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Bremen
Jul 20, 2006

Our God..... is an awesome God

Boris Galerkin posted:

So for the people holding cash in Fidelity SPAXX, has the interest rates and returns always been comparable to normal online HYSA rates? I see they are comparable today but I’m trying to figure out if it’s always been more or less comparable.

I've only been doing it since the middle of this year so I can't really say. In general it probably roughly mirrors it, if only because the factors that drive the SPAXX rate also drive the interest rates of HYSAs. They're not directly linked, though, so there may be some differences.

Best I could come up with through some googling is this chart of the Ally HYSA rate (ignore the orange), and the average yearly yield of SPAXX:


(Current Ally HYSA yield is 4.25%)

Spaxx yields:
2018: 1.47%
2019: 1.84%
2020: 0.26%
2021: 0.01%
2022: 1.31%
2023: 4.33%

So similar trends, at least, though the SPAXX rate looks generally slightly lower, or at least Ally seems more moderated - when the rates are high SPAXX seems to be higher, when rates are lower SPAXX seems to be lower.

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daslog
Dec 10, 2008

#essereFerrari

Boris Galerkin posted:

So for the people holding cash in Fidelity SPAXX, has the interest rates and returns always been comparable to normal online HYSA rates? I see they are comparable today but I’m trying to figure out if it’s always been more or less comparable.

In theory, when the rates start to diverge, people will move the money from the lower rate to the higher rate and the change in demand will move the rates back towards each other.

pmchem
Jan 22, 2010


daslog posted:

In theory, when the rates start to diverge, people will move the money from the lower rate to the higher rate and the change in demand will move the rates back towards each other.

yeah. the general term for this in regards to "savings account vs. money market" is "deposit beta". it's been a hot topic the past couple years:

https://libertystreeteconomics.newyorkfed.org/2022/11/how-do-deposit-rates-respond-to-monetary-policy/
https://www.ft.com/content/a54da78a-d9dc-441d-a0d1-2f4684899a64

DNK
Sep 18, 2004



The Fed funds rate is the gray dotted line

It’s a good article, and this is the culmination of it. If the gap is positive, cash flows into MMF. If it’s negative, flows into banks.

DNK fucked around with this message at 16:58 on Dec 16, 2023

Antillie
Mar 14, 2015

drk posted:

I opened a CMA a month ago or so. I'll write up a short review at some point, but the summary is, its quite good. I wish I opened it earlier.

I've been considering opening one for a few months now and using it to replace my traditional checking account at Chase. My Chase account is truly free (its an old Washington Mutual account with terms that were grandfathered in) but it pays no interest and I don't care about the free access to Chase ATMs.

The only thing holding me back is that on very rare occasions I have needed to go into the local Chase branch to cash in old paper EE savings bonds. But once the last of those are done I'm fairly sure I could swap my employer's direct deposit over to Fidelity and start earning something from the money in my checking account. The only other reason to go into a branch in the past few years has been to get signature a guarantee on custodian to custodian IRA transfers but there is a Fidelity office nearby I can go to for stuff like that.

My only other concern is what if I end up with a check that is too large to deposit via the mobile app. This has only ever happened once but it sure would be a pain to have to go into a bank that I didn't have an account at and pay a fee or whatever. Would I be able to take such a check down to the local Fidelity office?

Subvisual Haze
Nov 22, 2003

The building was on fire and it wasn't my fault.
No reason you can't have more than one bank. Keep a small amount in the Chase or a local bank (enough to clear the minimum to avoid account fees if those exist), then you can continue to use them if necessary for in person stuff. That frees up the remainder of your savings, direct deposit, bill paying to go somewhere with better rates.

Happiness Commando
Feb 1, 2002
$$ joy at gunpoint $$

Yeah, IMO there's real advantage in being able to go into a branch. My primary checking is in Schwab, but I make sure I have an account at a local bank so I can do in-person stuff easily.

drk
Jan 16, 2005

Antillie posted:

My only other concern is what if I end up with a check that is too large to deposit via the mobile app. This has only ever happened once but it sure would be a pain to have to go into a bank that I didn't have an account at and pay a fee or whatever. Would I be able to take such a check down to the local Fidelity office?

The maximum check you can deposit via mobile app is customer specific, but a google suggests the limit is often $100k or more. You can mail in larger checks or take them to a Fidelity investor center.

