Register a SA Forums Account here!
JOINING THE SA FORUMS WILL REMOVE THIS BIG AD, THE ANNOYING UNDERLINED ADS, AND STUPID INTERSTITIAL ADS!!!

You can: log in, read the tech support FAQ, or request your lost password. This dumb message (and those ads) will appear on every screen until you register! Get rid of this crap by registering your own SA Forums Account and joining roughly 150,000 Goons, for the one-time price of $9.95! We charge money because it costs us money per month for bills, and since we don't believe in showing ads to our users, we try to make the money back through forum registrations.
 
  • Post
  • Reply
Warbird
May 23, 2012

America's Favorite Dumbass

Does anyone have a notion as to why my print skirts seems uniformly awful but the actual prints are fine? They’re stringy messes that fail to attach half the time. If the model was also failing or acting similarly I’d understand that but the first layer of the actual thing is fine. Is there a Cura setting I’m missing? (Almost certainly yes)

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

BlackIronHeart
Aug 2, 2004

PROCEED
Got any pics?

WhiteHowler
Apr 3, 2001

I'M HUGE!
I'm printing a few chunky pieces for a board game insert, and I'm getting corner lifting on this specific piece. It wasn't too bad the first time I printed it, but I rotated this one 90 degrees to see if it would help, and the same corner (as seen by the camera) is lifting even worse.



This is a Bambu P1P with mostly default settings. Printing IIIDmax PLA+ at 220C on a 65C textured PEI plate. I did auto-leveling before each print.

Any ideas? I've printed large things before with no issues, but this one's posing a problem.

Edit: Both of the "front" corners actually lifted, though the one closest to the camera is worse. Weird that it lifts but the brim stayed perfectly adhered.

WhiteHowler fucked around with this message at 02:51 on Dec 31, 2023

BMan
Oct 31, 2015

KNIIIIIIFE
EEEEEYYYYE
ATTAAAACK



The brim is clearly not attaching properly, try mouse ears instead (the kind where they fuse with the part and you have to cut them off with a knife)

Javid
Oct 21, 2004

:jpmf:
To clarify, you rotated the part and the corner in the same part of the bed lifted? I would suspect a dirty bed in that case

WhiteHowler
Apr 3, 2001

I'M HUGE!

BMan posted:

The brim is clearly not attaching properly, try mouse ears instead (the kind where they fuse with the part and you have to cut them off with a knife)
Honestly, I could probably print something this chunky without a brim. Not sure how to do mouse ears in Bambu studio. I've seen people on Reddit suggest setting the brim gap to zero, but I feel like that's kind of a band-aid for a bigger problem.

Javid posted:

To clarify, you rotated the part and the corner in the same part of the bed lifted? I would suspect a dirty bed in that case
Yes. The front-left area of the bed seems to be lifting the most, and the front-right is lifting a little. I'll try cleaning it, but I just hit it with dish soap and a crazy good rinse a couple of days ago, and I'm very careful not to touch the plate.

Edit: The one setting I changed before this started happening was going from Gyroid infill to Adaptive Cubic. I'll try switching it back for the next print, but I doubt that's the issue.

WhiteHowler fucked around with this message at 03:09 on Dec 31, 2023

BMan
Oct 31, 2015

KNIIIIIIFE
EEEEEYYYYE
ATTAAAACK


To be honest, even if the brim was attached properly, it would probably just rip the whole thing off. Big boxes are the worst case scenario of warping.

The Chairman
Jun 30, 2003

But you forget, mon ami, that there is evil everywhere under the sun
3DHub.ca has double-sided smooth PEX plates for the X1/P1 for $18 right now; I picked one up and it's been pretty good so far, especially for a third of the price of Wham Bam's single-sided PEX plates

Roundboy
Oct 21, 2008

deimos posted:

Rama idlers have been somewhat superceded by clee's BFI. As far as toolhead, Xol is probably a good choice, at least until archetype is out, ignore this sentence if you're not planning on replacing the toolhead (but I recommend it if you're having heat creep issues). As for panels, I only know of the 1515 zero panels, I still use stock on my 2.4. Keep in mind that anything you use to replace the stock ones need to be fairly rigid.

Nearly forgot: if it's a 2.4 you can also switch the z mounts to either ge5c or the annex ones. This will give you more Z.

I am happy with the z idlers , but the x/y ones have been nothing but a pain in the rear end. I have very little travel distance in them and once i feel the belt is tensioned, it turns out the idle wheel is flush against the front plate and will not turn.

Maybe i am doing something wrong but i have spend WAY to long getting the x/y motion system back up and its just fighting me. Reinstalling the voron spec idlers.

deimos
Nov 30, 2006

Forget it man this bat is whack, it's got poobrain!

