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hark posted:Currently printing the printable pieces for an MPCNC because I got that tinkering itch again and I wanna learn a new thingy. I've had everything printed for more than a year and all the parts in a box. Hoping I can get to assembly this spring.
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Feb 7, 2024 16:32
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I love being able to import STEP files directly into the slicer. I've been designing some things with up to 8 colors, and if you name the various bodies or components semi-descriptively in your CAD program, those names stay intact and appear on the Objects list in Bambu and Orca. So now instead of dicking around with the limited paint tools, you can just click down through the list of names and hit the number key for whatever color you want that bit to be. It's slick as hell.
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Feb 7, 2024 16:47
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Some Pinko Commie posted:Parasolids are best for accuracy, yeah. But for 99% of 3d printing cases the STEP file is fine. The FBX to OBJ relationship if I'm remembering my time with Blender correctly. Noted.
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Feb 7, 2024 16:57
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hark posted:Currently printing the printable pieces for an MPCNC because I got that tinkering itch again and I wanna learn a new thingy. Don't ever post on social media about it because the original designer is lawsuit happy if anybody deviates from his published specifications. Anybody else remember when they threatened to sue Thomas Sanladerer about it while he was doing a multi-video build series? Some Pinko Commie fucked around with this message at 17:27 on Feb 7, 2024 |
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Feb 7, 2024 17:24
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NewFatMike posted:
Can you give me an example of this? STEP can certainly store quadratic and cubic NURBS surfaces, so as long as your model is constructed out of those surfaces (and I'm pretty sure SolidWorks doesn't even generate higher degree surfaces) it should be a perfect one-to-one representation of what you built. I suspect the format also can store fourth order and higher degree NURBS, but I haven't explicitly checked for that.
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Feb 7, 2024 17:40
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Some Pinko Commie posted:Don't ever post on social media about it because the original designer is lawsuit happy if anybody deviates from his published specifications. I never heard about this. There's a write-up on Thomas's website about how he designed a compatible part and then the MPCNC guy thought it was a derivative work because it was interoperable with his parts.
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Feb 7, 2024 17:53
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Some Pinko Commie posted:Don't ever post on social media about it because the original designer is lawsuit happy if anybody deviates from his published specifications. Lmao drat I should start designing similar interchangeable parts just to gently caress with him and then post them anonymously.
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Feb 7, 2024 18:00
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WhiteHowler posted:I've been upgrading some of my board game components with 3D printed components, and generally it's gone really well so far. The layer shift on my P1P during AMS filament swaps is happening again with a different model. When I had the problem with the previous model, using a layer-based filament change rather than using BambuStudio's painting mode fixed it. No luck this time. It is the weirdest drat thing. My AMS is set up with the following rolls, all IIIDmax PLA+ except the silver is Prusament PLA. All are set to "Generic PLA" in the slicer. Bay 1: Orange Bay 2: Brown Bay 3: Silver Bay 4: Black The intended color scheme is a brown base with orange arrows. Every time the orange layer is offset ~2 mm to the front-right. It's a very consistent offset and happens whether I have one or many copies of the model printing at once. I've tried rotating the model, and the offset is always to the front-right of the plate. The sliced version in BambuStudio displays correctly.  From left to right in the photo. No settings were changed other than setting the base filament, then putting in a filament swap at the same layer: 1. Brown (2) base, orange (1) arrows. Layer shift. 2. Black (4) base, silver (3) arrows. Prints perfectly. 3. Black (4) base, orange (1) arrows. Layer shift. 4. Brown (2) base, silver (3) arrows. Prints perfectly. Hmm... So the problem could be something with filament changing to bay 1. I swapped bays 1 and 3 to put silver in 1, orange in 3. 5. Brown (2) base, orange (3) arrows. Layer shift.  I... don't know what to do here. This only happens with certain models. Rotating them, printing rafts, etc. does not seem to change the outcome. I don't understand why two subsequent prints using the same AMS bays (with swapped filament rolls) would give different results. Any ideas? I've googled this to death, and while others have had layer shift issues, nobody seems to be having quite this issue. WhiteHowler fucked around with this message at 21:20 on Feb 7, 2024 |
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Feb 7, 2024 21:17
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WhiteHowler posted:Any ideas? I've googled this to death, and while others have had layer shift issues, nobody seems to be having quite this issue. What did you do to get cursed like this? Were you very rude to an old crone peddling filament door to door? Anyhow, you could try OrcaSlicer, just to see if a change in environment solves this bizarre bug. You'll be able to import your filament settings and etc, so it won't be much hassle to try atleast. Also contact bambu about it, might be an issue with your machine.