Also, there is no reason you cant keep a local bank account. I intend to keep my local credit union account open indefinitely with a small amount of money in the account ($100 or so).

Residency Evil
Jul 28, 2003

4/5 godo... Schumi
There's no way to mimic Fidelity's CMA account with Schwab, is there? We keep a decent amount of money floating in our Schwab checking account and it'd be nice to have it doing something at least.

drk
Jan 16, 2005

Residency Evil posted:

There's no way to mimic Fidelity's CMA account with Schwab, is there? We keep a decent amount of money floating in our Schwab checking account and it'd be nice to have it doing something at least.

Schwab's current business model is paying lovely rates on cash, so no

drk
Jan 16, 2005
To expand a little more, here is a post from bh

a boglehead posted:

2 potentially important things that Schwab does not offer that Fidelity does (don't think other brokerages offer it either):

-Fidelity offers true treasury autoroll with no time out of the market. Schwab keeps your money out of the market 1 week and gives no interest.

-Fidelity will autoliquidate retail money market funds to settle withdrawals, ACH payments and security purchases. So you can keep money in a higher yielding money market fund instead of a settlement fund. Schwab does not offer this, and requires a manual sale of a money market fund.

Im using both these features in my CMA and they are good

Residency Evil
Jul 28, 2003

4/5 godo... Schumi
Bummer. It's making me think about switching everything over to Fidelity.

And then I think about how much that would be and i stop.

Jabarto
Apr 7, 2007

I could do with your...assistance.
Yeah I posted before about how I use Fidelity for basically everything and I'm very happy with it. Everything comes in and out of my CMA (including my direct deposit and any bills paid by direct debit), and then I distribute my savings/retirement investments into my other brokerage accounts/IRA's, respectively.

I do keep a checking account open at one of my local credit unions for the times I need to deposit cash, but those are rare enough that it's almost purely psychological and I'd probably be fine without it.

CubicalSucrose
Jan 1, 2013

Phantom my Opera and call me South Park: Bigger, Longer, & Uncut

Happiness Commando posted:

Yeah, IMO there's real advantage in being able to go into a branch. My primary checking is in Schwab, but I make sure I have an account at a local bank so I can do in-person stuff easily.

What are all the in-person things you've done over the past two years? I think I've really only done ATM withdrawals. Once I made a wire transfer but those are easier to do online with Schwab and I don't think I'll have to do another one for a very long time.

dpkg chopra
Jun 9, 2007

Fast Food Fight

Grimey Drawer
Had to get a same day certified check to not miss out on a locking down an apartment rental.

I had to do a wire transfer where the recipient’s info was in a weird format that the website couldn’t process.

After my wedding had to deposit a bunch of weird bills that atms wouldn’t accept.

Converting my account to joint was significantly easier in branch.

That’s 4 times over 5-6 years where going in branch has made my life significantly easier. This was across different cities as well, so it being a national bank helped even more.

Definitely worth losing out on some interest on the 1500 or so I need to not pay the fees.

Awkward Davies
Sep 3, 2009
Grimey Drawer

CubicalSucrose posted:

What are all the in-person things you've done over the past two years? I think I've really only done ATM withdrawals. Once I made a wire transfer but those are easier to do online with Schwab and I don't think I'll have to do another one for a very long time.

Yeah, I’ve been with Schwab for five years or so now and have only needed to go in once (to redeem EE bonds). I’ve deposited checks worth $70k with mobile deposit and not had any problems.

Valicious
Aug 16, 2010

Bremen posted:

Whether I-bonds would be better in treasury bills would be dependent on the inflation rate, so it's hard to say for sure, but I'd move them to something, if only another I-bond for the higher fixed rate, if you're sure you aren't going to want the money in less than a year.

Cashing out the I-bond now would cost you 3 months of interest; call it maybe 1%. If we ballpark inflation at 3% for the next four years, we get:

Current bond: 1*(1.03*1.004)^4 = 1.1436
New bond: .99*(1.03*1.013)^3.75 = 1.1616 (ish)

So you'd get nearly 2% better rate just by swapping over to a new I-bond with the higher fixed rate, and if you end up holding longer than 4 years that will steadily improve.