Roundboy posted:

I am happy with the z idlers , but the x/y ones have been nothing but a pain in the rear end. I have very little travel distance in them and once i feel the belt is tensioned, it turns out the idle wheel is flush against the front plate and will not turn.

Maybe i am doing something wrong but i have spend WAY to long getting the x/y motion system back up and its just fighting me. Reinstalling the voron spec idlers.

Weird. I had to loosen my belts a few notches, but they are running well, albeit at self destructive tension (220Hz) to compensate for my old cheap Y rails (turns out the lubing hole on them is fake so the balls are all rusty). They're getting switched with aluminum plates but just because the printer is finally getting 48V 5160 driving LDO super power steppers.

Warbird
May 23, 2012

America's Favorite Dumbass

BlackIronHeart posted:

Got any pics?

I’ll see if I can grab anything from the timelapse, but I doubt it’ll be usable.

queeb
Jun 10, 2004

m



well here's my totals for my full first year on etsy:



i actually have a 500USD order coming in today and the guy that bought 6k worth of stuff off me last month just asked if i wanted to paint all the buildings he bought so im gonna quote him some high number because its a ton of work so maybe we'll hit close to 100k if that comes in today.

Thats basically april to december, my sales really didnt start coming online until then, jan-march were completely dead for me so heres hoping next year is even better just based off jan-march being busy.

plan for next year is:

get website going and start pushing people to that
keep updating etsy catalogue, currently have 800ish minis and terrain on there, probably have 2000 in my backlog to add
hire help
research and start doing shows in my area/hamilton/toronto
expand into a bigger workplace
try and grow relationships with a bunch of the local game stores, currently doing business with one, and he's tried to invest in my business but i wasnt interested in going 50/50 with someone and there's no reason to be tied to that.

aiming for 200k next year, it'll be a journey thats for sure.

edit: my current setup is - 6 mono X2s, 1 mono X, 8 p1ps, 2 ender 3 neos, im burning through like 2kg of resin a day, and probably 3+kg of filament a day

if the A1s are good ill probably swap over to those as a workhorse

queeb fucked around with this message at 16:47 on Dec 31, 2023

w00tmonger
Mar 9, 2011

F-F-FRIDAY NIGHT MOTHERFUCKERS

queeb posted:


if the A1s are good ill probably swap over to those as a workhorse

Good job dude!

Out of curiosity, why the a1s? Just price point?

queeb
Jun 10, 2004

m



w00tmonger posted:

Good job dude!

Out of curiosity, why the a1s? Just price point?

yeah, im probably never going to be printing anything not PLA so that 500CAD price point is nice for that

I'll probably buy a P1S/AMS combo at some point just to have, just in case. theres a couple of non-gaming relates businesses around here I'm going to hit up and see if they could use any 3d printing done so having the option for petg and such would be good i guess

queeb
Jun 10, 2004

m



i've been removing backgrounds and watermarking, rearranging images and such you get from the creators as well to help stand out in search results, which ive noticed has helped, that and adding videos where possible, like artisan guild and cast n play do videos for all their releases.

the two on a white background are mine, they stand out from the sea of people posting the same images over and over

Roundboy
Oct 21, 2008

deimos posted:

Weird. I had to loosen my belts a few notches, but they are running well, albeit at self destructive tension (220Hz) to compensate for my old cheap Y rails (turns out the lubing hole on them is fake so the balls are all rusty). They're getting switched with aluminum plates but just because the printer is finally getting 48V 5160 driving LDO super power steppers.

Do you mind showing a picture of how you have your x/y tensioners ? Attaching the bolts through the front plate and into the actual idler has them sitting very far forward, which does not leave me a lot of travel distance. Are your bolt holes in the front plate bigger or are your bolts also threading a bit in that plastic? I feel i have some printing tolerance issues

deimos
Nov 30, 2006

Forget it man this bat is whack, it's got poobrain!

Roundboy posted:

Do you mind showing a picture of how you have your x/y tensioners ? Attaching the bolts through the front plate and into the actual idler has them sitting very far forward, which does not leave me a lot of travel distance. Are your bolt holes in the front plate bigger or are your bolts also threading a bit in that plastic? I feel i have some printing tolerance issues



That definitely doesn't look right. Maybe the screws are too short? At the very least the front plate should be flush.