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Feb 7, 2024 22:14
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It's a long shot, but do you have any packing foam or anything else obstructing the rails that's bumping the print head when it does a color change?
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Feb 7, 2024 22:15
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My first guess would also be an obstruction or binding on that axis. The P1P might not detect missed steps? Edit: What's weird is it's not doing this without filaments change, right? Is your filament change G-code stock?
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Feb 7, 2024 22:17
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post your setups  dug out a neptune 3 i had just sitting around doing nothing and put it back to work after a bit of a tune up, still a great printer, just funny getting used to how slow it is again +1 p1p i took down to to do some maintenance on, and +1 p1p i just bought and is on the way my resin setup is a disaster currently so no pics of that
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Feb 7, 2024 22:33
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SubNat posted:What did you do to get cursed like this? Were you very rude to an old crone peddling filament door to door? I'll give OrcaSlicer a shot, but does it support the Bambu AMS? I'm wondering if BambuStudio is messing up the Gcode but still rendering it correctly in the UI? The Chairman posted:It's a long shot, but do you have any packing foam or anything else obstructing the rails that's bumping the print head when it does a color change? I don't see any obstructions. I've done hundreds of prints with color changes across (as far as I know) all of the AMS bays. It's only certain specific models, especially small ones like this, that experience a layer shift. If I immediately switch to another model, even using the same color combinations, it works fine. Bondematt posted:My first guess would also be an obstruction or binding on that axis. It would be both the X and Y axis, and it's very consistent when it happens. Everything is shifted about 2mm to the front-right. I've done hundreds of prints successfully, including color-changing runs. For example, I did five plates of these tokens from the same model set yesterday, with no layer shifting:  quote:Edit: What's weird is it's not doing this without filaments change, right? Is your filament change G-code stock? Yep! Single-filament printing never has any layer shifts; it's only during filament changes on specific models. As far as I know the change is G-code stock -- in BambuStudio I'm clicking on the layer bar, choosing "Change Filament", and choosing a bay from the AMS. Most of my settings are defaults -- I turn off the prime tower (not needed for simple height-based color changes) and change the infill pattern to Gyroid or Adaptive Cubic, though none of the infill selections seem to affect this issue. I'll give Bambu support a try, but from what I've seen I'll keep my expectations low. I was hoping someone here might have seen and resolved something like this before. Edit: Here's how it renders in BambuStudio after I slice the model. 
WhiteHowler fucked around with this message at 22:54 on Feb 7, 2024 |
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Feb 7, 2024 22:50
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Orca does support AMS. Does it change if you do different layer heights or decrease max acceleration?
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Feb 7, 2024 22:53
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well, lychee way overdid the auto-supports and it was a pain to remove them all, but at least i'm back to printing things and not garbage. I guess I just need to get a better sense for manual supports? Seems like a few heavy/medium to anchor a print, then medium/light on islands? Deviant fucked around with this message at 23:03 on Feb 7, 2024 |
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Feb 7, 2024 23:00
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WhiteHowler posted:I'll give OrcaSlicer a shot, but does it support the Bambu AMS? ] I'm hoping it's just something weird with Bambu Slicer only, but what a strange issue. Orca supports the AMS. It's basically a better Bambu slicer. When it goes to cut the filament in the front of the machine, does it seem to get hung up at all? That's the only spot it wouldn't be traversing if it was single color.
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Feb 7, 2024 23:26
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mewse posted:I never heard about this. There's a write-up on Thomas's website about how he designed a compatible part and then the MPCNC guy thought it was a derivative work because it was interoperable with his parts. Every now and again there's someone somewhere on the net who gets all HOW DARE U when you, y'know, like... share a link to their stuff, or something. Some people are just loving weird.