Treasury bills are harder to predict; they're getting nearly 5% now, but that's unlikely to last for four years with predicted rate drops. 5 year treasury bonds are currently running 3.91% yield, so if we take that as a rough prediction of how treasury bill rates will trend, we get:

Treasury Bond: .99*(1.039)^4 = 1.1537

Somewhere between the two, assuming inflation averages around 3% which is a mighty big assumption. So honestly unless you're hitting your I-bond cap this year I might consider just swapping it over to a new bond.

Thanks a bunch for this. TreasuryDirect let me redeem them all now, then I’m going to buy the 1.3% I Bonds.

dpkg chopra
Jun 9, 2007

Fast Food Fight

Grimey Drawer
Similar question to the poster above. I have some I bonds issued June 2022 with a composite rate of 3.94%.

Seems like a no brainer to sell them and buy the new ones? Even taking into account the LTCG hit?

Bremen
Jul 20, 2006

Our God..... is an awesome God

dpkg chopra posted:

Similar question to the poster above. I have some I bonds issued June 2022 with a composite rate of 3.94%.

Seems like a no brainer to sell them and buy the new ones? Even taking into account the LTCG hit?

The longer you're planning on holding the new bonds the better swapping them over looks. But assuming you're not likely to want the money in the next year, and won't be maxing your $10,000 yearly limit, I'd suggest selling them for something else yeah. There's lots of better options than 3.94%

Bremen fucked around with this message at 18:37 on Dec 17, 2023

drk
Jan 16, 2005

dpkg chopra posted:

Similar question to the poster above. I have some I bonds issued June 2022 with a composite rate of 3.94%.

Seems like a no brainer to sell them and buy the new ones? Even taking into account the LTCG hit?

I Bonds dont have capital gains.

If you havent bought your allocation for the year, yes you should sell them and buy new ones. If you are maxed for 2023, January works.

Mu Zeta
Oct 17, 2002

Me crush ass to dust

If you already maxed 2023 I Bonds then I would consider waiting until April 2024 before buying more. We'll have a much better idea if the fixed interest rate will go up or down, and you can still lock in the 1.3% if the trend looks bad.

e: and of course by bad I actually mean inflation is going back to normal, which is good, actually.

Mu Zeta fucked around with this message at 20:02 on Dec 17, 2023

Smashing Link
Jul 8, 2003

I'll keep chucking bombs at you til you fall off that ledge!
Grimey Drawer

Mu Zeta posted:

If you already maxed 2023 I Bonds then I would consider waiting until April 2024 before buying more. We'll have a much better idea if the fixed interest rate will go up or down, and you can still lock in the 1.3% if the trend looks bad.

e: and of course by bad I actually mean inflation is going back to normal, which is good, actually.

This is helpful advice, thank you.

ranbo das
Oct 16, 2013


Antillie posted:


My only other concern is what if I end up with a check that is too large to deposit via the mobile app. This has only ever happened once but it sure would be a pain to have to go into a bank that I didn't have an account at and pay a fee or whatever. Would I be able to take such a check down to the local Fidelity office?

Anecdotally but my mobile deposit limit is $250k and I can get that raised to $1m if I call. I've never had to, but my parents just bought a house so I helped them with the financing, and if you come to them with the problem of "oh no I have too much money" they will accommodate you.

MockingQuantum
Jan 20, 2012



I'm guessing this may be a product of it being mostly a physical bank vs. something like Fidelity where I'm sure a lot of their customer base only interacts with their online portion, but for some reason my mobile deposit limit with US Bank is the very strange number of $16,900.

Residency Evil
Jul 28, 2003

4/5 godo... Schumi
FWIW, it looks like Schwab lets me mobile deposit up to 100k. The one time I had a physical check that went above that I took it to a local office and they took care of it.

Man, mobile deposit is so much better than the old days of mailing checks to schwab.

Ungratek
Aug 2, 2005


USAA has a $100k limit but they did a one-day limit increase when I needed to deposit a larger check. I just had to call ahead of time to let them know.

Serious_Cyclone
Oct 25, 2017

I appreciate your patience, this is a tricky maneuver
I have run into problems with checks that I cannot mobile deposit, but not for being over a maximum cap. At my bank they will not allow mobile deposit on a check that doesn't contain a clear signature line for the sender, which means some business checks require me to deposit in-person.

daslog
Dec 10, 2008

#essereFerrari
I've been playing around with this S&P 500 historical return calculator. It makes a lot of other investments that I've seen over the years look like bad ideas.

https://dqydj.com/sp-500-return-calculator/

Ramrod Hotshot
May 30, 2003

Home for Christmas and took a look at my sister's finances. Basically, she called Fidelity a few years ago and used them as a financial advisor to make investments for her. So now there's a brokerage account with an array of Fidelity equities and bond funds, (a very large portion in a muni bond fund, that has lost money, for some reason). She's quitting her job and needs this money. C'est la vie. Is there any way to estimate what her taxes will be by selling?

