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We had some recessed lighting installed and a bunch of holes were cut out for access in the ceiling. Is it a fool's errand to try and use the round cutouts to patch the drywall? It seems like a nightmare to try to tape it like that but the electrician suggested using them. Is it better to just cut squares around the holes?
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Oct 19, 2023 21:24
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| # ? May 31, 2024 01:12 |
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Suburban Dad posted:We had some recessed lighting installed and a bunch of holes were cut out for access in the ceiling. Is it a fool's errand to try and use the round cutouts to patch the drywall? It seems like a nightmare to try to tape it like that but the electrician suggested using them. Is it better to just cut squares around the holes? You should absolutely use the cutouts. I'd put a 1x in the hole so you can screw it into the existing drywall and the patches, then cover the entire patch with mesh tape, then use hot mud and a 12" knife to smooth the entire thing in. I'm assuming we're talking 6" or smaller holes.
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Oct 19, 2023 21:49
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Motronic posted:You should absolutely use the cutouts. I'd put a 1x in the hole so you can screw it into the existing drywall and the patches, then cover the entire patch with mesh tape, then use hot mud and a 12" knife to smooth the entire thing in. To clarify this, if you screw a fairing strip of wood across the hole (there will be two screws in the dry wall on each side, like this: code:= = fairing strip ( ) = the hole opening Then you can just screw the round drywall bit you have right into the wood strip. Since you're already mudding it doesn't matter that you have two more holes, just fill them too. code:
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Oct 19, 2023 22:35
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I've done patches before but never something round like that. Mesh over the whole thing? Deal. Thanks for the responses.
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Oct 19, 2023 22:46
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Suburban Dad posted:I've done patches before but never something round like that. Mesh over the whole thing? Deal. Thanks for the responses. Yeah, you're going to have to smooth out from all sides of that patch anyway, so no need to leave a "divot" in the middle. Just let it be the high spot and feather out all around.
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Oct 19, 2023 22:56
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Ask the surveyor. They should be able to give you a map easy-peasy unless they are literally still doing everything with a transit and chains or something. devicenull posted:Get a GPS app on your phone, and place it on each of the stakes and record the position. That'll at least get you within ~50ft or so based on your GPS. Thanks, now I have a few coordinates. How do I plug them into Google Maps to give me a satellite view?
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Oct 22, 2023 02:55
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You should be able to just paste lat/long into maps search to see where that location is.
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Oct 22, 2023 03:09
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Fozzy The Bear posted:Thanks, now I have a few coordinates. How do I plug them into Google Maps to give me a satellite view? https://kmltools.appspot.com/
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Oct 22, 2023 03:10
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:You should be able to just paste lat/long into maps search to see where that location is. I'm trying to make a polygon with multiple lat/longs. It looks like Google Earth might be able to do what I need. Thanks!
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Oct 22, 2023 03:11
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i'm looking to figure out why Time blends well when I die at home versus out and about with car & public
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Oct 23, 2023 00:19
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102223 posted:i'm looking to figure out why Time blends well when I die at home versus out and about with car & public I know what these words mean, but this sentence makes no sense.
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Oct 23, 2023 19:22
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There's no fixing that, fast or otherwise.
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Oct 23, 2023 20:13
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CzarChasm posted:I know what these words mean, but this sentence makes no sense. Glad I'm not the only one.
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Oct 23, 2023 23:29
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I live in a SFH and sound transmits like crazy through it, which is more of an issue than ever now that we have a 2nd kid. I've always lived in like 1890s houses with heavy construction and doors, and even if they were creaky, the sound did not travel much. Now I live in a 1960 house and it seems like you can hear a pin drop across the house with all the doors closed. Anyway I'm wondering what sorts of things I can consider doing to dampen sound transmission throughout the house. I'm aware there might not be an easy fix but I'm willing to get some real work done, I'm just not even sure where to start or where the best bang for my buck might be. A few thoughts: Doors: Heavier doors? (They are single panel shaker style, so pretty thin for most of their area) Is there a way to test out if the doors are the issue? Maybe replace just one and see how much that fixes things in that bedroom? Floors: footsteps seem to propagate through the hardwood floor pretty strongly. there is insulation underneath them but I wonder if there's a way to... add weight to them to dampen that? Is that a thing? Transmission thru walls: no idea what to do on this one short of tearing out and replacing drywall with heavier stuff I'm just wondering how to go about investigating which issue is the key issue, and then, what can be done about it
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Oct 25, 2023 16:42
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Rugs. What you are looking for are rugs. And runners.
