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mutata
Mar 1, 2003

You're both right!

Actually, in reality, I have some Ikea furniture that my wife and I got for our first apartment in 2007, that we've moved with 8 times and it's still fine. Go figure.

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PainterofCrap
Oct 17, 2002

hey bebe



My wife bought a bedroom set from IKEA in 1986; the end tables and a coffee table soldier on to this day...but back then, those types of things were solid pine. The bed rails were steel-reinforced pressboard & we wiped 'em out within a year after I met her (May '88).

I have a tall dresser on my front porch that we bought in 1999; it's fine, but I glued it together with wood glue when I assembled it. More importantly, it's never been moved.

kreeningsons
Jan 2, 2007

Selective modern Ikea furniture can be fine but is definitely a buyer beware transaction. I treat it like going to a thrift store.

brugroffil
Nov 30, 2015
Probation
Can't post for 3 hours!
My wife just bought some black IKEA picture frames yesterday to change out the old white ones we had. The fronts are now plastic instead of glass, and there was no pre installed hanging hardware.

Mustache Ride
Sep 11, 2001



Yeah we've switched to Art To Frames. They've got a bunch of normal sized frames in wood with glass and they'll do custom sizes as well. And the prices aren't killer.

devmd01
Mar 7, 2006

Elektronik
Supersonik
A month from now, there will be a screened in patio in that shot.



Hopefully the inspections for the footers, etc go quickly so they can get on with the rest of it before things turn cold.

adnam
Aug 28, 2006

Christmas Whale fully subsidized by ThatsMyBoye
I've got a complete newb question regarding paint matching. I have a 10 year old model house with off-white/cream walls and white ceiling. I had water damage a few months ago and had insurance cut out drywall and replace the area of concern which is now all good. HOWEVER, I don't have paint samples of the areas where the drywall were replaced to match. How difficult/in trouble am I for getting new paint to match the paint from that long ago? I 've got some old paint cans in the garage but I think they're degraded at this point.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Paint fades with light exposure. It's not the color it was when it was first painted and what is there is not even all the same color anymore either. It's faded in gradients that aren't too obvious to the eye based on whatever, likely amount of UV exposure. So you're not matching 10 year old paint in any reasonable way. You can take a sample from somewhere and have them "match" it at a paint store and then it should be close enough to do an entire wall or something with a hard border between the "same" color and it should look close enough to the rest of your walls. Ceilings should be painted in their entirety.

nwin
Feb 25, 2002

make's u think

Oof. Second quote came back at $2500 for the zoning boundary report.

I think I’ll skip it since it was more curiosity than anything.

Squashy Nipples
Aug 18, 2007

Do we have a thread for discussing pool/spa maintenance?

I'm thinking of heating my pool, was looking to discuss propane vs heat pump.

Thumbtacks
Apr 3, 2013
I'm not entirely sure where to post this but my wife really wants to hang up a frame on our fireplace bricks, we have bricks that go up to the ceiling and she wants to hang a painting there. Problem is I can't exactly drill holes into it or nails or anything, and the frame isn't SUPER heavy but it's a nice old one so I don't want to risk it falling down. Any idea on ways to hang a frame up on essentially bricks without drilling into them? The bricks are shallow enough that I don't think brick clips will work

Kylaer
Aug 4, 2007
I'm SURE walking around in a respirator at all times in an (even more) OPEN BIDENing society is definitely not a recipe for disaster and anyone that's not cool with getting harassed by CHUDs are cave dwellers. I've got good brain!
Can you use construction adhesive to stick a piece of wood to the brick and mount the frame to that? You could use a nice looking stained piece that runs the full width of the bricks.

brugroffil
Nov 30, 2015
Probation
Can't post for 3 hours!
Get ye a hammer drill and some tapcons.

Tiny Timbs
Sep 6, 2008

If it's painted then double sided tape might stick properly but it'd be a risk

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Thumbtacks posted:

Problem is I can't exactly drill holes into it

Why not? This seems like the first thing to figure out before giving you any other suggestions.

peanut
Sep 9, 2007


How about picture rail long cable hook thingies hanging from the ceiling

Vim Fuego
Jun 1, 2000



Ultra Carp

Thumbtacks posted:

I'm not entirely sure where to post this but my wife really wants to hang up a frame on our fireplace bricks, we have bricks that go up to the ceiling and she wants to hang a painting there. Problem is I can't exactly drill holes into it or nails or anything, and the frame isn't SUPER heavy but it's a nice old one so I don't want to risk it falling down. Any idea on ways to hang a frame up on essentially bricks without drilling into them? The bricks are shallow enough that I don't think brick clips will work

AFAIK the proper solution is to drill into the mortar. You can then embed anchors into the holes in the mortar. You can fill in mortar if you remove it later. It's much harder to fill in a hole in brick.