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Feb 8, 2024 00:04
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Bondematt posted:I'm hoping it's just something weird with Bambu Slicer only, but what a strange issue. Then I moved it back down one layer (so a layer higher than original), and that worked too. Moved it one more down (to the original), and... layer shift. So there's something strange going on at certain layers. Maybe it's the drastic change between a wide level and a much narrower level? No idea. I'll try some of the other suggestions given here, but in the meantime I'm going to run a plate of several tokens and see if they print okay. Thanks everyone for the ideas! WhiteHowler fucked around with this message at 01:11 on Feb 8, 2024 |
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Feb 8, 2024 00:08
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Sagebrush posted:Can you give me an example of this? STEP can certainly store quadratic and cubic NURBS surfaces, so as long as your model is constructed out of those surfaces (and I'm pretty sure SolidWorks doesn't even generate higher degree surfaces) it should be a perfect one-to-one representation of what you built. I can’t share the file because it’s customer data, but a customer asked me for a CAM demo using files he created in SOLIDWORKS, and I did the demo in CAMWorks running under SOLIDWORKS. Well I had my rear end handed to me because this assembly would NOT behave correctly. It was during the demo that I realized that the STEP assembly was bad because two faces designed-as-planar in SW were a *tiny* bit off from one another in the STEP file. Since they weren’t coplanar by millionths, I couldn’t get the CAM software to treat it correctly. Those weren’t even particularly crazy files, just something went weird in the STEP export. It happens enough that bad STEP files are a pretty well known phenomenon, I’m kind of surprised by your surprise. E: I should say that I do not believe this is a limitation of STEP files’ capabilities to render particular kinds of data, I believe these corruptions happen in the translation process from the native filetype to STEP. NewFatMike fucked around with this message at 01:10 on Feb 8, 2024 |
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Feb 8, 2024 01:03
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The Eyes Have It posted:Every now and again there's someone somewhere on the net who gets all HOW DARE U when you, y'know, like... share a link to their stuff, or something. Some people are just loving weird. I'm a big fan of Ryan at V1 Engineering (the creator). At the time of the MPCNC video he was really concerned with losing control of his IP (MPCNC was not open source) and thus his income. He's chilled out a lot with the licensing of his later machines, which are fantastic designs. The forum is super active and has a great remix culture. I have a working Lowrider 2 which has actually made me money, and have the parts printed to upgrade to a LR3 
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Feb 8, 2024 01:14
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I'm glad to hear that.
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Feb 8, 2024 01:51
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Yeah that's a relief and understandable. I plan to build a lowrider once my garage remodel is done this summer and I have a place to put it.
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Feb 8, 2024 01:58
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NewFatMike posted:I can’t share the file because it’s customer data, but a customer asked me for a CAM demo using files he created in SOLIDWORKS, and I did the demo in CAMWorks running under SOLIDWORKS. Camworks is also a gigantic flaming piece of poo poo, though. Edit: Just my opinion that I've ranted about at length in the past. Some Pinko Commie fucked around with this message at 02:12 on Feb 8, 2024 |
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Feb 8, 2024 02:06
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Some Pinko Commie posted:Camworks is also a gigantic flaming piece of poo poo, though. The SOLIDWORKS measure tool is what measured it. That was just a recent example from where I encountered this and how.
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Feb 8, 2024 02:12
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I'm going Primo. Lowrider looks like fun, but I'm looking for relatively stationary.
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Feb 8, 2024 03:17
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Some Pinko Commie posted:
Yeah, I was looking to build one around the same time and promptly dropped it after that.
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Feb 8, 2024 03:30
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Deviant posted:well, lychee way overdid the auto-supports and it was a pain to remove them all, but at least i'm back to printing things and not garbage. I get away with lychee auto supports most of the time. Light supports low density, things like spears can gently caress up occasionally, but you'll learn what the troublespots are and can touch things up most of the time
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Feb 8, 2024 05:08
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I have a question about potentially updating printers later this year, I currently have a neptune 3 pro in a Ikea enclosure that I upgraded the fans off. The noise level is generally fine with the enclosure closed, its under my wife's desk and she's not bothered by it. How does a for example P1S compare to it? I know it's supposedly very loud, but it already has an enclosure so how loud is it really? It would potentially fit into the enclosure but only without the AMS, which honestly seems loike a no brainer at this point. I guess what I'm asking is does a P1S or any of the other bambu printers work as a living room printer or are they just too loud?
