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IncredibleIgloo posted:Tamiya has this neat looking baby drill : https://www.amazon.com/Tamiya-74041...ps%2C234&sr=8-5 I just got this, more out of curiosity than anything. This thing has more torque than my Dremel Stylus. Cheap poo poo for the win!
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Jan 5, 2024 07:20
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I... uh... No one is going to believe this. My boss, after hearing me give a presentation on scale modeling at the company Christmas party, mailed me a Bandai PG Millennium Falcon. Still processing that.
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Jan 5, 2024 18:42
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Warmachine posted:after hearing me give a presentation on scale modeling at the company Christmas party I'm still processing this part of your post.
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Jan 5, 2024 19:14
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Warmachine posted:I... uh... No one is going to believe this. 
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Jan 5, 2024 19:16
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I had a miniature painting club at Work and even got the company to pay for brushes and paints. This was one of those startups where the execs got a ton of funding based on their ex-Facebook/Amazon pedigree but had no idea what they wanted to build, blew all their money in three years, and we all got fired. Maybe I should have milked them for a bigger kit too.
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Jan 5, 2024 19:29
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I don't remember if this was posted here, but this rocks: https://x.com/zachklein/status/1743316287231525117?s=20
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Jan 5, 2024 20:32
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Warmachine posted:I... uh... No one is going to believe this. You gunna share that presentation here?
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Jan 5, 2024 20:36
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Skunkduster posted:I'm still processing this part of your post. Look buddy, people do way more embarrassing things for the company talent show. Bucnasti posted:You gunna share that presentation here? I probably should, because I used some goon creations as examples of what people can achieve that is currently beyond my skill level or interest. My coworkers think y'all are my hobby club.
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Jan 5, 2024 21:43
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Kibner posted:I don't remember if this was posted here, but this rocks: I need to go back to Entertrainment Junction again sometime...
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Jan 5, 2024 22:47
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Cthulu Carl posted:I need to go back to Entertrainment Junction again sometime... If I ever make my way to Germany, I've got a bucket list item to tick off in Hamburg.
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Jan 5, 2024 22:49
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Kibner posted:I don't remember if this was posted here, but this rocks: Paging Sir Rod Stewart.
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Jan 5, 2024 22:55
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Warmachine posted:I probably should, because I used some goon creations as examples of what people can achieve that is currently beyond my skill level or interest. My coworkers think y'all are my hobby club. Please do share! You guys *are* my hobby club. I rarely talk about it in person with people cuz that'd just be fuckin *weird.*
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Jan 6, 2024 00:23
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Warmachine posted:If I ever make my way to Germany, I've got a bucket list item to tick off in Hamburg. The International Maritimes Museum is like a block away and has one of the world’s premium collection of ship models. Just breath taking stuff.
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Jan 6, 2024 02:21
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FrozenVent posted:The International Maritimes Museum is like a block away and has one of the world’s premium collection of ship models. Just breath taking stuff. There are an amazing number of museums in Europe with wooden model ship collections that are simply amazing.
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Jan 6, 2024 04:42
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Chuck_D posted:Please do share! You guys *are* my hobby club. I rarely talk about it in person with people cuz that'd just be fuckin *weird.* Your Dauntless was one of the ones I referenced, actually!
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Jan 6, 2024 04:52
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Charliegrs posted:I believe they are a wash with clumps of pigment mixed in to simulate things like mud and dirt clumps. And from what I've seen they work pretty well. Also I think you are supposed to just use it right from the jar no thinning. If you want a good idea of what it looks like check out the YouTube channel Andy's Hobby HQ and look for his build videos he uses the AK Effects on a lot of his builds. Here's what I'm talking about  The pieces of text are color tests and there's no texture pigment in there. Looks like a normal enamel paint with the exception that it seems to dry rather slowly. I did the test at least 48h ago and the thicker areas of paint are still gummy and I can smudge them about with my fingers. Didn't have that happen with basic enamel pot paints so far. I expected these to be like washes but since they aren't I wanted to get some information before I slap them on my build and ruin everything 
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Jan 6, 2024 16:22
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Tin Tim posted:Thanks for the reply but that's not the type of paint I was talking about. I'm still going to snoop around that Yt channel though on the off-chance that I see the type of paint in use.      
