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Pepe Silvia Browne
Jan 1, 2007

SouthShoreSamurai posted:

My least favorite part about woodworking.

"What should I finish this simple box with?"

Gets 7 different answers.

I get that they are all valid, but my brain wants a single *right* answer. And there often isn't, or there are so many variables that getting that right answer is a rabbit hole.

The problem is the question is not specifying enough parameters to get a single right answer, I think. When you start specifying things like time, materials and tools available, proposed use, etc. you can start filtering those answers down into a much smaller range of what can be accomplished. A box intended as a gift for my grandma to keep her family heirlooms in is gonna be finished differently than a box I'm throwing together to put my weed in.

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deimos
Nov 30, 2006

Forget it man this bat is whack, it's got poobrain!
And a box intended to keep grandma as a heirloom gets a different finish from those two.

FISHMANPET
Mar 3, 2007

Sweet 'N Sour
Can't
Melt
Steel Beams
Oh, so you're saying a can of white spray paint isn't also a wrong answer?

deimos
Nov 30, 2006

Forget it man this bat is whack, it's got poobrain!

FISHMANPET posted:

Oh, so you're saying a can of white spray paint isn't also a wrong answer?

It's your wood buddy.

FISHMANPET
Mar 3, 2007

Sweet 'N Sour
Can't
Melt
Steel Beams
I'm gonna get so many views on Instagram!

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


Schiavona posted:

I have a finish question for the thread:

I'm very much just getting started in the hobby, and my wife asked me to make a box to hold a bunch of things related to our baby; sonograms, etc. This coincided with my dad dropping off a bunch of wood he reclaimed (?) by chopping up tables and dressers that he somehow collected.

I went for something simple, made some mistakes, and here we are:





there's some sanding left to do on the inside of the lid, but once that's done, I'm not sure how to finish it. In the past, I've painted or stained anything I've made. What's the recommendation for a clear coat finish? I'm not 100% sure what the wood even is, my dad said it was cherry, but could be wrong.

Additionally, when I built it in my garage, the lid was mostly flat. I've brought it inside to finish it, and it's started to bow, I'm guessing because of the humidity change. Is there a standard way to fix that before finishing?

Very nice box! I think it is some sort of mahogany. If you wet it/finish it, it will probably go a bit red-if you don't like that, there are many ways to hide the red in mahogany, but plenty of people like it just fine. I never recommend Minwax, but their 'Provincial' oil stain is a decent color for killing the red in mahogany.

As for 'what's the best finish,' as you can see there is no right answer. For 'easy foolproof and safe' I really like Osmo Polyx oil/wax blend. The downside is it's expensive and doesn't show the figure and depth of the wood as well as shellac or lacquer. A coat or three of shellac with a nice clear paste wax over it is a beautiful finish for mahogany and zinsser SealCote shellac is fairly widely available and not super expensive. Not the most durable and not ideal for e.g. a table top, but it should be more than fine for a little box and has the advantage of being easy to repair. There's nothing wrong with Danish oil either, tho IME oil tends to make mahogany go a little redder/purple than a film finish like shellac. Wipe-on polyurethane is very similar to Danish oil and is also fine. I don't recommend a brush on poly-it tends to get applied way too thick and look really plasticky unless you are very diligent about sanding between coats and rubbing the finish out with steel wool at the end.

If you have some extra material, it is always worth taking the time to make some samples with whatever product you're thinking of using to make sure you like the result. Make sure you sand your samples the same way you sand the project-sanding can make a huge difference in how finish appears, especially if there is any stain involved.

e: I think the bottom of your box is cherry and the sides/top are mahogany of some description.

Kaiser Schnitzel fucked around with this message at 19:51 on Nov 22, 2023

CommonShore
Jun 6, 2014

A true renaissance man


What about a box for Grandma to keep her weed in

deimos
Nov 30, 2006

Forget it man this bat is whack, it's got poobrain!
Last box I did I just drizzled with Howard's feed and wax, it's cheap and, to me, gives really good results. It's fairly delicate though, but since it's oil/wax based you can just reapply.

Deteriorata
Feb 6, 2005

SouthShoreSamurai posted:

My least favorite part about woodworking.

"What should I finish this simple box with?"

Gets 7 different answers.

I get that they are all valid, but my brain wants a single *right* answer. And there often isn't, or there are so many variables that getting that right answer is a rabbit hole.

That's because there is no *wrong* answer, just different ones. With experience you'll be able to distinguish subtle differences in finishes and can make finer distinctions. For now, it doesn't really matter. Pick something and see how it works out. Then you'll know what that one is like for the future.

