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I realize the folding suitcase airbrush booths are all basically (or exactly?) the same product in different sizes, but any red flags on this one: https://www.amazon.com/TOGUSH-Airbrush-Adjustable-Brightness-Professional/dp/B07ZFKLX7K/ref=sr_1_28 I'm on the market and it's $30 cheaper than it's ever been (according to camelx3) thanks to amazon's knock off prime days.
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Oct 11, 2023 17:06
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Looks the same as the one I have. My only issue with it is that the light doesn't turn on separately from the fan.
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Oct 11, 2023 17:25
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No red flags. Just don't expect miracles of air movement or filtration with a portable box.
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Oct 11, 2023 17:32
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Ensign Expendable posted:Looks the same as the one I have. My only issue with it is that the light doesn't turn on separately from the fan. Chuck_D posted:No red flags. Just don't expect miracles of air movement or filtration with a portable box.
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Oct 11, 2023 17:40
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stealie72 posted:Understood. Just want to be able to do detail work at my workbench instead of having to go out to the garage because that's causing pretty annoying bottlenecks in my process. I'll still go out there for things like rattlecanning an entire model with primer. I have an older one with just a single power switch. My biggest gripe with these booths are the cool-white LEDs they use. They cast a very blue tint on your work and are terrible for color perception. I replaced mine almost immediately with warm white strips. It's a fairly quick and simple job if you know how to solder and have regular strip of warm white LEDs. You just pop open the light modules, desolder the wires, peel off the cool white strip, then solder in the warm white strips and pop it back together. As for suction, I spray lacquers between 10-25 psi without a mask and never smell any fumes - even when cleaning the airbrush and pumping lacquer thinner through wide open. That being said, the one I have absolutely cannot move enough air for rattle-can spraying. That's one of those mistakes you only make one time. I did modify mine to run the exhaust through a 4" dryer hose directly outside through a 4" round dryer vent semi-permanently mounted in a window frame. I never used the default exhaust system, so I don't know if that made any difference. I also removed the filters years ago, so I suppose the might give some slight improvement.
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Oct 11, 2023 19:14
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adnam posted:Sorry to bother but let's say I want to get a friend who's into modeling an airbrush, is the Iwata CR still a solid buy? I"m willing to spend a soft $100 or so. I figure he can buy his own compressor but would that still a basic recommendation? Spraygunner's been a pretty reliable place to source my airbrushing crap from over the past couple of years.
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Oct 11, 2023 19:29
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OK, here's my other dumb option. I have plywood, I have furnace filters, and I have like 60 feet of multi-color LED light strip that my kid decided she didn't want in her room. Am I going to get something better if I combine those with a cheap bathroom fan, a flex duct, a cord, and maybe an old light dimmer (to make the fan variable speed) to make my own vent box? Probably come out as a wash money-wise, but will that leave me with something more useful? stealie72 fucked around with this message at 19:35 on Oct 11, 2023 |
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Oct 11, 2023 19:29
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You might not want to use a cheap bathroom fan. You will want a non-combustible fan so that you don't cause a fire or explosion when working with combustible paints. The big advantage of rolling your own is that you could make one that moves more fumes faster while also being much quieter than these mass-produced ones.
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Oct 11, 2023 20:17
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stealie72 posted:Am I going to get something better if I combine those with a cheap bathroom fan The amazon booth above is rated at 9 cubic meters per minute (317 cfm). Bathroom fans are around 50-110 cfm. Assuming the specs on the airbrush booth aren't complete bullshit, even a large bathroom fan will not compare. I had planned on building my own booth like this one years ago: https://vent-works.com/blogs/the-ventilation-blog/15945741-diy-hobby-spray-booth I bought a large squirrel cage fan (I forget the cfm), but ended up giving up on the project. Mainly because my only saw at the time was a radial arm saw and I couldn't figure out a good way to mount and seal the fan to the booth. I guess it depends on your motivation level, but I decided to just buy the amazon booth instead of investing the time in building my own.
