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So I've got a small deck. The previous, when slapping a coat of paint on everything to sell to a sucker (me), used a kind of paint on the deck that...sucks. It doesn't get great light, and this gets slippery and moldy very quickly. I've tried to use a power washer and a paint remover and nothing. I've got a guy that's done some work on my house that I didn't want to try myself, and he tried to get the paint off and thinks they probably used some kind of spray applicator. He said the only way to get this off would be to sand it. On top of that, no idea how old this deck is. It was built with nails, and they're starting to come out. I recently had a little dinner thing down there and had to nail them all back in, and they've already started popping out again. I want to use this deck more, and have plans, but feel like I need to replace the boards and stain them before I do anything else. The deck itself is about 16x16 feet, and i budgeted it out and replacement boards would be about 550 bucks. So....is this something I can do on my own? I have all the tools, I've never done this before, but I'm pretty sure it would just be pop off old boards and screw in new ones. The foundation is solid; it's just been covered in some hell forsaken paint that turns into a mold covered hell. Im positive I cant afford Trex unless there's a dealer in this thread. Here are some pictures. Basically is this a doable job for someone with middling carpentry skills who feels like he is capable of popping off one board and replacing it with another.  
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Oct 11, 2023 02:44
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| # ? May 30, 2024 06:34 |
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You can do it.
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Oct 11, 2023 02:45
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I’d go one further: if you know someone with a planer you probably wouldn’t need to buy new boards. Those don’t look like they’re in bad shape, and there’s minimal warping from my quick glances
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Oct 11, 2023 02:59
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I’ve been doing deck stuff. I wonder if you’d do better just swapping out the nails for screws and sanding then staining the deck. I just sanded a deck that’s in way worse shape than yours. It was an extreme pain in the rear end but once I was done the wood looked great! Then it rained all weekend lol
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Oct 11, 2023 03:30
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I assume the nails are popping out because the deck boards are flexing up and down, and thus forcing the nails out. Screws wouldn't do that. And yeah, this is grunt work but nothing complicated. Do rent power tools though, you don't want to do this by hand.
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Oct 11, 2023 04:29
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Do it. Install new boards, and screw them down. Get heavy knee padding, or one of those extensions so you can fasten them down from a standing position.
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Oct 11, 2023 04:56
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I'm living in a house with no blinds in any windows outside the bedrooms and I'd like to fix that, cheaply if possible. Some level of insulation would be both cool and good (Florida sucks, you guys) but is not necessary. I've been looking at cellular/honeycomb shades but I thought I'd seek recommendations here. Blinds.com is having a sale right now, as they do every week or so based on what I've seen, so I was wondering if that's a good option. For context this house is being sold in 4 months, so they really only need to look good and operate through the sale because the recent trend in this neighborhood has been gutting down to bare studs and rebuilding as an office (hooray mixed use zoning). The windows have 2.5 inch deep sills and previously had horizontal blinds, so I know they can accommodate almost any treatment. I'm super-comfortable installing blinds as well. The widest treatment would be 54 inches, the narrowest 28.5 and, and all but one window is 49.5 inches long except one at the back that's 62 inches long. I have all my sizes double checked and listed. So my questions are basically: Are modern cellular shades bad for any reason? Is Blinds.com a good place to get window treatments? Does anyone have a better idea?
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Oct 11, 2023 09:30
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poo poo Fuckasaurus posted:I'm living in a house with no blinds in any windows outside the bedrooms and I'd like to fix that, cheaply if possible. Some level of insulation would be both cool and good (Florida sucks, you guys) but is not necessary. I've been looking at cellular/honeycomb shades but I thought I'd seek recommendations here. Blinds.com is having a sale right now, as they do every week or so based on what I've seen, so I was wondering if that's a good option. I've used Blindster in the last two houses I've owned and really liked their faux wood blinds. They have other stuff as well if you want higher end. Any blinds will be better than none for heat reduction, but you'll have much better results if you pair blinds with a UV reducing window film like this. I used that film in an east facing window in my master bedroom and it is a noticable reduction in light and thus temperature.
