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brugroffil posted:Who do you look for for a window replacement contractor? Carpenters? Honestly just find folks in your neighborhood that are doing flips and ask them to do half a day doing windows. General remodeler’s or carpenters yeah.
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Feb 23, 2024 03:06
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I worked for a restoration company and we did a lot of sliding doors and windows also.
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Feb 23, 2024 03:15
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Linoleum Mushroom posted:I had a window shatter spontaneously last week (cracked but no impact) and short of figuring out how to buy/cut a new double pane I for the life of me cannot figure out how to get it repaired. I had the same thing happen. I watched this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vYFY7uioX_Y Then ordered a pane from https://peninsulaglass.com/. It probably would've been way cheaper to find someone local, but I did this from my couch. Put it all together and it worked great.
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Feb 23, 2024 03:22
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There’s no way you’d end up with as good of a seal on them if you just replace the glass. It’s probably easier and maybe/probably cheaper to just replace the whole thing.
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Feb 23, 2024 03:33
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steckles posted:If you live in a place where you can get Synko Concrete Fill then repairing plaster, when the lath is okay or minimally damaged, is about the easiest wall repair you can do. If the lath is damaged enough that it's broken a bunch of keys, then you're in for a fun time. We just rewired our house which involved cutting an repairing a half meter high trench along most walls plus a million bonus holes, so I got to experience the whole plaster repair gamut from "blorp some quickset over it" to "cut the wall out and hang drywall". Very amusing, would not recommended. I was renovating our bedroom in 2014 when I went to patch a big crack in this corner and it blew out. First photo was after I was able to screw a 1x1 nailer to the corner stud, then added lath.    The plaster was a powder mix in a 2-lb box from Home Depot. Mixed it up per instructions until I had cookie batter & smooshed it in.  Took three coats to get it smooth, then wiped it down with a damp rag. I'm cutting in blue paint. The white blotches are other plaster cracks the were patched  2016: kitchen remodel, pulled down a chimney:      This last photo is a true glamour shot: it's in PVA primer, which is dull; the light is bad; it looks perfect. I see the patch lines every damned day because the ceiling is gloss & the walls are semi-gloss. I find plaster patching easier than mudding drywall; I get better results. I am terrible at drywall compounding. 
PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 04:46 on Feb 23, 2024 |
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Feb 23, 2024 04:37
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PainterofCrap posted:I was renovating our bedroom in 2014 when I went to patch a big crack in this corner and it blew out. That brings back extremely recent memories. I didn't take many photos during the process, but I guess you showed me yours so I should show you mine. After running wires but before patching. The entire wall on the right had to be cut out because our electrician's dimwitted assistant apparently decided a hammer and wrenching lath out by hand was a good way to get in. He could have made due with a couple 4" square holes but I guess he thought we'd like the extra work. He also installed 50% of the light switches upside down and put the back porch light on a dimmer for some reason.  After tying in new drywall, filling, and painting, but before the baseboards went on:  The whole 2000 sq.ft. house basically looked like that. I'm pleased that it only took me five weeks of evenings and weekends to get it looking okay again. I also found that repairing the plaster was easier and I got better results than hanging drywall.
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Feb 23, 2024 08:53
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That windowsill looks comfy af, that's where I want to be when I'm a cat or cactus.
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Feb 23, 2024 10:25
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PainterofCrap posted:
My (perhaps lazy, Gary) solution to this is I don't use proper mud, I just use the pre-mixed joint compound. Slather it on there, scrape it flush, sand it flat, repeat 2 or 3 times until there aren't any visible defects. It also covers up well enough that it lets me be a real moron with driving screws in everywhere to put back up my jigsaw puzzle of drywall chunks. Everything I've done is patching, though. Cut out a big chunk to do some poo poo in the wall, put the pieces back up, tape, close the gaps, paint. I'm assuming there's some reason this won't work on closing the edges of a big area like a full wall you're putting up.
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Feb 23, 2024 14:17
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It's just about set time. If you're trying to mud large joints (especially butt joints that require a lot of mud to feather out the hump), your hot mud is likely going to start setting in the middle of your job. Both on the wall and (worse) in your bucket/pan/hawk. Then it's a right bitch to do a proper job.