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Oct 25, 2023 17:11
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Yeah, rugs with pads underneath will go a long way.
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Oct 25, 2023 17:48
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Wall tapestries.
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Oct 25, 2023 17:52
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alnilam posted:Doors: Heavier doors? (They are single panel shaker style, so pretty thin for most of their area) If I remember correctly doors are rated based on how much sound they dampen and the difference between a hollow core and solid wood is significant. But that will only go so far if the door is surrounded by other less insulated materials. Rugs and to some extent other furnishings make a noticeable difference. Rugs should at least be underneath all your seating and beds just as much for sound dampening as to protect the floors.
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Oct 25, 2023 19:33
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I’m hanging some heavier fixtures in a commercial building that uses metal (aluminum?) studs instead of usual stud wood. Is anchoring stuff onto metal studs any different than anchoring them into wooden studs? For example do they hold less weight or do I need to use different screws when working with metal studs? I usually use GRK cabinet screws and wanted to use them for anchoring onto metal studs, if that would work.
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Oct 25, 2023 22:45
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Yes you will want to use fine thread screws instead of coarse thread screws into steel studs. They carry less than wood, the exact weight will depend on the dimensions, length and thickness of the stud, 25 ga is typical for interior walls, 20 ga can be in bathrooms for backing and tile, 18 or more for exterior walls. The walls may have been designed with the expectation that there would be fixtures if that's typical for where they are, there may be wood or metal backing in the wall between the studs for what you're looking to do. Try knocking on the wall or use a stud finder to see.
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Oct 26, 2023 00:02
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I myself posted about this earlier in the thread, and what I learned was: The truly proper big GC way to do the job is to tear out the drywall, install wood blocking in the places you need to anchor things, and put drywall back up The next best thing is toggle bolts into the metal studs The next next best thing is self-tapping sheet metal screws into the metal studs This may be the blind leading the blind here but just posting what I've recently learned 
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Oct 26, 2023 00:28
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alnilam posted:I myself posted about this earlier in the thread, and what I learned was: Well put. Whoever installed the cabinetry in my MILs apartment should've read this. All the kitchens were installed into metal studs without blocking. It was discovered by the people who came in to repair her collapsed kitchen.
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Oct 26, 2023 00:51
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My front door rubs at the very top. It's gotten worse so you really have to muscle it open. Can I just take it down, chisel the hinge mortises an eighth of an inch, and hang again? Chisel a bit more on the top one? 
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Oct 30, 2023 00:43
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Before you remove material, check to see if the hinges on the door frame are pulling away at all. Typically for a heavy door I’d expect top opposite corner to get more door if it starts sagging. Driving longer screw(s) into the frame could help. I have cases of really long wood screws I use for this purpose.
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Oct 30, 2023 00:53
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Hed posted:Before you remove material, check to see if the hinges on the door frame are pulling away at all. Typically for a heavy door I’d expect top opposite corner to get more door if it starts sagging. Driving longer screw(s) into the frame could help. I have cases of really long wood screws I use for this purpose. Yeah having gone through this experience several times, the first thing to check is if the hinges are pulling away. That is common and can be easily fixed with long screws or the toothpick /dowel trick. If they are tight, the next thing that is way way easier than mortising new hinge placements, is planing a little door material away in the offending corner.
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Oct 30, 2023 01:32
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I think it's house settling - hinge looks good and tight on the wall. I'm leaning away from shaving doorframe for aesthetic reasons - sanding and painting is about my least favorite activity. Then again, hanging doors is a bigger pain in the rear end so I guess I gotta eat at least one frog.
