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Qwijib0 posted:Comically was looking at an antique radio forum yesterday and ran across this recommendation for bakelite radios: I restore old radios, but I typically leave cabinets alone. I would also recommend hitting up antique radio forums for advice on polishing bakelite. Those old farts really know their stuff. kid sinister fucked around with this message at 06:24 on Jan 6, 2024 |
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Jan 6, 2024 06:20
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Any of you old radio geeks know where I can get a GE JK-126? E: one of these MFs: https://www.radiomuseum.org/r/canadian_g_jk_126jk12.html
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Jan 6, 2024 17:58
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Oh, those old art deco floor radios are absolutely gorgeous.
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Jan 6, 2024 18:39
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I have something similar in my attic  Going to repair the chips & missing trim on the case. It does work, but remains a fire hazard until I clean it out & replace the cord. Need to find someone who can laser-cut that latticework for me. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 23:36 on Jan 6, 2024 |
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Jan 6, 2024 22:29
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PainterofCrap posted:I have something similar in my attic It needs more than a cord. It almost certainly needs its capacitors changed. Speaking of cords, if you care, reproduction vintage cords and plugs are available. kid sinister fucked around with this message at 03:21 on Jan 7, 2024 |
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Jan 7, 2024 01:06
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kid sinister posted:Oh, those old art deco floor radios are absolutely gorgeous. gently caress yeah. I know we've got the amateur radio thread but thats more ham operators and such. Is there an Olde Tymey radio thread on the forums? Even with all the weirdos here it seems like a thread that would have like 3 people posting in it. (I don't know enough to start one if there ain't)
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Jan 7, 2024 03:42
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I've got a 50s capehart that I sourced a complete set of new tubes for, and they sit in the box, in the rear of the cabinet where they have been for the last decade   
Qwijib0 fucked around with this message at 04:20 on Jan 7, 2024 |
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Jan 7, 2024 04:18
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wesleywillis posted:gently caress yeah. ...ish https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3021252
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Jan 7, 2024 04:23
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Say you've got an electrical box that isn't flush with the wall, and the drywall was cut back a bit too far for the tabs on the outlet to sit against. Instead of having an outlet somewhat floating/having play, is it kosher to use nylon spacers on the screws to give it something to tighten against?
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Jan 7, 2024 07:15
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Arrath posted:Say you've got an electrical box that isn't flush with the wall, and the drywall was cut back a bit too far for the tabs on the outlet to sit against. Instead of having an outlet somewhat floating/having play, is it kosher to use nylon spacers on the screws to give it something to tighten against? These? Yes - that's what they're for unless I misunderstand what's wrong. https://www.lowes.com/pd/Gardner-Bender-24-Pack-0-75-in-W-x-4-in-L-Yellow-Plastic-Wall-Plate-Spacer/4573784
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Jan 7, 2024 08:01
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H110Hawk posted:These? Yes - that's what they're for unless I misunderstand what's wrong. I was thinking of these: https://www.lowes.com/search?searchTerm=3/8%20nylon%20spacer I'll see about getting some of those ones you linked, thanks!
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Jan 7, 2024 08:12
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Qwijib0 posted:Comically was looking at an antique radio forum yesterday and ran across this recommendation for bakelite radios: Thanks to this post I realized that refinishing bakelite is actually not a niche problem. A quick World Wide Web search brought up a lot of advice - a lot of it, of course, contradicting each other - because yeah there's all sorts of stuff made out of bakelite that people want to restore. Light switches being one example I'd never have thought of despite having lived with bakelite electrical fittings for years. Is this the time to buy a Dremel or whatever Dremel-like Lidl has on offer? e: Ah gently caress I also just remembered I have my grandaunt's old radio sitting somewhere??? that I need to restore. Nothing wrong with the exterior last time I saw it, which is good because it's wood veneer, with that fancy fabric in front of the speaker that you'll never find a replacement for. (Cue someone linking me up with some shop selling the fabric for 1½€/m.) ee: Had a quick look around the apartment. How the heck have I lost a thing that's literally the size of a CRT television set 
3D Megadoodoo fucked around with this message at 12:31 on Jan 7, 2024 |
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Jan 7, 2024 12:28
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H110Hawk posted:These? Yes - that's what they're for unless I misunderstand what's wrong. I didn't know they made a product just for this. I bought a pack of 8-32 machine screws to use the nuts as spacers.
