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boneration posted:Well I was waffling between a Sovol and a Neptune 4, but now I've won an Ender 3 S1 Pro in a raffle so I guess that's how she goes. Hopefully I can figure this stuff out. Leaving my resin comfort zone is frightening. It will be refreshingly simple! Also being an Ender it will probably have quite a few mods or upgrades you can tinker with if you so choose. I've definitely fallen into the 3D printer upgrade trap right now. Hope I have enough black PETG for this last print, but it's to move my spool from the back of this K1 to the side so it's not going to be too much. I hope.
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Sep 24, 2023 19:00
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boneration posted:Well I was waffling between a Sovol and a Neptune 4, but now I've won an Ender 3 S1 Pro in a raffle so I guess that's how she goes. Hopefully I can figure this stuff out. Leaving my resin comfort zone is frightening.
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Sep 24, 2023 21:48
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Printed a part on my K1 knowing I was low on this PETG filament. It was just about the perfect amount of filament, there's maybe... 8-10cm left in the reverse Bowden tube. 
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Sep 24, 2023 22:35
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Arcsech posted:Bambu is killer for aesthetic prints, but kind of meh for functional ones. They’re fast but so is my SV06 after I klipperized it; the AMU is their killer app and it’s “only” really good for multicolor printing.  it works fine for PETG/PLA and ABS/HIPS
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Sep 25, 2023 01:10
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What would make a leveling mesh look like this on an Ender 3 V2 with a PEI bed? Could it be the adhesive starting to degrade in the middle of the magnetic sticker? 
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Sep 25, 2023 01:17
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Arcsech posted:
You're going to have to expand on that, because that sounds like total bullshit to me.
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Sep 25, 2023 01:22
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Tiny Timbs posted:What would make a leveling mesh look like this on an Ender 3 V2 with a PEI bed? Could it be the adhesive starting to degrade in the middle of the magnetic sticker? Stock heatbed? Mine was about that bad from day 1. I put some aluminum flashing tape down the sides, but realized pretty quick it was better just to let the bedmesh handle it. It was better with the glass plate, but still had the bow since the glass isn't all that thick.
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Sep 25, 2023 01:42
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ImplicitAssembler posted:You're going to have to expand on that, because that sounds like total bullshit to me. I mean, it’s not bad, I’m not saying Bambu machines are going to give you bad prints, and they’ll sure do it quickly. But compared to an actual toolchanger that can do TPU and abrasive filaments and doesn’t poop tons of expensive specialty filament if you’re using that in a a multi-material print it’s… kind of meh. I’d prefer a dual extruded printer to the Bambu AMS if I wanted to do multi material, myself. I’d say the same thing about the Prusa AMU3 if the drat thing actually existed in a meaningful way.
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Sep 25, 2023 02:28
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I had to do a lot of tweaking to get my X1C printing PLA-CF nicely (mainly stuff about bed temperature and how much to vent the enclosure) but it's super nice now. The stuff I had trouble with was 14+ hour functional part prints. My first bunch of prints shat the bed because of suspected heat creep (resolved with the right amount of enclosure venting), and a problem of the prints curling somewhat & not being flat (bed temp issues, also enclosure temps). Now that I figured out what works it's an easy go-to for something that doesn't need a shitload of heat resistance but does need to be hella tough. Bonus that it comes in colors other than black/charcoal grey. (I just wish the colors were consistent enough to match across spools  )PETG-CF, still haven't nailed that one down yet. Best CF related prints are from my Prusament PC-CF on my MK3 with a NozzleX. Just followed the recommendations and that poo poo Just Worked & the prints look fantastic. 
The Eyes Have It fucked around with this message at 06:26 on Sep 25, 2023 |
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Sep 25, 2023 05:22
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Well, it's still perfectly capable of printing functional prints and can do so to a much larger extent than the XL can. Especially as the XL currently prints slower and worse than the MK4 and at twice the cost of the X1C!.
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Sep 25, 2023 05:27
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Tiny Timbs posted:What would make a leveling mesh look like this on an Ender 3 V2 with a PEI bed? Could it be the adhesive starting to degrade in the middle of the magnetic sticker? The V-rollers under the bed might need to be adjusted? That could be from a bit of play in the bed, allowing it to tilt left/right when being probed.
