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Google Butt posted:A1 went live btw. Nozzle design more susceptible to heat creep?
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Dec 14, 2023 17:01
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ilkhan posted:Stick with the P1S+AMS. But yes, yes it is. As close as a 3D printer can get anyway. Tiny Timbs above isn't wrong, there are still occasional issues to deal with. I've read the automatic flow calibration that the X1C has and P1S does not is a big convenience which is what makes me want the X1C.
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Dec 14, 2023 17:04
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I've had zero issues with my X1C.
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Dec 14, 2023 17:07
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SpartanIvy posted:I've read the automatic flow calibration that the X1C has and P1S does not is a big convenience which is what makes me want the X1C. P1P has been great, and I'd rather have a couple cheaper ones than the x1c to be honest
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Dec 14, 2023 17:45
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in the current state of printers, i would grab a P1P vs the new A1. If i needed yet another printer after that, it would be a PIx / AMS combo. The only thing that would deter me off that path is if a larger bambu product or a bambu killer (not you creality) came out. Maybe that printer using magnetic rails if it ever comes to fruition. Bambu has done wonders for the ERCF process as I likely need to add new parts to enable filament cutting, etc. But i ABSOLUTELY need to add a filament runout sensor to this setup. I am done running out because i suck at monitoring / estimating
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Dec 14, 2023 17:58
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Google Butt posted:A1 went live btw. Glancing at their FAQ, I noticed they have a picture of the control board. It's only being cooled by a thermal pad and heatsink. That is possibly why. The X1C, P1S have a fan as part of the cooling solution there. Even the P1P to P1S upgrade kit includes one for that.
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Dec 14, 2023 18:30
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8-bit Miniboss posted:Glancing at their FAQ, I noticed they have a picture of the control board. It's only being cooled by a thermal pad and heatsink. That is possibly why. The X1C, P1S have a fan as part of the cooling solution there. Even the P1P to P1S upgrade kit includes one for that. Makes sense. I ordered one anyway, decided to skip the ams for now.
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Dec 14, 2023 18:35
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I am only ever going to have a single 3D printer at a time so the utility of multiple printers vs a single X1 is not important to me. I want the best and most user friendly experience possible, even if some of those minor benefits come at a premium. I appreciate everyone's thoughts so far and it sounds like a P1S is a much better value than the X1C but I'm still leaning towards the X1C because it seems like it has some nice quality of life features that will limit my prep-to-print time.
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Dec 14, 2023 18:37
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As long as you recognize that you are paying more for marginal features and can afford the difference, go ahead. The X1c is a better printer than the P1S, even if it's not the best value or $/perf. You getting the AMS as well?
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Dec 14, 2023 19:05
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I’ll also throw out that I wanted the X1C purely for the lidar flow calibration. I’ve not had any issues on the P1S and can say I’m happy I hard the money I saved on AMS and filament instead. Just another point of view.
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Dec 14, 2023 19:31
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ilkhan posted:https://us.store.bambulab.com/products/a1?variant=41583355232392 US link. Hell yeah, that's exactly where I was hoping it would be! Bondematt posted:There's a $400 gap there. $300 to P1P
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Dec 14, 2023 19:39
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ilkhan posted:As long as you recognize that you are paying more for marginal features and can afford the difference, go ahead. The X1c is a better printer than the P1S, even if it's not the best value or $/perf. You getting the AMS as well? Probably. I'm still deciding how much I want multi material/multi color. I do like the idea of storing 4 spools of filament on top of the machine with ready access since space is at a premium in my small house and the less boxes of accessories and supplies I have to store the better.
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Dec 14, 2023 20:25
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I have like 8 p1ps and have never had issues. I just changed the extruder on the first one I bought as it wasnt pulling anymore and it's back to running flawless prints. And these things have not stopped printing since I got them.
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Dec 14, 2023 21:19
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SpartanIvy posted:Probably. I'm still deciding how much I want multi material/multi color. I do like the idea of storing 4 spools of filament on top of the machine with ready access since space is at a premium in my small house and the less boxes of accessories and supplies I have to store the better. Another nice thing is that you can set the AMS such that if you have the same type/color of filament loaded in in multiple slots, the AMS will automatically load the other slot when it runs out of filament on the slot it’s on. So if I have blue PLA in slots 2 and 4 and my print uses up all of slot 2, the printer will automatically load 4 and keep printing (after a brief flush)
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Dec 14, 2023 21:41
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queeb posted:I have like 8 p1ps and have never had issues. I just changed the extruder on the first one I bought as it wasnt pulling anymore and it's back to running flawless prints. And these things have not stopped printing since I got them. I'm sorry, but these printers are terrible and low quality, and even though we hate creality with a passion the K1 is better in all ways with its' bad firmware issues, warped beds, bad extruders, and more. Bambu will kill your grandma with it's botnet army. -signed the groupthink 3dp discord /s The p1p is a great printer, I'm glad I ordered one. the AMS is nice for even when I don't do Multi color printing because I just pick one of my commonly used colors in it and hit print. The only thing that I initially was sad about with the P1p over the X1 was the ability to skip an object but that's now a feature in the app .
