't think I ever go above 10, honestly. Just do 3 walls and infill suddenly doesn't matter.

quote:

Layer height: It defaults to .2, but if I don't care about quality and just want fast, can I go up to .4 or do I have to change a nozzle or something?
With a standard 0.4mm nozzle, you can push it all the way to 0.32 but it's kinda dicey, I probably wouldn't do more than .25-.28

quote:

Top / Bottom layers: :iiam:
5/4, probably

quote:

Speed: By default, its' 250mm/s, which is fast! If I get some "Rapid PLA" I can go up to 500mm/s; has anyone done this? What is the downside? The normal PLA filament says it can only go 100mm/s, so is that correct, or the default 250 the printer wants to do?
that 100mm/s is some old outdated bullshit, likely. Filament and speed aren't directly related. 250 is already fast as gently caress, I haven't seen demos of the Neptune running at 500 but I know my Ankermake pretty much killed every print if I tried going to 500.

It's better to have a print finish successfully in twice as much time than fail at 80% quickly, don't sweat speed too much starting out.

WhiteHowler
Apr 3, 2001

I'M HUGE!

queeb posted:

I don't like picking out individual bricks on my stuff, it takes a long time, so with those tiles I sent a pic of, they're just spray painted with premier brand primer, but any dark grey will work. Then I took a makeup brush and some moss green paint and did like a slightly heavier than drybrush random all over, then a different brush with a light taupe, then an actual drybrush with a vanilla white to just hit the brick edges.

Thanks!

So the primer is effectively your "base coat", then you just go lighter and lighter on almost-drybrushing?

That might work well for me, because most of my mini-painting disasters happen when trying to wash something. Either too much pigment, too much water, or going too dark or light on the wash color.

Springfield Fatts
May 24, 2010
Pillbug

Lumpy posted:

Does anyone use Lychee for FDM slicing? I have it already, and it has a profile for the printer, so I think it should be fine?

These other ones were answered pretty well but I was unimpressed with Lychee's FDM slicer, which is a shame because I love the resin one. Especially the supports, which to me the golden standard is still Prusa's organic ones. There's a Prusaslicer profile for the regular 4, it should be fine for your Pro.

Lumpy
Apr 26, 2002

La! La! La! Laaaa!



College Slice

Springfield Fatts posted:

These other ones were answered pretty well but I was unimpressed with Lychee's FDM slicer, which is a shame because I love the resin one. Especially the supports, which to me the golden standard is still Prusa's organic ones. There's a Prusaslicer profile for the regular 4, it should be fine for your Pro.

Oh Lordy that UI :cry:

IncredibleIgloo
Feb 17, 2011





Lumpy posted:

My Neptune 4 Pro arrives today.... time for me to ask lots of dumb questions!

Does anyone use Lychee for FDM slicing? I have it already, and it has a profile for the printer, so I think it should be fine?

Infill: 5% with Gyroid, unless there are big flat surfaces parallel with the build plate, then go up to ____.

Layer height: It defaults to .2, but if I don't care about quality and just want fast, can I go up to .4 or do I have to change a nozzle or something?

Top / Bottom layers: :iiam:

Speed: By default, its' 250mm/s, which is fast! If I get some "Rapid PLA" I can go up to 500mm/s; has anyone done this? What is the downside? The normal PLA filament says it can only go 100mm/s, so is that correct, or the default 250 the printer wants to do?

I used the Elegoo specific Cura version that came with my Neptune 4 pro and used the default NP4 profile and it is the best quality I have ever printed.

Lumpy
Apr 26, 2002

La! La! La! Laaaa!



College Slice

IncredibleIgloo posted:

I used the Elegoo specific Cura version that came with my Neptune 4 pro and used the default NP4 profile and it is the best quality I have ever printed.

I saw that the version on the USB drive was well behind the current, so I got the most recent one, but there was no profile for the 4 Pro. I shall use the older one then! Thanks to you and to everyone else who has put up with me yet again as I enter a new printing realm. This thread made my resin printing experience amazing good, you are all wonderful, wonderful humans. At least I assume you are all humans....

tehsid
Dec 24, 2007

Nobility is sadly overrated.
Intended to post this here. But now here's the crosspost!

tehsid posted:

Trying to knock over as much terrain as I can this week.




Lumpy
Apr 26, 2002

La! La! La! Laaaa!



College Slice
Me a few days ago: "I hope I can figure out this FDM thing :ohdear:"

Me a few minutes ago: Orders 10kg of filament


It's very odd jut being able to touch the print with your hands when it's done though....

Jack-Off Lantern
Mar 2, 2012

Lumpy posted:

Me a few days ago: "I hope I can figure out this FDM thing :ohdear:"

Me a few minutes ago: Orders 10kg of filament


It's very odd jut being able to touch the print with your hands when it's done though....

I hope you have a good storage solution for already opened spools.

Springfield Fatts
May 24, 2010
Pillbug
Yeah I keep hearing about spools going bad by getting moist or something? Is this an issue in printers not in climate controlled areas or will all PLA or whatever eventually have this issue?

Rexxed
May 1, 2010

Dis is amazing!
I gotta try dis!

It can be an issue for all spools, the humidity of the environment likely just makes it take longer the drier it is. I keep most of my opened spools in 1 gallon zip lock freezer bags with a desiccant pack in it. Those bags hold most 1kg spools perfectly. You can also dry filament before printing if you need to.

Kylaer
Aug 4, 2007
I'm SURE walking around in a respirator at all times in an (even more) OPEN BIDENing society is definitely not a recipe for disaster and anyone that's not cool with getting harassed by CHUDs are cave dwellers. I've got good brain!
Is it better to peel supports off before or after curing?

moths
Aug 25, 2004

I would also still appreciate some danger.



Definitely before.

w00tmonger
Mar 9, 2011

F-F-FRIDAY NIGHT MOTHERFUCKERS

1000% before

Kylaer
Aug 4, 2007
I'm SURE walking around in a respirator at all times in an (even more) OPEN BIDENing society is definitely not a recipe for disaster and anyone that's not cool with getting harassed by CHUDs are cave dwellers. I've got good brain!
Much appreciated. Between using Lychee instead of the Anycubic slicer, Siraya ABS-like instead of Anycubic resin, and peeling before curing, I now...am thinking about throwing away various things I printed before making those changes that I haven't removed the supports from, and just reprinting them properly :eng99:

On the upside, I now have 50 of the tiniest of tiny mans, which turned out remarkably detailed for being 6mm scale, all peeled and cured.

I guess now I have to learn how to paint.

hot cocoa on the couch
Dec 8, 2009

Kylaer posted:

I guess now I have to learn how to paint.

loving hate this part. full colour printing cant come soon enough

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Lumpy
Apr 26, 2002

La! La! La! Laaaa!



College Slice

Jack-Off Lantern posted:

I hope you have a good storage solution for already opened spools.

Why would I open a spool except right before I use it, right after the one I'm using runs out? No snark, I just don't know why I'd ever have more than one open.

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