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you got to think of some way to make him think it's his idea
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Jan 10, 2024 20:50
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100 HOGS AGREE posted:you got to think of some way to make him think it's his idea "All my smartest friends love getting beat up! Would really respect anyone who was brave enough to choose to do that....just saying..."
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Jan 10, 2024 21:21
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This looks like a good deal for the number of bathrooms. Almost TOO good. What's the catch?
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Jan 10, 2024 21:32
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That's a bug caused by the website using an unsigned 16-bit integer for the number of bathrooms. That house actually has -196 bathrooms. HTH!
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Jan 10, 2024 21:34
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smoobles posted:This looks like a good deal for the number of bathrooms. Almost TOO good. What's the catch? That's them just counting all of the places they found mouse poo poo.
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Jan 10, 2024 21:42
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I was going to say “cats pissed,” but YMMV
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Jan 10, 2024 23:10
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The tunneled shitters under the house.
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Jan 10, 2024 23:30
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My house was built in the late 60s and still has a couple of the original wooden windows in it. About 50% of the glazing has fallen off them and the rest is in pretty bad shape. Also, there are no metal glazing points holding the glass in. I'm planning on chipping out the rest of the glazing and adding some metal points. I don't have any glazing putty, but I do have plenty of DAP Dynaflex 230 caulk. If the metal points are holding the glass in place, is there any good reason I can't seal it with dynaflex instead of traditional glazing putty?
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Jan 11, 2024 00:51
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Progress: the septic experts will be bringing the county inspector by later this month for a visual demonstration of "This site is completely hosed".
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Jan 11, 2024 01:25
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I've used latex sealant in place of glaze before in a pinch. It can shrink more than glaze and I find it more difficult to get a good bead/bevel, but that last part might just be a skill issue on my end. Just don't use silicone, which (in my experience) is a goddamn pain in the rear end to remove without damaging the wood.
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Jan 11, 2024 01:26
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Skunkduster posted:My house was built in the late 60s and still has a couple of the original wooden windows in it. About 50% of the glazing has fallen off them and the rest is in pretty bad shape. Also, there are no metal glazing points holding the glass in. I'm planning on chipping out the rest of the glazing and adding some metal points. I don't have any glazing putty, but I do have plenty of DAP Dynaflex 230 caulk. If the metal points are holding the glass in place, is there any good reason I can't seal it with dynaflex instead of traditional glazing putty? You would be loving your future self or the next owner when it needs to be worked on next time.
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Jan 11, 2024 02:25
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Good points. It is a silicone sealant, but I figure by the time it comes to repair it again, I'll just replace the whole window. Thanks!
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Jan 11, 2024 03:04
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Skunkduster posted:My house was built in the late 60s and still has a couple of the original wooden windows in it. About 50% of the glazing has fallen off them and the rest is in pretty bad shape. Also, there are no metal glazing points holding the glass in. I'm planning on chipping out the rest of the glazing and adding some metal points. I don't have any glazing putty, but I do have plenty of DAP Dynaflex 230 caulk. If the metal points are holding the glass in place, is there any good reason I can't seal it with dynaflex instead of traditional glazing putty? My neighbor swore by using caulk. I say unless you can guarantee that you won't have to replace that glass, ever, then get DAP glazing putty and a 4" knife & do it right. You should paint it after it cures, which may take a week or so. All of the windows that were installed when my house was built in 1931 are still here and are restored to full function. edit: beaten like my hands after hours of prying silicone caulk out of a sash
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Jan 11, 2024 03:44
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BaseballPCHiker posted:I pulled all of the old building permits for my house and you are correct! The house, built in 1911, once had a steam boiler. Now these pipes just run standard radiators, and some of my water lines as well. If you insulate those pipes will that affect the basement temperature? Just thinking if the basement gets colder because of this, do you need to consider alternatives to keep it warmer so it doesn't get too cold and damp and cause issues with mold? I assume this is a basement anyway.
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Jan 11, 2024 05:17
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Skunkduster posted:My house was built in the late 60s and still has a couple of the original wooden windows in it. About 50% of the glazing has fallen off them and the rest is in pretty bad shape. Also, there are no metal glazing points holding the glass in. I'm planning on chipping out the rest of the glazing and adding some metal points. I don't have any glazing putty, but I do have plenty of DAP Dynaflex 230 caulk. If the metal points are holding the glass in place, is there any good reason I can't seal it with dynaflex instead of traditional glazing putty? You are making them harder to maintain in the future and the caulk may hold moisture against the wood in a way that glazing wouldn't.
