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well i've got something potentially major coming down but I need to figure out a good pricing scheme for acting as a fulfiller of physical 3d print orders for a ttrpg website. they'd market and do the order taking, I'd take the orders, print pack and ship them. I was leaning towards something like material cost + ~$2/hr to cover electricity/maintenance/bit of profit, 16/hr for having someone minimum wage packing it in a box, so a smaller print being like 15 mins, something huge being an hour to QA/pack, and then maybe ~30% on top of that for profit margin. Need to leave room for them to also make money off the buildings/minis as well. never been in this situation before but it could be pretty dope
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Jan 14, 2024 06:15
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ryanrs posted:
Getting the support material to come out of that narrow space neatly will be hard unless your support settings are dialed in real good.
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Jan 14, 2024 06:18
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I have a special tool for that. I can tell the shop to leave the supports in place.
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Jan 14, 2024 06:20
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I'd drag a support blocker over the root of the slot, like so  the gap will bridge fine and it provides enormous leverage to pry the support out in one chunk with a screwdriver or whatever
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Jan 14, 2024 06:38
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I’ve never injured myself worse than the times I tried to use something with any kind of point or edge to dig supports out of small spaces. :-/
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Jan 14, 2024 06:43
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Javid posted:I'd drag a support blocker over the root of the slot, like so This is a good idea. withak posted:I’ve never injured myself worse than the times I tried to use something with any kind of point or edge to dig supports out of small spaces. :-/ You can wear a pair of leather workgloves while doing this.
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Jan 14, 2024 06:44
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withak posted:I’ve never injured myself worse than the times I tried to use something with any kind of point or edge to dig supports out of small spaces. :-/ Wanna know a hack I figured out? Use Automotive Pick sets to dig them out. I have some cheap ones for some work on a car I was doing and I used it to remove some supports. Works wildly well. Just don’t stab yourself with them. https://www.amazon.com/Rotation-Pic...05214127&sr=8-4
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Jan 14, 2024 07:37
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queeb posted:well i've got something potentially major coming down but I need to figure out a good pricing scheme for acting as a fulfiller of physical 3d print orders for a ttrpg website. they'd market and do the order taking, I'd take the orders, print pack and ship them. Where do the models come from? As long as they're not rando models that sounds reasonable (rando models are just so much work, ugh)
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Jan 14, 2024 07:41
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Nah it's actually a fairly well established Canadian STL modeler, I already sell their stuff and it's good, they just want to get into doing physical sales on their site as they get a lot of people going there looking for it and they want to capture that. They're all supportless or presuported FDM stuff queeb fucked around with this message at 08:19 on Jan 14, 2024 |
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Jan 14, 2024 08:16
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That sounds fuckin baller then  Also makes great sense as a way for a modeler to dip into physical sales, without you know, doing physical sales 
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Jan 14, 2024 08:23
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What is everyone using for vat heating on a resin printer? Saturn 2 if that matters. I did not think I was going to need this in SoCal, but it is 45*F in my garage right now. Help, I don't know what weather is and I had to dig out a real jacket.
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Jan 14, 2024 08:27
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Fermenting heat belts seem to be the cheerful option.
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Jan 14, 2024 08:30
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Bondematt posted:What is everyone using for vat heating on a resin printer? Saturn 2 if that matters. Lol. I just also happen to be in SoCal with a Saturn 2 in my garage and was having print issues due to the temperature changes. This sorted me out: Brew fermentation heating belt - https://www.amazon.com/Brew-Fermentation-Heating-Belt-1-Count/dp/B001D6IUB6 And secured it to the vat with these clips - https://www.printables.com/model/316128-elegoo-saturn-2-vat-warmer-fermentation-belt-clips And the belt is plugged in to a temperature controller - https://www.amazon.com/Inkbird-Max-1200W-Temperature-Controller-Greenhouse/dp/B01HXM5UAC And I printed this riser to allow for the heating belt and temperature probe wire to pass through - https://www.printables.com/model/315341-elegoo-saturn-2-3-ultra-riser And I also printed out this modified piece for the riser to give something for the temperature controller to hang on to - https://www.printables.com/model/316138-ink-bird-and-fermentation-belt-modified-saturn-2-r And I opted to use this probe holder - https://www.printables.com/model/666775-saturn-2-inkbird-probe-arm I have the temperature controller set to 80 degrees with a +- 2 degree range. When I have the garage cracked with the fans going to vent the space, the temperature in the garage dips in to the 40s, and the fermentation belt has no problems keeping the resin at the temperature I want it to be at. Before I start a print, I usually have the temp controller on for at least an hour to get things to temp, and I lower the bed so that it's making contact with the resin so that it also gets warmed up. I'll edit this in a few minutes with a picture of my setup. edit:  Also, I like to keep the printer covered, both to help keep in heat, and to protect from any sunlight whenever I have to open the garage. Instead of buying a cover, turns out some boxes are a perfect fit... 