Here's a simpler question. The target date fund in her Roth IRA is called the "Fidelity Freedom 2050 Fund", FFFHX. The expense ratio is a whopping 0.75%. Unless I'm missing something (not like this fund has phenomenal returns or anything),she should change it to something better, like maybe a Vanguard target date fund.

I'm thinking that Fidelity basically sold her a bill of goods, so to speak. Does that make sense?

jokes
Dec 20, 2012

Uh... Kupo?

Ramrod Hotshot posted:

Home for Christmas and took a look at my sister's finances. Basically, she called Fidelity a few years ago and used them as a financial advisor to make investments for her. So now there's a brokerage account with an array of Fidelity equities and bond funds, (a very large portion in a muni bond fund, that has lost money, for some reason). She's quitting her job and needs this money. C'est la vie. Is there any way to estimate what her taxes will be by selling?

Here's a simpler question. The target date fund in her Roth IRA is called the "Fidelity Freedom 2050 Fund", FFFHX. The expense ratio is a whopping 0.75%. Unless I'm missing something (not like this fund has phenomenal returns or anything),she should change it to something better, like maybe a Vanguard target date fund.

I'm thinking that Fidelity basically sold her a bill of goods, so to speak. Does that make sense?

The muni bond fund likely didn't lose money it likely lost market value, assuming they were holding them to maturity. I'd imagine it's generating positive income even if it lost 50% value or whatever.

Unless it's actually actively trading bonds (poorly).

Fidelity has really competitive index funds but their target date funds are comparatively very high fees. Schwab and Vanguard charge like 0.08%. Unless she's locked into that target date fund as a function of a 401(k) she should consider switching to a cheaper target date fund.

jokes fucked around with this message at 18:18 on Dec 22, 2023

Jabarto
Apr 7, 2007

I could do with your...assistance.
There are Fidelity Freedom Funds and Fidelity Freedom INDEX Funds. They're identical but one has an ER of 0.75% and the other is 0.22% or thereabouts. No, the site is not clear about this.

EDIT: I checked and it's actullay 0.12% for the one I'm in (FDEWX)

Jabarto fucked around with this message at 18:25 on Dec 22, 2023

SamDabbers
May 26, 2003



Ramrod Hotshot posted:

Home for Christmas and took a look at my sister's finances. Basically, she called Fidelity a few years ago and used them as a financial advisor to make investments for her. So now there's a brokerage account with an array of Fidelity equities and bond funds, (a very large portion in a muni bond fund, that has lost money, for some reason). She's quitting her job and needs this money. C'est la vie. Is there any way to estimate what her taxes will be by selling?

Depends on if the shares she's selling have been owned for less than or at least one year. The former is short-term gains which are taxed at the ordinary income rate, and the latter is long-term gains which are significantly lower - likely either 15% or 0% depending on her AGI for the year.

Ramrod Hotshot posted:

Here's a simpler question. The target date fund in her Roth IRA is called the "Fidelity Freedom 2050 Fund", FFFHX. The expense ratio is a whopping 0.75%. Unless I'm missing something (not like this fund has phenomenal returns or anything),she should change it to something better, like maybe a Vanguard target date fund.

Fidelity is sneaky and has both the "Fidelity Freedom 20xx Funds" with the stupid ER composed of actively managed funds and a second set of "Fidelity Freedom Index 20xx Funds" with a much more reasonable ER which are composed of low cost index funds. If she doesn't want to move the money out of Fidelity you should be able to sell the expensive one and buy the index version.

Ramrod Hotshot posted:

I'm thinking that Fidelity basically sold her a bill of goods, so to speak. Does that make sense?

Yeah, advisors do that. Fidelity will definitely try to upsell the unsavvy on their expensive active managed offerings.

drk
Jan 16, 2005

Ramrod Hotshot posted:

Is there any way to estimate what her taxes will be by selling?