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Jan 7, 2024 14:48
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Dishwasher question: I have one of the pretty common basic-rear end Frigidaire/Electrolux dishwashers with the rolling rack that you pull out to rest on the open door to load/unload. the hinges on said door are either wearing or pulling out in such a fashion that when the door is open it now rests at a beyond-180 degree angle and the rack struggles to clear the lil bump and then is on a marked downward slope AWAY from the dishwasher. Is there a way to fix this by tightening something somewhere or is it literally physical deterioration of the metal involved? it's really bugging me
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Jan 7, 2024 17:08
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Gunshow Poophole posted:Dishwasher question: Go to https://www.appliancepartspros.com/ or similar. Put in the actual model number of your dishwasher (should be on the door or in the door jamb area) and search for hinge. You should see a picture of the hinges as well as a line drawing of the assembly around them. This should give you a hint about whether the "hinge" is an assembly that will take care of this or not. If you can't tell post the specifics here and someone can help.
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Jan 7, 2024 19:13
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https://www.appliancepartspros.com/frigidaire-hinge-assembly-405539931-ap6783363.html#qa1 is the hinge for my dishwasher, which is model #FPID2498SF2A considering they're $130 apiece it looks like something that might be beyond my ability to modify/service as it's pretty complex?
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Jan 7, 2024 20:15
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That appears to be a pair by googling that first part number. Might also be gotten under $100. You can always ask them. If you post some pictures we might be able to help, or it might be shot. Or you might be x/y'ing the problem and whatever is supposed to bump stop the hinge is what is broken.
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Jan 7, 2024 20:23
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Gunshow Poophole posted:https://www.appliancepartspros.com/frigidaire-hinge-assembly-405539931-ap6783363.html#qa1 It's a single part for both sides: https://www.partstown.com/frigidaire/fri405539931 Obviously I can't speak to your abilities, but this looks like some pretty straight forward disassembly and reassembly. H110Hawk posted:That appears to be a pair by googling that first part number. Might also be gotten under $100. You can always ask them. If you post some pictures we might be able to help, or it might be shot. Or you might be x/y'ing the problem and whatever is supposed to bump stop the hinge is what is broken. This is the style that I've come across before where the door tension springs are part of the hinge and that also serves as the bump stop/downward extent, so it looks like this is the correct replacement part for the symptom.
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Jan 7, 2024 20:27
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Speaking of dishwashers is there a place that makes third party replacement racks? I have a Bosch, and all the ones I found are over $300.
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Jan 7, 2024 20:55
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Qwijib0 posted:I've got a 50s capehart that I sourced a complete set of new tubes for, and they sit in the box, in the rear of the cabinet where they have been for the last decade It probably isn't the tubes. Tubes are actually one of the more reliable components in these radios. About the only time a tube goes bad is if a capacitor shorts and overdrives the rectifier tube. Fake edit: it could also be as simple as a fuse.
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Jan 7, 2024 21:41
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kid sinister posted:It probably isn't the tubes. Tubes are actually one of the more reliable components in these radios. About the only time a tube goes bad is if a capacitor shorts and overdrives the rectifier tube. Things of that age seem to have large hand wound multi-caps that are simply dried out by now. Here's one from mine:  I replaced it with thee separate caps artfully zip tied together. 
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Jan 7, 2024 21:55
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Motronic posted:It's a single part for both sides: https://www.partstown.com/frigidaire/fri405539931 Cool thanks to both of you! I'll check it out
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Jan 7, 2024 21:58
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Motronic posted:Things of that age seem to have large hand wound multi-caps that are simply dried out by now. Here's one from mine: It's always the capacitors. Electrolytic caps are a scourge upon humanity. It's even a problem in more recent stuff. I was watching a video on YouTube yesterday about how the first model of Sega CD is now known to have leaky caps that erode the traces on the motherboard. They're only 30 years old now. Capacitors going bad was a huge problem for motherboards only 20 years ago. Replace them with new electrolytic caps. In addition to electrolytic caps, on these old radios you can also have wax covered paper capacitors which also go bad. Replace those ones with film caps.