CommonShore
Jun 6, 2014

A true renaissance man


I'm actually trying out osmo polyx right now in a refinishing project. Will report. It's pretty loving expensive! I wanted to try rubio monocoat for this but I can't buy it locally and I've heard that osmo polyx is a similar product and experience.

Arcsech
Aug 5, 2008
I’m a big fan of shellac for anything that isn’t going to have drinks set on it, which is realistically the only time most things are going to see exposure to alcohol. It’s dead simple to apply, dries fast enough to keeps my ADHD at bay, looks good, all natural, non toxic, easy to repair, and it makes a great primer if you’re going to paint the thing anyway.

Arsenic Lupin
Apr 12, 2012

This particularly rapid💨 unintelligible 😖patter💁 isn't generally heard🧏‍♂️, and if it is🤔, it doesn't matter💁.


Arcsech posted:

I’m a big fan of shellac for anything that isn’t going to have drinks set on it, which is realistically the only time most things are going to see exposure to alcohol. It’s dead simple to apply, dries fast enough to keeps my ADHD at bay, looks good, all natural, non toxic, easy to repair, and it makes a great primer if you’re going to paint the thing anyway.
lf this is for Grandma, she may well keep perfume in it/set perfume on top of it.

Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

Having experimented a little with shellac, I think it needs to come with a couple of caveats. That it dissolves in alcohol is the one most people mention and that's true. But it also behaves quite differently in application than any other type of finish, so if you "learn to apply finish" either starting with shellac or starting with a film finish or an oil finish, you're going to be learning different skills.

Shellac is basically a solid dissolved in alcohol. You can buy shellac flakes and thin it yourself or you can buy e.g. Zinsser which is already thinned. After you apply one coat, it'll dry very quickly - 15 minutes or so - and then you can add more. But what you are not really doing is "applying a second coat." The second application will partially dissolve the first. This is fine. You do several applications to build up a thick enough amount of the solid to get the finish you want, and there's several techniques for "rubbing" to get a particular finish. But, once you're there, adding more shellac can result in an excessive, gummy, sticky mess on your wood that you are just pushing around and making whirls in with your applicator pad. I learned this the hard way. It's kind of a learning process to discover just how much is enough and how much is a bit too much. The good news is it's very forgiving if you add too much - assuming you have some alcohol on hand, you can just soak a rag and wipe and wipe and wipe and you're removing excess shellac from the surface. Notably, you're not trying to remove excess by sanding, it'll gum up sandpaper very fast. I'm sure you can sand off shellac but I haven't really tried it because it's advised not to.

Meanwhile, wipe on poly, danish oil, varnish, etc. just go on in layers. Brush or wipe on a layer, let it dry, lightly sand if you like, put on another layer, you can just keep doing that and it's pretty foolproof. It takes much longer to dry than shellac, and the solvents are not OK to breathe, and since it's wet longer it can get dust settling into the finish easier, all those are drawbacks... but IMO it's actually easier to get a top quality finish with something this straightforward because you just sand it very fine between coats, after the last coat you can do very fine steel wool if you want, then buff, and you're done and you have a hard durable finish. I've watched videos on french polishing shellac and I just don't really get it, exactly, every "lint free" cloth leaves lint, tack cloth doesn't seem to work, there's different weights (1, 2, 3 lb) of shellac to solvent that you're supposed to just figure out what is right for you or something, I dunno. Maybe just doing a very simple shellac finish is simple, but it's felt like a rabbit hole where I'd probably benefit from hands-on training by an expert whereas I've never felt I needed that for any other type of finish.

Then there's linseed oil, boiled linseed oil, tung oil, and other oil finishes. Those are their own bag: you put some on, it soaks in, you can put on more, but at some point you need to let it cure and it may take days or in the case of BLO weeks to fully cure. Adding more coats after it cures is also a thing. I've used pure tung oil for cutting boards because it's food safe but man if you're making a cutting board as a christmas gift, finish making it in NOVEMBER so you can take all of December to let successive coats of tung oil dry and cure before you have to put it in a box and wrap it!

If I got anything above wrong, listen to Kaiser Schnitzel, he's an expert.

Leperflesh fucked around with this message at 19:38 on Nov 22, 2023

Fortaleza
Feb 21, 2008

I've been using garnet shellac on recent projects and one effect I haven't seen mentioned is that it makes me really really crave a nice cup of dark rich coffee.