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Jan 6, 2024 16:53
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Thank you very much! I absolutely was not aware of them having these neat little guides
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Jan 7, 2024 01:00
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I'm painting a Bradley in desert camo. I did some pre shading, but I want to do some post shading as well to make areas look faded by the sun. Most of the time I mix buff into whatever base color Im using to get this effect would that still work with desert yellow or should I mix it with a different color? Maybe white?
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Jan 7, 2024 01:52
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That sounds like it's crying for a white oil application, but if you don't like oils, you might try something along the lines of Vallejo deck tan. A light off-white will desaturate without making it look quite as chalky as straight-up white, and sun bleaching is more of a saturation than a hue change.
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Jan 7, 2024 02:20
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Warmachine posted:Your Dauntless was one of the ones I referenced, actually! Aw dude, that's awesome! I'm flattered and that totally made my day.  Now I really want to see the presentation. 
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Jan 7, 2024 03:02
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Skunkduster posted:I'm still processing this part of your post. In the corporate world, sometimes you get asked to do something for team building. I once got asked to do a Scotch tasting as the only part of my annual goals. See, we'd just had two rounds of layoffs, I was the only IT person left, and the acting GM had to give me a review and objectives but had absolutely no idea what I did or should be doing. He knew I liked and was knowledgeable about a subject and asked me to share with the team. We did need a bonding experience and morale boost, so it was actually a good move. So, I got to go booze shopping on the company's dime and share something I enjoy with a whole bunch of people who enjoyed hearing about it. And drinking company booze. I will join in the call to see the presentation though. The Locator posted:There are an amazing number of museums in Europe with wooden model ship collections that are simply amazing. Here's a good one. Unless something goes horribly wrong, I'll be visiting this one in August. The Locator posted:There are an amazing number of museums in Europe with wooden model ship collections that are simply amazing. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4t7ZUl4r5X8 mllaneza fucked around with this message at 03:52 on Jan 7, 2024 |
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Jan 7, 2024 03:50
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How the hell do I paint link and length tracks? I've watched a bunch of YouTube videos and have picked up putting them together on tape, then gluing, then laying them over the wheels as the glue is drying. I've also picked up to not glue the wheels so the whole thing can be removed as a unit. But if I paint them first, how do I use a slow curing glue and not superglue? But if it don't paint them first, am I painting the inside of the tracks around the wheels? Isn't that a massive pain in the rear end? Help me thread, I'm stuck.
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Jan 15, 2024 20:02
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it won't be the strongest bond but tamiya's thin glue will (eventually) work its way through paint to make a bond
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Jan 15, 2024 20:18
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stealie72 posted:How the hell do I paint link and length tracks? This is what I would do. Remove the tracks as a unit, clean the areas that will make contact with some Tamiya lacquer thinner to remove the paint (in my experience Tamiya lacquer thinner has never melted plastic) then I would just dab some CA glue on the those area and put the tracks back on the tank and join it together. Edit: There is another option. If the wheels use poly caps then you can glue the tracks together on the wheels and remove the whole thing (tracks and wheels) together as a unit. That makes it easier to paint the tracks because you can access the backside easily. I see Night Shift on YouTube do it this way a lot. Charliegrs fucked around with this message at 21:31 on Jan 15, 2024 |
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Jan 15, 2024 21:27
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Might be doing something silly atm in that I’m getting 3 separate kits on the go mostly just so I can prep car bodies and get them sprayed while I’m still off work. Main reason for doing this is the weather despite it being summer has been rubbish so the few good days we get I need to make use of and in addition to that I need to airbrush outside so I figure if I get 3 car bodies primed and sprayed I can plug away on them during the school term.
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Jan 15, 2024 23:02
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This is a process that can be tackled a thousand different ways. I prefer, and find that I get better results, by dry fitting the wheels, idler, and drive sprockets to the hull, then assembling the tracks around them, then, once the glue has set, taking the tracks & wheels off and painting everything separately. To "assemble the track," I lay the links and lengths flat on the work table and put a small tab of Tamiya ultra thin glue at the join between two pieces. I repeat that so that I have enough pieces to wrap around the idler or sprocket, then once the glue has semi set, I wrap them around the idler and sprocket to form them. Repeat that in sections until you have a full track. Then remove everything after it's set and paint everything separately. I hope that makes sense. I don't like to glue the wheels to the track as I find I have a hard time painting the rubber of the wheels without nicking the track or vice versa. I also don't use tape to form them around the idler or sprocket then apply glue because inevitably I end up gluing the track to those parts.
