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ryanrs posted:Dunno how well-known this is outside of electronic design, but you should be able to get good STEP files of most electronic parts like switches, relays, etc tangential periodic reminder that McMaster-Carr also does this for most of the products on their website. it's not everything but  there are options
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Feb 4, 2024 09:13
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Bambulabs just told all A1 owners to stop using their printers: https://blog.bambulab.com/a1-recall-update/ You can send it back or get them to send out fixed heatbeds sometime around the end of March. $80 discount if you send your printer back, $120 qif you wait for the heatbed. I'm just going to wait and use the money to buy filament.
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Feb 4, 2024 12:16
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Yeah, option 2 is the way to go if you want to keep the machine and aren't afraid of a little surgery. That's some pretty generous compensation. Mine *seems* perfectly fine, but I bought it as a sort of spare machine for quick single-color prints anyway, so I don't mind leaving it shut down unit the bed can be replaced. It sucks that this is happening in general, but I think Bambu's response has been drat good compared to your average Anet or Creality.
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Feb 4, 2024 13:09
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I'm bummed because I literally just got my printer this week, but would rather get some extra money and replace the bed than send it back.
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Feb 4, 2024 14:10
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i havent even seen the A1 for sale in canada yet, still shows coming soon on their site. I wanna buy a couple once it pops up edit: still making insane sales every day, currently doing an average of 605/day since jan 1, average is actually going up still. poo poo be crazy
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Feb 4, 2024 14:56
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ryanrs posted:Dunno how well-known this is outside of electronic design, but you should be able to get good STEP files of most electronic parts like switches, relays, etc. Basic stuff like chips and resistors tend to have generic models, but something like a circuit breaker will often have a STEP that looks to be exported straight from the manuf’s CAD sources. Like you can disassemble the STEP file in your CAD program and see all the mechanical guts inside. It varies by manufacturer, but some are very detailed. McMaster-Carr for the win lol     We offer company name customization as well lol 
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Feb 4, 2024 15:21
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seeing people make big benchies and large flexi-rexes has always seemed very "meh" to me But "giant electrical components" is for some reason doing a lot for me
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Feb 4, 2024 18:53
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Like I said, it's a great ornament for the front desk at electrical suppliers.
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Feb 4, 2024 19:27
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Here's something I don't quite understand: My baselayers are always "weird". They stick as a general rule but you can always tell which side was facing down. I don't quite understand why the top layer of a print looks that much better. Also, something like a third of the time my brims/skirts/whatever seem to fail or just not work very well. Even when this happens, the part proper is usually fine. Is there something I should look to tweak or should I just forego the Build Plate Adhesion stuff entirely? The PFA or whatever plate that came with my Ender 3 S1 seems to be doing well enough on its own.
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Feb 4, 2024 22:59
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Bottom layer always looks better than top layer to me. Ironing helps but is slow. Pics can help us diagnose.
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Feb 4, 2024 23:28
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ilkhan posted:. Pics can help us diagnose. This
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Feb 5, 2024 00:01
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Hang tight and I’ll get some when I get to the house.
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Feb 5, 2024 00:53
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Any tips for printing transparent PLA? I ordered this Elegoo PLA+ for my P1S and I'm trying to design a shade for an LED but not sure if the transparent requires any specific considerations.
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Feb 5, 2024 01:23
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Shadowgate posted:Any tips for printing transparent PLA? I ordered this Elegoo PLA+ for my P1S and I'm trying to design a shade for an LED but not sure if the transparent requires any specific considerations. I haven’t used the Elegoo stuff but the transparent/translucent PLA I’ve got from Coex has printed just like their normal PLA (which admittedly is a bit weird in that it wants like 240C but all of their PLA is like that).