A Wizard of Goatse
Dec 14, 2014

Fortaleza posted:

I've been using garnet shellac on recent projects and one effect I haven't seen mentioned is that it makes me really really crave a nice cup of dark rich coffee.

it really smells amazing, unlike basically any other permanent finish


Leperflesh posted:

Having experimented a little with shellac, I think it needs to come with a couple of caveats. That it dissolves in alcohol is the one most people mention and that's true. But it also behaves quite differently in application than any other type of finish, so if you "learn to apply finish" either starting with shellac or starting with a film finish or an oil finish, you're going to be learning different skills.

Shellac is basically a solid dissolved in alcohol. You can buy shellac flakes and thin it yourself or you can buy e.g. Zinsser which is already thinned. After you apply one coat, it'll dry very quickly - 15 minutes or so - and then you can add more. But what you are not really doing is "applying a second coat." The second application will partially dissolve the first. This is fine. You do several applications to build up a thick enough amount of the solid to get the finish you want, and there's several techniques for "rubbing" to get a particular finish. But, once you're there, adding more shellac can result in an excessive, gummy, sticky mess on your wood that you are just pushing around and making whirls in with your applicator pad. I learned this the hard way. It's kind of a learning process to discover just how much is enough and how much is a bit too much. The good news is it's very forgiving if you add too much - assuming you have some alcohol on hand, you can just soak a rag and wipe and wipe and wipe and you're removing excess shellac from the surface. Notably, you're not trying to remove excess by sanding, it'll gum up sandpaper very fast. I'm sure you can sand off shellac but I haven't really tried it because it's advised not to.

Meanwhile, wipe on poly, danish oil, varnish, etc. just go on in layers. Brush or wipe on a layer, let it dry, lightly sand if you like, put on another layer, you can just keep doing that and it's pretty foolproof. It takes much longer to dry than shellac, and the solvents are not OK to breathe, and since it's wet longer it can get dust settling into the finish easier, all those are drawbacks... but IMO it's actually easier to get a top quality finish with something this straightforward because you just sand it very fine between coats, after the last coat you can do very fine steel wool if you want, then buff, and you're done and you have a hard durable finish. I've watched videos on french polishing shellac and I just don't really get it, exactly, every "lint free" cloth leaves lint, tack cloth doesn't seem to work, there's different weights (1, 2, 3 lb) of shellac to solvent that you're supposed to just figure out what is right for you or something, I dunno. Maybe just doing a very simple shellac finish is simple, but it's felt like a rabbit hole where I'd probably benefit from hands-on training by an expert whereas I've never felt I needed that for any other type of finish.

Then there's linseed oil, boiled linseed oil, tung oil, and other oil finishes. Those are their own bag: you put some on, it soaks in, you can put on more, but at some point you need to let it cure and it may take days or in the case of BLO weeks to fully cure. Adding more coats after it cures is also a thing. I've used pure tung oil for cutting boards because it's food safe but man if you're making a cutting board as a christmas gift, finish making it in NOVEMBER so you can take all of December to let successive coats of tung oil dry and cure before you have to put it in a box and wrap it!

If I got anything above wrong, listen to Kaiser Schnitzel, he's an expert.

Strongly recommend George Frank's books on finishes and french polishing, there's definitely a degree where you've just got to do it a few times and get a feel for it but also it's extremely forgiving compared to most modern finishes just, as you say, different. The problem is there's no way to do it that doesn't take a lot of time and manual effort and some degree of practice, you can't just throw some extra money at a spray booth* and get a dresser knocked out in 1/10 the time some 14th century villager would've spent with his little tampon, so it's not very appealing for modern production shops; hobbyists shopping at home depot don't have much reason to go for it when the stuff they're making wouldn't benefit hugely from the extra effort over just slathering on some danish oil and calling it a day. There's no modern wonder material you can make your applicator out of that won't leave a little lint, but everything can be reversed so you can use your worn-out socks and they'll be fine if you clean as you go.

*i have, provisionally, gotten some passable results with an automotive buffer and a willingness to make an unholy mess, but it wasn't much faster

A Wizard of Goatse fucked around with this message at 20:14 on Nov 22, 2023

Bloody
Mar 3, 2013

I like whatever the tried & true oil finish is. That’s my contribution

NomNomNom
Jul 20, 2008
Please Work Out
Isn't sanding sealer also just shellac?

A Wizard of Goatse
Dec 14, 2014

Anyone got any recommendations on an oil heater or something that won't burn my shop down (again) when it inevitably gets covered with sawdust? Most of what I'm turning up looks like Amazon fake-brand poo poo I wouldn't trust even unplugged

deimos
Nov 30, 2006

Forget it man this bat is whack, it's got poobrain!

