|
deimos posted:I am not sure but there are two things I can think of: Arachne was developed by Ultimaker for Cura. It's been in there since 2021.
|
#
?
Jan 9, 2024 15:24
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 28, 2024 06:05 |
|
|
Acid Reflux posted:Arachne was developed by Ultimaker for Cura. It's been in there since 2021. poo poo, I forgot "maybe" in that statement, sorry. Will edit, but I should have remembered that fact.
|
|
#
?
Jan 9, 2024 16:55
|
|
|
I’ve been printed some of the Hex3D knitted Pokémon for the kids and implemented these gcode settings on my bambu to reduce waste: https://makerworld.com/en/models/91241 They work so well. Print time reduced by ~30% on models with numerous color changes and waste is less than half what it was before. With purging into infill or a purge model, there’s almost no poop coming out of my printer. Hopefully bambu will incorporate the retraction settings into bambu studio by default in the future.
|
|
#
?
Jan 9, 2024 17:30
|
|
|
Javid posted:I'm curious, what dimension-critical thing are you making in FDM? It's a clip to replace a broken one on one of those "slide out of a cabinet" garbage can deals. By that nature it has two pretty critical parts in terms of tolerances: The hook portion that holds onto a vertical bar for stability as part of a crossbar, and the bore hole that the actual crossbar sits in. Weirdly enough the hook portion has been pretty rock solid once I sorted out how to CAD a bit better. The bore hole has been the problem child, but I was able to fix it by kicking down the wall layers to the default 3. Per my calipers a spec of a hole with a diameter of 6mm kicks out at 5.56mm diameter at the default 3. So a half mm wasn't helping; I'll have to reprint at 4 walls to see how much variance I'm looking at there. To your point it may just be a matter of getting more familiar with my printer's resolution and so on and accounting for it in the print designs. This will likely be as precise a print as I need to make for a while since it's a brown field retrofit affair. While I hate that Onshape is browser based it does make sharing pretty easy. Anyone so inclined can go take a gander here: https://cad.onshape.com/documents/b8c6e404244bb6a8b22120be/w/a0a903f87eef89127b17ffec/e/af46d5aee1bff988b0dc0a85 No, I do not fully understand why I can round some edges and not others. It's on the list to sort out.
|
|
#
?
Jan 9, 2024 17:31
|
|
|
I can think of a few options, between them: - drill the hole - add compliance to the hole: https://youtu.be/Bd7Yyn61XWQ That being said, 0.5mm is waaay off. deimos fucked around with this message at 17:58 on Jan 9, 2024 |
|
#
?
Jan 9, 2024 17:53
|
|
|
deimos posted:poo poo, I forgot "maybe" in that statement, sorry. Will edit, but I should have remembered that fact.
|
|
#
?
Jan 9, 2024 18:01
|
|
|
Acid Reflux posted:And I'm posting like an unnecessary grump yet again, I'm the one who should be apologizing. Been sick going on two weeks now and letting it get the best of me. I'm going to go temporarily cut off my hands until I'm back to at least as normal as I ever am. I'm sure the acid reflux isn't helping things, either.
|
|
#
?
Jan 9, 2024 18:09
|
|
|
deimos posted:I can think of a few options, between them: Oh this would have been nice to have seen this a few days ago, oh well. Thanks for sharing, I need to go find some content creators focusing on practical printing stuff and this seems like a good place to start.
|
|
#
?
Jan 9, 2024 18:17
|
|
|
Saltpowered posted:https://makerworld.com/en/models/91241 Been using this the last couple days and it’s definitely a big reduction in purge waste. I was led to it through a video on YT. For those interested: this adds a 20mm retraction prior to cutting the old filament on every filament change. What this does is reduce the filament left in the hotend that has to be purged out. With no other calibration I dropped my flushing volume down to .5 and my color changes are as clean as ever. I really should see if I can optimize further. People have expressed concerns about this increasing likelihood of clogging as you are pulling some melted filament out of the melt zone but I haven’t seen it in 40+ hours of AMS printing.
|
|
#
?
Jan 9, 2024 18:19
|
|
|
Bodanarko posted:People have expressed concerns about this increasing likelihood of clogging as you are pulling some melted filament out of the melt zone but I haven’t seen it in 40+ hours of AMS printing. From a cursory reading, I seriously doubt it, it would mean that the filament is melted in the cold zone of the hotend, you have bigger problems than clogging the AMS if that's the case. The only issue could be that you're stretching the filament a tiny bit, but that gets solved when it gets purged back out next time it's used. Acid Reflux posted:And I'm posting like an unnecessary grump yet again, I'm the one who should be apologizing. Been sick going on two weeks now and letting it get the best of me. I'm going to go temporarily cut off my hands until I'm back to at least as normal as I ever am.
|
|
#
?