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Feb 5, 2024 01:32
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 Well I guess I got lucky and got a “good” example while I was out. The bottom few here that didn’t fail catastrophically display a bit of what I’m talking about. I know that the shape here isn’t helping any but what I’m talking about can be seen along the second from the left clip, along the top left. The brim is there, but not really adhering to itself or the plate. Most of what is shown here is due to the rest of the print failing, but hopefully you get my meaning. As for the “bottom” of prints looking worse in general:  Note the “lining” across the rectangle at the bottom of this picture. Vs the top of the piece:  The lines are still present but less pronounced. There is a pretty significant difference in “smoothness” to the touch via finger or nail. It’s not a major issue though I do wonder why it’s the top that’s smoother and not the base. Edit: And now the print is working fine despite my only change being re-slicing without the brims. What's extra fun is that I did this exact same config to begin with and it didn't stick. I did have the window open so I do wonder if ambient air temp is screwing me here somehow. Warbird fucked around with this message at 01:41 on Feb 5, 2024 |
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Feb 5, 2024 01:36
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Your z offset is way off in that second picture. Probably causing most of your adhesion issue.
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Feb 5, 2024 03:04
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Printed a test print at smaller scale of this mandalorian helmet because a guy I work with said he'd pay me for a full size one. Seemed to be working well with supports, but the top looks pixelated sort of? And on the inside, you can see the difference in the same section. Any ideas what is causing this? Still trying to learn the ins and outs of the settings in orca, but it's been slow going since I can't dedicate as much time as I'd like to with this hobby. P1s with polyterra PLA   
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Feb 5, 2024 03:11
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Warbird posted:
I don't know what Creality's firmware refers to it as, but you likely need to make your z-offset more negative. You need to squish your first layer by an additional 0.5mm at least. Possibly even .75mm. The diagonal lines should overlap slightly, so you shouldn't be able to run your fingernail across the bottom layer and feel any bumps.
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Feb 5, 2024 03:20
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Yeah nozzle is too high on the first layer.
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Feb 5, 2024 03:20
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Noted, thanks to both of you. It's currently at -3.21 and I've been lowering it in increments of .01 or so. I'll find something to print tomorrow and increase that increment to .25 instead.
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Feb 5, 2024 03:31
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your problems would be solved with a bambu x1c (why am i setting a z offset when the machine is obviously capable? get it together, josef)
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Feb 5, 2024 04:03
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Warbird posted:Noted, thanks to both of you. It's currently at -3.21 and I've been lowering it in increments of .01 or so. I'll find something to print tomorrow and increase that increment to .25 instead. If you have calipers, just print this https://www.printables.com/model/25261-first-layer-calibration-test
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Feb 5, 2024 04:38
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hark posted:Printed a test print at smaller scale of this mandalorian helmet because a guy I work with said he'd pay me for a full size one. Seemed to be working well with supports, but the top looks pixelated sort of? And on the inside, you can see the difference in the same section. Any ideas what is causing this? Still trying to learn the ins and outs of the settings in orca, but it's been slow going since I can't dedicate as much time as I'd like to with this hobby. When layers are printed at an angle, it creates a "staircase" effect. Because each layer is the same height, this effect is more pronounced when the angle is sharper. The "flatter" the staircase made up by the layers, the more noticeable this effect. Near the top of the helmet, the "staircase" is very flat indeed, because each layer is so much smaller than the one before it. Two things to point out: 1. When you print a full-sized helmet this effect will be LESS noticeable overall (but not eliminated), because the layer lines are the same size but the object is bigger, making it less noticeable overall. In other words, the smaller your printed object the more obvious the effect, and vice versa. 2. You can help reduce this effect by using adaptive layer height. Print at shorter layer heights as soon once you get to that area at the top of the helmet, and the effect will be much reduced. Shorter layer heights means shorter "steps" in the staircase, which offsets the issue. The inside appearance is kinda related to this. Even with supports, part of each layer sort of has its rear end hanging in mid-air and similar issues. It works but just looks a bit ugly.