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Oct 11, 2023 14:16
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Beef Of Ages posted:I've used Blindster in the last two houses I've owned and really liked their faux wood blinds. They have other stuff as well if you want higher end. Any blinds will be better than none for heat reduction, but you'll have much better results if you pair blinds with a UV reducing window film like this. I used that film in an east facing window in my master bedroom and it is a noticable reduction in light and thus temperature. My windows will be a separate post later, they already have UV coating on them and a space inside that I believe is supposed to be filled with argon that has vented on most of them and is now filled with stains and sometimes mildew. I don't expect to fix them but gosh if I could clean between the panes... E: gently caress it let's goooo  Sealed pressure vessels fail in Florida sunlight, news at eleven. Believe it or not, the glass was cleaned yesterday morning and the window is supposed to be fully transparent, that's condensation on the inside as a punishment from God.  There's real actual garbage inside, probably brought in by ants. You can pull the lever that the bat thing is hanging off of in the first pic to cantilever the top down, then release it from the track. Once we get that far I know gently caress all about getting them open and can't find a brand name on any of them. Does anyone recognize these panes in the rear end and know how to pop 'em apart so I can clean the inside (read: fill it with soapy water and make everything infinitely worse)? Every single window with full sun exposure looks more or less like this. Shit Fuckasaurus fucked around with this message at 14:40 on Oct 11, 2023 |
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Oct 11, 2023 14:32
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poo poo Fuckasaurus posted:My windows will be a separate post later, they already have UV coating on them and a space inside that I believe is supposed to be filled with argon that has vented on most of them and is now filled with stains and sometimes mildew. I don't expect to fix them but gosh if I could clean between the panes... Yeah I don’t think you can. I’ve never heard of being able to clean sealed pane windows, you just replace them when that happens
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Oct 11, 2023 14:40
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Dr. Lunchables posted:Yeah I don’t think you can. I’ve never heard of being able to clean sealed pane windows, you just replace them when that happens That's fine, and by fine I mean probably not being done except for this one because it's by far the most visible. Is this the sort of thing I can buy and install myself? Does anyone recognize the brand or know a way to figure it out?
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Oct 11, 2023 14:41
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Yea you don’t open those because they are supposed to be filled with gas and if the seal goes you replace them. Having said that, if you look around you might find a old dude running a glazier shop that looks like it’s been there since the 1920s who will figure it out for you if possible. We had one pane of a window broken and couldn’t find a replacement sash so had it repaired this way. It’s not ideal but it’s ok.
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Oct 11, 2023 14:51
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poo poo Fuckasaurus posted:My windows will be a separate post later, they already have UV coating on them and a space inside that I believe is supposed to be filled with argon that has vented on most of them and is now filled with stains and sometimes mildew. I don't expect to fix them but gosh if I could clean between the panes... You might be able to find a contractor like this nearby - https://www.windowmedics.com/product/residential-solutions/ I don't know if it's a good solution, but it exists.
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Oct 12, 2023 00:40
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I'm having trouble re-seasoning one of my woks (I blame avocado oil), so I'm going to strip it down and start over from bare carbon steel and then season it in the oven. In the past I've let the handles burn a bit when seasoning over a wok burner, but this time I'll be taking off the handle and the helper handle so I can put it in the oven without messing around with damp rags and aluminum foil wrapped around the wood. The helper handle is wood or bamboo tube that two L-shaped pieces of steel rod fit into, with their other ends riveted to the edge of the wok. After twisting the L-shaped pieces a little to remove the helper handle, they're just slightly looser than I'd like. I figure the easiest solution is probably just to tighten up the rivets slightly, but I don't know how to do that. They're round headed solid rivets with the round side inside the bowl of the wok. Any suggestions for how i might go about tightening the rivets just a tad? I obviously never mess with rivets outside of pop rivets, so I have no clue if it's feasible to do with and what I might want to do. Feeling like a dumb rear end in a top hat here, but I figured I'd ask before i started hammering on stuff. I'd rather not drill out and replace the rivet. edit: since i dont feel like dealing with imgur, here's a photo of a similar wok: https://www.reddit.com/r/wok/comments/124s02o/how_to_repair_a_burnt_wok_handle/ Slanderer fucked around with this message at 03:10 on Oct 12, 2023 |
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Oct 12, 2023 02:59
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A picture would help but you tighten a rivet by hammering on the domed end, opposite the head of the rivet. Maybe you need a nail setter and a block of wood because of the way the pan is.