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Feb 23, 2024 17:07
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After looking through the quotes, going with a 17 seer 4 stage hybrid heat pump and adding a whole house humidifier. Old one was working fine, though about 3-4 years past its expected lifespan. It started to die when our patio contractor moved the exhaust to right behind the compressor. Surprise, with humidity/temperature conditions, the clouds of moisture get sucked into the compressor and condense on the circuit board, loving up the entire system at times. The quote includes re-routing the exhaust vent to yet another wall, this one on the far side of the house. I’m not having my patio contractor come and do it, he’s lost my trust in that area. I know that he will want to make it right but we can have those conversations next time he’s on site. Thankfully since we have a drop ceiling it can likely be done with minimal changes to the drop ceiling supports. Should be able to just clear the main beam on the far side and keep a slope for drainage.
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Feb 23, 2024 17:09
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Cyrano4747 posted:My (perhaps lazy, Gary) solution to this is I don't use proper mud, I just use the pre-mixed joint compound. Slather it on there, scrape it flush, sand it flat, repeat 2 or 3 times until there aren't any visible defects. It also covers up well enough that it lets me be a real moron with driving screws in everywhere to put back up my jigsaw puzzle of drywall chunks. Once I learned that joint compound is supposed to have some water added to the stuff in the bucket it changed everything, especially for finish coats.
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Feb 23, 2024 18:44
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Once I learned that joint compound is supposed to have some water added to the stuff in the bucket it changed everything, especially for finish coats. Lol no poo poo? Like how much are we talking about?
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Feb 23, 2024 19:02
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Just so you get a good spreadable consistency. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gwxgL9VwuyI&t=163s That bucket is way dryer than any premix I've ever bought, but the end result is what you're going for
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Feb 23, 2024 19:20
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Once I learned that joint compound is supposed to have some water added to the stuff in the bucket it changed everything, especially for finish coats. This teasponish of water on a hawk was fuckin life changing
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Feb 23, 2024 20:13
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So I have a question about automatic garage door openers. I have a Liftmaster 8355-267 It is a 1/2HP belt drive model that's about 9 years old. Recently I've been having issues where it will travel part way and stop. I'd hit the remote a couple times and it would eventually go. Did some troubleshooting with the manual and all things pointed to reprogramming travel, which I did. Worked fine for a few days and now it just travels between 6-10 inches and stops. Does even reverse. I get a code of 4 up - 1 down which also seems to steer towards reprogramming travel, but I can no longer do it. Utilizing the manual down button (on the unit itself, not the remote) it won't get to the end of travel down without stopping...ends about 1' up from the floor. Here is the manual (in case anyone is curious) https://www.devancocanada.com/files/manuals/8355-267:Installation-manual.pdf I have disconnected the door and it travels smoothly manually, so no binding or broken springs. I wiped the carriage/shuttle track down and it seems smooth with no binding or anything. It is not a auto detect issue either, there are flashing lights when that happens and it reverses, this just stops dead when going down. So, all things that I can see points to the logic board, a 45ACTMC (appears to be an update of the original 45ACT). My question is this: The logic module is going to cost me around $200 by the time I buy it and pay for shipping. That's a good chunk of a new opener. Should I just replace the whole opener with a new model? I have never done anything like that and no idea how hard it is, but the track and all goodies appear to be fine with the existing one. Is it a straight forward job? Or are the boards a very common fail point on these and just do that? For reference, it's a double wide garage door... I didn't measure it but if I had to guess.. oh, 20-22' wide? Just a spitball. But the door, spring and associated hardware seems to be fine. Would there be a benefit to going to a 3/4HP(?) or larger unit in place of a 1/2 ? The1/2 has been fine for 9 years.
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Feb 24, 2024 01:17
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doesn't sound like the right code for this, but does this happen at all times of day, or just when its sunny? it took me weeks to figure out my door reversing was because the sun was shining on the obstruction detector receiver when i was trying to use it during bright times
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Feb 24, 2024 05:21
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If you do buy a new opener get a quiet drive with WiFi, they’re real nice and they don’t take that much to replace.
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Feb 24, 2024 05:30
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The last thing I want connected to my network is the garage door.