A Wizard of Goatse posted:

Anyone got any recommendations on an oil heater or something that won't burn my shop down (again) when it inevitably gets covered with sawdust? Most of what I'm turning up looks like Amazon fake-brand poo poo I wouldn't trust even unplugged

Has been posted before but: a heat pump mini split.

deimos
Nov 30, 2006

Forget it man this bat is whack, it's got poobrain!
Quote is not edit.

Thumposaurus
Jul 24, 2007

NomNomNom posted:

Isn't sanding sealer also just shellac?

Depends on the brand some are nitrocellulose lacquer based.

They have additional solids added to make it easier to build up a level base coat. The Deft one uses a zinc filler to make the sanding easier. The vinyl based ones are lacquer too just with vinyl solids in place of the zinc.

The Deft one sands beautifully. I've used the behlens vinyl based one on a few guitars and it doesn't sand as nice but it's supposed to be a superior base coat.

When in doubt if you have a woodcraft store nearby go in and talk to the grey beard working there about what you're doing and see what they recommend.

Wasabi the J
Jan 23, 2008

MOM WAS RIGHT
Don't forget wax finishes like Briwax!

Love that stuff. Easy to apply and repair.

Granite Octopus
Jun 24, 2008

Working on some cabinet doors for a vanity. I imported some hinoki from japan which has been pretty fun to work with. Really light and easy to work but not as soft as pine. Seems pretty stable. Plenty of knots but I've managed to avoid most of them on visible faces at least. Planes beautifully.





I bought some new mortise chisels just for the joinery since they were on special. The original finish was pretty rough so I spent an hour grinding and polishing and it came up alright. This is something I've never bothered with on any other chisels.





On the same japan theme I picked up this neat little marking gauge from an importer in Geelong.





The first door - I made plenty of dumb mistakes like cutting off the haunches on 3 of the 4 joins, but it shouldnt really affect them badly.






The second door took 1/8th of the time and came out way better. I really need to internalise the need to practice this poo poo. Unfortunately I didn't get quite enough wood for 3 doors so the first attempt will still be used.




And test fitting




I'll get the panels done on Sunday hopefully. No fancy raised panels or anything here so should be pretty quick.

SouthShoreSamurai
Apr 28, 2009

It is a tale,
Told by an idiot, full of sound and fury,
Signifying nothing.


Fun Shoe

A Wizard of Goatse posted:

Anyone got any recommendations on an oil heater or something that won't burn my shop down (again) when it inevitably gets covered with sawdust? Most of what I'm turning up looks like Amazon fake-brand poo poo I wouldn't trust even unplugged

A minisplit is definitely the top level answer, but it's also expensive.

I went with this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000AXEZV/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1 and hardwired it when I was adding some 240 outlets anyway. It's been awesome.

I will add that my shop is a garage, and I routinely open the door and blow all the dust out.

My Spirit Otter
Jun 15, 2006


CANADA DOESN'T GET PENS LIKE THIS

SKILCRAFT KREW Reppin' Quality Blind Made American Products. Bitch.
well, i have a project that i intend to complete within 6 months.



i bought this draw knife and it was missing a handle! so i grabbed a block of african mahogany to make into handles. this will be my first attempt at making handles and i plan to do everything without the use of power tools so i look forward to having two different sized handles.

Schiavona
Oct 8, 2008

Thanks all for the input and expertise on finishes!

CommonShore
Jun 6, 2014

A true renaissance man


Verdict on the Osmo Polyx oil:

It's merely ok. I think I prefer how my oil and wax finishes look and feel, and it doesn't look as good to my eye as well applied poly or shellac, but it's like a B+ surface, which is apparently very durable, for extremely low effort. If I were just trying to get something finished and away I'd use it again, but it would have to be 1/2 of the price for it to become any kind of go-to choice for me.

So you're paying for ease of application.

Bob Mundon
Dec 1, 2003
Your Friendly Neighborhood Gun Nut
Re: Shellac, I recently ventured into that for the first time and went with their sealer since it comes thinned down and is also dewaxed. However, I didn't really love the way it looks. Does the regular Zinsser Shellac (or diy flakes) look much different than the thinner sealcoat? I was expecting color wise it would appear the same as a blonde Shellac, but it's VERY pale. Not sure if that's the sealcoat vs regular Shellac, or just how a blonde Shellac comes across.

Arcsech
Aug 5, 2008

Bob Mundon posted:

Re: Shellac, I recently ventured into that for the first time and went with their sealer since it comes thinned down and is also dewaxed. However, I didn't really love the way it looks. Does the regular Zinsser Shellac (or diy flakes) look much different than the thinner sealcoat? I was expecting color wise it would appear the same as a blonde Shellac, but it's VERY pale. Not sure if that's the sealcoat vs regular Shellac, or just how a blonde Shellac comes across.