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Oct 12, 2023 03:13
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poo poo Fuckasaurus posted:That's fine, and by fine I mean probably not being done except for this one because it's by far the most visible. Is this the sort of thing I can buy and install myself? Does anyone recognize the brand or know a way to figure it out? The seals have broken down, letting moisture inside. If those are newish (5-10 years or less) they might still be under warranty. Otherwise you can have the panes resealed for $75-100 a pane. Not cheap but far better than replacing the windows. Call around for window repair places and ask about turnaround .. if you’re lucky , you’ll have a place by you that offers same day replacements. If not, just go with whatever is fastest
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Oct 12, 2023 13:38
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Next one on the list and spurred by mention of double bubble insulation: Hot water radiators, most of the pipe run in the basement is insulated with a product that’s a thin foil-something-foil sandwich wrapped on. No idea how old or if it’s applied correctly. It’s all easily accessible so re insulating wouldn’t be hard, but I don’t have a good feel for whether this is actually inadequate and if it is, would it be worth the material cost when I plan on converting it all to pex in the next 5 years.
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Oct 12, 2023 14:16
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the yeti posted:Next one on the list and spurred by mention of double bubble insulation: I don't see how you could possibly get anything near a 5 year payback on what I'm assuming is interior pipe insulation, especially not if they're already insulated, even poorly.
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Oct 12, 2023 14:27
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My in laws had a water leak the other day that they are currently in the process of figuring out and are dealing with moisture abatement contractors. They are in a split level and something in the second floor bathroom leaked through the floor into the lower level bathroom directly below it. They were out of the house for 3 days and at some point water leaked or an ongoing leak into the ceiling finally spilled over and into the bathroom below. We are still figuring that out. Right now they are trying to figure out if they're being taken for a ride and what exactly needs to be torn out/replaced in the lower bathroom. It was not a tremendous amount of water that collected. The bathroom floor is fully tiled with a zero entry shower. Water got into the carpeted hallway and wicked quite a bit further in. Some also seems like it must have gotten between the walls (or all the water flowed that way and most of it ended up in the bathroom) and into the laundry room right next to the bathroom. It was not a large puddle in the laundry and the laundry room is just a concrete floor. The MDF trim got damaged in there. Everything was dried out pretty quickly with fans and normal furnace use. To my eye almost a week later everything appears to be dry in the bathroom. Ceiling and wall drywall was torn down in different spots to find the leak and try to see what sort of damage there was. The wood in the ceiling feels dry to me. Everything feels dry (I know that doesn't mean a lot). All that said, what exactly is a moisture abatement company going to do? They were showing them spots of mold and stuff. Mold under the bathroom door threshold. Mold on sections of wood in the ceiling (probably from it collecting over a period of time). My understanding is generally you need to take down about 2 feet of the drywall at the bottom and make sure everything is dry with fans and dehumidifiers. They were talking like the tile is going to need to get torn out in the floor because it is still reading as wet on a meter. How much of a concern is mold if everything has dried out? They had them turn off the fans to avoid spreading around spores. Kinda seems like bullshit but I am extremely skeptical by nature and I know just enough to be dangerous but not well informed.
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Oct 12, 2023 18:38
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What does their insurance adjuster have to say about the scope of work being proposed?
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Oct 12, 2023 19:30
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Motronic posted:What does their insurance adjuster have to say about the scope of work being proposed? Until they started getting quotes for 5-9k worth of work they were not thinking they would need to deal with insurance which is why I'm trying to figure out if what is being proposed is reasonable.
