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Inzombiac
Mar 19, 2007

PARTY ALL NIGHT

EAT BRAINS ALL DAY


the yeti posted:

In terms of comes-in-a-can expanding foam, is one brand as good as another?

I just need it to stick to masonry and lumber, fill gaps and ideally not taste great to rodents.

How cheap do you want to go?
You can get expanding resin that will do the job, make it waterproof (if it is closed cell type) and I don't think rodents go after it like foam.

Otherwise, yeah just use the steel wool method.

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mutata
Mar 1, 2003

Fill the gap with party balloons. It looks festive and they pop when mice bite them to scare them away.

C-Euro
Mar 20, 2010

:science:
Soiled Meat
Planning to repaint our kitchen the same color that it currently is.

1. There's no need to do a coat of primer if I'm just painting the same color, right? Just give the wall a good cleaning/patching and paint the new color coat on.

2. I'm not sure that the PO left us enough kitchen paint to redo the whole thing (if what they left is still useable to begin with). The lid on the can still has the formula of the base and pigmentation, if I take this information back to the people who sold them the paint then I could probably get a new can that's an exact match, correct?

Jenkl
Aug 5, 2008

This post needs at least three times more shit!

Motronic posted:

Steel wool plus the rodent proof foam is how I do it. They do not put poison in it - at least not he great stuff kind. Last can I had was some sort of bitterant/things that don't taste good to them plus metal pieces/strands that they won't like chewing on.

I doubt ANY of them put actual pesticide in it because that is a nightmare commercially. Your handyman/the general contractor building an addition would need a state pesticide application license to apply it, which would be just ludicrous.

poo poo you're right I was way off. They even explicitly advertise not pesticides. totally makes sense.

Vim Fuego
Jun 1, 2000


Ultra Carp

C-Euro posted:

Planning to repaint our kitchen the same color that it currently is.

1. There's no need to do a coat of primer if I'm just painting the same color, right? Just give the wall a good cleaning/patching and paint the new color coat on.

2. I'm not sure that the PO left us enough kitchen paint to redo the whole thing (if what they left is still useable to begin with). The lid on the can still has the formula of the base and pigmentation, if I take this information back to the people who sold them the paint then I could probably get a new can that's an exact match, correct?

1. Probably don't need primer. I recommend TSP, tri sodium phosphate, for cleaning grease off kitchen walls. If by patching you mean new drywall or new mud/spackle I would prime that rather than just paint color on it. Zinsser spray primer is the best spray primer I have found, it's good for quick work on small areas.

2. Yes you can get an exact match to the mix. The color as applied to the walls will have faded over time so new paint is likely to look different once it dries. How much different depends on color and conditions. If you're painting entire walls it'll be fine. If you intend to patch you'll probably be able to tell but other people won't really notice

Vim Fuego fucked around with this message at 19:08 on Dec 2, 2023

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

C-Euro posted:

Planning to repaint our kitchen the same color that it currently is.

1. There's no need to do a coat of primer if I'm just painting the same color, right? Just give the wall a good cleaning/patching and paint the new color coat on.

2. I'm not sure that the PO left us enough kitchen paint to redo the whole thing (if what they left is still useable to begin with). The lid on the can still has the formula of the base and pigmentation, if I take this information back to the people who sold them the paint then I could probably get a new can that's an exact match, correct?

1. Clean with hot water and TSP
2. You can take it back to any paint store and they will cross/mix it right up for you.

the yeti
Mar 29, 2008

memento disco



TSP is handy but googling about that stuff is a trip, it’s all prepperw talking about how you can add back what big government took out of laundry detergent

C-Euro
Mar 20, 2010

:science:
Soiled Meat
I have TSP from the last paint job that I did, but good call on priming the patched spots before painting. Among goons, I'm hoping that a good cleaning and touching up of the patches (which aren't that bad) will satisfy my wife's request to repaint it all...

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

the yeti posted:

TSP is handy but googling about that stuff is a trip, it’s all prepperw talking about how you can add back what big government took out of laundry detergent

I mean, they're not wrong but that stuff is just too drat polluting to put in literally everything like it used to be. Save it for where it's really needed and use as little as necessary for the job.

Shit Fuckasaurus
Oct 14, 2005

i think right angles might be an abomination against nature you guys
Lipstick Apathy
Just be aware when using TSP that if the previous paint job did not use TSP (and has grease underneath) it'll wipe that paint right off. What I hoped would be a quick and easy patching-over of a removed alarm panel has turned into repainting the entire kitchen, and the previous color was a weird light teal (it's white now) so we went from 2 coats of paint on a 1sqft surface to priming and painting 200sqft of walls.