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Jan 7, 2024 22:27
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Super-NintendoUser posted:Speaking of dishwashers is there a place that makes third party replacement racks? I have a Bosch, and all the ones I found are over $300.
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Jan 8, 2024 09:45
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I have a Samsung fridge (RF28R7201SR) info from tag is below. But the ice maker has been freezing up like once a month or so. Like it's not auto defrosting or something. Ice gets built up in it and it jams up. I melt it with a hair dryer and clean it out and it's good for another month or so. Any ideas on what could be causing it? 
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Jan 8, 2024 17:51
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Is there a spring loaded flap on the ice chute that normally stays shut and minimizes air exchange into the freezer? Said spring was broken on my fridge so the flap just dangled open and it let in all kinds of house air which was resulting in lots more ice buildup as well as a slow trickle of melt water.
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Jan 8, 2024 18:21
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I think I'm looking for something that doesn't exist, but I'm also not sure the terminology to look for. I have a closet at the end of the hallway that is exactly 36" wide, and the opening is not framed out at all. I'm trying to find a surface mount bifold door so I can use the full depth of the space to put in some wire shelves. I've found barn door hardware for bifold doors that do what I want, but the rail length has to exceed the door width, generally by at least an inch, which means for this to work, I'd have to use narrower doors and frame out the opening. I'm looking for a quick solution and really would rather avoid drywall work. I'm trying to avoid traditional top-mounted bifold doors, since it will eat up an inch or two of already minimal space, and will also complicate a floor transition in the previously unfinished closet. Does hardware like this exist? I'm basically looking for face-mounted bifold door hardware. There's a bedroom door to the right, so I need the doors to "collect" on the left side of the opening, for what it matters.
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Jan 8, 2024 18:35
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SuicidalSmurf posted:I think I'm looking for something that doesn't exist, but I'm also not sure the terminology to look for. I have a closet at the end of the hallway that is exactly 36" wide, and the opening is not framed out at all. I'm trying to find a surface mount bifold door so I can use the full depth of the space to put in some wire shelves. I've found barn door hardware for bifold doors that do what I want, but the rail length has to exceed the door width, generally by at least an inch, which means for this to work, I'd have to use narrower doors and frame out the opening. I'm looking for a quick solution and really would rather avoid drywall work. I'm trying to avoid traditional top-mounted bifold doors, since it will eat up an inch or two of already minimal space, and will also complicate a floor transition in the previously unfinished closet. Does hardware like this exist? I'm basically looking for face-mounted bifold door hardware. There's a bedroom door to the right, so I need the doors to "collect" on the left side of the opening, for what it matters. Would this work: https://www.homedepot.com/p/EVERMARK-Expressions-36-in-x-80-in-Unfinished-6-Panel-Solid-Core-Red-Oak-Interior-Bi-Fold-Door-454-094/207143081? It just fills the space and opens to the side. The hardware mounts in the ceiling and floor.
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Jan 8, 2024 18:52
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Can we get a picture? It will help visualize what you need that doesn't exist yet.
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Jan 8, 2024 18:58
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Deteriorata posted:Would this work: https://www.homedepot.com/p/EVERMARK-Expressions-36-in-x-80-in-Unfinished-6-Panel-Solid-Core-Red-Oak-Interior-Bi-Fold-Door-454-094/207143081? I'm sure that's what would be typical here, but I'm trying to avoid mounting 'inside' the closet, if that makes sense. Want to surface mount to maximize space, and have the door come out beyond the floor transition I'll have to add. Wasabi the J posted:Can we get a picture? It will help visualize what you need that doesn't exist yet. Added  This was the road I was going down, but everything that I've found like this needs to exceed the door opening by an inch or two either side. https://www.wayfair.com/home-improvement/pdp/att-top-mount-bi-fold-sliding-single-barn-door-hardware-atau1082.html
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Jan 8, 2024 19:10
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SuicidalSmurf posted:I'm sure that's what would be typical here, but I'm trying to avoid mounting 'inside' the closet, if that makes sense. Want to surface mount to maximize space, and have the door come out beyond the floor transition I'll have to add. Nail a 2x4 to the top of the opening and put the hardware under that. An alternative would be a curtain on a rod.
