Register a SA Forums Account here!
JOINING THE SA FORUMS WILL REMOVE THIS BIG AD, THE ANNOYING UNDERLINED ADS, AND STUPID INTERSTITIAL ADS!!!

You can: log in, read the tech support FAQ, or request your lost password. This dumb message (and those ads) will appear on every screen until you register! Get rid of this crap by registering your own SA Forums Account and joining roughly 150,000 Goons, for the one-time price of $9.95! We charge money because it costs us money per month for bills, and since we don't believe in showing ads to our users, we try to make the money back through forum registrations.
 
  • Post
  • Reply
Meow Meow Meow
Nov 13, 2010

Deteriorata posted:

Everything is a hammer, actually.

There's a wrench called a miner's wrench that is an adjustable wrench with a hammer head on it. Useful because if you're underground and something won't turn, smashing it with a hammer often helps.


https://www.grainger.ca/en/product/WRENCH-MINERS%2C-HAMMER-HEAD/p/RASRS12H

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

devicenull
May 30, 2007

Grimey Drawer

Meow Meow Meow posted:

There's a wrench called a miner's wrench that is an adjustable wrench with a hammer head on it. Useful because if you're underground and something won't turn, smashing it with a hammer often helps.


https://www.grainger.ca/en/product/WRENCH-MINERS%2C-HAMMER-HEAD/p/RASRS12H

Fixed

Darchangel
Feb 12, 2009

Tell him about the blower!


Deteriorata posted:

Everything is a hammer, actually.

Everthing has a hammer mode, anyway, at least once.

withak
Jan 15, 2003


Fun Shoe

wesleywillis posted:

Yeah I've used screwdriver handles for hammers before. It's legit.

Screwdriver handles are for hammering paint can lids closed.

TooMuchAbstraction
Oct 14, 2012

I spent four years making
Waves of Steel
Hell yes I'm going to turn my avatar into an ad for it.
Fun Shoe
I used my expensive 4kwh battery pack as a hammer, reflexively, and then immediately thought "what the gently caress am I doing?!" I even had a hammer close by, I just already had my driver in my hand.

Xenix
Feb 21, 2003
I have a weather station mounted via a gable mount and a 10 foot stick of EMT conduit. It has worked really well for me except when it's windy. The rocker cup that measures rainfall does a good job except when it's windy. I'd like to add some guy wires to keep the thing from shaking so hard, like it did in the storm this past weekend (it thinks there was almost 5 inches of rain, while my little test tube style rain gauge says more like 0.9 inches).

I have a comp shingle roof that was installed between 15 and 23 years ago. A roofing inspector 4 years ago said it was in great shape and didn't need any repairs. I have good reason to believe it is a modern roof with plywood sheathing rather than the original paneling of like 2x6s that my neighbors have, as a previous HO increased the pitch of the roof in the 2000s.

If I am looking at the gable from the neighboring yard, I have a lot of roof to the right of the ridge and only about 4 feet of roof to the left of the ridge. I also have a ridge vent. Because this is at the end of the roof, I think two of the wires will need to be 180 degrees from each other (in both directions along the edge of the roof) and the third 90 degrees from each of those (along the ridge).

I know very little about roofing. What are my options for attaching a trio of guy wires to my roof and waterproofing the penetrations?

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


Xenix posted:

I have a weather station mounted via a gable mount and a 10 foot stick of EMT conduit. It has worked really well for me except when it's windy. The rocker cup that measures rainfall does a good job except when it's windy. I'd like to add some guy wires to keep the thing from shaking so hard, like it did in the storm this past weekend (it thinks there was almost 5 inches of rain, while my little test tube style rain gauge says more like 0.9 inches).

I have a comp shingle roof that was installed between 15 and 23 years ago. A roofing inspector 4 years ago said it was in great shape and didn't need any repairs. I have good reason to believe it is a modern roof with plywood sheathing rather than the original paneling of like 2x6s that my neighbors have, as a previous HO increased the pitch of the roof in the 2000s.

If I am looking at the gable from the neighboring yard, I have a lot of roof to the right of the ridge and only about 4 feet of roof to the left of the ridge. I also have a ridge vent. Because this is at the end of the roof, I think two of the wires will need to be 180 degrees from each other (in both directions along the edge of the roof) and the third 90 degrees from each of those (along the ridge).

I know very little about roofing. What are my options for attaching a trio of guy wires to my roof and waterproofing the penetrations?