Vim Fuego
Jun 1, 2000


Ultra Carp
SMH

rjmccall
Sep 7, 2007

no worries friend
Fun Shoe
Plastic shed: assembled and anchored. Followed Motronic’s advice and just used 3/8” tapcons with 1” washers. The bulldog was delightfully overpowered for making the holes, and my cordless drill worked great as a driver. Thanks, everyone.

Now I have more space for my basement workshop :getin:

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002

C-Euro posted:

Planning to repaint our kitchen the same color that it currently is.

1. There's no need to do a coat of primer if I'm just painting the same color, right? Just give the wall a good cleaning/patching and paint the new color coat on.

2. I'm not sure that the PO left us enough kitchen paint to redo the whole thing (if what they left is still useable to begin with). The lid on the can still has the formula of the base and pigmentation, if I take this information back to the people who sold them the paint then I could probably get a new can that's an exact match, correct?

1. Primer is for first coats and drastic color changes. Primer is stickier than paint, but not as tough. Some surfaces need primer, like bare metal since it's so smooth. Paints are good at sticking to themselves, which is how you do multiple coats.

2. Definitely.

Arsenic Lupin
Apr 12, 2012

This particularly rapid💨 unintelligible 😖patter💁 isn't generally heard🧏‍♂️, and if it is🤔, it doesn't matter💁.


poo poo Fuckasaurus posted:

Just be aware when using TSP that if the previous paint job did not use TSP (and has grease underneath) it'll wipe that paint right off. What I hoped would be a quick and easy patching-over of a removed alarm panel has turned into repainting the entire kitchen, and the previous color was a weird light teal (it's white now) so we went from 2 coats of paint on a 1sqft surface to priming and painting 200sqft of walls.
Oh, oops. Our kitchen has a very sloppy (and peeling) layer of latex enamel on the woodwork, put down after spraypainting the entire room beige. I'm betting the painter didn't bother with prep.

Upside: It may well be easier than I expect to strip the woodwork.

NotNut
Feb 4, 2020

Kaiser Schnitzel posted:

Very carefully.

It depends alot on the roof slope, roofing material, weather conditions etc. both to keep you and the roof unharmed. Pretty much every roofer wears sneakers not boots because they're a lot better on roofs. Keep your body low, don't be afraid to get two 3" thick pieces of upholstery foam and leapfrog/crawl around them, especially if you have a fragile roof. Asphalt shingles are usually pretty grippy and not bad to walk on, silicone coated metal roofing is incredibly slippery if its even slightly wet.

I think it's got asphalt shingles.

PainterofCrap posted:

If the pitch is steep (beyond 6/12) then leave it to a pro. Roofs are almost always steeper than they look.

If you're gonna go: First thing is proper footwear. Boots with crepe soles, like Cougar Paws. No sneakers.



You can install roof jacks by pulling up shingles & screwing them in & letting the shingle back down. Generally, you;d attach a board across two of them, but you could use one as a fall-arrest anchor. But you gotta get way up there first.

The angle of the steepest tier of the roof appears to be slightly less steep than 45 degrees. I have a beam supporting a gable that I could tie something to, but it's on one side and there are no other anchor points on the other. I have to do this myself because I can't afford to hire anyone to work on it. Would it work to buy these and glue them to an old sneaker? https://www.amazon.com/MIIDII-Replacement-Anti-Slip-Thickness-Natural/dp/B0865MCJ2W/

NotNut fucked around with this message at 23:43 on Dec 3, 2023

TooMuchAbstraction
Oct 14, 2012

I spent four years making
Waves of Steel
Hell yes I'm going to turn my avatar into an ad for it.
Fun Shoe
45 degrees is a 12/12 slope (i.e. 12" of rise for every 12" of horizontal distance) and is absolutely not something I would try walking on. That's ladder and/or scaffolding territory, unless you can set up a fall arrest harness and know how to use it.

CzarChasm
Mar 14, 2009

I don't like it when you're watching me eat.
Two un-related questions

First, I came back from Thanksgiving away from home, and on that Tuesday found a small amount of water under my kitchen sink (double sink, DW, and garbage disposal). Enough water to destroy a cardboard box, but no clear culprit on where it came from. Cleaned up, decided to monitor things. Eliminated dishwasher as a direct cause as I ran a cycle and things remained dry. Thought it was a fluke, but then the next day, more water, and the DW had not been run. Took apart the P-traps, there was some standing water in both traps and gross blockage on one pipe, but I cleaned that. Put everything back together, hand tightened the collars as much as they would go. Ran the faucet to check for leaks, found none. Cleaned everything, went to bed. Woke up, water in the bottom again, still no obvious cause. I disconnected the garbage disposal, but other than the hose connecting the dishwasher and the pipe going to the trap, I didn't see anything causing any leaks. I did clean out the DW hose as best I could, re-connected everything else again, re-tested and things have been OK so far, but I'm waiting for another leak to just appear. I did check each of the pipes and connection points for moisture each time, but could not find anything. I also made sure that none of the various chemical bottles/oil/vinegar have a pinhole leak or anything like that. If it happens again, I don't know what else to check and will likely bring in a plumber, but I just can't pin down what might be causing this and it's really bothering me.

