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Anyone got a suggestion for a P1S poop bucket which doesn't clog? Mine keeps catching the poop on the chute instead of the bucket and then clogging up.
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Jan 23, 2024 18:27
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hark posted:In reference to the person a few posts back mentioning the kobra 2 max, I'd never seen this printer before, but based on how it looks I'm curious, is this one of those printers where you have to tinker with it to get good prints? I'd love a large format printer but I went from maximum tinkering to no tinkering printers and never really touched anything in between so I have no idea what's out there and how things are now. I went based off that, since my concern was size + speed, my pick fell between Neptune 4 max and kobra 2 max, and I did my very limited basic research on both and kobra 2 max seemed like a better deal, considering how many people complained about neptune 4 max to date. Would love to actually hear from people with either one of these.
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Jan 23, 2024 18:45
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Deviant posted:
I have both a Mono X and an M5s and while it's certainly faster, I don't know if it's better than the Mono X to justify the price. Do you want faster, average prints or slower, higher quality prints?
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Jan 23, 2024 23:32
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BlackIronHeart posted:I have both a Mono X and an M5s and while it's certainly faster, I don't know if it's better than the Mono X to justify the price. Do you want faster, average prints or slower, higher quality prints? I want a printer that actually completes prints, and right now my Mono X is: - a bit smaller than i'd like. - failing to produce usable results leading to constant vat drains/cleanings (i think because the screen is getting old/worn) - it's nearly impossible to remove the vat bolts, i think they've become worn or cross threaded over time - just generally not behaving how 'd like it to
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Jan 23, 2024 23:38
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that sounds like a new vat problem than a new printer problem. Theres plastic vats now if you want to try fix the problem on the cheap and arent sure where the problem might be.
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Jan 23, 2024 23:44
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Synthbuttrange posted:that sounds like a new vat problem than a new printer problem. Theres plastic vats now if you want to try fix the problem on the cheap and arent sure where the problem might be. The issue is the screws not threading into the base of the printer, the vat is just a hole they pass through.
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Jan 23, 2024 23:46
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Ah, sorry. That sounds like a pain. Didnt realize they changed their design to make it more tedious to remove the vat instead of the screw clamps they used to have. Is retapping the thread an option?
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Jan 23, 2024 23:57
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My suggestion then is to at least look at the M5s Pro over the M5s but I'm no longer convinced Anycubic is the best budget friendly manufacturer and Elegoo has supplanted them.
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Jan 23, 2024 23:59
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BlackIronHeart posted:My suggestion then is to at least look at the M5s Pro over the M5s but I'm no longer convinced Anycubic is the best budget friendly manufacturer and Elegoo has supplanted them. I am open to suggestions for other printers, tbh. I primarily print cosplay props, so micron level quality isn't necessarily my biggest driver, but resin pieces are more appropriate than FDM For some case. It is nice to be able to bootleg space dollies though. Deviant fucked around with this message at 00:08 on Jan 24, 2024 |
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Jan 24, 2024 00:06
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If I had to buy a sub $500 resin printer right now, this instant, it'd be a Saturn 3 Ultra.
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Jan 24, 2024 00:12
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BlackIronHeart posted:If I had to buy a sub $500 resin printer right now, this instant, it'd be a Saturn 3 Ultra. i see that it's generally well liked, except it doesnt seem to self level and it doesn't support lycheeslicer?
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Jan 24, 2024 00:24
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Elegoo printers seem to be Chitubox whatever and I hate them. UVTools seems to be something you can use if you're on Windows to convert other SLA format files into something an elegoo printer will accept but I hosed around and put Linux Mint on my old home PC and am relearning that poo poo.
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Jan 24, 2024 00:50
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I can't really recommend an Elegoo printer until they get that z-squish thing figured out. Only been several years, they are bound to get it figured out at some point, right? If you don't care about losing z height in the start of your model, since you print everything on supports anyway, then it's a fine printer.