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Feb 8, 2024 06:20
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Son of Rodney posted:How does a for example P1S compare to it? I know it's supposedly very loud, but it already has an enclosure so how loud is it really? It would potentially fit into the enclosure but only without the AMS, which honestly seems loike a no brainer at this point. A recent firmware update drastically reduced the motor noise of the P1 series. Previously it was loud enough to hear a couple of rooms away when it really got going. Now it's a low-level hum. Unfortunately, the Bambu fans are pretty loud. I can't hear them through a closed door, but I wouldn't want to try to watch TV or listen to music in the same room as an active print. My P1P doesn't have an enclosure, but the fans on an enclosed printer likely have to run faster, so I don't know how much it will help with noise. Also one thing to consider: You don't want to share living space with some of the filaments you may decide to print with. PLA and PETG should be safe-ish, but ABS in particular needs ventilation, and you shouldn't hang around the fumes (no, the enclosure isn't sufficient protection). Other filament types have varying levels of toxicity.
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Feb 8, 2024 06:43
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WhiteHowler posted:A recent firmware update drastically reduced the motor noise of the P1 series. Previously it was loud enough to hear a couple of rooms away when it really got going. Now it's a low-level hum. Hm, sounds like I'd need at least another enclosure, too bad. Yeah I did a bit of research on emissions from 3d printers a bit ago, but I only print pla, some tpu and want to try petg at some point. Currently I'm running my printer in the enclosure with an additional hepa and carbon filter, which my research at least claims is sufficient. Stuff with more issues like abs is a no go in this apartment at least. I was under the impression the p1s comes with a filter, but turns out to only be a carbon filter? Seems like a bigger enclosure with an additional air purifier is still the way to go.
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Feb 8, 2024 06:55
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Son of Rodney posted:Hm, sounds like I'd need at least another enclosure, too bad. Good job doing the research on emissions. I've read about people printing unfiltered ABS in their bedroom  , so it never hurts to bring it up.I'm honestly not sure on the P1S filter. I thought about getting the upgrade kit for my P1P, but I'm loving this hobby so much that I'll probably go to an X-series next time they release a new model.
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Feb 8, 2024 07:12
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NewFatMike posted:I can’t share the file because it’s customer data, but a customer asked me for a CAM demo using files he created in SOLIDWORKS, and I did the demo in CAMWorks running under SOLIDWORKS. Ah, okay. If it's two flat faces that are off by millionths of an inch, then yes, you're correct in your edit -- that's not a STEP format thing but rather an issue in the SolidWorks STEP importer/exporter, or with the software's NURBS tolerances. The file format is certainly able to store and represent two coplanar faces. In Rhino you can adjust the tolerance on a per-file basis for what is considered coincident/coplanar etc, because thanks to floating point math, a pair of NURBS surface edges are never (aside from the most trivial cases) exactly coincident at every point. There's always a decision being made behind the scenes about whether two points are close enough to be treated as one. Not sure if Solidworks gives you manual control over that but maybe something to look into. Or if you're stuck with Solidworks then yeah I guess work around it by using the Parasolid files. 
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Feb 8, 2024 08:45
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For filtering you can always make a bento box, it has both hepa and carbon chambers. It can also be wireless powered for a Bambu so you don't have to pierce the enclosure.