Second, I have a small enclosed mudroom/porch (6' x 3' ish) that I'm pretty sure in not insulated. It just has an old, ugly painted wood floor. When we originally moved in 10 years ago we just got cheap 1/2" rubber squares and cut them to fit, out of sight, out of mind. Never really thought about that until recently when I was deep cleaning and "oh yeah, this is kind of cheap." My question is can I just remove the mats and apply membrane, mortar and tile right over the wood? The wood appears to be in good condition (minus one board that may be old and needs to be replaced). Since this is in a non-insulated area, would that make any difference as to what kind of mortar I would need to use? Also, I think that between the threshold and the wood floor there is a difference of height that may be noticeable. I think with the rubber mats it's not too bad, but tile would likely not be tall enough on it's own. Would that be a situation where a piece of plywood above the existing floor would be the answer? Or is there a different kind of filler? I know it may be hard to answer since I don't have any real numbers or measurements yet.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

CzarChasm posted:

Cleaned everything, went to bed. Woke up, water in the bottom again, still no obvious cause.

So no water had been run. This leaves you with only one obvious option: it's a supply side issue, not a drain. Your faucet is leaking out of the bottom, one of the hoses is leaking, one of the shutoffs is leaking....... Potentially an issue with rising pressure (overnight, no hat water usage, tank getting fully up to temperature) if it's on the hot side which may indicate you have a bad expansion tank.

bobua
Mar 23, 2003
I'd trade it all for just a little more.

Update on permanent christmas light install.



I rented the boom lift, almost launched myself like a human catapult by not unlocking one of the transport locks before operating.


Installed half of the led's in the wrong direction.



Christmas ruined.

Deviant
Sep 26, 2003

i've forgotten all of your names.


bobua posted:

Update on permanent christmas light install.



I rented the boom lift, almost launched myself like a human catapult by not unlocking one of the transport locks before operating.


Installed half of the led's in the wrong direction.



Christmas ruined.

oh christmas yeet, oh christmas yeet

haveblue
Aug 15, 2005



Toilet Rascal

bobua posted:

Installed half of the led's in the wrong direction.

They make special extension cords for that, go to the hardware store and ask for one

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002

haveblue posted:

They make special extension cords for that, go to the hardware store and ask for one

Nice joke.

Dr. Lunchables
Dec 27, 2012

IRL DEBUFFED KOBOLD



Some folks need to feel the warm Christmas embrace of male to male kindness

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002
Well they do sell them at Walmart.com...

https://twitter.com/BubblegumOctopu/status/1731568478505611419/photo/1

OK, who wants to chime in and explain why these are called "suicide cords"?

Deviant
Sep 26, 2003

i've forgotten all of your names.


kid sinister posted:

Well they do sell them at Walmart.com...

https://twitter.com/BubblegumOctopu/status/1731568478505611419/photo/1

OK, who wants to chime in and explain why these are called "suicide cords"?

Because once you plug one into the mains, you now have exposed live metal.

Imagine sticking a fork in an electrical outlet, but the outlet part is on the outside.

https://twitter.com/kobunheat/status/1336134415336964096

tumblr hype man
Jul 29, 2008

nice meltdown
Slippery Tilde
So close to the nuclear waste site warnings lol.

the yeti
Mar 29, 2008

memento disco





The name for the strip that covers this kinda transition is a threshold right? For a case like this I’m assuming the sequence of steps is roughly:

Clean that gap and fill with caulk

Fit the threshold with screws on the interior side and adhesive on the exterior

Shave the threshold/adjust door sweep so the door closes well

Caulk around the perimeter of the threshold

I realize that getting the door to play nice can be really fraught but besides that am I missing anything?

(It’s way too cold to gently caress with this now it’s just one of those things that’s stuck in my head cause I see it every day)

bobua
Mar 23, 2003
I'd trade it all for just a little more.

haveblue posted:

They make special extension cords for that, go to the hardware store and ask for one

Lol, I wish, would have totally used the suicide cord.. No I diy'ed the tracking and literally install the led's in a few of them backwards, so I had to go find the backwards ones, take down the tracking, pop them out one by one and reverse them.

Real hurthling!
Sep 11, 2001




Im a dumbass at electricity. Please advise.

I have a 1000w farberware microwave on the same circuit as the gas range's dual fan fume hood.
If the fans are on, the microwave works fine in until it hits the point in its cycle where the sound changes as it kicks it up a notch or turns its own cooling fan on or whatever it's doing. Right after this happens the circuit trips.