Here are mine (reminder that they are very tight)



Here's one of the screws presented to the side:



Edit: mine are nearly bottomed out because I ran out of belt so I had to get creative with how I installed it.

deimos fucked around with this message at 19:02 on Dec 31, 2023

queeb
Jun 10, 2004

m



still trying to decide if i want to list everything individually or as groups as i've been doing. I see lots of stores just doing hundreds of listings of individual minis,



which has the perk of your poo poo showing up in search a ton i think

I've been doing like a full combined set in one listing with options for each on individually or discounts on 6 or 12 if its a 12 set etc, so mine look more like this:



i think im more partial to the way I do it, less clutter and i think you get that "oh i need the full set and i can get them for way cheaper if i buy em all now" impuse buy when people click in

queeb fucked around with this message at 19:23 on Dec 31, 2023

Warbird
May 23, 2012

America's Favorite Dumbass

queeb posted:

well here's my totals for my full first year on etsy:



i actually have a 500USD order coming in today and the guy that bought 6k worth of stuff off me last month just asked if i wanted to paint all the buildings he bought so im gonna quote him some high number because its a ton of work so maybe we'll hit close to 100k if that comes in today.

Thats basically april to december, my sales really didnt start coming online until then, jan-march were completely dead for me so heres hoping next year is even better just based off jan-march being busy.

plan for next year is:

get website going and start pushing people to that
keep updating etsy catalogue, currently have 800ish minis and terrain on there, probably have 2000 in my backlog to add
hire help
research and start doing shows in my area/hamilton/toronto
expand into a bigger workplace
try and grow relationships with a bunch of the local game stores, currently doing business with one, and he's tried to invest in my business but i wasnt interested in going 50/50 with someone and there's no reason to be tied to that.

aiming for 200k next year, it'll be a journey thats for sure.

edit: my current setup is - 6 mono X2s, 1 mono X, 8 p1ps, 2 ender 3 neos, im burning through like 2kg of resin a day, and probably 3+kg of filament a day

if the A1s are good ill probably swap over to those as a workhorse

Nice work. I wish I didn’t see this as the wife has been pushing me to try and do some business stuff with mine and I honestly don’t want to. That said that’s a good chunk of change so I could be convinced. How are your margins?

queeb
Jun 10, 2004

m



Warbird posted:

Nice work. I wish I didn’t see this as the wife has been pushing me to try and do some business stuff with mine and I honestly don’t want to. That said that’s a good chunk of change so I could be convinced. How are your margins?

i price my stuff by the hour plus materials, or like 6x material costs, whatever makes more sense, or find someone selling it cheaper and undercut them if it still makes me good coin, considering its all passive income for FDM stuff.

but yeah, margins are kinda stupid on stuff, like a mini costs 50 cents to print or less, just need to factor in alcohol and physical time, but i sell a mini pack of 22 minis that costs me 3 bucks in resin to print for 40 bucks, and its supportless minis so theres no actual work, just dumping them in the cleaner and then into a box basically. i've sold like 700 of those alone

mattfl
Aug 27, 2004

queeb posted:

well here's my totals for my full first year on etsy:



i actually have a 500USD order coming in today and the guy that bought 6k worth of stuff off me last month just asked if i wanted to paint all the buildings he bought so im gonna quote him some high number because its a ton of work so maybe we'll hit close to 100k if that comes in today.

Thats basically april to december, my sales really didnt start coming online until then, jan-march were completely dead for me so heres hoping next year is even better just based off jan-march being busy.

plan for next year is:

get website going and start pushing people to that
keep updating etsy catalogue, currently have 800ish minis and terrain on there, probably have 2000 in my backlog to add
hire help
research and start doing shows in my area/hamilton/toronto
expand into a bigger workplace
try and grow relationships with a bunch of the local game stores, currently doing business with one, and he's tried to invest in my business but i wasnt interested in going 50/50 with someone and there's no reason to be tied to that.

aiming for 200k next year, it'll be a journey thats for sure.

edit: my current setup is - 6 mono X2s, 1 mono X, 8 p1ps, 2 ender 3 neos, im burning through like 2kg of resin a day, and probably 3+kg of filament a day

if the A1s are good ill probably swap over to those as a workhorse

Dude that is amazing, congrats on that and living the dream!

Also, I used to live/went to highschool in that same area, if I was still up there I'd totally be down to partner up lol

The Eyes Have It
Feb 10, 2008

Third Eye Sees All
...snookums
Your work like removing backgrounds and other stuff to stand out is really thoughtful, that's awesome.

I know a local guy who does stuff with laser cutting, and he has one of those minds that's both creative art-wise as well as creative biz-wise (like, what will people buy and for how much) and it always impresses the hell out of me. I'm more of a nuts-and-bolts focused type.

queeb
Jun 10, 2004

m



The Eyes Have It posted:

Your work like removing backgrounds and other stuff to stand out is really thoughtful, that's awesome.