If there's a solid reason you aren't allowed to drill into it, then yeah. Some kind of adhesive as other posters have suggested.

adnam
Aug 28, 2006

Christmas Whale fully subsidized by ThatsMyBoye

Motronic posted:

Paint fades with light exposure. It's not the color it was when it was first painted and what is there is not even all the same color anymore either. It's faded in gradients that aren't too obvious to the eye based on whatever, likely amount of UV exposure. So you're not matching 10 year old paint in any reasonable way. You can take a sample from somewhere and have them "match" it at a paint store and then it should be close enough to do an entire wall or something with a hard border between the "same" color and it should look close enough to the rest of your walls. Ceilings should be painted in their entirety.

Great thank you. Gonna try and bring some of the old drywall down to ace hardware and have them take a look. You're everywhere, mo tronic! (saw you in the pest control thread and thanks for your input there too!)

tuyop
Sep 15, 2006

Every second that we're not growing BASIL is a second wasted

Fun Shoe
I have a coaxial cable going through the ceiling of the unfinished basement into a living room wall. I’ve taken off the plate and the lovely little box they attached incorrectly and ran it through, but I want to replace it with a cat 7 Ethernet line.

The hole in the ceiling in the basement is only large enough for coax, though, and if I pull the cable out to enlarge the hole, I’ll lose the line to fish Ethernet with.

My options look like:

A) pull the coax, enlarge the hole, and painstakingly shove new Ethernet up until my partner sees and grabs it
B) enlarge around the coax in place with a multi tool, basically making a half-inch square hole around the cable, then tie the Ethernet cable to the end of it and pull that up
C) replace the coax with light wire or something, enlarge the hole with a drill bit and use the something to pull the new cable through.

I guess I could also drill a second hole for the Ethernet line and somehow match the two cables up above that hole.

Regardless, I’m going to reattach the junction box and run the cable into that properly with a brush plate covering it. Is there any other way I’m supposed to do this?

Edit: some pictures might help!


The box I removed and the coax from within.


The other end of the coax in the basement.

tuyop fucked around with this message at 14:22 on Oct 25, 2023

Qwijib0
Apr 10, 2007

Who needs on-field skills when you can dance like this?

Fun Shoe
If you strip the coax back some to get an inch or so of the center conductor, you can poorly lineman's splice it to a few of the pairs in the Ethernet cable and then electrical tape it to smooth it well enough. The outside diameters of both cables are pretty close, and the the coax should be a fine pull wire.

Qwijib0 fucked around with this message at 14:31 on Oct 25, 2023

Sirotan
Oct 17, 2006

Sirotan is a seal.


Are you attempting to fish a cable that has already been terminated with a jack on both ends? Unterminated ethernet should be smaller in diameter than that coax and be no problem to securely tape it to the end of the coax with some electrical tape and use as your fish string, assuming you aren't trying to go through a bunch of tight bends or holes. Alternatively, you could buy actual fish string/pull tape to tape to the end of that, pull out all of the coax, tape the fish string to the end of the ethernet, and then pull it back through.

Shifty Pony
Dec 28, 2004

Up ta somethin'


Since that's an interior wall fishing another cable is going to be stupidly easy. Just drill another hole and stick a bit of fish tape (or even a straightened clothes hanger) up and wave it around for the person above you to grab and tie the Cat7 cable onto. Hell if you make sure to straighten it out before trying you can probably pull it off with the Cat7 cable itself.

Edit: this is assuming that the Living Room is directly above the basement and not two floors up.

Also, I much prefer to use keystone jacks instead of the brush plates. Looks cleaner and keeps the wall sealed.

Shifty Pony fucked around with this message at 14:34 on Oct 25, 2023

tuyop
Sep 15, 2006

Every second that we're not growing BASIL is a second wasted

Fun Shoe

Qwijib0 posted:

If you strip the coax back some to get an inch or so of the center conductor, you can poorly lineman's splice it to a few of the pairs in the Ethernet cable and then electrical tape it to smooth it well enough. The outside diameters of both cables are pretty close, and the the coax should be a fine pull wire.