HamburgerTownUSA fucked around with this message at 09:14 on Jan 14, 2024 |
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Jan 14, 2024 08:57
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Oh poo poo, thank you!!! That setup looks perfect, and that box is wonderful. Is it still pretty easy to remove the vat? Looks like I got plans for next weekend.
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Jan 14, 2024 09:32
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Bondematt posted:Oh poo poo, thank you!!! Yeah it's no problem. The belt when cinched up is still wider than the vat, so the clips are helping push it against the perimeter (with the excess being in the corners), so when you take off the clips there's plenty of space to remove the vat. You'll want to take off the one bolt that's holding the probe holder in place first though, so you can wipe the probe down and move the probe holder and probe out of the way before you take the clips off to loosen the belt. It'll all make sense after you have it fitted up.
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Jan 14, 2024 09:40
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Here4DaGangBang posted:For every new filament I get I run a hollow calibration cube with 2 perimeters and no top, check the wall thickness, and write the resulting EM on the spool/create a preset for it in Pruslicer. Yeah I did EM calibration but did not pay close enough attention and "default looks good nuff" bit me in the rear end.
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Jan 14, 2024 13:04
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ilkhan posted:
I had my spools reset to all be white pla, then loaded my tail ends in all the slots and let it start printing some little five away items I make for shows. So to specifically answer your question it seems it would be same material same color On a separate issue I have started to have my rock solid p1s occasionally, on rounded top surfaces, leave pits/holes , and generally rough surface. Think 'top of a helmet, or top of a mushroom's thing being printed. I would say this was an under extrusion issue, but I have cases where if I have multiple identical objects going, it only affects one. Nearest I can figure is that cooling is bad there, but this is a recent thing that is pissing me off with 10-18 hour prints I really hate repeating. Roundboy fucked around with this message at 13:47 on Jan 14, 2024 |
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Jan 14, 2024 13:43
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withak posted:I’ve never injured myself worse than the times I tried to use something with any kind of point or edge to dig supports out of small spaces. :-/ If you haven't bled from support removal, you're not really a printer.
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Jan 14, 2024 15:39
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Roundboy posted:I had my spools reset to all be white pla, then loaded my tail ends in all the slots and let it start printing some little five away items I make for shows. Look into replacing your extruder gear. It’s a wear component that needs to be replaced roughly every few months of printing and causes underextrusion. I’d link you to a page on it but I’m mobile, it sounds like the symptoms match, except that I’m not sure why it would only impact one of several objects.
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Jan 14, 2024 17:53
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Does anyone have a resource on modeling a multiple part print? I have a stand I want to make for something but it's going to be a fair shot wider than my printer's viable volume so I'm going to have to make some puzzle piece slots or whatever. No idea what the best way to skin that cat might be.
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Jan 14, 2024 18:09
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Try the built-in thing in Prusaslicer, it can add alignment studs also.
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Jan 14, 2024 18:22
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withak posted:I’ve never injured myself worse than the times I tried to use something with any kind of point or edge to dig supports out of small spaces. :-/ https://www.amazon.com/AFA-Tooling-Deburring-Printed-Printing/dp/B0B7611J5Y if you use a blade to clean up 3d prints, it is not a matter of if you experience a major medical event, but when. get this before you end up in the hospital. this is true of almost any industry, using the wrong tool for a job is an excellent way to hurt yourself.
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Jan 14, 2024 18:23
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withak posted:Try the built-in thing in Prusaslicer, it can add alignment studs also. Do you know if this thing exists in orca, too? Or something similar? I'd love to make a multi-piece part for something that's too big to fit on my bed as a single piece. I'd search but I don't know the terms so I don't know what to look for
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Jan 14, 2024 18:27
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Deviant posted:https://www.amazon.com/AFA-Tooling-Deburring-Printed-Printing/dp/B0B7611J5Y But the noga set and be set up for life on deburring (unless you use it for metal in which case you'll need to replace the blades eventually).