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Sep 25, 2023 08:22
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Elegoo vs Hatchbox PLA early trip report - I've been printing some board game box inserts and ran out of Hatchbox grey. I switched over to a roll of Elegoo grey and the first print with that is running now. Watching it lay down, it's gooier than the Hatchbox and is laying down more plastic (not sure if that's because of my perceived gooiness metric or because of some diameter variance). The packaging has 205C as the low end printing temp, and I've been printing Hatchbox at 200C so that's what this part is printing with. I can't imagine printing it any hotter given how gooey it is at 200. I'll see how the part comes out (it's just a simple straight walled box) and then I'll print a few test prints and see what I need to tweak. ---- Edit: Some lifting under one corner on the build plate, also looks like maybe there was some impurity in the filament? There's a line of char in the print. It's going to be going to several more hours, and I will likely use it anyway because it's just a box organizer part, but so far this is not a good print at all. Definitely needs different retraction settings, it leaves a small dollop when it starts printing again every time there's a significant print head move. armorer fucked around with this message at 17:02 on Sep 25, 2023 |
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Sep 25, 2023 16:17
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armorer posted:Elegoo vs Hatchbox PLA early trip report - I've been printing some board game box inserts and ran out of Hatchbox grey. I switched over to a roll of Elegoo grey and the first print with that is running now. Watching it lay down, it's gooier than the Hatchbox and is laying down more plastic (not sure if that's because of my perceived gooiness metric or because of some diameter variance). The packaging has 205C as the low end printing temp, and I've been printing Hatchbox at 200C so that's what this part is printing with. I can't imagine printing it any hotter given how gooey it is at 200. Weird, I've gone through probably 20 rolls of Elegoo white for a large project I'm working on and I just use the generic PLA settings on my P1P and I've yet to have any bad prints. I print it at 220 and I get great looking prints.
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Sep 25, 2023 17:19
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mattfl posted:Weird, I've gone through probably 20 rolls of Elegoo white for a large project I'm working on and I just use the generic PLA settings on my P1P and I've yet to have any bad prints. I print it at 220 and I get great looking prints. Yeah, I dunno. I'll play around with it some when this print is done. I'm just using the generic PLA settings in Cura.
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Sep 25, 2023 17:22
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Opened a roll of Elegoo clear PLA this weekend, printed with a GCode file that worked with some sampler or other that I ran out of. Printed fine I like the cardboard spool. I might switch to Elegoo because of that. I don't need a dozen spools piling up in the basement.
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Sep 25, 2023 17:35
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BadMedic posted:The V-rollers under the bed might need to be adjusted? That could be from a bit of play in the bed, allowing it to tilt left/right when being probed. Hmm, that’s an interesting idea. I could believe the other comment about having a warped bed but I feel like I would have noticed before now.
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Sep 25, 2023 17:42
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armorer posted:Yeah, I dunno. I'll play around with it some when this print is done. I'm just using the generic PLA settings in Cura. I found the default settings for PLA in Cura to be kind of low. I had to crank it up to 215 to meet the minimum demand of my Inland filament from Microcenter. Once I figured out that I needed to clean the build plate, it's been smooth sailing ever since.
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Sep 25, 2023 19:26
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I've reached the point that my wife audibly groans whenever a new filament shipment shows up on my doorstep. New hobby is a success?
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Sep 25, 2023 19:33
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Macichne Leainig posted:I've reached the point that my wife audibly groans whenever a new filament shipment shows up on my doorstep. I've reached the point where anytime my wife is ordering anything from Amazon she asks if I need any filament lol
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Sep 25, 2023 19:39
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Hey look I haven't printed with ASA yet and I obviously need 3KG worth of colors to test with. Right?
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Sep 25, 2023 19:42
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kid sinister posted:I found the default settings for PLA in Cura to be kind of low. I had to crank it up to 215 to meet the minimum demand of my Inland filament from Microcenter. Once I figured out that I needed to clean the build plate, it's been smooth sailing ever since. I've been printing Hatchbox PLA with these settings for years. This is actually Elegoo PLA+, not PLA, and from the packaging it wants to be printed hotter than I'm printing it. I'm going to try a hotter print next but it's stringing, has several charred layer lines, and seems very goopy with the current settings so I don't expect it to help.
