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cruft
Oct 25, 2007

Nerobro posted:

I firmly believe Cura is only popular because Ultimaker let everyone skin it with their own brand, not because it was "good".

Cura seems to be where most of the R&D output shows up first. It's good, but it's okay for you to prefer something else. I mean, I do :)

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Tiny Timbs
Sep 6, 2008

The shareware version of my slicer is going to embed ads in the infill

armorer
Aug 6, 2012

I like metal.

Nerobro posted:

If things make no sense, it's almost always the nozzle. Followed closely by mechincal issues. The "bubbles" you were reporting, and lack of adhesion was underextrusion. First thing to try when you're having massive underextrusion is replacing the nozzle. The next step would be replacing the plastic extruder head with an aluminum one.

I need to re-check. But for the longest time, the algorithms in cura left rougher surface finishes. I believe I can still "see" a cura print versus a Simplify3d or Slic3r based slicer.

I firmly believe Cura is only popular because Ultimaker let everyone skin it with their own brand, not because it was "good".

You can fine tune the surface finish settings in Cura if you want. There are a whole bunch of videos on eliminating gaps in the top layer by tweaking different Cura settings. What works well for one print might not work as well for another, it's going to be geometry dependent.

Nerobro
Nov 4, 2005

Rider now with 100% more titanium!

armorer posted:

You can fine tune the surface finish settings in Cura if you want. There are a whole bunch of videos on eliminating gaps in the top layer by tweaking different Cura settings. What works well for one print might not work as well for another, it's going to be geometry dependent.

The problem is you NEED to tune surface finishes. And you still see the geometric artifacts. What you're describing just.. isn't.. an issue with Slic3r based software. "the things you ~can~ fix" in cura are things that NEED fixing in cura.

So... why would someone use cura now? Fuzzy surfaces. I think.. that's it.. now.

Hypnolobster
Apr 12, 2007

What this sausage party needs is a big dollop of ketchup! Too bad I didn't make any. :(

The only use case I personally have for Cura is that it still has dramatically better support interfaces than prusaslicer or it's variants.

It still otherwise works just fine, pick your slicer based on whichever slicer you like.

Tiny Timbs
Sep 6, 2008

Dang I should've switched to OrcaSlicer earlier. It imports everything from BambuSlicer so there's practically no setup, and it sounds like it fixes the issue I had where Bambu's implementation of slowdown for overhangs resulted in defects.

Nerobro
Nov 4, 2005

Rider now with 100% more titanium!

Hypnolobster posted:

The only use case I personally have for Cura is that it still has dramatically better support interfaces than prusaslicer or it's variants.

It still otherwise works just fine, pick your slicer based on whichever slicer you like.

I forgot it managed support interfaces better. ... though you wouldn't be able to tell from looking at the 3dp2a community. Yeeesh.

There was a time I'd break out cura for tree supports, but that made it to the Slic3r chain too.

Roundboy
Oct 21, 2008
As of the latest Orcaslicer, its not respecting your max volumetric flow value across speeds. Example is that if i say max is 24m^3 for my hotend, but I set my speeds high, the slicer will ignore that and happily try and extrude at much higher then 24.

I really don't feel like manually calculating .4 nozzle * layer height * speed is less then max for every feature type. I also cant remember if they are PS based or SS based with widths. PS is nozzle sized base. SS is layer height base and you need to tune differently switching between software

Variable 5
Apr 17, 2007
We do these things not because they are easy, but because we thought they would be easy.
Grimey Drawer

Javid posted:

e: also, holy poo poo if a slicer showed me even one ad I would nuke it from my hard drive that very minute, much less the implications made by the phrase "free slicing" :barf:

unlock PETG by watching this Raid: Shadow Legends teaser

DoLittle
Jul 26, 2006
Terrace awning mounting hardware set is now almost complete. Just four side attachment points of a bit different design still to be done. Probably in ASA those.