In the portfolio view, if you click a position, you can see your gains/losses. Here's one of mine:



In this case, if I sold this entire position today I would have about $18 of short-term capital gains. Short term gains are taxed at normal income tax rates.

edit: also, if she is going to be unemployed for a while and has a large amount of gains, it would certainly be advisable to wait a couple weeks to January. That way she can pay the taxes in 2025 instead of 2024, which is both delaying it and potentially in a lower tax bracket.

drk fucked around with this message at 18:58 on Dec 22, 2023

Ramrod Hotshot
May 30, 2003

^^^^

Edit:oh wow that’s huge. Thanks



Thanks guys. Thats an easy fix for the target date fund (which is in a Roth IRA, not a 401k).

SamDabbers posted:

Depends on if the shares she's selling have been owned for less than or at least one year. The former is short-term gains which are taxed at the ordinary income rate, and the latter is long-term gains which are significantly lower - likely either 15% or 0% depending on her AGI for the year.

Huh, I didn’t know this. This one year rule ids true for shares of anything in a brokerage account?

Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

wait is she going to cash out of a Roth IRA? It is not a simple matter of calculating capital gains taxes. The posters responding with that are assuming this is a normal brokerage account and not an IRA.

See: https://www.investopedia.com/ask/answers/082515/how-do-you-calculate-penalties-ira-or-roth-ira-early-withdrawal.asp

or does she have both a brokerage account and and IRA? She should strongly prefer to liquidate and cash out stuff from a brokerage account before touching an IRA, because of the early withdrawal penalty.

Ramrod Hotshot
May 30, 2003

Leperflesh posted:



or does she have both a brokerage account and and IRA? She should strongly prefer to liquidate and cash out stuff from a brokerage account before touching an IRA, because of the early withdrawal penalty.

correct, two different things. the brokerage account's getting cash out. she's just switching funds in the roth ira.

SamDabbers
May 26, 2003



Ramrod Hotshot posted:

Huh, I didn’t know this. This one year rule ids true for shares of anything in a brokerage account?

Yes
https://www.investopedia.com/terms/c/capital_gains_tax.asp

GhostofJohnMuir
Aug 14, 2014

anime is not good

daslog posted:

I've been playing around with this S&P 500 historical return calculator. It makes a lot of other investments that I've seen over the years look like bad ideas.

https://dqydj.com/sp-500-return-calculator/

scott cederburg has a new paper out that finds a mix of domestic and international stocks with no bonds is the safest portfolio using fixed inflation adjusted withdrawals from a global historical perspective, with the caveat that someone holding it would need to not react some massive short term volatility. one of the main points is that inflation tends to eat nominal bonds alive over the long term

i'm honestly not sure how i feel about it, but it does make my massive equity position feel more academically rigorous

rational reminder just did an episode interviewing him

https://rationalreminder.ca/podcast/284

CubicalSucrose
Jan 1, 2013

Phantom my Opera and call me South Park: Bigger, Longer, & Uncut
I'm going to (probably temporarily unless I get incredibly lucky) stop working for a while in 2024. Is there a thread or set of resources or something for "sabbaticals?"

I expect I'm going to not do anything at all to earn money for at least 9 months, possibly up to about 3 years at the high end, probably.

I have incorporated COBRA & Health Care Marketplace insurance nonsense already. I'm familiar with the ACA subsidy cliff removal and how that all works, though it won't be relevant for me for 2024.

I understand Roth conversion ladders and capital gains harvesting and plan to strategically tax-shift up to sensible marginal tax thresholds.

I'll have my resume updated. I've got resources to re-prep for interviews eventually, and have been maintaining a reasonably strong-ish professional network. Even if it takes me a while fuckton of time to get re-employed, I'll be fine enough. My baseline annual expenses are a very low percentage of my "typical" income, and I could probably go infinite or close to it doing gig work or other low-wage/skill work, if necessary.

I have no debt and "own" my own house (aside from property taxes). I've got a HELOC to re-lever myself up, if poo poo really hits the fan for some reason.

What might I be missing?

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caluki
Nov 12, 2000
I did a backdoor Roth conversion last month using Fidelity. For some reason I couldn't complete it online and had the call Fidelity so they could process the conversion from traditional IRA to Roth on their end. That was fine, but meant the $6500 sat in the traditional IRA account for slightly longer and generated $.89 cents that appeared after the conversion took place. What's the simplest way to deal with that and get rid of the balance? I'm planning to do another backdoor Roth conversion early in the new year.

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