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Feb 5, 2024 04:55
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eyyy we did it  drat i made this post on jan 12:  thats 500 sales in 3 weeks basically queeb fucked around with this message at 07:12 on Feb 5, 2024 |
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Feb 5, 2024 05:23
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The ender 3 had heat creep a week ago and filament completely clogged the old heat break that I couldn’t unclog. I ended up getting the bi-Metal heatbreak I’ve seen on some YouTube videos and lowered my retraction settings to 2 mm. Really happy with it so far. The best part is not worrying about the PTFE getting a good seal.
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Feb 5, 2024 05:27
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hark posted:Printed a test print at smaller scale of this mandalorian helmet because a guy I work with said he'd pay me for a full size one. Seemed to be working well with supports, but the top looks pixelated sort of? And on the inside, you can see the difference in the same section. Any ideas what is causing this? Still trying to learn the ins and outs of the settings in orca, but it's been slow going since I can't dedicate as much time as I'd like to with this hobby. Lower the layer height. Also depending on the size of your buddies head, i print this one al; day every day and its flawless. I scale it to 85% for kids, and leave it full size for adults. The side bits also print separate: Matte grey with a bit of light sanding at high grit and its good for most things. Or use some filler primer to be really cosplay perfect. https://makerworld.com/en/models/45282#profileId-47022 Use his defaults. Change the filament (and for some reason he has the bed @ 80 for the helmet, i fix that) but this is literally 'hit a button, get helmet for me. I have done at least 5 full size so far
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Feb 5, 2024 07:44
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queeb posted:eyyy we did it Congrats! Hey if I may ask, do you use Canada Post for all your shipping or have you found a better solution?
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Feb 5, 2024 07:47
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Thanks to some luck and a decent tax refund I might be selling off my Neptune 2S and picking up a P1S/AMS combo. How well does the built-in filter and enclosure cut down on the fumes? I plan on having this in my home office, which has a room purifier in it as well. PLA and PETG have been fine, but it might be nice to play with something else like ASA once I get a printer I haven't had to frankenstein into working well.
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Feb 5, 2024 08:41
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queeb posted:eyyy we did it I've been following your posts with great interest since getting my own printer, as I'm also into D&D and have been wondering about selling similar stuff, congrats  ! I've skimmed your posts from the beginning and it's very cool how you just started out with a "bought an ender 3" and now you're at this point.I hope you don't mind me asking a few questions, seeing as I'm trying to break into your "field" (even though on the other side of the planet from you). Did you create the STL files for dungeon tiles etc. yourself or did you buy licensed STL from somewhere? I've found a few options that seem cool but either they're a few hundred bucks up-front, which is a bit much to start out with, or very expensive to buy piece-meal. We've been learning blender a bit and I'm confident we can create some stuff by ourself but of course that will take a while.
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Feb 5, 2024 09:56
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hark posted:Printed a test print at smaller scale of this mandalorian helmet because a guy I work with said he'd pay me for a full size one. Seemed to be working well with supports, but the top looks pixelated sort of? And on the inside, you can see the difference in the same section. Any ideas what is causing this? Still trying to learn the ins and outs of the settings in orca, but it's been slow going since I can't dedicate as much time as I'd like to with this hobby. Tops and bottoms of domes / sphere shapes are hard. You can lower your layer height but that slows poo poo way down. Bambu (and most other) slicers have adaptive layer height that will help smooth the dome but also print faster on the straight bits.
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Feb 5, 2024 12:18
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Jedi425 posted:Thanks to some luck and a decent tax refund I might be selling off my Neptune 2S and picking up a P1S/AMS combo. How well does the built-in filter and enclosure cut down on the fumes? I plan on having this in my home office, which has a room purifier in it as well. PLA and PETG have been fine, but it might be nice to play with something else like ASA once I get a printer I haven't had to frankenstein into working well. It's just ok, you're still going to smell it. The enclosure isn't entirely sealed like say a Voron. The front door has a pretty big gap in it on the left side and where the poop chute is in the back is basically a big hole for fumes to escape. I would plan on printing something like this if you really want to get rid of all the fumes https://www.printables.com/model/272525-bambu-lab-bentobox-v20-carbon-filter-for-x1c-and-e
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Feb 5, 2024 13:18
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The Eyes Have It posted:Congrats! Canada Post yup, it's worked out ok so far!
