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Shooting Blanks posted:Not sure if this is the best thread for this question, but: A big vinyl decal of an owl.
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Feb 16, 2024 16:35
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| # ? May 29, 2024 13:33 |
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Dr. Lunchables posted:e: in general I recommend against front loaders due to the higher amount of cleaning necessary, as well as the possibility of water leaks being much higher. When’s the last time you cleaned your washer or dryer? I haven't cleaned my front load LG washer ever. The only people who seem to have issues with this are people who use the wrong (non HE) detergents, too much detergent, lots of softener and no bleach ever. My last load of a run is almost always whites. Hot water with bleach. That's sufficient cleaning for any front load washer I've ever used. And no, I don't leave the door open either.
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Feb 16, 2024 17:31
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Yeah, I wasn’t asking you, but rather in a rhetorical sense. I clean mine, but I know other people have never considered it. The gasket on front loaders presents a great opportunity for mold growth if you don’t clean it.
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Feb 16, 2024 17:51
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Dr. Lunchables posted:Yeah, I wasn’t asking you, but rather in a rhetorical sense. I clean mine, but I know other people have never considered it. The gasket on front loaders presents a great opportunity for mold growth if you don’t clean it. I'm currently struggling with that in my new house! Previous owner may not have ever bothered to clean it so the gasket is totally shot through with mold and I'm about ready to throw in the towel on cleaning this mother.
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Feb 16, 2024 17:53
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Arrath posted:I'm currently struggling with that in my new house! Previous owner may not have ever bothered to clean it so the gasket is totally shot through with mold and I'm about ready to throw in the towel on cleaning this mother. Yes. Most people also don’t know that washers have filters. I have pictures.
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Feb 16, 2024 18:11
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Dr. Lunchables posted:Yeah, I wasn’t asking you, but rather in a rhetorical sense. I clean mine, but I know other people have never considered it. The gasket on front loaders presents a great opportunity for mold growth if you don’t clean it. My point is I don't clean it and don't have any mold because my usage pattern doesn't cause that problem. I've suggested this type of usage to multiple people who also now no longer have issues with a moldy gasket/needing to leave their door open when they're not using it. I think it's 90% too much detergent/softener and 10% some people never using really hot water. The bleach definitely helps too. Arrath posted:I'm currently struggling with that in my new house! Previous owner may not have ever bothered to clean it so the gasket is totally shot through with mold and I'm about ready to throw in the towel on cleaning this mother. Once it starts eating away at the gasket its time to replace it. The gasket is supposed to be smooth so it dries quickly and evenly. Now that yours is pockmarked with craters it doesn't matter how clean you get it, it's a perfect mold growing environment. appliancepartspros.com has been my go-to for tracking down diagrams and part numbers. Then put the part number in google to see who has it for how much. Lots of times they have the best price too, but definitely not always.
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Feb 16, 2024 18:14
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Motronic posted:
Thanks! I'll give them a look.
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Feb 16, 2024 20:00
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Appliance chat reminded me that I didn't post my project form 2 weeks ago. 14 year old frigidaire double wall oven (electric). Top one stopped working. Can't get to anything from the front other than the elements and the temp probes. So i threw a $13 temp probe at it. Nope. Then I had to pull it out of the wall so I spent an hour poking around with the wiring diagram and everything was testing fine except for the power coming from the most expensive part of the unit: the central computer/relay board. $650, although i eventually found it for just over $300. I wanted to be really sure that was the problem so I kept testing and got to where I needed to dismount the board and realized I should have just done that from the beginning:  Well there's your problem. It nice to get confirmation of a diagnisis before buying parts that aren't returnable.