Is it possible to attach the guy wires to something besides the roof? Can they attach to some fascia on the eaves, or to some little brackets attached to the fascia that stick up above the roofline but don't penetrate the roof? There are plenty of okay ways to penetrate a roof, but the best is to not do it if you don't just have to.

Xenix
Feb 21, 2003

Kaiser Schnitzel posted:

Is it possible to attach the guy wires to something besides the roof? Can they attach to some fascia on the eaves, or to some little brackets attached to the fascia that stick up above the roofline but don't penetrate the roof? There are plenty of okay ways to penetrate a roof, but the best is to not do it if you don't just have to.

Probably, yes. I'd prefer to have restraint in more than one direction, but I'm wary about attaching anything to the ridge vent. I seem to recall it's just plastic from when I mounted this thing, but that was almost 2 years ago.

TooMuchAbstraction
Oct 14, 2012

I spent four years making
Waves of Steel
Hell yes I'm going to turn my avatar into an ad for it.
Fun Shoe
I accidentally ran 1 load of clothes in the dryer without the lint trap installed. I'm guessing the main result of this is just that I'll need to clear the duct a little sooner?

Fruits of the sea
Dec 1, 2010

Renovating a smoker's apartment from the 70's. Almost done throwing out everythinig that can be physically removed, bar the walls (stripped of wallpaper that was painted over), and hardwood floors. Ceilings are going to be scrubbed 2-3 times, I think the best combo we've found so far is a first round of kitchen degreaser followed by mixing a bit of ammonia and a lot of floor soap in water for the 2nd and 3rd washes.

Anything else I can or should do to get rid of the tobacco stench? Follow-up question - is the above cleaning regimen sufficient for preventing tar bleeding through primer + 2 coats of paint?

Fruits of the sea fucked around with this message at 17:25 on Feb 7, 2024

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Fruits of the sea posted:

Renovating a smoker's apartment from the 70's. Almost done throwing out everythinig that can be physically removed, bar the walls (stripped of wallpaper that was painted over), and hardwood floors. Ceilings are going to be scrubbed 2-3 times, I think the best combo we've found so far is a first round of kitchen degreaser followed by mixing a bit of ammonia and a lot of floor soap in water for the 2nd and 3rd washes.

Hot water and TSP.

Fruits of the sea posted:

Anything else I can or should do to get rid of the tobacco stench?

Ozone

Fruits of the sea posted:

Follow-up question - is the above cleaning regimen sufficient for preventing tar bleeding through primer + 2 coats of paint?

Probably, especially if you use a high quality blocking primer like Kilz.

Fruits of the sea
Dec 1, 2010

Much appreciated!

Yeah, we’re going to specify that the primer is for a smoker’s apartment when we go to the paint store.

I’ll see if our budget can stretch to buying an ozone purifier, or renting one, if that’s a possibility.

What is TSP?

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009


Trisodium Phosphate. You'll find it at the paint store. It's the standard thing to use for wall prep before painting.

Back in the 80s when cleaners actually worked well it's because they all had TSP in them. Then we figure out it basically poisons tshe water table and shouldn't be in absolutely everything. This kind of wall cleaning is exactly what it excels at and why it's still avilable for these specific use cases.

Final Blog Entry
Jun 23, 2006

"Love us with money or we'll hate you with hammers!"
You'll want an oil based blocking primer at a minimum, such as Kilz Original. Preferably though, a shellac primer like Zinsser BIN. Both are going to be high odor and high VOC, especially the shellac (it's alcohol based). You'll want proper respirators and lots of ventilation. Any waterbased primer will likely be a waste of time and money.

Fruits of the sea
Dec 1, 2010

Interesting. From a brief glance, it might not be available over the counter in my EU country, bar from homebrewing suppliers. I'll look into it. The MSDS isn't as terrifying as I thought it would be after your description.

Final Blog Entry posted:

You'll want an oil based blocking primer at a minimum, such as Kilz Original. Preferably though, a shellac primer like Zinsser BIN. Both are going to be high odor and high VOC, especially the shellac (it's alcohol based). You'll want proper respirators and lots of ventilation. Any waterbased primer will likely be a waste of time and money.

thanks for the details!

The place is gonna be amazing, got a month and a half to work on it so it should be doable

Fruits of the sea fucked around with this message at 18:00 on Feb 7, 2024

wesleywillis
Dec 30, 2016

SUCK A MALE CAMEL'S DICK WITH MIRACLE WHIP!!
I can't remember what, but Trisodium Phosphate is in the ingredients list for things we eat or drink. I swear I've seen it in a couple things because when I saw it I was all like "what the fuckin poo poo"?