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Jan 14, 2024 18:30
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hark posted:Do you know if this thing exists in orca, too? Or something similar? I'd love to make a multi-piece part for something that's too big to fit on my bed as a single piece. You can use Prusaslicer to split your model up and save the pieces out for slicing in Orcaslicer if you really don't want to configure it for your printer. ...but having Prusaslicer around as another slicer to try isn't going to be catastrophic, it's pretty solid.
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Jan 14, 2024 18:30
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Some Pinko Commie posted:You can use Prusaslicer to split your model up and save the pieces out for slicing in Orcaslicer if you really don't want to configure it for your printer. Orca can do this too.
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Jan 14, 2024 18:31
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I was adding to what withak said, but if it's in Orcaslicer a link to a tutorial would be great (if it isn't in Orcaslicer's support documentation the way it is for Prusaslicer).
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Jan 14, 2024 18:36
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Orca is a Prusa fork, so the splitty-connecty function should be close or identical. I honestly haven't used it in either though, so I might just be making stuff up.
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Jan 14, 2024 18:45
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What I'm hearing here is "don't use Cura". Couldn't hurt to see what's going on over in Orca land.
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Jan 14, 2024 18:47
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Some Pinko Commie posted:I was adding to what withak said, but if it's in Orcaslicer a link to a tutorial would be great (if it isn't in Orcaslicer's support documentation the way it is for Prusaslicer). yeah, it's identical, you can use the PrusaSlicer documentation for guidance on how to use the OrcaSlicer version screenshot of the OrcaSlicer dialog for comparison: 
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Jan 14, 2024 21:12
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Is there a best practice for gluing pla parts together, and a best type of glue?
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Jan 15, 2024 00:09
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I've been asked to print one of these guitars in a This part has a bunch of holes in it, which are going to cause the Monotonic first layer pattern to have undesirable color jumps.  Does anyone have suggestions about how I can get this thing printed in a way that cares about gradual color change on the first layer? On a side note, I can't thank this thread enough for helping me get to where I understood what my test cube was telling me. 30 minutes and I've got an extrusion width of exactly 0.45mm with an outer wall that looks shiny and awesome. cruft fucked around with this message at 00:24 on Jan 15, 2024 |
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Jan 15, 2024 00:11
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cruft posted:I've been asked to print one of these guitars in a color-changing silk PLA. Add a modifier to the first layer and print it without walls would be the first thing I'd try. Actually... Make the bottom layer have no holes by creating a slab exactly one layer tall. Then remove it with post processing. deimos fucked around with this message at 00:24 on Jan 15, 2024 |
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Jan 15, 2024 00:22
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cruft posted:I've been asked to print one of these guitars in a color-changing silk PLA. What I would do is fill in the holes with exactly 1 layer of material (primitives merged into the object) and then cut it out carefully from behind once it's printed, then clean up/debur the edges.
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Jan 15, 2024 00:22
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hark posted:Is there a best practice for gluing pla parts together, and a best type of glue? Plain ol’ cyanoacrylate superglue works fine.
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Jan 15, 2024 00:26
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deimos posted:Add a modifier to the first layer and print it without walls would be the first thing I'd try. Bodanarko posted:What I would do is fill in the holes with exactly 1 layer of material (primitives merged into the object) and then cut it out carefully from behind once it's printed, then clean up/debur the edges. This is a splendid idea, and I'm now embarrassed that it didn't occur to me.
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Jan 15, 2024 00:27
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Bodanarko posted:What I would do is fill in the holes with exactly 1 layer of material (primitives merged into the object) and then cut it out carefully from behind once it's printed, then clean up/debur the edges. I would cut it from the front, you risk peeling the layer if you come in from behind. Can use a heat gun to soften the single layer too.
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Jan 15, 2024 00:39
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hark posted:Is there a best practice for gluing pla parts together, and a best type of glue? I use gorilla glue gel. The gel makes it stick a little better and is a little easier to position that I’ve found.
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Jan 15, 2024 00:44
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cruft posted:I've been asked to print one of these guitars in a Have a link to STLs for this?
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Jan 15, 2024 01:25
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mewse posted:Have a link to STLs for this? Oh sure. I'm building Rock Band guitars, but maybe they're good as standalone small models, too  https://www.printables.com/model/479046-minicaster-mini-clone-heromidi-controller
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Jan 15, 2024 02:22
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