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Feb 16, 2024 20:14
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Shooting Blanks posted:Not sure if this is the best thread for this question, but: Bird strike film. It goes on the window and refracts enough light to make the birds not hit it. If they're attacking a reflection that should also help. https://www.theaudubonshop.com/product-category/prevent-bird-strikes/ Motronic posted:14 year old frigidaire double wall oven (electric). Top one stopped working. Have you tried unplugging it and plugging it back in again? Please reset your cable modem. H110Hawk fucked around with this message at 23:11 on Feb 19, 2024 |
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Feb 19, 2024 23:09
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I'm going to need to transport a bulky pet crate about 3/4ths of a mile, on foot, along with my dog. And, ideally, my luggage -- I could stash it at the hotel (3/4ths of a mile from the terminal), it just means an extra 1.5 miles of walking. Anyway. I've determined that if I can tie the crate to my rolling suitcase, then I should be good to go:  The question is, what knot should I use? I'm not a knots expert. I need something that can be drawn taut, but can be easily untied when I'm done. Other suggestions are welcome, of course. The one caveat is that I'm not allowed to permanently attach wheels to the crate. Also all of my tools are packed, so I can't easily fabricate anything.
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Feb 19, 2024 23:15
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truckers hitch https://www.animatedknots.com/truckers-hitch-knot
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Feb 19, 2024 23:17
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Thanks, that did the trick!  It took a few tries to put the upper loop in the right place, and I do need to use my keys to untie it, but that'll do. (I'm just using a bowline to secure the other end; that's one of the few knots that I can produce on demand)
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Feb 20, 2024 00:01
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Excellent use of the trucker's hitch! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TUHgGK-tImY
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Feb 20, 2024 04:12
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what a music video   (apologies for the dust) There's two horizontal rails, which the part of the mount that's screwed to the display slides on. I can't figure out how to get that bit off of the rails, though. There's not enough vertical leeway as far as I can tell. Any ideas? Nevermind, found two screws that had to be loosened before the display could be pulled off the rails. TooMuchAbstraction fucked around with this message at 06:24 on Feb 20, 2024 |
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Feb 20, 2024 06:09
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Pull the TV out from the bottom and lift up?
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Feb 20, 2024 06:24
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The dust.... The dust....
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Feb 20, 2024 15:34
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brugroffil posted:The dust.... The dust.... Where else is it supposed to live? Also we found the one person ever who has tightened to thumb screws at the bottom instead of relying on the springs in the mounting arms.
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Feb 20, 2024 15:48
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H110Hawk posted:Where else is it supposed to live? I bet the TV fell off and he made this post as part of an insurance scheme 
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Feb 20, 2024 16:47
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The sad fact of the matter is that I probably just dutifully followed the instructions in the manual, instead of figuring out how the thing worked by observation and trial and error. 
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Feb 20, 2024 16:51
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So I've got a ceiling fan with lights controlled by a single wall switch and pull chains. I need to replace the light power pull chain switch and the fan speed pull chain switch but I can't find a wiring diagram, and the fan speed switch was totally disconnected when I opened it up. Home Depot was no help, even though it's one of their Hampton Bay branded products - and I googled all the model info I could find. I've got the light power switch figured out, but I don't want to do the rest by trial and error. Here's the capacitor (I've been told that's what it's called):  And the rest of the wiring:  Any advice on how to wire up the fan speed switch or how to find instructions? I have an electrician friend but she does primarily commercial construction, not appliances, and she couldnt find a wiring diagram anywhere either.
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Feb 20, 2024 20:27
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The magic words are "5 wire capacitor". I was too lazy to mspaint a diagram so I googled one using that magic search term for you: I think that matches the number of poles on your switch. It's definitely the right capacitor style.
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Feb 20, 2024 20:35
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Eyyy that did it. Thanks!
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Feb 20, 2024 23:18
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Shooting Blanks posted:Not sure if this is the best thread for this question, but: Something like this? They're attacking it because they see their reflection, if you can prevent that in some way it will stop. You might find you only need it up during spring.
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Feb 21, 2024 00:59
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I have a spot on my ceiling, underneath a toilet. The good is I'm 99% sure where the cause of the problem is, the bad is this particular space is insulated ("soundproofed"). I think my deductible is a couple thousand therefore I think there is about a small chance that I can either pay out of pocket, or need to to file an insurance claim. Can I open my ceiling and look around before contacting my insurance?