The goal is that the 6x7 m awning could handle >25 m/s winds and heavy rains with these. Now I just have to wait for the snow to melt to install.

So far these are in ASA (white), PAHT-CF (black) and PETG (gray) + one test version in TPU (black as well).

Eryones cheap ASA (12,95€/kg in 10 kg set) seems indistinguishable from Bambu ASA. Their cardboard spools also work as-is in AMS. Their 11,95 €/kg (in 10 kg sets) TPU printed fine as well with ”generic TPU” profile. With Bambu PETG there have been first layer problems, though. Easily the most difficult to print filament for me so far.

A source for cheap PAHT-CF filament is still to be found. :dumb:



DoLittle fucked around with this message at 19:04 on Dec 12, 2023

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002

Javid posted:

ooh ooh I bet it looks like this

Pretty much, but not as extreme.

Tiny Timbs
Sep 6, 2008

Cardboard spools work fine in the AMS, the issue is they generate dust that gets into the innards of the AMS feeder mechanism that's impossible to clean. I saw the results in a reddit post and it's not pretty.

Bondematt
Jan 26, 2007

Not too stupid

DoLittle posted:

Terrace awning mounting hardware set is now almost complete. Just four side attachment points of a bit different design still to be done. Probably in ASA those.

The goal is that the 6x7 m awning could handle >25 m/s winds and heavy rains with these. Now I just have to wait for the snow to melt to install.

So far these are in ASA (white), PAHT-CF (black) and PETG (gray) + one test version in TPU (black as well).

Eryones cheap ASA (12,95€/kg in 10 kg set) seems indistinguishable from Bambu ASA. Their cardboard spools also work as-is in AMS. Their 11,95 €/kg (in 10 kg sets) TPU printed fine as well with ”generic TPU” profile. With Bambu PETG there have been first layer problems, though. Easily the most difficult to print filament for me so far.

A source for cheap PAHT-CF filament is still to be found. :dumb:



Neat! I've taken to ASA recently so might need to check that out! I've basically stopped printing PETG except for clear now.

Definitely print rings for the cardboard spools.

DoLittle
Jul 26, 2006
These ones have closed edges, not cut out of cardboard. I don’t think they emit much dust, but we’ll see.

Acid Reflux
Oct 18, 2004

Been thinking about, but have not yet tried, just stretching a large rubber band around the rims of my cardboard spools for AMS use. In my imagination that'll help with both traction and dust mitigation.

AlexDeGruven
Jun 29, 2007

Watch me pull my dongle out of this tiny box


Decided to give the Cool Plate another go in the X1C. Been having adhesion issues with my 3rd party plates and have poo poo to print before new ones would arrive. Giving it a test print, so here we go.

Acid Reflux posted:

Been thinking about, but have not yet tried, just stretching a large rubber band around the rims of my cardboard spools for AMS use. In my imagination that'll help with both traction and dust mitigation.

I did the electrical tape on the cardboard spool I have in the AMS now and it seems to be working well.

cruft
Oct 25, 2007

Printed some TPU for the first time ever last night. It was fine. Having a nice printer that just works takes some of the excitement out of the hobby, in a good way.

How do you jerks handle little one off filaments like this? I got a bit of green TPU in a Polymaker sample pack, but I'm all out of brown PLA now, and, like, do I really want 1kg of brown PLA junking up the living room?

Are there any places that will sell me, like, 200g of a color I choose?

Nerobro
Nov 4, 2005

Rider now with 100% more titanium!

cruft posted:

Are there any places that will sell me, like, 200g of a color I choose?
At the same price as a kilogram. Sure. Sample packs are out there.

cruft
Oct 25, 2007

Nerobro posted:

At the same price as a kilogram. Sure. Sample packs are out there.

Any recommendations? My usual haunts do not seem to offer this.

armorer
Aug 6, 2012

I like metal.

cruft posted:

Any recommendations? My usual haunts do not seem to offer this.