Fruits of the sea
Dec 1, 2010

That sure doesn't sound healthy. I said the msds wasn't terrifying, but that was just in terms of protective gear and exposure protocol. Takes 2mg to kill a rat, so I don't think it's something we should be eating :v:

e: I'm guessing it's used for some specific brewing process but doesn't remain in the drink, IIRC there's some toxic alcohols and stuff created that are removed somehow

Fruits of the sea fucked around with this message at 18:34 on Feb 7, 2024

PainterofCrap
Oct 17, 2002

hey bebe



It's possible it could be available to brewers as a sterilizing agent.

One box can be a lifetime supply.

The instructions here recommend wearing rubber gloves & eyepro when wiping it on. I've used it without gloves a couple times, exposed for no more than an hour - without any noticeable effect. But that's me.

Dr. Lunchables
Dec 27, 2012

IRL DEBUFFED KOBOLD



Is there a budgetary reason why you’re not just stripping the drywall and rehanging it? I’d start there for ease of use if it’s monetarily feasible. Same deal with the ceiling.

Deteriorata
Feb 6, 2005

Fruits of the sea posted:

That sure doesn't sound healthy. I said the msds wasn't terrifying, but that was just in terms of protective gear and exposure protocol. Takes 2mg to kill a rat, so I don't think it's something we should be eating :v:

e: I'm guessing it's used for some specific brewing process but doesn't remain in the drink, IIRC there's some toxic alcohols and stuff created that are removed somehow

It's main toxicity is due to its alkalinity. Otherwise it's just phosphate, which is quite harmless. For example, phosphoric acid is an ingredient in Coca Cola and many other beverages.

yippee cahier
Mar 28, 2005

Deteriorata posted:

It's main toxicity is due to its alkalinity. Otherwise it's just phosphate, which is quite harmless. For example, phosphoric acid is an ingredient in Coca Cola and many other beverages.

Phosphates can cause algae blooms which will kill off other life in bodies of water.

Deteriorata
Feb 6, 2005

yippee cahier posted:

Phosphates can cause algae blooms which will kill off other life in bodies of water.

Yes, but that's because the phosphate itself is the opposite of toxic.

It can cause environmental damage because it's fertilizer.

Fruits of the sea
Dec 1, 2010

Dr. Lunchables posted:

Is there a budgetary reason why you’re not just stripping the drywall and rehanging it? I’d start there for ease of use if it’s monetarily feasible. Same deal with the ceiling.

Aesthetic choice, don’t like wallpaper! Misunderstood. It's plaster and stucco. Yeah, we don't have the cash to totally replace the walls.

This is almost worthy of its own thread - lock to the front door broke. Had to call a locksmith to get in. Turns out it was installed in ‘77 and at some point was crudely repaired with some random screws and shims

edit for Powerwash Simulator enthusiasts. Includes bonus wall damage:

Fruits of the sea fucked around with this message at 17:59 on Feb 8, 2024

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006

Fruits of the sea posted:

Yeah, we’re going to specify that the primer is for a smoker’s apartment when we go to the paint store.

I’ll see if our budget can stretch to buying an ozone purifier, or renting one, if that’s a possibility.

You want to rent an ozone machine, you only need it for a few days. Note that anything worth using you shouldn't be in the apartment when it runs, but do run the HVAC in fan-only mode while it's running. Turn that on, seal up the place, open all the drawers, cabinets, closets, doors, everything, turn it on, then come back 24hrs later. Open the windows, turn off the ozone machine, and give it an hour to recycle the air. Run it in your car for an hour too all sealed up.

For the primer, consider 2 coats. Sure it should work with one, but you're not a painter by trade. You have to get everything. Remember inside closets, ceilings, ceilings in the closet, you get the idea.


PainterofCrap posted:

I've used it without gloves a couple times, exposed for no more than an hour - without any noticeable effect. But that's me.

Was this before or after Oct 16, 2002? :thunk:

C-Euro
Mar 20, 2010

:science:
Soiled Meat
The water dispenser in my refrigerator is suddenly running at a reduced rate, with a menacing tapping noise coming from behind it when it's dispensing water. I'd like to pull the unit out of its alcove to check the supply line for problems, but fridges are very heavy and I don't know what the connections look like in the back. Advice for getting my fridge out from the wall enough to get a look behind it?