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Feb 22, 2024 22:09
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Not Wolverine posted:I have a spot on my ceiling, underneath a toilet. The good is I'm 99% sure where the cause of the problem is, the bad is this particular space is insulated ("soundproofed"). One small spot directly underneath a known water fixture that gets used a dozen times a day supporting 200lbs of dynamic load (your posts) is not insurance territory. This is call a plumber or cut a hole. If you find more extensive damage than you expected (or you cut through a water main causing a much larger amount of damage) then think about your insurance. You want to be clearly into several times your deductible.
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Feb 22, 2024 22:23
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also, your insurance almost definitely excludes water damage from a "slow leak" so check your policy, there's a good chance it's not covered even if you have ten thousand dollars of damage in your ceiling do not under any circumstances cover up your slow leak damage by manufacturing a bathroom flood disaster in order to get them to pay, that would be fraud, so it's definitely not a thing that I would suggest you do
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Feb 22, 2024 22:55
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The potty is getting pulled, but the ceiling depends. It may be an option to just paint over it and pretend the manky insulation doesn't exist. Also if you call a plumber, they may just pull the potty and say "well, better fix the floor and call me back." Speaking from experience
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Feb 23, 2024 00:35
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Not Wolverine posted:I have a spot on my ceiling, underneath a toilet. The good is I'm 99% sure where the cause of the problem is, the bad is this particular space is insulated ("soundproofed"). Yes. But take pictures of the ceiling before you cut. And it's probably the closet flange seal ('wax ring'). It may also be a leak in the waste line under the toilet. If the home is new enough, it might be an unglued joint (my niece's issue). See what your deductible is first. Insurance will cover replacing the wet insulation, patching up the drywall, and painting. Compare it to the size of the affected room. If you have an open-plan house, the paint continues on the ceiling (or the walls as well, if they're the same color) into all rooms & areas that are physically continuous. Does not cover plumbing repairs. If you open it & think that repairing it is too ambitious, get at least one estimate so you have some idea whether it's worth reporting. Leperflesh posted:also, your insurance almost definitely excludes water damage from a "slow leak" so check your policy, there's a good chance it's not covered even if you have ten thousand dollars of damage in your ceiling It's got to be an obvious long-term deterioration seepage issue before I'd even consider denying it. You may have a poo poo carrier who'll be assholes and try to deny a recent, fresh stain/bubbling but they are wrong to do so, and I'd weigh in on your behalf if your damages support it (post a picture). PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 02:38 on Feb 23, 2024 |
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Feb 23, 2024 02:35
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Not Wolverine posted:I have a spot on my ceiling, underneath a toilet. The good is I'm 99% sure where the cause of the problem is, the bad is this particular space is insulated ("soundproofed"). It’s your ceiling. You can do whatever you want with it. For a non sarcastic answer, I would not contact insurance about this. It’s likely to be cheaper to pay out of pocket if it even is covered.
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Feb 23, 2024 02:50
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I pulled the toilet, the wax was present but half of the plastic cone in the middle of the wax disintegrated and vanished. I suspect the floor is hosed, I think the vinyl flooring appears might be bubbling slightly around the toilet. My floor also has a light gray discoloration around the toilet, however the vinyl immediately that was under the toilet is not discolored. If this was mold, wouldn't it also discolor the vinyl under the toilet, at the source of the leak? The surface of the vinyl is dry. The subfloor around most of the flange appears black and felt a little soft.
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Feb 23, 2024 04:45
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Water can wick its way under the clear layer of vinyl at the exposed edges, and stain the color layer, which drives folks insane as they scrub it & nothing changes. If the old wax seal came off mostly clean on either face (at the floor flange, or the underside of the toilet), then it wasn't sealing. If there's any mold, just clean it off. Usually it's just under-toilet mung. As long as the vinyl & underlayment are laying flat, and the discoloration is visually minor, I'd re-mount & live with it. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 04:56 on Feb 23, 2024 |
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Feb 23, 2024 04:52
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The seal didn't leave any wax on the flange. I am still concerned because the ceiling discoloration has a few black dots. There is a regular yellow water spot, then a small brown area with a couple black dots,
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Feb 23, 2024 05:06
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Yeah; it was leaking then. Keep an eye on the ceiling, but mold is largely overblown. Under IICRC / NY city guidelines for mold remediation, they do not recommend remediation unless you have more than ten square feet of moldy material. Once you reinstall the john on a new seal that's holding, you've eliminated the water source. Mold can't propogate. There may be a bit more staining as the insulation slowly dries out, but keep wiping down the ceiling. Eventually it'll dry out & you can re-paint.