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Dec 14, 2023 21:46
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I don’t understand the point of the A1 They’ve already got the A1 mini and the P1P, why introduce a bedslinger in between the two? Feels like a redundant part of the lineup
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Dec 14, 2023 22:05
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Lol yeah I had a buddy go into the local print store and and up buying a K1 and was like "oh yeah they said bambu had lots of problems and the k1 was super good and faster" and yadda yadda. I'm like first off their trying to sell you a k1 and they can't sell bambu stuff, and 2nd of all you know I'm running 8 of them 24/7 and have seen how good the prints are. Some people man
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Dec 14, 2023 22:16
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Sockser posted:I don’t understand the point of the A1 I think it's aimed directly at people considering the Prusa Mk4; it looks like it's got all the bells and whistles of the Mk4 for half the price, and you don't have to wait indefinitely for the MMU3 for Mk4 if you want multi-material printing
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Dec 14, 2023 22:24
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Sockser posted:I don’t understand the point of the A1 Almost seems like they want to have a product that goes head-to-head with the vast selection of bedslingers on the market. So that it is not coreXY vs. bedslingers, but their implementation of a bedslinger against the others.
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Dec 14, 2023 22:29
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I'm generally super happy with my Bambu, but they poo poo out the kind of software gotchas Prusa would never gently caress up in a million years. Like the new BambuSlicer just dropped with a variety of new features, like a new way to specify build plate type. Of course it reset all my saved production print jobs to a "Cool Plate" default, ignoring what they were set to before. 
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Dec 14, 2023 22:29
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The Chairman posted:I think it's aimed directly at people considering the Prusa Mk4; it looks like it's got all the bells and whistles of the Mk4 for half the price, and you don't have to wait indefinitely for the MMU3 for Mk4 if you want multi-material printing
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Dec 14, 2023 22:29
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Personally I just ordered the a1 without the ams over the p1p because of the price difference and not really having a need for materials outside of pla/petg, and it's currently available. I would like an enclosed printer if I'm being honest, but I don't feel terrible about settling for what's probably the best non fiddly bed slinger for $450 out the door. That being said, I'm a dumb guy though.
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Dec 14, 2023 23:14
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Sockser posted:I don’t understand the point of the A1 They’re making a price ladder. There’s tons of articles about how Apple does this, basically each model has an upsell that gets you close to the base price of the next model. The A1 mini with AMS is close to the base A1 price, but then you want the AMS with that too… but then you’re close to the price of a base P1, but then you want the AMS etc.
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Dec 14, 2023 23:54
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Google Butt posted:Personally I just ordered the a1 without the ams over the p1p because of the price difference and not really having a need for materials outside of pla/petg, and it's currently available. I would like an enclosed printer if I'm being honest, but I don't feel terrible about settling for what's probably the best non fiddly bed slinger for $450 out the door. This is completely valid, imo. The objectively correct way to shop for bambu printers is to pick your price range and just hit the button. Add in an "If you need an enclosure, pick starting with the P1S" and it takes care of the whole lineup. It really doesn't have to be more complicated than that.
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Dec 15, 2023 00:27
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Hypnolobster posted:This is completely valid, imo. The objectively correct way to shop for bambu printers is to pick your price range and just hit the button. Add in an "If you need an enclosure, pick starting with the P1S" and it takes care of the whole lineup. It really doesn't have to be more complicated than that. Yeah they absolutely nailed the pricing because if the base a1 were any more expensive I would have just opted for the mini.
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Dec 15, 2023 00:36
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My Christmas present come in today: a Revo 6 kit plus a couple Obxidian nozzles for my MK3S+. This should be fun to tinker with. I’m hoping once they release the MK3.5 upgrade they make a firmware to support the Revo too.
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Dec 15, 2023 01:05
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So I forgot to add a roll of filament to my a1 order and I don't feel like paying for shipping. Is the sunlu meta pla a good place to start for messing around?
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Dec 15, 2023 01:10
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poo poo if the a1s are good I'll probably pick a few up, cheap is good when I just need throughput and speed
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Dec 15, 2023 02:17
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queeb posted:poo poo if the a1s are good I'll probably pick a few up, cheap is good when I just need throughput and speed How much of your build volume do you routinely use? Minis are even cheaper.