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Jan 11, 2024 05:43
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Danhenge posted:making them harder future cock moisture wood glazing . heheheh
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Jan 11, 2024 11:08
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Bathroom fan brand recs? I think I remember hearing Broan is good, and I'm in the market for a new one. Edit: also, anything to look out for regarding a timed fan switch? Just wanna make sure that still works with my new fan. Johnny Truant fucked around with this message at 15:29 on Jan 11, 2024 |
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Jan 11, 2024 15:25
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His Divine Shadow posted:If you insulate those pipes will that affect the basement temperature? Just thinking if the basement gets colder because of this, do you need to consider alternatives to keep it warmer so it doesn't get too cold and damp and cause issues with mold? I assume this is a basement anyway. It might slightly but not enough to worry about. I'll have to put a thermometer down there and measure before and after. My guess is that it will only be a 1-2F difference. Im lucky in that I have poured 12 inch thick concrete foundation walls so that definitely helps a lot as well. The whole idea according to the guy who came out and did my home energy audit last year, (who was awesome, I seriously lucked out and feel like I got the best guy on earth, he's super into his job, ridiculously detailed and genuinely passionate about this, gave me a ton of advice and time), is that you want to retain as much heat as you can going into your radiators and not bleeding out the pipes. Even the cold water pipes can be insulated with the same idea, youre keeping the return water a bit warmer and/or warming it up on its way in. This is one of the last things i'm doing as part of the project, WAY down the list on bang to buck ratio.
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Jan 11, 2024 15:28
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For anybody who has used a wet tile saw: how much of a mess do they make? Going to be doing a kitchen backsplash soon and it is winter in Michigan. Is this a "just wear a smock and you'll be fine" situation, a "put up some plastic sheeting in the basement to contain the spray" situation, or a "wait for spring, do it outdoors" job?
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Jan 11, 2024 17:30
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Sirotan posted:For anybody who has used a wet tile saw: how much of a mess do they make? Going to be doing a kitchen backsplash soon and it is winter in Michigan. Is this a "just wear a smock and you'll be fine" situation, a "put up some plastic sheeting in the basement to contain the spray" situation, or a "wait for spring, do it outdoors" job? Not very much at all, I got some on my hands or whatever but it's not throwing it around.
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Jan 11, 2024 17:47
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VelociBacon posted:Not very much at all, I got some on my hands or whatever but it's not throwing it around. Perfect. My mom is giving me her saw she bought years ago to do one single job, and was going on and on about how I needed to make sure to buy a waterproof smock so I was envisioning water just going everywhere.
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Jan 11, 2024 18:10
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Johnny Truant posted:Bathroom fan brand recs? Panasonic is my go to. I put one in and immediately put a second one it because it was so smooth and quiet. Sirotan posted:For anybody who has used a wet tile saw: how much of a mess do they make? Going to be doing a kitchen backsplash soon and it is winter in Michigan. Is this a "just wear a smock and you'll be fine" situation, a "put up some plastic sheeting in the basement to contain the spray" situation, or a "wait for spring, do it outdoors" job? Depends on the saw design I'd say, the blade does throw a rooster tail of water off the back. The mudflap helps. I did it in the garage and had to sweep up a lot of dried clay and wipe down some stuff. Plus you have wet dripping tiles to deal with, so get some towels ready. The scrap tile ended up making more of a mess because I was just leaning it up wet to dry if it was big enough to use, so there was some puddles.
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Jan 11, 2024 18:18
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StormDrain posted:Panasonic is my go to. I put one in and immediately put a second one it because it was so smooth and quiet. This. Very happy with the one I put into the downstairs bathroom. The mounting solution is really good.
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Jan 11, 2024 18:28
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Johnny Truant posted:Bathroom fan brand recs? Panasonic, just be aware there are different styles. I had the one that wanted constant power, and then used DC to speed up and slow down depending if you were in the room pooping or not also it knew the airflow, so would speed up if you had a crappy corrugated pipe and be noisey. I just installed a through wall fan, and its just a simple on/off control (so your timer will work fine with it). When i replaced one of my old builder grade fans in the powder room, i had to swap the base too - which meant cutting the drywall since it was on the lower floor. Depending on your work you want to do, you might just be trying to find a new one of what you have, and swap the guts.
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Jan 12, 2024 00:04
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We're building a new home and our termite home evaluator came out and said that the cement blocks behind the vents would block airflow in the crawl space of the house. The blocks are turned on their side to have the solid portion on top and bottom and the hollow portion in line with the vent. The vents are on the top layer of the block foundation. Should this have been done differently? 