That would be neat but I don’t have an rj45 crimping tool yet. Could I even successfully crimp a cat 7 as a stupid diyer?

Kylaer
Aug 4, 2007
I'm SURE walking around in a respirator at all times in an (even more) OPEN BIDENing society is definitely not a recipe for disaster and anyone that's not cool with getting harassed by CHUDs are cave dwellers. I've got good brain!

tuyop posted:


A) pull the coax, enlarge the hole, and painstakingly shove new Ethernet up until my partner sees and grabs it

The enemy gate is down.

I have nothing to add that's any better than the advice you already got, except that fishing downward is probably easier than fishing upward.

Sirotan
Oct 17, 2006

Sirotan is a seal.


tuyop posted:

That would be neat but I don’t have an rj45 crimping tool yet. Could I even successfully crimp a cat 7 as a stupid diyer?

Unless you already have the cable I wouldn't bother with cat 7, cat 6a will be cheaper and work just fine. That being said, I also wouldn't crimp the cable. Punch down to a keystone on both ends and then add a wall plate for a nice clean look. It is also way way easier than crimping, and the more appropriate way to install a cable in a semi-permanent location like inside a wall.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0gxNZoPcnP4

Get the tools and keystones from Monoprice.

Dr.Donkeypunch
Sep 8, 2003

Ask me about ironing shirts.
Grimey Drawer
Got a quick fire safety question for you guys, specifically about garage fire detection.
Recently moved into a house, set up Simplisafe Smoke Detectors and CO detectors in all the recommended locations. Their smoke detectors are photoelectric smoke detectors, which I've heard might cause some false alarms when located in the garage. They don't have a good solution for heat sensors, as their current temperature sensor is more so meant for slow cold temperature changes (only communicates with base station once an hour), and wouldn't be very useful in a fire.
Basically, I'm interested in a solution that would allow us to have a heat sensor in the garage that would connect with another alarm in the house [the garage is on the other side of the house, so we might not hear it immediately if the alarm goes off]. It could be as simple as having two sensors that are close together and are integrated so that when one goes off, the other goes off. I can't quite seem to find anything like this. I'm OK if it's not on the same system as the Simplisafe since it's only one alarm with a specific, very important function. I'd prefer wireless as I'm not particularly handy with wiring, but if there isn't a wireless option, wired would be OK as I can find someone to help me with that.

Deviant
Sep 26, 2003

i've forgotten all of your names.


After five emails and half an hour on hold, Bosch has agreed to send me a new bezel for the dishwasher. :toot:

devicenull
May 30, 2007

Grimey Drawer

Dr.Donkeypunch posted:

Got a quick fire safety question for you guys, specifically about garage fire detection.
Recently moved into a house, set up Simplisafe Smoke Detectors and CO detectors in all the recommended locations. Their smoke detectors are photoelectric smoke detectors, which I've heard might cause some false alarms when located in the garage. They don't have a good solution for heat sensors, as their current temperature sensor is more so meant for slow cold temperature changes (only communicates with base station once an hour), and wouldn't be very useful in a fire.
Basically, I'm interested in a solution that would allow us to have a heat sensor in the garage that would connect with another alarm in the house [the garage is on the other side of the house, so we might not hear it immediately if the alarm goes off]. It could be as simple as having two sensors that are close together and are integrated so that when one goes off, the other goes off. I can't quite seem to find anything like this. I'm OK if it's not on the same system as the Simplisafe since it's only one alarm with a specific, very important function. I'd prefer wireless as I'm not particularly handy with wiring, but if there isn't a wireless option, wired would be OK as I can find someone to help me with that.

I don't think a product like this exists, but you can combine a few things to get it.

Basically:
* Install this in the garage, hardwired - https://www.kidde.com/home-safety/en/us/products/fire-safety/safety-accessories/auxiliary-devices/hd135/
* Install this somewhere nearby it, hardwired to the garage one
* Install another one or more of P4010ACS-W wherever you want to hear the alarms. (does not have to be hardwired)

You'd be using the P4010ACS-W's to act as a relay for the heat detector... once the heat detector signals there's a fire, the P4010ACS-W's would broadcast that signal to the other alarms.