Jan 9, 2024 18:33
|
|
|
Acid Reflux posted:OK Snackmar, now I'm 100% on board with you as far as the riser thing goes. When I said there were at least a couple of dozen on Makerworld I was off by a lot. Haha, yeah it's kind of shocking how many there are! I'm kind of liking this low-profile one just because of how much vertical clearance I have in my setup: https://makerworld.com/en/models/64902#profileId-68560 But! I did get another response from support when I asked if they would tell me which model was being used in their photo (even if it wasn't officially recommended) and got a surprise: Bambu Support posted:At this time, I do not have the info.
|
|
#
?
Jan 9, 2024 19:47
|
|
|
Skink number 9 didn't print right (I bought some generic rainbow filament). What happened here? Did it just come off the bed late in the print? If so, how do I improve bed adhesion? I have a textured PEI plate at 55 degrees. Higher? Lower? e: Also, should I have bought the smooth plate instead? gvibes fucked around with this message at 01:02 on Jan 10, 2024 |
|
#
?
Jan 10, 2024 00:53
|
|
|
Prusaslicer has it at 60 on the bed for generic PLA, but if the rest stuck it could be a random not-clean spot?
|
|
#
?
Jan 10, 2024 00:59
|
|
|
biracial bear for uncut posted:Prusaslicer has it at 60 on the bed for generic PLA, but if the rest stuck it could be a random not-clean spot? 
|
|
#
?
Jan 10, 2024 05:50
|
|
|
gvibes posted:Skink number 9 didn't print right (I bought some generic rainbow filament). you got a deluxe hairstyle skink
|
|
#
?
Jan 10, 2024 07:37
|
|
|
https://blog.bambulab.com/rooted-the-good-the-bad-and-freedom-of-choice/ Bambu have announced they're going to work with the X-Plus team and provide an official firmware that'll allow flashing with a third-party firmware. Some restrictions on support and so on, and they'll know which serials have been permitted to be jail broken.
|
|
#
?
Jan 10, 2024 12:31
|
|
|
man I'm stuck on what to do with listing minis on etsy. Pretty much all the real huge mini seller stores list stuff individually, so say artisan guild releases 12 archers. They'll split them all up, do 12 listings, and each one is its own ~9 buck item. Looks clean. I take those 12, put them in one listing, with a picture of 6 at once, with 12 variations, one for each model, and then a 6 and 12 pack. I feel listing like that its harder to see the individual model you're buying, and im sure lots of people skip over because they want an elf archer, see my picture that has 6 small elf archers in it that are hard to see detail, then see the next pic that just has one dope looking elf archer nice and big, and click that one. aaa what to do
|
|
#
?
Jan 10, 2024 17:30
|
|
|
queeb posted:man I'm stuck on what to do with listing minis on etsy. Pretty much all the real huge mini seller stores list stuff individually, so say artisan guild releases 12 archers. They'll split them all up, do 12 listings, and each one is its own ~9 buck item. Looks clean. I take those 12, put them in one listing, with a picture of 6 at once, with 12 variations, one for each model, and then a 6 and 12 pack. it might take some more work, but you could probably have a nice hero shot closeup and then an inset with the models in a 6- or 12-pack
|
|
#
?
Jan 10, 2024 17:41
|
|
|
The Chairman posted:it might take some more work, but you could probably have a nice hero shot closeup and then an inset with the models in a 6- or 12-pack yeah, im considering that or breaking the 6/12 pack into its own thing, and doing both, 12 individual, then a separate discount listing for buying bulk. i just like how clean this looks in one of the other etsy stores, shows off the minis way better: 
|
|
#
?
Jan 10, 2024 17:56
|
|
|
$9! 
|
|
#
?
Jan 10, 2024 18:01
|
|
|
withak posted:$9! dude has 33,000 sales at that price point lol edit: thats canadian
|
|
#
?
Jan 10, 2024 18:04
|
|
|
withak posted:$9! That's not too off from what I sell for a single dude. I tend to hover around $10 CAD The real thing that drives me insane is the forever sales people run to goon the algorithm into prioritizing their shop
|
|
#
?
Jan 10, 2024 18:08
|
|
|
and yeah i think you can run into having TOO low a price on etsy, people start to question if you're cheaping out. unless its FDM stuff, shits cutthroat
|
|
#
?
Jan 10, 2024 18:09
|
|
|
snail posted:https://blog.bambulab.com/rooted-the-good-the-bad-and-freedom-of-choice/ To me that sounds like a good approach. This bit sounds interesting as well, depending on what those APIs allow: quote:makes sense before we launch APIs and SDKs for third-party developers, which were already on our roadmap. We will have official support for third-party apps or plugins down the road
|
|
#
?
Jan 10, 2024 18:34
|
|
|
wow, even as a Prusa guy, that's a really well thought out and measured response from them. I'm very eager to see where they go from here, because that really takes a lot of wind out of a lot of arguments against their ecosystem.
|
|
#
?
Jan 10, 2024 18:39
|
|
|
I think the only thing that’s a little weird about it is they seemed to imply that you must chose at this new firmware whether to stay bambu or go open source. So once you upgrade to any firmware beyond that, never can you go open source. I don’t really have a big problem with it, but assuming that’s correct, I think anyone at any time should be able to decide to switch. Maybe my warranty expires and I want to go open source then.
|
|
#
?