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Feb 23, 2024 05:18
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Is it one of those extended wax rings because the flange isn't sitting at the right height above the finished floor? I never trust those extra thick wax rings. They're probably fine, but I just don't like them
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Feb 23, 2024 06:23
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PainterofCrap posted:It's got to be an obvious long-term deterioration seepage issue before I'd even consider denying it. You may have a poo poo carrier who'll be assholes and try to deny a recent, fresh stain/bubbling but they are wrong to do so, and I'd weigh in on your behalf if your damages support it (post a picture). State Farm denied my mother in law's claim, which was an actual slow leak in the wall of her condo from the kitchen sink drain pipe running through it from the unit above hers. It caused catastrophic damage inside the wall that she didn't see until it had also rotted through the back of her kitchen cabinets, which had to be torn out to reveal the full extent of the damage. They then tore out the drywall, found it ran right into the floor, tore out the lower cabinet and ripped up linoleum to reveal the extent of the subfloor damage. She basically needed 80% of a new kitchen at that point. Oh and they brought in mold remediation as the entire wall and part of the floor was covered in a black mold. This was on a weekend in November, so it ran $8k for the mold remediation, another $8K for the emergency demolition and moving all her poo poo out of her home as it was now uninhabitable, and presumably weeks of lodging might have been claimable too. Her actual first indication there was a problem was water dripping out of the light fixture in the middle of the kitchen. Smelly water, which the plumber they called at first said might be the toilet sewer line which is also in that ceiling, so she kinda freaked out and we had to move her out immediately. Thankfully it was just kitchen sink water. Ugh. But anyway, it was all genuinely due to a slow leak - a poor join where the pipe went through a floor joist that gradually opened up since ~1980, so, flat denied. That's when I started googling around and found out that this is apparently a very, very common exclusion for homeowners' insurance. Leperflesh fucked around with this message at 07:50 on Feb 23, 2024 |
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Feb 23, 2024 07:48
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canyoneer posted:Is it one of those extended wax rings because the flange isn't sitting at the right height above the finished floor?
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Feb 23, 2024 13:53
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Not Wolverine posted:Above the floor you say? The damned flange is level with the finished floor. The builder mounted the flange to the subfloor and then put a layer of 1/4" plywood on the subfloor to build up the height of the vinyl, and they cut a ring in the 1/4 layer around the flange. I was able to pull up some of the vinyl by hand, because I was tearing off a paper thin layer of the soaking wet plywood build up layer. Yeah.... probably your issue there, they should be installed on top of the floor. (Or can use a spacer to get it up higher) 
Rakeris fucked around with this message at 14:38 on Feb 23, 2024 |
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Feb 23, 2024 14:33
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I'm 99% certain the builders probably did the same thing in the other two bathrooms. My wife is adamant this must be fixed even if insurance is just going to laugh hysterically at my misfortune, so I'm going to call around and hope I can find someone to come out for an estimate today.
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Feb 23, 2024 14:55
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Random aside: why are wax rings still used? Surely modern materials sicence has come up with something better? Is wax just good enough and that much cheaper than some automotive or nasa solid rocket booster inspired gasket?
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Feb 23, 2024 19:35
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Ceramic is a very finicky material, it has a shrink rate and it can slump and stuff, and firing an entire toilet body at once kind of amplifies that. So my best guess is that the exact size and shape of the hole in the bottom of toilets is too variable to have a standard gasket that will always fit. Whereas you can make wax that is bigger than any hole might be and it'll permanently deform to fit the shape of the actual toilet hole and seal to it, and then not degrade for literally decades whereas rubber and plastic definitely degrades over time no matter what. I bet you could still come up with some magic futuristic material that'd mimic what the wax does, but for 10x the cost?
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Feb 23, 2024 19:48
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