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Feb 5, 2024 13:57
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Warbird posted:Noted, thanks to both of you. It's currently at -3.21 and I've been lowering it in increments of .01 or so. I'll find something to print tomorrow and increase that increment to .25 instead. I used to do it in tiny increments, definitely go with larger ones. It’s a much faster process overall to use a larger increment at first and over shoot your target and decrease your increment each time you start calibrating in another direction. Steps like 0.5mm in negative Z each time you test. When you see that you’ve gone too low, you know your range is within that last 0.5mm so start moving in positive Z by 0.1mm. If it takes another round, try by 0.05 back in negative Z. Also, that -3.21mm value is completely specific to your setup and not really attached to a real position in space, just where your limit switches happen to be positioned on your particular gantry. Hopefully that helps save an afternoon and some hair pulling, because I used to be very precious about every single adjustment and drove myself crazy until I got that advice 
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Feb 5, 2024 14:15
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Javid posted:tangential periodic reminder that McMaster-Carr also does this for most of the products on their website. it's not everything but you guys are the worst 
Roundboy fucked around with this message at 14:41 on Feb 5, 2024 |
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Feb 5, 2024 14:37
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I had a classic failure last night I've only read about before. Filament was tangled on the spool, feeder wheel chewed through the filament and it broke outright about halfway through the print. The only negative reviews of the store brand PLA I've been running is related to this issue. Oh well, it was a nearly empty spool and I'm through about 3 kg the stuff by now so I'm not ready to look for a different brand just yet.
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Feb 5, 2024 16:23
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M302 P1 M83 G1 E1 F60 time passes... M92 E92 G1 E1 F60 time passes... M92 E96 G1 E1 F60 time passes... M92 E97 G1 E1 F60 time passes... M500  So how was your morning? cruft fucked around with this message at 16:28 on Feb 5, 2024 |
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Feb 5, 2024 16:25
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 Heads up! Prusa's accepting orders for the MK3.5 upgrade kit. For MK3/3S/3S+ users this means upgrading the board and a few other things to get vastly increased print speed and integrated networking features. Price is $250 and FedEx shipping is suprisingly reasonable.https://www.prusa3d.com/product/original-prusa-i3-mk3s-to-mk3-5-upgrade-kit-2/ smax fucked around with this message at 18:38 on Feb 5, 2024 |
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Feb 5, 2024 18:34
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smax posted:
The Mk4 is a kickass machine. What are the differences between the 3.5, 3.9, and 4? e: oh, there's a chart at https://www.prusa3d.com/en/product/original-prusa-i3-mk3s-to-mk3-5-upgrade-kit-2/
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Feb 5, 2024 18:42
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cruft posted:The Mk4 is a kickass machine. What are the differences between the 3.5, 3.9, and 4? The basic breakdown is: MK3.9 is a MK4 without the new finer Z axis drivers, the MK3.5 is a MK3.9 without the new hotend. The nice thing about a MK3.5 is you should be able to use a Revo (or other aftermarket) hotend, but still get the benefits of input shaping (speed) and onboard networking/administration (PrusaLink). It's also way cheaper than the MK3.9 or MK4, which replace the hotend.
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Feb 5, 2024 19:09
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I noticed my local store carries a Siraya Tech Silicone for creating molds. (https://siraya.tech/products/siraya-tech-silicone-defiant-25) Which is supposed to be designed to make molds off of 3D prints easier, with them being resistant against inhibition, and pop off easily. It's also food grade, so I might give it a spin just to try and make some chocolate molds or something. Has anyone tried it?
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Feb 5, 2024 19:30
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