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Sep 25, 2023 19:52
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armorer posted:I've been printing Hatchbox PLA with these settings for years. This is actually Elegoo PLA+, not PLA, and from the packaging it wants to be printed hotter than I'm printing it. I'm going to try a hotter print next but it's stringing, has several charred layer lines, and seems very goopy with the current settings so I don't expect it to help. PLA+ definitely needs to be run a bit hotter. It's coming out gooey because it's not quite melted enough, and the charred bit and blobs are probably the not-quite-molten filament just dragging bits of old burnt crap out of the hot end. Crank that bad boy right up to like 225 and manually push some filament through the hot end with a little bit of force. That should help clean out the remnants of the lower temp stuff. I've always printed PLA+ at a minimum of 210C on all of my machines, and often 215 or 220 if I wanted to go a little fast. Every printer is different, of course, but don't be afraid to turn up the heat a little bit to see how things work for you.
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Sep 25, 2023 20:16
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Acid Reflux posted:PLA+ definitely needs to be run a bit hotter. It's coming out gooey because it's not quite melted enough, and the charred bit and blobs are probably the not-quite-molten filament just dragging bits of old burnt crap out of the hot end. Right on, well I'll queue up another print in an hour or so when this one finishes and we'll see.
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Sep 25, 2023 20:28
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My voron isn't responding on the webUI and Im getting really tired of this. 
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Sep 25, 2023 21:47
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Brief laser interlude - my Elegoo Phecda 20W showed up today. I'm about halfway through putting it together, and I would like to kick every engineer involved with the X carriage drive system design right squarely in the nards. Repeatedly, and with great vigor. It's definitely sturdy though, I'll give it that. Food break now, gonna start a print afterward as therapy, and then back at it. Thank you for listening.
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Sep 25, 2023 22:25
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ilkhan posted:My voron isn't responding on the webUI and Im getting really tired of this. This happened to me until I configured tls, because I have my browser to try TLS whenever possible so the browser kept trying to switch to TLS when there wasn't any. Before I did that the fix was to change https to http on the browser bar or open it in a new tab.
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Sep 26, 2023 01:56
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Acid Reflux posted:PLA+ definitely needs to be run a bit hotter. It's coming out gooey because it's not quite melted enough, and the charred bit and blobs are probably the not-quite-molten filament just dragging bits of old burnt crap out of the hot end. It's printing much better at 220. Still notably stringier than PLA, but nothing that will be hard to clean off or leave the print fuzzy. I got a little bit of char in a calibration print, but nothing so far on a larger print, so I'm guessing there was still some burned cruft to get unstuck.
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Sep 26, 2023 02:03
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armorer posted:burned cruft  
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Sep 26, 2023 02:38
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No no, not you. No harm meant goon sir.
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Sep 26, 2023 02:48
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armorer posted:No no, not you. No harm meant goon sir. One day I'll write a bot to scrape new posts for my username and reply with smiles. Then Astral will ban me for hammering the server with too many requests.
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Sep 26, 2023 02:51
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Still fighting with this Elegoo PLA+. I got one okay but very stringy print, and then a decent looking print that jammed with an hour left while I was asleep and resulted in bad under-extrusion. I cleared that out and started a new print which looked fine but then also jammed up pretty quickly. I just stripped it down and installed a new nozzle, and am trying again at 225 (Elegoo lists 205-230 for the temp. range). I will also need to tweak the retraction settings though because it's stringy as hell otherwise. Edit: Jammed almost immediately again. Going to reverse tactics and dial back to 210, replace the bowden tubing, and try it again. Maybe I was pushing the temp limits on capricorn tubing? It wasn't jamming before I upped the temps. Edit 2: So far so good. Print looks clean, no charred bits and no notable stringing, although it'll be another few hours until the print when it gets to the part with separate tower-like bits. Edit 3: This print is waaaay better than the previous few. Very little stringing. I would say it's perfect so far but there was one small hiccup. Still a million time better than the last few though armorer fucked around with this message at 23:15 on Sep 26, 2023 |
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Sep 26, 2023 18:30
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For those of you doing multimaterial printing with the Bambu AMS: 1) Any advice on the size of the prime tower? Should I just leave it at stock settings, or is that a waste and I should reduce the size? 2) Should I be worried about tangles when the AMS reverses filament during changes? Is it likely/possible to happen?