Jan 10, 2024 18:44
|
|
|
The x1plus firmware is even goon-made
|
|
#
?
Jan 10, 2024 18:46
|
|
|
Yeah that doesn't look like Bambu is aiming for an ability to load a different firmware in general going forward. This is a one off, looks like.
|
|
#
?
Jan 10, 2024 18:47
|
|
|
No, to me it says that even from later Bambu firmware you can switch to ”R” which is similar to 1.07.00. And in future you may also be able to jump back to newer Bambu firmware from ”R”, but once the ”R” is installed the first time you’ve forfeited the right to warranty and official support. From the jailbroken ”1.07.00 R” you can then upgrade any newer jailbroken firmware, like the 1.07.01 based X1plus. DoLittle fucked around with this message at 18:58 on Jan 10, 2024 |
|
#
?
Jan 10, 2024 18:54
|
|
|
DoLittle posted:No, to me it says that even from later Bambu firmware you can switch to ”R” which is similar to 1.07.00. I think it’s not clear at best. This would require bambu to allow you to downgrade your printer at any time, which is the entire reason they don’t want to just allow it. They want to fix security holes. If you continue with bambu and let’s say install some future 3.1.1 firmware. You’ll need to downgrade to 1.1.7, and then go open source. Maybe it will work that way, but if they aren’t supporting any development of you coming back from a third party firmware, I find it dubious they would support letting you go to it. Managing that software to downgrade safely after future hardware and software revisions would be cumbersome.
|
|
#
?
Jan 10, 2024 19:16
|
|
|
Couldn't they just allow the printer to flash any firmware and store a version changelog somewhere in the onboard system memory that the bootloader has access to as a way to track it on the machine itself? Some sort of non-volatile storage that just stores date and firmware version data? I know that could still be spoofed if someone is dedicated enough but most people aren't willing to go to that  maybe?I want to say DaVinci printers did something like that but can't remember specifics.
|
|
#
?
Jan 10, 2024 19:37
|
|
|
biracial bear for uncut posted:Couldn't they just allow the printer to flash any firmware and store a version changelog somewhere in the onboard system memory that the bootloader has access to as a way to track it on the machine itself? If I were a developer on their team, I wouldn’t allow it. It’s allowing people to root the device and they’ve explicitly said in new firmware they do not want to allow that. Security is hard enough to do where there are no holes. Forget about very small controlled holes.
|
|
#
?
Jan 10, 2024 19:39
|
|
|
Is there some basic intro as to what all is involved in resin printing? I read up a bit and it seems pretty involved, what with ventilation, washes, cures, handling requirements, etc.
|
|
#
?
Jan 10, 2024 19:49
|
|
|
had a painter friend paint up some stuff too so i can attach it to everything as quality examples.  
|
|
#
?
Jan 10, 2024 22:46
|
|
|
Scale model of The Rocinante (also has a generic MCRN Corvette and other ships, and a TON of other SciFi ships) you say? Don't mind if I do! https://www.printables.com/model/136343-rocinante-from-expanse
|
|
#
?
Jan 10, 2024 23:05
|
|
|
The whole thing is just pressed together with no non-printed pieces? Madness
|
|
#
?
Jan 10, 2024 23:13
|
|
|
I just made his Enterprise D for a coworker a couple of weeks ago, was pretty happy with how it came out (as was the recipient!):
|
|
#
?
Jan 10, 2024 23:49
|
|
|
finally hit enough points on Makerworld to get that free $40 gift certificate... gonna be a 3D printing millionaire at this rate
|
|
#
?
Jan 10, 2024 23:53
|
|
|
      Top 2 are what I sent to my P1S from handy. Bottom 4 are results of my second (and better) attempt, printing at 50% speed. I tried it at 100% the first time and got similar issues, only they were slightly more pronounced. I hoped slowing the speed would help, but it only did a little bit. Any ideas on what I can do to remedy this? Using polymaker PLA currently. Do I need to use a slicer+ computer to fix problems like these? I haven't sliced anything yet that I've sent to this printer, only sent things directly from handy to the printer. This aside, I still really love this printer.
|
|
#
?
Jan 11, 2024 00:03
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 28, 2024 06:05 |
|
|
gvibes posted:Is there some basic intro as to what all is involved in resin printing? I read up a bit and it seems pretty involved, what with ventilation, washes, cures, handling requirements, etc. As someone that recently started this: Don't. The kinds of things I want to print come out just as well (if more slowly) on my FDM machines and I don't have to PPE up to play with them. Once I use up the rest of my sample resin I'm going to pack the printer up, set the wash tank in the sun and let the alcohol evaporate, and put the whole mess away in the shed once it's safe to do so. The FEP/PFA film hassle alone puts me off. Printed three things and the 4th thing stuck to the film and can't be removed without possibly ripping the film, so the film needs replacing and I just don't want to deal with the hassle at this point. My Prusas have spoiled me.
|
|
#
?
Jan 11, 2024 01:22
|
|