SlayVus fucked around with this message at 00:25 on Jan 12, 2024 |
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Jan 12, 2024 00:14
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Check your local regulations. For most areas, the internet says... The minimum net area of ventilation openings shall be not less than 1 square foot for each 150 square feet of under-floor area and companies selling vents say... Generally, Automatic Foundation Vents have 50 inches of net free area per vent. Therefore, install one vent for every 50 square feet of crawlspace.
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Jan 12, 2024 00:41
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The sideways blocks are a little weird. Probably won’t affect a whole lot but it seems unnecessary. Might be why there are so many vents. I can’t tell how big the house is but it looks like a lot. Our 1600 square foot house has 2 on each side.
Invalid Validation fucked around with this message at 06:17 on Jan 12, 2024 |
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Jan 12, 2024 06:14
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Invalid Validation posted:The sideways blocks are a little weird. Probably won’t affect a whole lot but it seems unnecessary. Might be why there are so many vents. I can’t tell how big the house is but it looks like a lot. Our 1600 square foot house has 2 on each side. It's only 1200 sqft edge to edge. 30x40 So it should have enough ventilation.
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Jan 12, 2024 16:25
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Hey goons, I just had an aggravating experience I thought might amuse the thread. In March 2023 I bought a Midea duo portable AC unit. I got it because I live in Seattle and some summers it gets hot enough to warrant using AC. The Midea was well reviewed. I got the unit with heating capability because it was a few bucks cheaper and I thought it would be good to have the heating combined with a fan during cold snaps. It could blow hot air around the room. So here we are in January. It's in the 20s, which is extremely cold for Seattle. I set up the Midea last night. I hooked the intake/exhaust hose up to the window. But the unit wouldn't work as a heater. It would run for a few minutes then just stop the fans. It didn't throw any error codes or anything. I read the manual and searched online. I didn't see anything that looked like my problem- some people said the fan motor broke, but mine was working, just not for very long. I called support this morning. After a few minutes talking to customer support the nice lady told me that the 41-86 heating operating temperature listed in the manual was a hard limit. When the intake air is below 41 degrees the expected behavior of the unit is to just stop. Because the heat pump won't operate to heat air colder than that. I had read the owners manual and saw that range listed. I just couldn't conceive of something being sold as a heater when it can't operate with exterior temperatures below 41 degrees. I'm not too upset because I bought it to be an AC and I've got adequate heat without it. I'm more bemused by the idea of them listing this thing as if it has any real utility as a heater. I also need to check if the 95 degree upper limit for cooling is also a hard stop for the unit, because if that's the case then it's worthless as an AC unit. Hope not! haha
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Jan 12, 2024 20:00
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For the heater, you could make it work by pulling air from inside. It's not optimal but I was successful in my garage (it still vented the exhaust outside).
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Jan 12, 2024 20:35
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Yeah, I thought of that. The thing is it has the exhaust and intake in one hose which is very oddly shaped. It would take a bit of work to create a set up to split the intake and exhaust so it could draw from inside and exhaust outside. I'm sure it's been done but I'm not at that point yet
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Jan 12, 2024 20:48
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Vim Fuego posted:Yeah, I thought of that. The thing is it has the exhaust and intake in one hose which is very oddly shaped. It would take a bit of work to create a set up to split the intake and exhaust so it could draw from inside and exhaust outside. I'm sure it's been done but I'm not at that point yet Not sure what the size of the hose is, but could you stick a dryer vent hose inside of the exhaust portion(by bending it the dryer hose) to make it still exhaust outside?