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Jan 15, 2024 23:03
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the straightforward solution is to pony up for a workable set of tracks, paint them and then slide them on over the wheels and sprockets
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Jan 15, 2024 23:24
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Chuck_D posted:I prefer, and find that I get better results, by dry fitting the wheels, idler, and drive sprockets to the hull, then assembling the tracks around them, then, once the glue has set, taking the tracks & wheels off and painting everything separately.
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Jan 15, 2024 23:38
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You're very welcome. Good luck on the build and be sure to post pics!
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Jan 16, 2024 03:03
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Raskolnikov38 posted:the straightforward solution is to pony up for a workable set of tracks, paint them and then slide them on over the wheels and sprockets I know that aftermarket tracks can be kind of pricey and a real chore to put together but I think I'm going to start using them because I've about had it with vinyl tracks. The tracks on the Tamiya Bradley I'm working on are just so horrendous looking.
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Jan 16, 2024 03:05
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The latest thing now are 3D printed tracks. The good quality ones are dead simple to assemble, have almost zero flashing and no sprue gates, and look amazing. Basically ready for assembly right out of the box, zero cleanup. Some guy did a nice review roundup of the major players in 3D printed tracks: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pedp1ZXqA2A https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pBzdJEbAxhY
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Jan 16, 2024 03:26
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yeah the ones i got from t-rex studios for my t-55/type 59 rock, way better than the workable tracks miniart sells for their own kit lol
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Jan 16, 2024 03:58
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It hasn’t yet happened with car models but there’s piles of 3D printed parts available for other types of models. I think it’s cool that people don’t have to struggle through building piles of etched guns when they can get a plug and play option instead
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Jan 16, 2024 04:36
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:The latest thing now are 3D printed tracks. The good quality ones are dead simple to assemble, have almost zero flashing and no sprue gates, and look amazing. Basically ready for assembly right out of the box, zero cleanup. I have used Quicktracks for both a Panzer38 and a T-34. Mostly because I can't cope with cleaning up 200 identical parts and will inevitably make a mess of the assembly. I chose Quicktracks mostly because the price was very good and shipping from the manufacturer in Poland was very reasonable. The Quicktracks are 3d printed and "snap" together. They went together easily and flawlessly and are so nice and surprisingly durable. You also get lots of extra links for spares and use as accessories. I will probably get Quicktracks for every tank I build unless it comes with easily built workable tracks out of the box. https://quickwheelstore.com/quicktracks/1-35quicktracks.html
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Jan 16, 2024 05:34
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stealie72 posted:How the hell do I paint link and length tracks? I have a related question. I have a model airplane that has windows behind the pilot. These need to be mounted after painting that section of the fuselage but I'm worried about getting a good bond or damaging the paint by using extra thin cement. I also can't leave a bare section as it would be visible around the rim of the glass. Is the best option could to hold it in with a clear glue like Micro Crystal Kleer or small drops of PVA?
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Jan 16, 2024 07:52
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Grumio posted:I have a related question. I have a model airplane that has windows behind the pilot. These need to be mounted after painting that section of the fuselage but I'm worried about getting a good bond or damaging the paint by using extra thin cement. I also can't leave a bare section as it would be visible around the rim of the glass. I haven't tried it, but maybe some clear UV curing resin/epoxy?
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Jan 16, 2024 14:35
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Best bet is a pva like Krystal kleer. Any you get on the clear part is easily cleaned off with water. UV resin could be an option, but any smears would be harder to get off the inside.
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Jan 16, 2024 15:01
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My go-to clear non-cement/superglue for transparencies is Mig Ultra Glue. It's another pva type like krystal klear that can be diluted with/cleaned up with water but it dries quite slowly and grips p tight. It's designed for photoetch but I also use it for canopies and anything non-weightbearing that might need a bit of wriggling to fit into place.
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Jan 16, 2024 16:33
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Thanks all, will report back
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Jan 16, 2024 18:09
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