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Dec 15, 2023 02:54
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Just ordered an A1 with AMS lite, super stoked! This is going to be a huge leap from all of my previous printers (that I no longer have). Rostock Max, Printrbot Play and a FLSun Cube. Also I’m trying to remember the name of a program that generates multicolored almost lithophane type models. I remember it being pretty popular like a year ago, it came with free filament or something like that. Anybody know what I’m talking about? Edit, Hueforge! Fatal fucked around with this message at 04:59 on Dec 15, 2023 |
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Dec 15, 2023 04:47
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ilkhan posted:True. i do a ton of buildings which take up a decent amount of space, but also a ton of small prints so yeah. probably just go with a regular a1 tbh. Also, for anyone looking for a store update, november was whack, cleared 24,000 in revenue in one month
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Dec 15, 2023 05:15
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queeb posted:i do a ton of buildings which take up a decent amount of space, but also a ton of small prints so yeah. probably just go with a regular a1 tbh. Just awesome! It’s crazy to me looking at your post history seeing you figuring out a calibration cube 18 months ago on a hand me down printer to this. Seriously impressive!
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Dec 15, 2023 06:05
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So I've learned a bunch by chasing my elephant's foot and lost 0.3 mm height around. I spent yesterday evening doing a deep dive into this old Ender 3 pro I got for free. I'm beginning to understand why someone called it "the cheapest printer that is worth having" or something along those lines. It's fundamentally a very flawed mechanical design to begin with. A reddit post has lead me to believe that I might just have a mechanical problem where the X gantry sticks a bit and resists changing direction of travel from down to up. A good and proper way to verify would be to borrow a dial indicator, the improper way would be to adjust the tension of the wheels it rides on and see if things improve. I don't like this gantry but I get that it's a cheap way to build a printer. I replaced my cooling fans with equally chintzy cooling fans, learned that I have the 1.1.4 motherboard and while I suck at software and computer stuff generally I think I know enough now that I won't be reflashing any firmware on this board. I'm toying with the idea of maybe getting a more modern 32 bit board that supposedly gives much more quiet running of the stepper motors, among other things that I don't understand what they mean other than people thinking it's "good". It's €50 for a creality board so not very expensive but I'm also realising that I will at some point want to upgrade to a printer that gives me more mechanical confidence in it's ability to ever actually be mechanically precise. Pouring money into this thing will never make it a great printer. It got me into this hobby and I know it's capable of making useful fairly precise prints but it won't ever be reliable in this regard. I guess that's OK for now but I don't think it's what I want long term. Over the course of 2 months I've gone from being an ignorant 3d printer sceptic to realising this is a tool I definitely don't want to be without. It may never become the society changing consumer revolution I heard some evangelists preaching years ago, but it's definitely a revolution for my lifelong tinkering hobby.
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Dec 15, 2023 06:40
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Invalido posted:So I've learned a bunch by chasing my elephant's foot and lost 0.3 mm height around. I spent yesterday evening doing a deep dive into this old Ender 3 pro I got for free. I'm beginning to understand why someone called it "the cheapest printer that is worth having" or something along those lines. It's fundamentally a very flawed mechanical design to begin with. A reddit post has lead me to believe that I might just have a mechanical problem where the X gantry sticks a bit and resists changing direction of travel from down to up. A good and proper way to verify would be to borrow a dial indicator, the improper way would be to adjust the tension of the wheels it rides on and see if things improve. I don't like this gantry but I get that it's a cheap way to build a printer. What marlin version is it running? If it’s lower than 2.0, you want to reflash that ASAP to get thermal runaway protection. I believe that was the version it was added. Anyone here feel free to correct me if I’m wrong.
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Dec 15, 2023 07:06
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Hey neat. I just discovered if you buy a k1 or a k1 max, you can get a year of the premium service on their app for free. Also hey neat, this loving app sucks. I have had every single multiple model slice fail completely. Cannot believe they wanna charge 8 bucks a month or 80 bucks a year for this poo poo. So, yea. Printer is awesome, the app is annoying as hell. Pick a slicer and use it. Is octoprint still around?
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Dec 15, 2023 07:39
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mrbass21 posted:What marlin version is it running? If it’s lower than 2.0, you want to reflash that ASAP to get thermal runaway protection. I believe that was the version it was added. No idea about what I'm running, but it's old. I've skimmed this guide: https://all3dp.com/2/ender-3-pro-firmware-update-marlin/ which to me at least indicates that if I want thermal runaway protection I should probably just buy a modern board. There seems to be a few options, but cheapest and easiest would be the $50 creality 4.2.7 which will be a straight physical replacement, is way easier to reflash, comes with this important feature out of the box, apart from more silent running which I kind of want since the sound of whining stepper motors in a room used for other things is getting old. I don't know enough about what I want in a future long term printer yet, so a motherboard upgrade is maybe a good idea. I should probably live with this printer for at least a year and see where my mind is then.