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Sep 26, 2023 23:17
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I was cleaning out my 3D printing supply stuff and found a small assortment of brass MK10 nozzles - two each of 0.2mm, 0.3, 0.4, 0.6, and 0.8 - as well as a pair of MK10 heater blocks. I haven't had a printer which takes MK10 hardware for a few years but I guess I made sure I had spare parts. Free to a good home! I'll ship anywhere globally. First to post takes the lot.
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Sep 26, 2023 23:44
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Listerine posted:For those of you doing multimaterial printing with the Bambu AMS: 1) I don't use a traditional prime tower, I use the commands to reduce the poop and just have a small manual tower for the main filament to ensure the poop is wiped off. I haven't had any HIPS poop stick to the nozzle, but did have some ASA that wiped on the tower. Multimaterial prime towers tend to break, since that's kind of the point of asa/hips combo. 2) No, since the AMS spins the spool as it retracts it isn't likely to happen. I've routinely change my filaments and haven't had a tangle yet. Only thing similar is the HIPS I have is overloaded on the spool so it rubs on the AMS head, which meant it couldn't retract properly. AMS threw an error and I just had to remove some filament so it would fit. Some mods might fix this but this was lower effort.
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Sep 27, 2023 00:43
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Bondematt posted:1) I don't use a traditional prime tower, I use the commands to reduce the poop and just have a small manual tower for the main filament to ensure the poop is wiped off. Oh, are you using this: SubNat posted:e: Also, speaking of software optimizations to stuff like filament waste: Or something else? I wouldn't mind reducing the waste if I get into serious multimat printing.
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Sep 27, 2023 00:52
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Interested in the manual tower.
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Sep 27, 2023 01:56
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Listerine posted:For those of you doing multimaterial printing with the Bambu AMS: Depends on what you have going on. At the very least, when you add / change / remove colors from your preview, and set them on your model, you should ALWAYS recalculate the flush volume. Otherwise the model will keep any previous volume which might have previously held a dark green to black (at a much lower flush) and it now holds a black to white, (which needs much more) I am doing fine setting my flush volume to .7 and auto calc from there. If the model is particularly sensitive, i turn off flushing into infill, which means more poop, but less chance of a black infill showing through your pink walls. You can also reduce waste by printing a whole plate of the item. It takes -forever- but 4 color print in place models are not trivial and they are not something you mass produce anyway. You can also print a completely new thing (ideally as tall as your color changes) and specify that as your flush model, and you will get a cool random multicolor object that is better then a square. single extruder, multi material will always have waste, but a model you saved $0.20 in wasted filament on is a total loss if the color bleeds though or did not properly flush. I have a multi color print that actually wastes more then it prints, so i took the time to redo all supports and color options, and ultimately just not print it, as i found alternative ones. The only way it was worth it to me was a plate of 10-12, but that was prone to failure.
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Sep 27, 2023 02:21
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Listerine posted:Oh, are you using this: That's the one. No issues after a couple dozen hours.
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Sep 27, 2023 04:16
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Just chiming in to say that on the heels of some other goon success in this space, and selling a few hundred worth of flexi and other models: I've had my first commission sale for a lightbox I designed and one of my other custom models had it's first sale on cults It's nice not having to worry about licensing/ IP / other people selling the same stuff Hoping to finally quit my job (in 2028)
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Sep 27, 2023 04:27
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tater_salad posted:Interested in the manual tower. You add a cube, adjust the height to match the last filament change, right click it => Flush Options => Flush into print. Have to select the main filament as well. I turn off the prime tower itself. Edit: You can do this for the support filament as well, but it has a tendency to break the same way as the prime tower, since it print with the main filament on any layers without the support filament. I find the poop to be enough for the changeover to support. Bondematt fucked around with this message at 04:56 on Sep 27, 2023 |
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Sep 27, 2023 04:48
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