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Feb 8, 2024 11:11
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Even though the build is pretty trivial, if you just plain don't feel like DIY-ing a Bento Box, Voxel also sells a complete kit (in the US) as well as replacement charcoal and filters. https://voxelpla.com/products/bento-box
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Feb 8, 2024 12:32
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Acid Reflux posted:Even though the build is pretty trivial, if you just plain don't feel like DIY-ing a Bento Box, Voxel also sells a complete kit (in the US) as well as replacement charcoal and filters. Yeah I bought it.. since it was like $30 and then I didn't need to source a power supply, fans, heat inserts, carbon and filters.... It all came as a thing and just needed a small bit of soldering and screwing. Would recommend just buying
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Feb 8, 2024 14:32
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man, cranked this neptune 3 up to 160% speed and its just zoomin along with a .6 nozzle, I'm dumb for not having this thing running the whole time
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Feb 8, 2024 16:42
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w00tmonger posted:I get away with lychee auto supports most of the time. Light supports low density, things like spears can gently caress up occasionally, but you'll learn what the troublespots are and can touch things up most of the time I have to learn to scale up though, typically I'm printing single objects that push the limits of the resin print bed. (Cosplay props, wearables, etc.)
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Feb 8, 2024 17:04
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queeb posted:man, cranked this neptune 3 up to 160% speed and its just zoomin along with a .6 nozzle, I'm dumb for not having this thing running the whole time I used to run mine at 100mm/sec pretty regularly even with a 0.4 nozzle, they're really quite nice little machines. I'm still recommending the 3 Pro to friends who aren't looking to spend a fortune on their first printer.
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Feb 8, 2024 19:21
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Anyone look at a dual gantry printer before? I stumbled into this voron 0.2 mod and it seems like a really elegant solution for running multiple filaments on a printer without needing to deal with the complexity of a tool changer, or the extra weight of an idex system. https://github.com/zruncho3d/DuelingZero I was already looking for an excuse to build another baby voron, and something like this feels like it would scratch that itch...
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Feb 9, 2024 07:02
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forgot i bought 100% of the stuff i need to do copper electroplating + electroforming on non-conductive substrates like 3d prints, gonna fire up the bench power supply this weekend. 1) anybody have any good resources for electroplating onto prints? resin prints, and acid copper plating, specifically. I have graphite powder + acrylic paint i'll use as a starting point for the conductive primer but I might get that nice MG chemicals nickel spray paint if the graphite paint is lacklustre. 2) what should I print for test parts to plate over. definitely gonna do some ameralabs city test parts, because of all the fine detail and textures and how they'll influence the final plating result. also some go/no-go ring-rod gauge parts, printed off our best dental printer that's bang-on and very crisp, because I wanna see how plating thickness and plating time impacts toleranced close running fits and the like, because plated parts are great for mechanical assemblies due to the hard-wearing, low-friction facing the parts suddenly have. possibly i will also plate over something that will look wicked sick in copper, but idk what that is yet e: other thoughts for test prints: - functional tool models that could become practical for use on normal printed parts with a heavy plating applied. i'm thinking a straight reamer, for reaming undersized printed holes more accurately than you get with a twist drill bit. or drill jigs, to extend their lifespan significantly when used with steel tooling -something that doesn't work properly with as-printed resin, like gear assemblies that suffer badly from wear and friction, pump drills that just bind even if you smooth and oil all the working surfaces, etc - you can make small RF antennas of almost arbitrary detail/precision this way. I have no application for this, but if a design fell into my lap i'd prolly take a crack at it. -a mold for casting electroforming mandrel alloy into, which i can plate over, and then melt the alloy out of, to produce a hollow copper shell of essentially any geometry that I can form the inital mandrel into. i have all the stuff to do this, both the bismuth-tin mandrel low-melting alloy as well as the high-temp resin needed to directly print reusable multi-part molds that can handle the alloy at pouring temp. this one has a lot of moving parts but you can go some very cool places with it, stuff like making very small and precisely-formed heat pipes, tiny high-efficiency flash boilers for tiny steam-propelled boats and the like, or hard-wearing short/medium-run sheet metal forming dies, when a mold face is electroformed and then backfilled with the alloy or a steel-filled epoxy. Anything that constitutes a hollow copper vessel can be made this way, with geometries you can't do with any other technique to boot. Lots of very specific and very weird but cool applications. Could always just design a tiny stoppered bottle/flask and try electroforming that, take full advantage of the detail I could manage for decorative purposes. Ambrose Burnside fucked around with this message at 07:48 on Feb 9, 2024 |
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Feb 9, 2024 07:19
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