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Oct 12, 2023 19:54
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Nobody who's not there to inspect the place theme selves is going to be able to give you a real answer. 3 days of leaking sounds pretty bad, but that depends entirely on the volume of the leak. I had a family member have nearly a full house gut to the studs reno done after a 1/2" cold water line failed in an upstairs bathroom when they were away for 5 days.
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Oct 12, 2023 20:06
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Teabag Dome Scandal posted:My in laws had a water leak the other day that they are currently in the process of figuring out and are dealing with moisture abatement contractors. They are in a split level and something in the second floor bathroom leaked through the floor into the lower level bathroom directly below it. They were out of the house for 3 days and at some point water leaked or an ongoing leak into the ceiling finally spilled over and into the bathroom below. We are still figuring that out. Good mitigation contractors go in, remove what is wet & not salvageable, run the correct amount of fans & dehumidifier(s), and periodically check the dehumidifiers (which read humidity) and cease when the interior humidity matches ambient (outside). This looking for mold crap, days & weeks after, is bullshit. If mold's gonna form, it'll do so within 24-48-hours, and if the mit company is on the ball that won't happen. Even if some is found, so long as the aggregate is ten square feet or less, no mold remediation is required/recommended. Beware mitigation companies that also do restoration (rebuilding). They will tear your house apart. DO NOT TOUCH THE TILE FLOOR. Unless it starts to lift or come loose, whatever moisture may be in there (unlikely) will dry out on its own, just like all houses have since the dawn of time. We somehow survived all of human history without mold remediation companies until recently.  Your instincts are correct; it's bullshit. Move on with putting the house back together. But know: if your folks are weighing reporting this, they'll need to do it before any work is done. What the mitigation company did is covered, the adjuster should either review their estimate / scope of work or send it to an audit company to determine if their scope was correct. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 00:51 on Oct 13, 2023 |
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Oct 13, 2023 00:45
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PainterofCrap posted:This looking for mold crap, days & weeks after, is bullshit. 
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Oct 13, 2023 00:48
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Hey all. Looking to see if there are comparable options to this shelving solution. I wanted to get 72" shelves from Home Depot or Lowes and use something like this to create a 3-tier shelf solution but wanted to see if there were other options.
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Oct 13, 2023 07:08
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PainterofCrap posted:Good mitigation contractors go in, remove what is wet & not salvageable, run the correct amount of fans & dehumidifier(s), and periodically check the dehumidifiers (which read humidity) and cease when the interior humidity matches ambient (outside). Thanks for this!
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Oct 13, 2023 07:24
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strategery posted:Hey all. Looking to see if there are comparable options to this shelving solution. I wanted to get 72" shelves from Home Depot or Lowes and use something like this to create a 3-tier shelf solution but wanted to see if there were other options. Cast iron pipe shelving is pretty diy friendly, you can do it with pre surfaced shelves and cast iron pipe and you don't need specialized tools other than a drill or screw gun. You can also get pre surfaced plywood and have the store cut it into three or four 8 ft long shelves and use iron on edge banding.
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Oct 13, 2023 07:53
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strategery posted:Hey all. Looking to see if there are comparable options to this shelving solution. I wanted to get 72" shelves from Home Depot or Lowes and use something like this to create a 3-tier shelf solution but wanted to see if there were other options. These are a similar modular look https://stringfurniture.com/
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Oct 13, 2023 15:00
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The pipes under one of my sinks are "loose" or floppy. They're not leaking or anything, but is there a way to secure them better? They run straight up from the bottom of the cabinet, maybe 3-4" from the back.
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Oct 14, 2023 00:52
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So, the door fell off of the medicine cabinet that we installed 2 years ago when we moved in. The cabinet seemed sturdy, but the failure revealed that it’s made of ¾” MDF and had an 11 lb door mounted to it with 4 screws that go in maybe ⅜” deep. The holes are stripped out a bit now, so the screws don’t get much purchase. Is there anyway to salvage this?