Paint, or else just a bookshelf full of filaments. The main problem I have with keeping a bunch of colors on hand is that they get wet over time so you need to be prepared to dry out the ones that sit for a long time. With PLA they should still have a pretty good shelf life, but some other filaments you'll want to be sure you put in a vacuum bag with dessicant or something similar. Some folks make a dry bin to store multiple rolls in.

For my part, since I don't have anything like AMS, I generally resort to paint if I need something in a color I don't have on hand. I print a lot in plain grey, so that's what I like to stock.

Nerobro
Nov 4, 2005

Rider now with 100% more titanium!

cruft posted:

Any recommendations? My usual haunts do not seem to offer this.

You can find 200-500g spools of filament on amazon all the time. They cost the same as a kilogram. I was saying, in a round about way "you can get what you want, but you don't want that."

Tiny Timbs
Sep 6, 2008

I think this is my favorite X1C mod so far:

https://makerworld.com/en/models/83480#profileId-89128

No more accidentally skipping the build plate over the guide!

Acid Reflux
Oct 18, 2004

Tiny Timbs posted:

I think this is my favorite X1C mod so far:

https://makerworld.com/en/models/83480#profileId-89128

No more accidentally skipping the build plate over the guide!
Oh, thank you! I don't have any trouble with my P1Ps, but for some reason my aim is always godawful in the P1S and it takes me a few tries to get the stupid thing settled in place. This will be immensely helpful.

AlexDeGruven posted:

I did the electrical tape on the cardboard spool I have in the AMS now and it seems to be working well.
So far I haven't had any actual trouble with the few cardboard spools that I do have, but the dust thing is a bit worrisome. Might be worth taping them up for that alone.

Aside from the rubber band thing, it's crossed my mind that someone with the ability to manufacture them could probably make a buck or three on some stretchy silicone spool edge rings. Or maybe that's a really poo poo idea, who knows?

Variable 5
Apr 17, 2007
We do these things not because they are easy, but because we thought they would be easy.
Grimey Drawer

cruft posted:

Any recommendations? My usual haunts do not seem to offer this.

https://atomicfilament.com/collections/samples

cruft
Oct 25, 2007


:swoon: thank you

8-bit Miniboss
May 24, 2005

CORPO COPS CAME FOR MY :filez:

Tiny Timbs posted:

I think this is my favorite X1C mod so far:

https://makerworld.com/en/models/83480#profileId-89128

No more accidentally skipping the build plate over the guide!

Ooh thanks. I like this and will probably be my first non-PLA print.

Bondematt
Jan 26, 2007

Not too stupid

Tiny Timbs posted:

I think this is my favorite X1C mod so far:

https://makerworld.com/en/models/83480#profileId-89128

No more accidentally skipping the build plate over the guide!

OK this rules.

I've just begrudgingly re-landed the plate 2 or 3 times until I get it right.

armorer
Aug 6, 2012

I like metal.

It says those are only 50 grams each, which is about enough to print a sample tag, but not much more.

cruft
Oct 25, 2007

armorer posted:

It says those are only 50 grams each, which is about enough to print a sample tag, but not much more.

I'll take it. 50g is generally all I need of a specific color, and I'm happy to pay $5 for just the right amount, rather than storing dozens of 950g spools all over the place.

Unperson_47
Oct 14, 2007



Tiny Timbs posted:

I think this is my favorite X1C mod so far:

https://makerworld.com/en/models/83480#profileId-89128

No more accidentally skipping the build plate over the guide!

I printed a similar thing for my Neptune 3 Pro and it's also my favorite mod. It's such a simple idea and helps you index the build plate to the right location.

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002
If I only print PLA, is there any downside to using harder nozzles if the price is right? Because hardened steel is only a buck more than brass in the few K1 nozzles available for my SV07.

Bondematt
Jan 26, 2007

Not too stupid

kid sinister posted:

If I only print PLA, is there any downside to using harder nozzles if the price is right? Because hardened steel is only a buck more than brass in the few K1 nozzles available for my SV07.