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Oct 11, 2023 21:55
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Skunkduster posted:I have an older one with just a single power switch. My biggest gripe with these booths are the cool-white LEDs they use. They cast a very blue tint on your work and are terrible for color perception. I replaced mine almost immediately with warm white strips. It's a fairly quick and simple job if you know how to solder and have regular strip of warm white LEDs. You just pop open the light modules, desolder the wires, peel off the cool white strip, then solder in the warm white strips and pop it back together. Warm white messes with color perception too, it's just not a problem if the ultimate display shelf is in similar lighting. There's a reason quality, purpose-made craft lights make white light. Not saying the booth's lights aren't too blue. I just don't want anyone reading this thread to paint their model in warm light, then take it to a show/contest or something at a venue with fluorescents and suddenly it looks worse. It's basically the arts and crafts version of "train how you fight."
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Oct 11, 2023 22:02
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I got about 4 good years of use out of my fold-up spray booth but eventually all the hinges on the sides had snapped off and it was held together with duct tape, and the plastic it's made of turns out to be quite easily melted by some stronger thinners and airbrush cleaners.
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Oct 11, 2023 22:05
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Yeah I think part of the reason the fluro orange on my 787b faded despite not being stored in the sun is because the light I use for modeling has a uv daylight globe in it which is great for not messing up colour but bad for fluro pigment
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Oct 11, 2023 22:29
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Blue Footed Booby posted:Warm white messes with color perception too, it's just not a problem if the ultimate display shelf is in similar lighting. There's a reason quality, purpose-made craft lights make white light. Not saying the booth's lights aren't too blue. I just don't want anyone reading this thread to paint their model in warm light, then take it to a show/contest or something at a venue with fluorescents and suddenly it looks worse. Yes, that's a very good point! It's possible the lights have gotten better since I bought mine 7-8 years ago. When I say they had a blue tint, they weren't as bad as actual blue LEDs but were far more blue than any of the daylight white LED shoplights in my garage or any fluorescent light I've ever seen. I haven't bought any LED stuff in years, but if they make a daylight white LED strip, I think that would be the way to go. I kind of wonder if some of the serious competitors scout out the venue of the competition beforehand to figure out the color temp of the lights before painting their models. Considering the level of detail and dedication in some of their models, it wouldn't surprise me a bit. Skunkduster fucked around with this message at 00:14 on Oct 12, 2023 |
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Oct 12, 2023 00:11
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Skunkduster posted:I have an older one with just a single power switch. My biggest gripe with these booths are the cool-white LEDs they use. They cast a very blue tint on your work and are terrible for color perception. I replaced mine almost immediately with warm white strips. It's a fairly quick and simple job if you know how to solder and have regular strip of warm white LEDs. You just pop open the light modules, desolder the wires, peel off the cool white strip, then solder in the warm white strips and pop it back together. Yeah it takes a while for mine to clear the room after I use a rattle can. I have a respirator as well so the combination of the two works in the rare case I need it.
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Oct 12, 2023 14:48
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Checked prices on boom-proof fans, checked my laziness, and just ordered the one off amazon. Another success story!
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Oct 12, 2023 16:01
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https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B0CHBBQ6LB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 This came up on the Canadian version of Amazon and I jumped at it because I remain lazy. But not so lazy as to be unable to finish another miniature:   It is a 54mm Norman knight. A bit ahistorical in that heraldry on shields is something that starts to become a trend several decades after this fellow's time period (I am given to understand they displayed identifying symbols on the pennons of their lances) but there was so much space on that shield that I just went for it. The heraldry is that of some extremely distant ancestors of mine and was masked out with Tamiya tape on the shield and then free-handed on the pennon. I have another miniature of a knight from the 14th century that may get a similar treatment as far as heraldry goes though I have not decided. As originally cast, the pennon was integral to the lance but was ridiculously thick for the scale and the lance was not exactly a fantastic cast either-- these are limitations of the medium and not a criticism of the sculptor or caster (though this casting did leave a little to be desired and is not as lovely as the other two that I got from them. I wound up lopping off the top inch or so of the lance, fashioning a replacement out of styrene, using a steel pin and super glue to secure the same and made a new pennon out of a rolling paper that I painted by hand and then bent to give it a more natural hang. I am very happy with the leather bits, which were painted with successive thin coats of washes over a pre-shaded white basecoat. As each layer was so translucent and thin, it made it easy to creep up on the desired colour and also create a finish that showed a lot of wear and character appropriate to the scale. The lance shaft was also painted in this way, as was the wood on the back of the shield. Overall, I selected a fairly limited colour palette for this miniature and at times it felt like that it was perhaps too limited but I am pleased with the end result. Per previous miniatures, I used a mixture of paints from Vallejo Game and Model Colour, Army Painter washes and a little bit of Tamiya pigments.