Sealcoat is like ultra blonde, I think there’s a couple variants of the canned stuff but you can get flakes in varying shades from very light to dark red (“garnet”).

Meow Meow Meow
Nov 13, 2010
I don't think you can beat the look and depth you get from a film finish like shellac, that's what I use on small boxes, but when it comes to a piece of furniture there's no way I can bring my self to rub on 10+ coats with all the sanding and final buffing. So I cop out and use something easy.

Wasabi the J
Jan 23, 2008

MOM WAS RIGHT

Bob Mundon posted:

Re: Shellac, I recently ventured into that for the first time and went with their sealer since it comes thinned down and is also dewaxed. However, I didn't really love the way it looks. Does the regular Zinsser Shellac (or diy flakes) look much different than the thinner sealcoat? I was expecting color wise it would appear the same as a blonde Shellac, but it's VERY pale. Not sure if that's the sealcoat vs regular Shellac, or just how a blonde Shellac comes across.

You can also dye and tint shellac easily. It's alcohol based, which is the same as a lot of dudes dyes.

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


Bob Mundon posted:

Re: Shellac, I recently ventured into that for the first time and went with their sealer since it comes thinned down and is also dewaxed. However, I didn't really love the way it looks. Does the regular Zinsser Shellac (or diy flakes) look much different than the thinner sealcoat? I was expecting color wise it would appear the same as a blonde Shellac, but it's VERY pale. Not sure if that's the sealcoat vs regular Shellac, or just how a blonde Shellac comes across.
Sealcote is fairly thin-I think it's like a 2# cut which is relatively few solids vs anything like polyurethane. If you put a few/thicker coats on, you may see more of a color, but it is relatively blonde. It is easy to tint with alcohol-soluble dyes and that open up a ton of possibilities.



CommonShore posted:

Verdict on the Osmo Polyx oil:

It's merely ok. I think I prefer how my oil and wax finishes look and feel, and it doesn't look as good to my eye as well applied poly or shellac, but it's like a B+ surface, which is apparently very durable, for extremely low effort. If I were just trying to get something finished and away I'd use it again, but it would have to be 1/2 of the price for it to become any kind of go-to choice for me.

So you're paying for ease of application.
Yeah this is basically it. The surface looks a lot better if you put eg. briwax over it, and you can save yourself a coat or two of Osmo and improve the sheen/depth if you put a really thin wash coat of shellac down first. It will never matcha film finish for chatoyancy and depth tho. Osmo does make a matte finish which basically looks like raw wood and I've had several people who have really liked that look.

Briwax makes a hardwax oil which I have (but have not tried yet) which is quite a bit cheaper-$45/L vs. $70/L for Osmo.

Meow Meow Meow
Nov 13, 2010

Meow Meow Meow posted:


I'm doing some bent laminations for another chair so I thought I would share the process.




I finished the frame for this chair. My wife will be doing the reed weaving for the seat, I'll post more pics when it's done.



These post and rung (more specifically Appalachian ladderback) chairs are really fun. They come together quite quick, the round mortise and tenons are easy to do, and you can do as much (or as little) handwork as you want.

deimos
Nov 30, 2006

Forget it man this bat is whack, it's got poobrain!
Never thought I'd ever go to a wood conference, but here I am, watching William Cumpiano talk and show about making string instruments.

Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

deimos posted:

Never thought I'd ever go to a wood conference, but here I am, watching William Cumpiano talk and show about making string instruments.

I imagine it's exactly like this
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BDRqHMaSGyo&t=22s

is it exactly like that?

e. not the girlfriend evaluation, but the geeking out over the shaker style guy and trying out planes and so forth

Leperflesh fucked around with this message at 03:19 on Nov 29, 2023

deimos
Nov 30, 2006

Forget it man this bat is whack, it's got poobrain!
I also got to meet Beth Ireland after that post and will be seeing her do some turning tomorrow.... Squeeeeee


Also, yes. Exactly like that except no tools only a small amount of awesome turnings and stuff from my teacher. Tools tomorrow tho.

deimos fucked around with this message at 04:32 on Nov 29, 2023

deimos
Nov 30, 2006

Forget it man this bat is whack, it's got poobrain!
5 minutes of Beth turning (plus a few minutes of explaining)

PokeJoe
Aug 24, 2004

hail cgatan


X post from yospos wood thread I made a rabbet plane and it works pretty ok



Leperflesh
May 17, 2007


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That Works
Jul 22, 2006

Every revolution evaporates and leaves behind only the slime of a new bureaucracy


PokeJoe posted:

X post from yospos wood thread I made a rabbet plane and it works pretty ok





Thats p neat

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