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Jan 8, 2024 19:14
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Arrath posted:Is there a spring loaded flap on the ice chute that normally stays shut and minimizes air exchange into the freezer? Hm, I can't find one, wonder if that might be the problem. Have to check out some diagrams, thanks for the idea at least!
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Jan 8, 2024 22:50
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devicenull posted:Water drains uphill right? There's definitely a valley where the two roof pitches meet. Update: Sealant was unsuccessful. Large rain storm is occurring. Rain has moved inside.  Roofers will be here Thursday.
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Jan 10, 2024 01:23
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Yeah can be hard to find where it's actually coming in, sometimes it takes me an attempt or two, rusted nails and nails not in tar strips are the things I've had luck with in my situation. Or ones that are popping up out of the wood.
Rakeris fucked around with this message at 04:38 on Jan 10, 2024 |
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Jan 10, 2024 03:15
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How do I attach my ~40 lb projector screen to my cement ceiling? It is also the floor of the unit above. Edit:, also, if in theory, I had a hole that a sleeve anchor pulled out of, was the hole too large? Would some sort of epoxy help? ante fucked around with this message at 07:47 on Jan 10, 2024 |
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Jan 10, 2024 07:36
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ante posted:How do I attach my ~40 lb projector screen to my cement ceiling? It is also the floor of the unit above. More details would help. Are you using a down rod projector mount? attaching a shelf tot he ceiling? are there particular aesthetic constraints you are working with? I have a projector mounted to my ceiling, and my choice was to essentially build a decent looking box, with openings for ventilation and the lens and mount that to my ceiling. If I was doing that in your case I would probably use sleeve anchors or tapcons to attach a wood panel to the ceiling and then work from there. ante posted:Edit:, also, if in theory, I had a hole that a sleeve anchor pulled out of, was the hole too large? Would some sort of epoxy help? Possibly too large or possible the sleeve did not deform enough. If you need to use the same opening then yes, there is epoxy that you could use to very permanently epoxy the anchor in place, or fill the hole, let it cure and re drill a smaller one.
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Jan 10, 2024 14:26
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Arrath posted:Say you've got an electrical box that isn't flush with the wall, and the drywall was cut back a bit too far for the tabs on the outlet to sit against. Instead of having an outlet somewhat floating/having play, is it kosher to use nylon spacers on the screws to give it something to tighten against? I use lengths of 1/2" PEX pipe and it works amazing. Stuff is sturdy as hell and is non conducting of course
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Jan 10, 2024 17:49
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Maybe a bigger post for a different thread. Today on my list I have diagnosing this heater.  I have gathered my cat to help but all she does is roll around so I thought I'd ask here.  It doesn't display anything on the thermostat LCD or generate heat. The manufacturer suggested swapping the thermostat for $82. I'd like to repair it instead, possibly understanding it so I could someday add an ESP32 into the circuitry to make these heaters "smart". I have another one. This is the thermostat.  The rear where the heater's spade connectors (4 of them) interface    And the PCB. Looks like the filthy POs may have spilled something bad on the big glob of solder there.    I went through with a multimeter and found all the components to be functional as far as I could tell, but one resistor gave me a 500megaΩ reading while its markings seem to be for 50kΩ. Unless I'm measuring wrong, is that the culprit and all I need to do is replace it? tuyop fucked around with this message at 18:37 on Jan 10, 2024 |
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Jan 10, 2024 18:31
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You can certainly try to replace a single resistor but imo if you value your time even a little bit, buy a 30 dollar thermostat at Lowe's and move on. Trying to fix modern PCB electronics is very often a fools errand.
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Jan 10, 2024 18:42
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emocrat posted:More details would help. Are you using a down rod projector mount? attaching a shelf tot he ceiling? are there particular aesthetic constraints you are working with? Specifically the projector screen. I think I have a convenient pipe to clamp on for the projector itself. It's about 85 inches from metal ring to metal ring. In the past, I've used drywall anchor hooks, on drywall ceilings
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Jan 10, 2024 19:58
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