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Jan 24, 2024 01:11
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I'm sorry the z squish what
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Jan 24, 2024 02:08
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Deviant posted:I'm sorry the z squish what Z squish my balls, heh. The Elegoo printers all lose about the first .3-.7mm of a print which ends up squished like the build plate just keeps going back to zero. No one really knows why, and elegoo hasn't addressed it. There's a reddit post about it maybe once a week, and everyone just kinda shrugs since it's small enough not to be a big deal. You can correct it a bit by printing a calibration square, move the z height up from home by as much as you lost, and then zeroing. I don't think you can fully calibrate it out though, but I got my from .5 to like .15. Edit: Here's a link to one of the better threads on it: https://www.reddit.com/r/ElegooSaturn/s/ZCLs8r3eRV Looks like it happens to every printer running Chitu boards. Bondematt fucked around with this message at 02:31 on Jan 24, 2024 |
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Jan 24, 2024 02:25
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oooh thats why my cubes arent cubes
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Jan 24, 2024 03:16
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Synthbuttrange posted:oooh thats why my cubes arent cubes Yeah, and that's the funniest thing about it. For the majority of people printing, it will never matter. .5mm has little impact on miniatures on bases and supported models. Then there's me spending 2 days trying to figure out why my case is printing exactly the same amount short every time despite leveling using different methods.
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Jan 24, 2024 03:42
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Deviant posted:well i've had the Mono X quite a while, and i think the screen is on its way out and it had a resin leak at one point. So we also factor in the labor cost of sourcing/waiting for a screen, further repairs, etc into the upgrade. Probably not, d I'd go with elegoo instead of anycubic. I have Saturn 2's and 3s, and Id just grab a 2 for the money. Customer service is better, and parts are cheap/available if you truly gently caress things up hard
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Jan 24, 2024 07:47
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Bondematt posted:I can't really recommend an Elegoo printer until they get that z-squish thing figured out. Similar problems happened for years in FDM when the problem was that build surfaces weren't truly flat within that range. Maybe there is a similar problem because of the physical limits of the Z-axis and homing switch location (or straight up repeatability in the switch itself)? But then again, nothing I print in resin has to be mechanically accurate and that's probably true of most resin printer users in the hobby area (everything is about visually appealing artistic shapes), which is why they don't fix it. If you want mechanically stronger prints you print it in some FDM printer anyway. Some Pinko Commie fucked around with this message at 08:35 on Jan 24, 2024 |
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Jan 24, 2024 08:30
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Some Pinko Commie posted:If you want mechanically stronger prints you print it in some FDM printer anyway. Yeah, but you can't print funtastic clear colors in FDM.
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Jan 24, 2024 09:09
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Bondematt posted:Yeah, but you can't print funtastic clear colors in FDM. Sure you can, PETG comes in all sorts.
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Jan 24, 2024 16:53
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So I guess one of my new requirements is that any new resin printer has to work with Lychee slicer, which the Elegoo appears to not. I'm still looking heavily at that M5S, but i am open to suggestions. The Elegoo squish thing turns me off, it feels like their QC isnt great if that's just "a thing"
Deviant fucked around with this message at 17:50 on Jan 24, 2024 |
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Jan 24, 2024 17:48
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Bondematt posted:Yeah, but you can't print funtastic clear colors in FDM. Plenty of fun PET* filaments out there can do this, just pack the print in a fine non-flammable material and bake it in an oven for a bit and the layer lines will disappear. They need to be solid objects for it to work, though. Also less PPE required than your resin equivalent.
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Jan 24, 2024 17:54
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Some Pinko Commie posted:They need to be solid objects for it to work, though. For it to be really transparent, yes, but you can also get really cool effects by setting the infill pattern to something interesting since it will show through.
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Jan 24, 2024 18:07
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Dr. Fishopolis posted:Sure you can, PETG comes in all sorts. That gives you the color, not the transparency of a fantastic case. You're either casting it, or SLA printing it.
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Jan 24, 2024 18:09
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Some Pinko Commie posted:Plenty of fun PET* filaments out there can do this, just pack the print in a fine non-flammable material and bake it in an oven for a bit and the layer lines will disappear. ...or I could just print it in SLA...