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Oct 12, 2023 20:58
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Is there a supplier of 1/35 civilian figures for the 1800's and (very early) 1900's? Just about the only thing I can find are 54mm wargaming figures which are charming but pricey for what they are!
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Oct 13, 2023 19:19
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Southern Heel posted:Is there a supplier of 1/35 civilian figures for the 1800's and (very early) 1900's? Just about the only thing I can find are 54mm wargaming figures which are charming but pricey for what they are! I would look at model railroad suppliers for civilian figures in that scale, I think. G scale can encompass 54mm or 1/32. Honestly though, finding 54mm scale figures in and of itself is a bit of a pain. As I have come to discover, it populated by very specific time periods (ACW and earlier, mostly) and precious little outside of that aside from aircrew.
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Oct 13, 2023 19:45
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G scale is 1/22.5 as far as I know? But it’s a fair point!!
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Oct 13, 2023 19:59
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G scale is a magical scale that can be whatever you want it to be
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Oct 13, 2023 21:12
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I'm looking for a recommendation. How should I simulate this burnt out exhaust on an Abrams? I was thinking either lightly airbrush some black paint or maybe dab some black pigment with a brush? Any ideas?
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Oct 14, 2023 01:27
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Black dry pigment
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Oct 14, 2023 01:30
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Tamiya Weathering Masters
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Oct 14, 2023 02:13
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got any toner? because man does that look like the one time i spilled part of a waste toner tank
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Oct 14, 2023 02:35
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Spent part of my day soaking the paint off a car body after the decals lifted from under the clearcoat. I finally decided to visit a local chemical place that sold me 5L of isopropyl alcohol for less than I can buy 500mL from the big box hardware store. This time around I'll do all of the flat black areas before moving onto the rest of the body.
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Oct 14, 2023 06:37
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Southern Heel posted:Is there a supplier of 1/35 civilian figures for the 1800's and (very early) 1900's? Just about the only thing I can find are 54mm wargaming figures which are charming but pricey for what they are! This might sound daft (and might actually be daft) but you could go to Hero Forge, design a few human figures with period appropriate stuff and get them printed at 2X scale which they say is about 1/30? Never actually ordered anything from them but it might be worth a punt if you're desperate.
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Oct 14, 2023 13:43
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Dr. Garbanzo posted:Spent part of my day soaking the paint off a car body after the decals lifted from under the clearcoat. I finally decided to visit a local chemical place that sold me 5L of isopropyl alcohol for less than I can buy 500mL from the big box hardware store. This time around I'll do all of the flat black areas before moving onto the rest of the body. Good luck let us know how it goes. I've always had a lot of trouble stripping car bodies. But that's because I've almost always used lacquer paint (usually Tamiya) and that stuff is tough as nails. Even soaking in 100% alcohol for days wouldn't work for me. The only thing that ever worked for me was using Tamiya lacquer thinner. I was warned that it would mess up the plastic, but I never had any issues. I think it's not as "hot" as generic hardware store lacquer thinner.