That sounds like a giant pain in the rear end though, so I'd probably just try the Simplisafe one in the garage until (if?) you get false positives

tuyop
Sep 15, 2006

Every second that we're not growing BASIL is a second wasted

Fun Shoe
https://i.imgur.com/qWANTOx.mp4

Sorry to revive the dryer lint trap argument. But i couldn’t get the one falsifiable claim from the whole thing out of my head. So here it is. This is my dryer lint trap that I’m certain has never been cleaned since the dryer was purchased (the POs were filthy and the lint trap was spotless compared to the rest of the appliances). Or it’s a replacement.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

Sorry what is the point of the video I don't think you finished your thought about what the thing is you're trying to show us?

tuyop
Sep 15, 2006

Every second that we're not growing BASIL is a second wasted

Fun Shoe

VelociBacon posted:

Sorry what is the point of the video I don't think you finished your thought about what the thing is you're trying to show us?

The dryer lint discussion from last week!

slidebite posted:

Not the lint on the outside that you take off each time you use it (or should). I'm talking about film residue that builds up in the mesh itself. It's from the detergent and fabric softener (if you use it).

I believe this has never happened to me.

slidebite posted:

Those that don't have problems or never heard of it before, take your screen out and go over to your kitchen sink and run a light but steady stream of water through it.

Ideally, the screen shouldn't impact the stream at all and pass through it basically unaffected. If it doesn't, you probably do have a build up issue.

So I did that and the water seems to pass through unimpeded!

tuyop
Sep 15, 2006

Every second that we're not growing BASIL is a second wasted

Fun Shoe
loving house. I took down the main bathroom fan to clean and check it to make sure it actually vents somewhere.

I found a little hole that leads into a duct. In the duct, though, I found what looks like a disk of sandpaper and sticks?





What do I do about this! Is this a normal thing for a homeowner to consider and deal with??

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

tuyop posted:

What do I do about this! Is this a normal thing for a homeowner to consider and deal with??

You remove it and do your best to inspect the rest of the duct.

Is it "normal"? Well, let's put it this way, most of the people doing most of the work to build houses aren't exactly the best nor the brightest and they aren't paid that well. The more recent the build/work the more likely the person doing it was hired and picked up that very morning from the closest local home improvement store parking lot. They are not incentivized to do anything more that the bare minimum that makes the job appear to be done.

Deviant
Sep 26, 2003

i've forgotten all of your names.


lucky it wasnt full of beer cans

wolrah
May 8, 2006
what?

tuyop posted:

The dryer lint discussion from last week!

I believe this has never happened to me.

So I did that and the water seems to pass through unimpeded!
That has never happened to me either. I don't generally use fabric softener and just use generic Tide detergent, I get all sorts of lint but never anything else.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

wolrah posted:

That has never happened to me either. I don't generally use fabric softener and just use generic Tide detergent, I get all sorts of lint but never anything else.

The commonality so far seems to be exactly that: not using fabric softener/dryer sheets. It feels gross on things, so I'm not surprised it leaves a gross residue on the lint screen.

meatpimp
May 15, 2004

Psst -- Wanna buy

:) EVERYWHERE :)
some high-quality thread's DESTROYED!

:kheldragar:

tuyop posted:

loving house. I took down the main bathroom fan to clean and check it to make sure it actually vents somewhere.

I found a little hole that leads into a duct. In the duct, though, I found what looks like a disk of sandpaper and sticks?





What do I do about this! Is this a normal thing for a homeowner to consider and deal with??

Are they sticks, or did someone run wires through the duct and they got covered with lint?

tuyop
Sep 15, 2006

Every second that we're not growing BASIL is a second wasted

Fun Shoe

meatpimp posted:

Are they sticks, or did someone run wires through the duct and they got covered with lint?

I don’t know but they really look like sticks to me through this fine scope from the renowned brand “ANESOK”

In any case, I’m sure the bathroom fan is less efficient with that there, but it does seem to remove moisture and it’s quiet now after the clean. Guess I’ll try to forget what I’ve seen!

Kylaer
Aug 4, 2007
I'm SURE walking around in a respirator at all times in an (even more) OPEN BIDENing society is definitely not a recipe for disaster and anyone that's not cool with getting harassed by CHUDs are cave dwellers. I've got good brain!

tuyop posted:

Guess I’ll try to forget what I’ve seen!

:haibrow: This is wisdom.

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right arm
Oct 30, 2011

Deviant posted:

lucky it wasnt full of beer cans

Lol modelos full of piss

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