I know a local guy who does stuff with laser cutting, and he has one of those minds that's both creative art-wise as well as creative biz-wise (like, what will people buy and for how much) and it always impresses the hell out of me. I'm more of a nuts-and-bolts focused type.

Thanks! Ive found etsy is a numbers game bigtime, once i had like 400+ listings up and like 100+ sales poo poo just snowballed

im sitting on a $5k laser cutter and i've barely used it, i need to get that going too but seriously not enough hours in the day

i played around with MDF and doing condition markers



dungeon tiles (i actually sold a bunch of these when i had them up)



I even went as far as making official punch out sheets of them haha


and i made a building



definitely need to return to it at some point, but id drop MDF and go with a nicer wood and just charge more

queeb fucked around with this message at 21:10 on Dec 31, 2023

smax
Nov 9, 2009

smax posted:

Ugh.

I got a Revo 6 for my MK3S+ for Christmas. I installed it last night, flashed the firmware, calibrated the thermal model and PID, then noticed my filament sensor wasn't acting right. I think I must have nicked the wire enough to make the printer not recognize it reliably. It's odd though - if you look at the readout for the filament sensor it reads properly, but the printer refuses to use it for loading filament or anything.

Now I have a replacement sensor and cable to troubleshoot, I'm not looking forward to tearing apart the entire hotend/extruder assembly and Einsy box to troubleshoot this one. I guess I can run without a filament sensor for a while.

Update for the thread:

The replacement filament sensor and cable came today and I got some time to troubleshoot.

I tried the easier thing first- swapping the filament sensor. Turns out it fixed everything perfectly! No need to disassemble the extruder and run a new wire!

Looking at it closely, one of the tiny resistors fell off the IR sensor board, so it was totally a hardware failure, though I have no clue how that thing could have been jostled to pop off (I never touched the filament sensor itself at any point of the upgrade).

So- if your Prusa has the symptoms of a filament sensor that returns the correct sensor values but is somehow not recognized as a valid filament sensor, look at it very closely to see that all of the components are on the sensor board.

Warbird
May 23, 2012

America's Favorite Dumbass

BlackIronHeart posted:

Got any pics?

Ok, you can sort of see what I'm referring to in this timelapse:

https://i.imgur.com/b9Bqv9P.mp4

A bit of stringing from the long test line it always does (notably it doesn't actually extrude anything until about half way down the first pass; though that may be by design) and then you can see how the brim warps all to hell.

Though as I type this I did just glance over to see that a small set of inserts I was printing just all detached (though one stuck and the brim went flying) so maybe I just need to re-re-relevel the drat thing and get some paper out.


Edit: And now absolutely nothing is attaching on the new filament I just put in. Huh. I wonder if I put the z offset too close to the bed.

Warbird fucked around with this message at 03:07 on Jan 1, 2024

smax
Nov 9, 2009

Anyone want a set of assorted E3D V6 nozzles? I just listed some in SA Mart, most are unused. Also includes a couple silicone socks.

https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=4050907

Roundboy
Oct 21, 2008
Thanks all for the advice on my idlers, they seem to work better now and I mysteriously found an extra 1/2" of belt....

But I broke tap trying to tighten the belts a tad more, so reprint and go. Thinking of swapping to 4 proper magnets as well, and troubleshoot why I seem to have not enough up movement to trigger.

Also I completely redid my electrical, better organized but still messy until I add some cable management, but not sure what will hold up in the electrical bay

I was about to give up and undo all my thermistor slicing and see what was giving me a bad signal, I til I realized I got the same value with it without it plugged in, which made me realize I was using a different pin vs my original. Saved myself a LOT of hassle there

All in all with some minor work I can get the motion system working and figure out some prints to make attaching the side panels and doors not so much of a hassle

Stupid_Sexy_Flander
Mar 14, 2007

Is a man not entitled to the haw of his maw?
Grimey Drawer
Hey just throwing a trip report out there but you guys know how I was bitching about the creality app sucking balls and not doing phone slicing even though that was kinda the whole selling point besides fast printing for the k1 max?

Got the official software installed on my laptop and no worries my friends, the official software is a pile of poo poo too. It slices, but half the menus are hidden in weird spots and apparently if you breathe wrong during the slicing screen it'll lock up and crash the program.

THAT BEING SAID, the printer does print well. The software is complete rear end, but the printer itself is pretty great. Currently printing a Dr Doom mask. If it doesn't poo poo itself I'll have the pics of it ready around 4 tomorrow.