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Jan 12, 2024 21:06
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I am looking for bids again on getting my old attic insulation removed and replaced with fresh stuff (that doesn't have any rat or racoon poop in it). Matt Rissinger had an updated video of his "Insulation 2.0" stuff involving air-sealing attic-to-living space penetrations and doing a blower door test, etc: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_nOI99ew5MM Since I live in Austin, I got another bid from these guys: for 1650 square ft, they quoted me over $8500.  At that price I'm tempted to just try doing the air sealing portion myself and hiring out the vacuum and new insulation to a cheaper company. I'm not sure I really care about a blower door test, unless there are significant local and federal rebates for doing that. Rissinger has a link to the spray foam gun/kit for sealing the attic penetrations, and also included a link for the can light covers. I found a reddit post where a guy said he had similar work done for $4k. I could probably stomach that cost, but everything seems more expensive in Austin these days. I'm going to try to get other bids, but I'm curious if anyone else has done this, and what they paid for it. Lastly, following the two winter storms we've had where we lost power, I'm wondering to what level I should get our insulation up to. I see some people saying R38, some say R-49. Our current attic insulation is very poor. In 2021 the outside temps reached single digits, and since we had no power, the inside temps dropped to the low 50s, I think. In 2023, we had an ice storm where we lost power for several days, and I think our temps in the house again dropped down to the 50s. Edit: Forgot to include the reddit link: https://www.reddit.com/r/homeowners/comments/sbmmgy/make_sure_your_insulation_is_up_to_par_got_my/ ""OP posted:I have a small ranch, 1200 sq feet. It cost me 4k to remove the old insulation, vacuum and disinfect, seal up all holes and install new insulation. Job was done in one day. Got quotes from about 5 different companies, this was the best price. MetaJew fucked around with this message at 22:21 on Jan 12, 2024 |
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Jan 12, 2024 21:14
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a generator is cheaper than all of that stuff and will keep your house far warmer than 50° lol
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Jan 12, 2024 21:32
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Vim Fuego posted:Hey goons, I just had an aggravating experience I thought might amuse the thread. In March 2023 I bought a Midea duo portable AC unit. You bought a heat pump. Somewhere in the specs and such when you bought it was the temperature range it works through. Sorry. Try to sell it when it warms up. Now you know. They make heat pumps that work in ultra low temps but I doubt a window unit will hit 20f at any kind of useful rate of heating. MetaJew posted:I am looking for bids again on getting my old attic insulation removed and replaced with fresh stuff (that doesn't have any rat or racoon poop in it). Don't blow in fiberglass. What fresh hell would that be to need to do anything in your attic with it there. Anyone who suggests it should be laughed out the door. Cellulose is the only thing you should be loose filling something with.
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Jan 12, 2024 21:51
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H110Hawk posted:Don't blow in fiberglass. What fresh hell would that be to need to do anything in your attic with it there. Anyone who suggests it should be laughed out the door. Cellulose is the only thing you should be loose filling something with. Yikes, didn't realize that was fiberglass. I had assumed modern stuff was all cellulose. I'm sure I could sub that in any bid I get, but thanks for reminding me. right arm posted:a generator is cheaper than all of that stuff and will keep your house far warmer than 50° lol I mean, yes, that's partly true, but I would need to still put an interlock into my panel in order to power the house with a generator, and I would need to store gasoline at home and maintain said generator. I'm not aware of any ethanol free gasoline stations near me, and even non-ethanol gas eventually goes bad. Ultimately I would like to get solar + battery backups, but that's a few promotions or a lottery ticket away at the moment. REGARDLESS, my insulation is compacted fiberglass stuff from 1991, that is maybe 6 inches deep. So, it's insufficient either way and needs to be replaced. MetaJew fucked around with this message at 22:26 on Jan 12, 2024 |
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Jan 12, 2024 22:19
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MetaJew posted:Yikes, didn't realize that was fiberglass. I had assumed modern stuff was all cellulose. I'm sure I could sub that in any bid I get, but thanks for reminding me. Maybe I'm wrong but without pulling the spec sheet "propink l77 fiberglas-with-one-s" I'm betting isn't cellulose. 
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Jan 12, 2024 22:37
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SlayVus posted:Not sure what the size of the hose is, but could you stick a dryer vent hose inside of the exhaust portion(by bending it the dryer hose) to make it still exhaust outside? If it is the same as the Midea I have from Costco, that's what I did. The exhaust is a round tube in the bigger odd-shaped tube. I used some duct tape to seal it and attached it to a dry duct tubing (it is the same diameter as the dry duct).
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Jan 12, 2024 22:42
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MetaJew posted:I mean, yes, that's partly true, but I would need to still put an interlock into my panel in order to power the house with a generator, and I would need to store gasoline at home and maintain said generator. I'm not aware of any ethanol free gasoline stations near me, and even non-ethanol gas eventually goes bad. an interlock is like $70 max and can be installed with a drill & a screwdriver. being as you’re in austin I’d imagine you have ng so just get a trifuel portable generator (like me  ) and you’re golden. I personally wouldn’t want to deal with a gasoline generator either, but propane is an option even if you don’t have ng
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Jan 12, 2024 23:12
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Attic insulation will help keep your house cooler in the summer too. According to my home energy audit guy that's the #1 bang for the buck improvement you can do in most cases. Well worth doing.
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Jan 12, 2024 23:29
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