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Oct 30, 2023 02:05
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They may look tight, and still be loose. If after a good cranking, the door is still hitting, you want to trim the edge (e: of the slab). You do not want to mess with the hinge mortises beyond confirming that everything is snugged down. If it is a lot of material, get & use a plane. Watch YT videos or woodworking sites to set the plane blade. If it's less, hit it with a palm sander with 60-grit until it just closes. Wood expands & shrinks with the seasons/weather, so you don't want to remove too much. Wood stretchers are very expensive. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 04:24 on Oct 30, 2023 |
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Oct 30, 2023 03:12
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BrianBoitano posted:I think it's house settling - hinge looks good and tight on the wall. I'm leaning away from shaving doorframe for aesthetic reasons - sanding and painting is about my least favorite activity. Then again, hanging doors is a bigger pain in the rear end so I guess I gotta eat at least one frog. you don't shave the frame, you shave the door. Also the first few times I did it I took the door off to plane it, then I realized it was a million times easier to get on a chair or ladder and do it in place, testing as you go.
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Oct 30, 2023 03:33
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Ten bux on some 3" decking screws seems like a small gamble to avoid planing a door, but what do I know?
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Oct 30, 2023 04:06
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4" screws, the 3's normally won't bite deep enough.
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Oct 30, 2023 04:10
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Can you buy solid bypass closet doors? As opposed to the hollow ones. If so, where?
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Oct 30, 2023 04:15
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alnilam posted:you don't shave the frame, you shave the door. Also the first few times I did it I took the door off to plane it, then I realized it was a million times easier to get on a chair or ladder and do it in place, testing as you go. 
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Oct 30, 2023 04:54
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avatar/post combo
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Oct 30, 2023 05:09
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:avatar/post combo Haha yeah
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Oct 30, 2023 13:18
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PainterofCrap posted:. You do not want to mess with the hinge mortises beyond confirming that everything is snugged down. As a general rule? Or just in this case? OP: confirm the screws are snug with a screwdriver, don’t overtighten. Confirm that there’s at least one 3”+ deck screw per hinge. Lay a piece of wood over the part of door jamb that’s sticking and give it some whacks to see if you can knock it back into place. Try all that before messing w the door itself. The door slab is fine, after all it worked before something came out of alignment. I’d suspect it’s the door jamb itself rather than the structure settling, the jamb is nailed in place and all the impacts from using the heavy front door can cause it to shift. Vim Fuego posted:Can you buy solid bypass closet doors? As opposed to the hollow ones. If so, where? sliding bifold doors like these?  They sell them at the home centers, maybe not in stock but you can definitely order them. They are significantly more expensive though, these are like $800 at Lowe’s. Maybe there’s a cabinet/moulding supplier in your area that’s open to the public that could get you better prices
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Oct 30, 2023 13:25
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I guess this is me thinking out loud more than anything. I'm building a kind of small lean to type addition to my shed. 7x10 base and probably 5' height at the door and whatever gets me good enough pitch at the high back wall. Considering the size and the whole purpose of it is to store like 3 things (wheel barrel, mower, sweeper for tractor), any reason I can't go 24" on center for the framing instead of 16"? I'm in Southeast PA for climate reference.
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Oct 30, 2023 14:01
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Looks, indeed, were deceiving. Hinges looked good, but a few turns to tighten solved the issue! A couple were free spinning, so I may do a skewer trick + longer screws soon. Thanks all for the advice!
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Oct 30, 2023 18:17
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The Top G posted:As a general rule? Or just in this case? General rule, especially in the case of a mounted door that has operated without issue for years or decades. When fitting a new slab, you start with the hinge mortises, and trim them to fit. Once they're in, even & flush, don't mess with them again; trim to adjust everything else.
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Oct 31, 2023 01:25
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PainterofCrap posted:General rule, especially in the case of a mounted door that has operated without issue for years or decades. Gotcha, good to know. I’ve done it in the past usually as a last resort, but I’m most only ever dealing with pre-hung doors that were installed inorrectly The Dave posted:I guess this is me thinking out loud more than anything. I'm building a kind of small lean to type addition to my shed. 7x10 base and probably 5' height at the door and whatever gets me good enough pitch at the high back wall. Local building codes may vary but when I last checked the IRC it allowed for 2x4 24” oc exterior walls supporting one additional floor and a roof assembly, so you ought to be fine. Use a double top plate and line up the rafters with the studs and you should be good.
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Oct 31, 2023 14:56
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 I scraped up some bubbled paint on the window frame. What's the best filler to bring it level before repainting? I have drywall mud and wood filler. I'm willing to buy bondo if it's the best option.
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Oct 31, 2023 22:09
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