Javid
Oct 21, 2004

:jpmf:
I have resorted to some degenerate measures



having the carcass tied on is, at least, slightly better than nothing so I can keep printing while waiting on Amazon to deliver a new batch of silicone socks

Roundboy
Oct 21, 2008
Has creality addressed the initial hardware issues with the K1 max? Bad extruder/heater and the like?

If it's starting to be a reliable printer in hardware, and it continues to plummet in price, that just might be a viable alternative as a printer

Unless I end up with a 600*600 voron

w00tmonger
Mar 9, 2011

F-F-FRIDAY NIGHT MOTHERFUCKERS

anyone have recommendations for sealing/strengthening a print to make it airtight?

I'm working on a cyclone separator for a new dust collector, and want to do due diligence to make sure its strong enough. There's a bit of wall thinness in parts of the design, and I see a spot in my print with some layer separation I want to handle as well.I know there are epoxys out there, but I'm not sure if that's overboard and Id love to keep costs down if I can.

going off of this design, printing in PETG
https://www.printables.com/model/470277-version-3-4100mm-cyclone-dust-separator

e: layer seperation on the 1 piece I was worried about is reaally bad. Reprinting that part instead of trying to fix it

w00tmonger fucked around with this message at 16:54 on Jan 2, 2024

Stupid_Sexy_Flander
Mar 14, 2007

Is a man not entitled to the haw of his maw?
Grimey Drawer


Coming along pretty well.

hark
May 10, 2023

I'm sleep

Stupid_Sexy_Flander posted:



Coming along pretty well.

What is this? It looks cool as hell

Stupid_Sexy_Flander
Mar 14, 2007

Is a man not entitled to the haw of his maw?
Grimey Drawer
That's about 47% of a Dr Doom faceplate in elegoo's silk gold.

mrbass21
Feb 1, 2009
New Bambu P series firmware released today with the noise reduction.

Reminder that you have to run calibration in the printer after the firmware upgrade for it to work.

Catatron Prime
Aug 23, 2010

IT ME



Toilet Rascal

mrbass21 posted:

New Bambu P series firmware released today with the noise reduction.

Reminder that you have to run calibration in the printer after the firmware upgrade for it to work.

Thanks! I'll have to get that installed

I was starting to run into more regular retraction failure issues with the AMS on the P1S, but I printed and installed a few guides for the tubing and the issue went away entirely.

For anyone else having retraction failure problems, here's the three things I put on that were really easy and probably highest impact:

https://makerworld.com/en/models/53037#profileId-55161

https://makerworld.com/en/models/101046#profileId-107864

https://makerworld.com/en/models/58543#profileId-60340

The other "fix" was a bit more of a pain in the butt to install since you have to take apart the AMS and there's some short connector cables to the back. I doubt it honestly accomplishes all that much, but since I put everything on at once I can't say for sure whether it helped:

https://makerworld.com/en/models/52297#profileId-54062


I suspect the overall retraction failure is an issue with the AMS buffer in the back, because releasing that and pulling the filament back fixed it every time prior to installing the fixes. Seems like it's a common problem with an easy fix that I'm surprised hasn't been addressed by Bambu already, or maybe with a firmware tweak.

Not like it was a complicated fix or troubleshoot, but hopefully this helps someone!

Taman
May 21, 2003

My mama said that I'm not living right
I'm actually shocked how much difference it made on the motor noise of my P1P. Its tolerable to sit next to at my desk.

mrbass21
Feb 1, 2009

Taman posted:

I'm actually shocked how much difference it made on the motor noise of my P1P. Its tolerable to sit next to at my desk.

I have my printer upstairs. I could hear it running before. I can see it going full speed on the camera, but I can't hear it.

Sagebrush
Feb 26, 2012

w00tmonger posted:

anyone have recommendations for sealing/strengthening a print to make it airtight?

I know there are epoxys out there, but I'm not sure if that's overboard and Id love to keep costs down if I can.

Nah, brushable epoxy is going to be your best option as long as it works for your dimensions (it will make the walls thicker and not in an entirely predictable way) and budget.

A cheaper option to try first might be watered-down yellow carpenter's glue. It won't be as durable as epoxy, but it's still pretty hard when cured, and it forms an impervious layer.

A quality automotive clear coat would probably also work, but that's going to be around the same price as epoxy (some kinds literally are epoxies).

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

hark
May 10, 2023

I'm sleep

mrbass21 posted:

New Bambu P series firmware released today with the noise reduction.

Reminder that you have to run calibration in the printer after the firmware upgrade for it to work.

My P1S should be arriving on Thursday or Friday, so should I try to update it and then calibrate on first use? This is my first bambu device

  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
  • Post
  • Reply