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Oct 14, 2023 18:44
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Charliegrs posted:Good luck let us know how it goes. I've always had a lot of trouble stripping car bodies. But that's because I've almost always used lacquer paint (usually Tamiya) and that stuff is tough as nails. Even soaking in 100% alcohol for days wouldn't work for me. The only thing that ever worked for me was using Tamiya lacquer thinner. I was warned that it would mess up the plastic, but I never had any issues. I think it's not as "hot" as generic hardware store lacquer thinner. It’s worked pretty well and took about 6 hours start to finish. I did have to scrub the paint with a stiff toothbrush but it removed everything down to the plastic which included Tamiya primer, zero paints white, Tamiya flat black spray and x22 clear. Only real issues I’ve had stripping paint was not having enough to immerse the body but that’s no longer a problem. Edit: After 6 hours in an ipa bath this is what the body turned out.  I then primed it, masked the body to paint the black sections before remasking to get the body colour on. When I last did this I left the black until the end but messed up the entire body when I peeled the tape off. Instead this time around I thought I'd do the black first as they only have a singular decal that runs across the back and won't be impacted by me masking the black areas to get the clearcoat onto the body.     Also realized I never posted images on what lead to all of this paint stripping and re-painting action. This is what poorly adhered decals, clear that wasn't fully cured despite being left for a week and tamiya tape did to the old decals. Thankfully platz/nunu was able to send me a new set for a not massive price.  Dr. Garbanzo fucked around with this message at 04:58 on Oct 15, 2023 |
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Oct 14, 2023 22:58
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Interior of the TKS tankette. I think at this size and with so many hatches, a full interior is a good balance between nice detail and wasting a hundred hours on bits no one will ever see.
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Oct 18, 2023 19:40
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Backlogtober has inspired me to finally move my modeling stuff out to our backyard shed/office and start working on this 1/48 CAC Boomerang that I haven't touched in a year. I doubt I'll finish it by the end of the month at this pace, but I'm really enjoying modeling again. Currently scratch building cowl flaps, because the resin ones in the kit are poor and don't fit  
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Oct 19, 2023 05:06
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A small update on the Audi that is on round 2 of decals. I've been working slowly because this week has been busy at work and with the quantity of compound curves it takes quite a while to get the decals to sit nicely on the surface. Once the main decals are on it's onto number boards and smaller decals to finish it off ready for clearcoating and then final assembly.   
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Oct 19, 2023 09:00
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Updates! Enjoy some lovely photos!  Got the beaching trolley and fuselage interior together, the interior's a bit minimal but you won't see much when the top's on. I also managed to get those wings together and painted and they haven't fallen apart yet. Currently struggling with the engines which come in a million tiny pieces each, then it's painting/struts/rigging in approximately that order.
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Oct 19, 2023 20:29
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I finished this fellow last weekend:     As per usual, 54mm. It is a Roman Signifer, a cohort standard-bearer. The wolf headdress might be ahistorical in that little archaeological evidence attests to standard bearers of any sort wearing wolf skins-- though bear and lion headdresses show up in sculpture and literary references from ancient sources. In fact, some scholars contend that wolves might have been sacred animals to the Romans and were not to be killed barring extreme circumstances (owing to their association with Romulus and Remus, the legendary founders of the city of Rome). Fearless fucked around with this message at 07:00 on Oct 20, 2023 |
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Oct 20, 2023 06:58
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I was having a nostalgic moment playing some Mechwarrior 2 on dosbox, so I made this: 
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Oct 22, 2023 16:50
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In the course of trying to find out about this thing from the Ukraine thread in D&D: I discovered this:  quote:The 1K17 Szhatie (Russian: 1К17 Сжатие — "Compression") is a self-propelled laser vehicle of Soviet origin. The platform uses a Msta-S chassis with a battery of laser projectors mounted in the turret. It was developed by the Soviet Union in order to disable the optical-electronic equipment of enemy missiles, ground and aerial vehicles. Trumpeter makes a 1:35 kit. 
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Oct 25, 2023 22:50
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That seems like a very expensive target.
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Oct 26, 2023 02:37
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Blue Footed Booby posted:In the course of trying to find out about this thing from the Ukraine thread in D&D: I think it's a BTR-D with 2x 2B9 Vasilek.
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Oct 26, 2023 21:29
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Rudolf Schmidt posted:I think it's a BTR-D with 2x 2B9 Vasilek. The Ukraine thread agrees, so I bet you're right.
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Oct 26, 2023 23:20
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Goons, I don't know if this falls into the purview of this thread, but my daughter has this little guy and she's super bummed that his face and belly are fading. I have some paints but don't want to try and approach this without being able to mask off the edges. Is there any method that would allow me to cut a circle out of some sort of tape material and apply it so that the circle is true and the edges are crisp? 
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Oct 30, 2023 01:12
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A Cricut would do that
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Oct 30, 2023 01:15
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