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Oct 14, 2023 18:07
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EPICAC posted:So, the door fell off of the medicine cabinet that we installed 2 years ago when we moved in. The cabinet seemed sturdy, but the failure revealed that it’s made of ¾” MDF and had an 11 lb door mounted to it with 4 screws that go in maybe ⅜” deep. The holes are stripped out a bit now, so the screws don’t get much purchase. Is there anyway to salvage this? Toothpick and wood glue in the hole with the screw.
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Oct 14, 2023 18:11
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Also get aggressive screw anchors. But yeah, toothpicks and wood glue to tighten it up
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Oct 14, 2023 18:13
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EPICAC posted:So, the door fell off of the medicine cabinet that we installed 2 years ago when we moved in. The cabinet seemed sturdy, but the failure revealed that it’s made of ¾” MDF and had an 11 lb door mounted to it with 4 screws that go in maybe ⅜” deep. The holes are stripped out a bit now, so the screws don’t get much purchase. Is there anyway to salvage this? Longer screws plus what motronic said. MDF is terrible at screw-holding
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Oct 14, 2023 18:14
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brugroffil posted:The pipes under one of my sinks are "loose" or floppy. They're not leaking or anything, but is there a way to secure them better? They run straight up from the bottom of the cabinet, maybe 3-4" from the back. Layer 2x4 and plywood to make a block that’s the appropriate size, fasten that to the back of your sink cabinet and use some pipe hangers to secure your pipes to the block Like this 
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Oct 15, 2023 00:33
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Posting here since I couldn't find a general appliances thread... will happy ask there instead if any such thing exists! Wondering if anyone might be able to recommend an over-the-range vent hood for my particular situation? I was very close to pulling the trigger on a Zephyr, but then came to realize that the mounting points are just a bit too wide for where it needs to go. My studs are 16" centers, but the Zephyr seems to want very-nearly-18" center studs... and I'm thinking any sort of dwang is likely out of the question since one of said studs harbors the gas line on it. I've drawn up a nice little diagram below if it happens to help with any ideas on how I might be able to stick with the Zephyr and get around things as they are. Otherwise, I am looking for a reliable, reputably branded 30" wall mount hood (sharp-angled canopy style) in stainless steel, capable of venting outside, ideally around 600 cfm, and able to be mounted on studs with 16" center spacing. Gin_Rummy fucked around with this message at 01:27 on Oct 15, 2023 |
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Oct 15, 2023 01:16
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I have about 90 acres out in the bushes. Is there an easy way to map it out with an iPhone and google maps?
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Oct 15, 2023 02:01
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What do you mean by "map it out"? Do you want to know the contents of the acreage? The borders? The elevation? At what level of detail? I mean, I don't know the answer to any of these, but the question seems a little underspecified 
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Oct 15, 2023 02:07
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Gin_Rummy posted:Posting here since I couldn't find a general appliances thread... will happy ask there instead if any such thing exists! That hood is not expecting to be mounted on 18" centers. That's not a standard construction dimension. I would start with reexamining the cut sheet to figure out what installation method they are looking for. It's very likely intended to be mounted on a plate that is attached across 16" OC studs.
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Oct 15, 2023 02:43
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Motronic posted:That hood is not expecting to be mounted on 18" centers. That's not a standard construction dimension. Unfortunately, the manual makes no mention of a bracket and specifically mentions catching the studs and/or additional framing like a dwang. I was looking at a Zephyr Anzio, which I believe is a ZAN model, with an 8-7/8" distance from centerline on each side. http://docs.zephyronline.com/docs/manuals/anziod_manual.pdf (pg 16)
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Oct 15, 2023 02:50
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Gin_Rummy posted:Unfortunately, the manual makes no mention of a bracket and specifically mentions catching the studs and/or additional framing like a dwang. I was looking at a Zephyr Anzio, which I believe is a ZAN model, with an 8-7/8" distance from centerline on each side. They know studs won't be there and cover that in the note section:  This isn't the type of hood you want to install without properly blocking the mounting section, which is going to require sheetrock work. That's when you would move the gas line to the other side of the stud bay. Hoods of this style are very much not "reno hoods", they are things you design into the kitchen as you're building it, unfortunately. That's the price you pay for sleek/style.
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Oct 15, 2023 03:00
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