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Dec 15, 2023 07:41
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Phrozen is gearing up to crowd fund a larger Bambu competitor: https://arco.phrozen3d.com/pages/phrozen-arco-fdm-3d-printer No word at all on potential pricing yet, but I did learn that it's going to be tied to their own proprietary slicer. No thank you!
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Dec 15, 2023 12:50
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Stupid_Sexy_Flander posted:Hey neat. I just discovered if you buy a k1 or a k1 max, you can get a year of the premium service on their app for free. Creality Cloud is hot garbage. It's a pretty typically Chinese manufacturing thrown together site. Fortunately I don't need it for my halot lite, and I can just send directly from their slicer.
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Dec 15, 2023 13:52
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AlexDeGruven posted:Creality Cloud is hot garbage. It's a pretty typically Chinese manufacturing thrown together site. Agreed. I bought their WiFi adapter thing to go with my Ender and found the app to be such trash that it motivated me to run Octoprint and Octopod on a spare Android phone instead
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Dec 15, 2023 14:28
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Invalido posted:No idea about what I'm running, but it's old. I've skimmed this guide: https://all3dp.com/2/ender-3-pro-firmware-update-marlin/ which to me at least indicates that if I want thermal runaway protection I should probably just buy a modern board. There seems to be a few options, but cheapest and easiest would be the $50 creality 4.2.7 which will be a straight physical replacement, is way easier to reflash, comes with this important feature out of the box, apart from more silent running which I kind of want since the sound of whining stepper motors in a room used for other things is getting old. I don't know enough about what I want in a future long term printer yet, so a motherboard upgrade is maybe a good idea. I should probably live with this printer for at least a year and see where my mind is then. I have two Ender 3 pros. One I bought years ago, and one I was gifted somewhat recently because someone couldn't get it to work. I made some basic upgrades to the first one, and then used it with no real issues until I got the second one. Since I now have two of them, I've applied a ton of upgrades to both of them, including upgrading the motherboards (to the BTT SKR E3 V3). The motherboard upgrade I did is almost a drop in replacement, but requires you to rewire one of the fans to add a plug to the wires. The silent stepper drivers are nice - once you are running an upgraded board (assuming your printer is otherwise stock) the loudest thing you'll hear is the power supply fan kicking on periodically. I also installed the BTT touchscreen on them because it provides a ton of quality of life upgrades, but it's completely unnecessary from a functional perspective. With the money that I've put into them at this point, if I include the price of the ender 3 pro itself, I could have bought a nicer printer that included these features out of the box. I'm one of those weirdos that enjoys tinkering though, and I've been upgrading them a bit at a time over a number of months, so there was never any one big outlay of money. Also the upgrade journey has taught me a hell of a lot about 3d printing that I wouldn't have learned if I had bought something that was more of an appliance. No upgrade that I'm aware of (or that I've done) will magically get you back your missing 0.3mm of height. The reason I asked to see pictures of your calibration cubes and asked about z-banding was because if you experience binding of the x-axis gantry as it travels up the z-axis, you should see or feel some banding as a result of that. Properly tightening the eccentric nuts will help with that, but there are other things that can contribute to it as well, particularly if your printer assembly was not done as meticulously as it generally needs to be with an ender 3 pro. There's a lot of discussion on the internet about tuning e-steps, but specifically NOT tuning z-steps because it's a factor of the geometry of the lead screw and should be correct from the factory. But... if I had a part that had to be as precise in the z-axis as possible and I was consistently off by a fraction of a mm, I would tune the z-steps for that part, then just set them back afterwards. (Or I would be even more lazy and just scale it along the z-axis in my slicer). There is some inherent slop in the z-axis with the flex connector and the mounting of the brass nut to the gantry, and the stepper motor fighting gravity which isn't happening on the x or y axis. In reality I'm not printing anything that matters if it loses 1% of the z dimension, so I haven't chased that particular aspect of printer accuracy yet with my printers. Depending on the material you're using and the post-processing you do (ie: annealing) you may already have to account for part shrinkage in your .stl file anyway. All the comments about thermal runaway protection are good and valid and a thing you should ensure you have. Another thing to look for with Enders is to see if the wires clamped in the terminal blocks are tinned or not. They should not be tinned, and it's a fire risk if they are. It's easy enough to cut them back a bit, twist the bare strands, and then re-clamp them. On my printers I've installed ferrules on those wires but you don't really have to go that far. armorer fucked around with this message at 14:38 on Dec 15, 2023 |
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