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Jan 24, 2024 18:11
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Bondematt posted:That gives you the color, not the transparency of a fantastic case. It's plenty transparent if you sand off or anneal the layer lines. Probably not as much as a resin print, but the point is that resin isn't strong enough, no? e: maybe i conflated two discussions here soz
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Jan 24, 2024 18:16
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Dr. Fishopolis posted:It's plenty transparent if you sand off or anneal the layer lines. Probably not as much as a resin print, but the point is that resin isn't strong enough, no? I think so. The other guy mentioned strength, which isn't my issue. Annealing would cause warping of thinner prints with holes, right? I've never seen PETG be as clear as resin is when sanded & clear coated, but if there's a tutorial for that, I'd definitely give it a try.
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Jan 24, 2024 18:44
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man this upcoming re-release of the old world warhammer fantasy has been nuts, pretty sure i've sold like 5 full armies so far of minis to people. currently printing 178 dwarf minis for one dude
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Jan 24, 2024 18:50
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Deviant posted:So I guess one of my new requirements is that any new resin printer has to work with Lychee slicer, which the Elegoo appears to not. I'm still looking heavily at that M5S, but i am open to suggestions. The Elegoo squish thing turns me off, it feels like their QC isnt great if that's just "a thing" What's this elegoo squish thing you're talking about? As an aside, all these printers come from the same factory. I guarantee you they all come out withing a degree of each other, and elegoos customer service has been really solid through the 10+ printers Ivr had from them Also elegoos work with lychee. It's what I've been using for years
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Jan 24, 2024 18:57
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Feeling like a supergenius right now because the UPS saved my print from a short outage 
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Jan 24, 2024 20:44
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w00tmonger posted:What's this elegoo squish thing you're talking about? As an aside, all these printers come from the same factory. I guarantee you they all come out withing a degree of each other, and elegoos customer service has been really solid through the 10+ printers Ivr had from them Bondematt posted:Z squish my balls, heh. w00tmonger posted:Also elegoos work with lychee. It's what I've been using for years And the Saturn 3 ultra is not listed as a supported lychee printer on their website but i admit i did not open the software to check.
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Jan 24, 2024 23:10
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gently caress BTT. This octopus I got a few months back doesn't have SPI wired in correctly to the drivers.
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Jan 24, 2024 23:14
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That's interesting I wasn't aware All this said, anycubic, elegoo, and the majority of resin printers all use chitu boards
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Jan 24, 2024 23:18
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Deviant posted:And the Saturn 3 ultra is not listed as a supported lychee printer on their website but i admit i did not open the software to check. The website isn't typically a good place to see an up-to-date list of what's compatible because it's updated less frequently than the software itself.  edit: FWIW, I checked https://mango3d.io/lychee-slicer-supported-3d-printers/ and the Saturn 3 Ultra is listed as supported on there too. HamburgerTownUSA fucked around with this message at 23:25 on Jan 24, 2024 |
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Jan 24, 2024 23:23
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HamburgerTownUSA posted:The website isn't typically a good place to see an up-to-date list of what's compatible because it's updated less frequently than the software itself. then i'm back to having no idea what i want! I must have misread that page. edit: yeah i scrolled to S for saturn not E for Elegoo. i'm currently deep cleaning the mono x to see if it decides to behave or if the light and bolt holes are truly hosed. more on this as it develops. Deviant fucked around with this message at 05:03 on Jan 25, 2024 |
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Jan 25, 2024 04:58
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Deviant posted:then i'm back to having no idea what i want! I must have misread that page. thread wise, if the threads are trashed, there should be enough meat around the hole to use a helicoil insert
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Jan 25, 2024 17:11
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fins posted:there should be enough meat around the hole
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Jan 25, 2024 17:25
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ilkhan posted:Anyone got a suggestion for a P1S poop bucket which doesn't clog? Mine keeps catching the poop on the chute instead of the bucket and then clogging up. I tried a few different options and they all eventually backed up into the printer. My solution was to say gently caress it, and now I just sweep the floor when needed.
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Jan 25, 2024 17:49
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ilkhan posted:Anyone got a suggestion for a P1S poop bucket which doesn't clog? Mine keeps catching the poop on the chute instead of the bucket and then clogging up. https://www.printables.com/model/254061-bambu-lab-purgeflushpoop-bucket-for-x1-or-x1-carbo/files this one works for me with my P1S.
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Jan 25, 2024 17:54
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