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006
You gotta pull it out. It had to have enough slack to install it so it should slide out fine. Spin the feet up and know how to turn off the water to your home.

The March Hare
Oct 15, 2006

Je rêve d'un
Wayne's World 3
Buglord
More than once in my life I've needed some specific bracket or fastener or whatever that I can imagine in my head but cannot for the life of me google or find on mcmaster's website or whatever. Is anyone aware of a book or something that just has like drawings of brackets (or whatever) and their names?

withak
Jan 15, 2003


Fun Shoe
McMaster has a print catalog that is great for this if you have access to one. It is the size of a bible, I think you have to spend a few thousand a year before they will send you one.

The March Hare
Oct 15, 2006

Je rêve d'un
Wayne's World 3
Buglord

withak posted:

McMaster has a print catalog that is great for this if you have access to one. It is the size of a bible, I think you have to spend a few thousand a year before they will send you one.

What if you need something so esoteric that McMaster does not carry it? Or do they carry things that are not on their website?

withak
Jan 15, 2003


Fun Shoe
I think in that scenario you are fabricating it yourself.

The March Hare
Oct 15, 2006

Je rêve d'un
Wayne's World 3
Buglord

withak posted:

I think in that scenario you are fabricating it yourself.

That is what I've ended up doing in the past, but it always feels like if I just knew the name of some specific bracket shape then maybe I could find someone somewhere selling it :'(.

C-Euro
Mar 20, 2010

:science:
Soiled Meat

H110Hawk posted:

You gotta pull it out. It had to have enough slack to install it so it should slide out fine. Spin the feet up and know how to turn off the water to your home.

I was planning to pull it out! But also I have no idea what this means. Not sure that I can raise the feet on the fridge too much beyond leveling adjustments?

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

C-Euro posted:

I was planning to pull it out! But also I have no idea what this means. Not sure that I can raise the feet on the fridge too much beyond leveling adjustments?

The setup on many refrigerators is a set of wheels/rollers and then a set of round rubber feet on a threaded rod. This rod threads into the bottom of the fridge. The intenton is to set it in place and then "unscrew" the feet so they are touching the floor and taking the load off of at least the front rollers and also to use them for leveling.

What's being suggestd is to get under there and screw the feet back in (so turn them clockwise). Often times they have wrench flats on the bottom to hepl with this. We're talking about these:

jetz0r
May 10, 2003

Tomorrow, our nation will sit on the throne of the world. This is not a figment of the imagination, but a fact. Tomorrow we will lead the world, Allah willing.



If you need to buy those from McMaster, or Grainger, they're called leveling feet or leveling mounts.

Beef Of Ages
Jan 11, 2003

Your dumb is leaking.
I recently made a chair mat out of 3/4" plywood for my office because I have carpet in my office and plastic chair mats suck on carpet. It works great, but I'm wondering if there is something I can seal the plywood with that can withstand my goon rear end rolling around on it in my office chair and still be cleanable and whatnot. My first thought was polyurethane but that seems like it might not be tough enough. Does anyone have a better idea?

TooMuchAbstraction
Oct 14, 2012

I spent four years making
Waves of Steel
Hell yes I'm going to turn my avatar into an ad for it.
Fun Shoe

Beef Of Ages posted:

I recently made a chair mat out of 3/4" plywood for my office because I have carpet in my office and plastic chair mats suck on carpet. It works great, but I'm wondering if there is something I can seal the plywood with that can withstand my goon rear end rolling around on it in my office chair and still be cleanable and whatnot. My first thought was polyurethane but that seems like it might not be tough enough. Does anyone have a better idea?

Even commercial finished floor products can't stand up to office chairs rolling around. Put a plastic mat down on top of your plywood.

Beef Of Ages
Jan 11, 2003

Your dumb is leaking.

TooMuchAbstraction posted:

Even commercial finished floor products can't stand up to office chairs rolling around. Put a plastic mat down on top of your plywood.

:hmmyes:

tetrapyloctomy
Feb 18, 2003

Okay -- you talk WAY too fast.
Nap Ghost
He's not wrong. You want the protective layer to be something that you easily can replace, and the best thing here is just ... a plastic chair mat or something similar.

withak
Jan 15, 2003


Fun Shoe
Ablative floor surfaces are best for office chairs.

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

mutata
Mar 1, 2003

Get better casters for your chair.

  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
  • Post
  • Reply