Stick with brass unless you plan to print abrasives.

Steel has lower heat transfer, and without a need I wouldn't recommend switching to it.

Javid
Oct 21, 2004

:jpmf:
speaking as a cheap brass nozzle fan - If they're relatively cheap I would grab them just to have one in case you want to print abrasives ever.

cruft
Oct 25, 2007

Javid posted:

speaking as a cheap brass nozzle fan - If they're relatively cheap I would grab them just to have one in case you want to print abrasives ever.

The day will come when you want to print glow-in-the-dark filament.

It's nothing to be ashamed of, it happens to everyone.

Rexxed
May 1, 2010

Dis is amazing!
I gotta try dis!

I usually use Cura since it's been fine for years and I haven't had any real reason to switch, but this holiday season it couldn't slice one of the Cinderwing dragons, it'd just fail and tell me to submit a bug report. It's a weird one because it sliced successfully on 4.8 but not 5.5 or above. It sliced in Prusaslicer as well. Anyway I'm currently printing it on my Ender 3 and it looks good so far. I've modified the Ender 3 a fair bit but it's still really consistent and it's coming out of 8 months of non use and going right back to it.

mrbass21
Feb 1, 2009
Also, apparently prusaslicer can’t print over USB… so I guess I’ll stay with Cura.

Javid
Oct 21, 2004

:jpmf:

cruft posted:

The day will come when you want to print glow-in-the-dark filament.

It's nothing to be ashamed of, it happens to everyone.

I have also encountered no issues with it in brass (because I've printed little bits off the same roll intermittently over 2 years between regular nozzle changes, so it didn't hog out any one nozzle appreciably)

Roundboy
Oct 21, 2008
Ok, I had a good run with the voron, but the dragon HF just heat creeping itself with pla is annoying. It's likely a combination of that, a wrong thermistor temp, and just a bunch of smaller stuff making everything work fine, just pla stops moving through.

A rapido hf is on the way, along with some lights and other bits and bobs. This whole thing is coming apart for a motion system redo, and the build plate especially getting love since that is wobbling, throwing my z off

Any things I absolutely must print to update? Looking at rama's updated idlers, and some sort of top riser to give me a full 300 z print height

Looking to make my side panels easily detachable, and whatever stuff strikes my fancy after having the bambu print me a new stealth burner and heater parts

deimos
Nov 30, 2006

Forget it man this bat is whack, it's got poobrain!

Roundboy posted:

Ok, I had a good run with the voron, but the dragon HF just heat creeping itself with pla is annoying. It's likely a combination of that, a wrong thermistor temp, and just a bunch of smaller stuff making everything work fine, just pla stops moving through.

A rapido hf is on the way, along with some lights and other bits and bobs. This whole thing is coming apart for a motion system redo, and the build plate especially getting love since that is wobbling, throwing my z off

Any things I absolutely must print to update? Looking at rama's updated idlers, and some sort of top riser to give me a full 300 z print height

Looking to make my side panels easily detachable, and whatever stuff strikes my fancy after having the bambu print me a new stealth burner and heater parts

Rama idlers have been somewhat superceded by clee's BFI. As far as toolhead, Xol is probably a good choice, at least until archetype is out, ignore this sentence if you're not planning on replacing the toolhead (but I recommend it if you're having heat creep issues). As for panels, I only know of the 1515 zero panels, I still use stock on my 2.4. Keep in mind that anything you use to replace the stock ones need to be fairly rigid.

Nearly forgot: if it's a 2.4 you can also switch the z mounts to either ge5c or the annex ones. This will give you more Z.

deimos fucked around with this message at 02:13 on Dec 13, 2023

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kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002

Javid posted:

speaking as a cheap brass nozzle fan - If they're relatively cheap I would grab them just to have one in case you want to print abrasives ever.

There are barely any K1 nozzles out there. There is no just "one". Smallest quantity I saw was 5.

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