I had it on another circuit before and it would trip if it was being used with a two slice bread toaster when it hit that same point in its cycle

Dont panic this isnt going to be about me doing novice electrical work.

Obviously i need a new microwave in this kitchen. Its either broken and exceeding what its rated for, or my circuits just cant take it.

Do you guys think i could get away with just a small bump down to a 900w model?
It seems like below that microwaves start getting super tiny and cant even fit a dinner plate.

space uncle
Sep 17, 2006

"I don’t care if Biden beats Trump. I’m not offloading responsibility. If enough people feel similar to me, such as the large population of Muslim people in Dearborn, Michigan. Then he won’t"


Real hurthling! posted:

Im a dumbass at electricity. Please advise.

I have a 1000w farberware microwave on the same circuit as the gas range's dual fan fume hood.
If the fans are on, the microwave works fine in until it hits the point in its cycle where the sound changes as it kicks it up a notch or turns its own cooling fan on or whatever it's doing. Right after this happens the circuit trips.

I had it on another circuit before and it would trip if it was being used with a two slice bread toaster when it hit that same point in its cycle

Dont panic this isnt going to be about me doing novice electrical work.

Obviously i need a new microwave in this kitchen. Its either broken and exceeding what its rated for, or my circuits just cant take it.

Do you guys think i could get away with just a small bump down to a 900w model?
It seems like below that microwaves start getting super tiny and cant even fit a dinner plate.

I think it would be cheaper and easier to either upgrade the breaker yourself or get an electrician to figure out if you can do so safely.

Real hurthling!
Sep 11, 2001




Microwaves cost like 90 bucks and i would have to hire someone to do anything

Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

space uncle posted:

I think it would be cheaper and easier to either upgrade the breaker yourself or get an electrician to figure out if you can do so safely.

If it's a 15 amp breaker being overloaded, you can't just swap in a 20 without determining if the wiring of the entire circuit and all attached outlets are rated for 20a.

That said, just a microwave and a toaster should not be overloading a 15a circuit. e. doing the math. A 1000 watt microwave at 120v draws 8.3 amps. A dual fan range hood could maybe draw 7+ amps? this article says 5-7. So at absolute max for both maybe you're tripping a 15A breaker. A toaster can easily pull 9 amps for a big 4 slicer, maybe half that for a 2 slicer.

A 900 watt microwave draws 7.5 amps. That might fix your problem or it might not.

Leperflesh fucked around with this message at 00:48 on Dec 7, 2023

Flipperwaldt
Nov 11, 2011

Won't somebody think of the starving hamsters in China?



Maybe the toaster and microwave can switch places? Like, if that reduces the likelihood a breaker tripping combo is used?

Real hurthling!
Sep 11, 2001




Flipperwaldt posted:

Maybe the toaster and microwave can switch places? Like, if that reduces the likelihood a breaker tripping combo is used?

Nah i cant go back to having this giant rear end farberware on that counter it takes up 60% of the surface area over there and makes it useless space

Probably gonna get the smaller one and see how it goes.

Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

New builds typically put a bunch of 20A circuits in the kitchen but some old homes might have 15s. You should check, because if you're routinely tripping a 20A circuit breaker, something may be wrong that you should have checked out.

Real hurthling!
Sep 11, 2001




built in the 1920s

Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

oh, ok, so you probably have like, abandoned old gas lamp lines, knob and tube, maybe some aluminum wire, who knows. Fun!

wesleywillis
Dec 30, 2016

SUCK A MALE CAMEL'S DICK WITH MIRACLE WHIP!!
It would probably still require an electrician, so maybe not cheaper, but could a worn out 15a breaker be the culprit?
Like its old/worn enough that it now trips at 13a draw because of thousands of heat and cool cycles?

Its probably not the same, but I've had that happen with generators. Things start tripping that normally don't, I replace the breaker with one of the same capacity, and it stops happening.

Real hurthling!
Sep 11, 2001




The microwave could just be hosed up

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PainterofCrap
Oct 17, 2002

hey bebe



When I rehabbed my kitchen I ran separate lines (on separate breakers) for the microwave, dishwasher and toasters (one modern 4-slice and one 1950s 2-slice), for this exact reason. We had a 1200W Panasonic Genius Premiere and when running the 1984 KitchenAid at the same time, it would trip the breaker when the DW mechanical timer/relay would kick to a new circuit.

Lights in the bathroom would flicker, too.

Chances are there's nothing wrong with the microwave (although I get swapping a counter hog for something that leaves more space) and your best bet will be not running those two simultaneously even with a new micro if that is possible, until you can run what line supplies the micro to a separate, less demanded circuit

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