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Feb 24, 2024 16:28
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KoRMaK posted:doesn't sound like the right code for this, but does this happen at all times of day, or just when its sunny? But I've had that happen often enough that my first trouble shooting thing if anything garage door fucky happens is to dust the obstruction sensors and make sure they're pointed correctly so I agree that's a 100% reasonable thing. I've even had your exact problem with direct sunshine too. I'm considering an updated 3/4HP ultra quiet Chamberlain model, one with a camera. https://www.homedepot.ca/product/ch...1631245#reviews Does anyone know if since it's the same brand if I'd likely be able to just attach it to the existing track/guide and everything? Or would I have to swap basically everything over? I *hope* I could use the old hardware?
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Feb 24, 2024 16:37
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Have you greased your wheels/coils lately? Used to have the garage door stopping problem but went away when greased. Now I do it every 6 months or so with silicone grease blaster.
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Feb 24, 2024 16:58
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Yes. That was the 2nd thing I did after I confirmed the obstruction system wasn't at fault. I thought it might be a drag/resistance thing, it wasn't. The door lifts and closes super easy when disconnected and the guide track for the shuttle (?) (thing that pulls the belt back and forth) is smooth.
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Feb 24, 2024 17:02
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Cyrano4747 posted:The last thing I want connected to my network is the garage door. Using the line “I work in cybersecurity” is very effective way to get the sales guy to understand why I don’t want any goddamn internet connected thermostat, garage door opener, or any other appliance for that matter.
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Feb 24, 2024 17:12
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I'm not a IoT guy either, but I like the idea of a camera in the opener, which by definition will require it to be connected to wifi, but yeah I am not a smart appliance guy in general either. I'm one of those people leaving the house for a week and get a couple miles away "Did I close the garage door???" gently caress I don't remember doing it. And come back home to check because it'll gnaw away at me otherwise.
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Feb 24, 2024 17:17
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devmd01 posted:Using the line “I work in cybersecurity” is very effective way to get the sales guy to understand why I don’t want any goddamn internet connected thermostat, garage door opener, or any other appliance for that matter. My goddamned thermostat is now internet connected. Thankfully I have everyone on a temp network so when I actually move it will all disconnect and welp too bad. I just made it my contractors name and posted it saying all trades can use it.
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Feb 24, 2024 17:18
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slidebite posted:I'm not a IoT guy either, but I like the idea of a camera in the opener, which by definition will require it to be connected to wifi, but yeah I am not a smart appliance guy in general either. I have cheap amazon cameras throughout my house, including one in the garage looking towards the garage doors. just needs power and a wifi signal, it doesn't need to be so fancy that it is also connected to the opener. It also sees the rest of the garage which is helpful.
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Feb 24, 2024 17:56
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Some Guy From NY posted:I have cheap amazon cameras throughout my house, including one in the garage looking towards the garage doors. just needs power and a wifi signal, it doesn't need to be so fancy that it is also connected to the opener. It also sees the rest of the garage which is helpful. drat;;; I can’t believe you haven’t been killed by iot yet???
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Feb 24, 2024 18:02
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I think it was in this thread. Somebody said there was one well-made make of microwaves, and listed a couple of good brands -- what was it? Our beloved 21-year-old microwave is starting to go, and I know we won't get that quality again. 
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Feb 24, 2024 18:15
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Panasonic Inverter based general recommendation, but I think the patents expired and others are making decent knock offs now.
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Feb 24, 2024 18:24
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Go ahead poo poo having a garage door connected to WiFi. It’s saved my rear end a bunch over the years compared to whatever cybersecurity boogeyman yall are concerned about. Most garage door openers can easily be spoofed without WiFi, hth.
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Feb 24, 2024 21:06
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If somebody really wants in my garage they'll break the window before hacking my network.
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Feb 24, 2024 21:25
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It's not you hackers are after, it's absolute count. Things like the Mirai botnet (which probably is what caused California to enact the "no default password" law) trivially jumped from network to network. Or the Hue hack. All you need is one payload to be a cryptolocker and you're in for a bad day. As with all of these you can be perfect and know the best practices, but if there is a zero-day botnet spreading and your neighbor has it now so do you. There are easy dismissals of any individual exploit, but "defense in depth" is the name of the game here. Especially once you have kids who will download / click on literally anything. (And defeat your attempts to prevent them.) Removing some of the most well known exploit targets reduces the surface area of your network. https://www.theverge.com/2016/10/21/13362354/dyn-dns-ddos-attack-cause-outage-status-explained https://techcrunch.com/2018/10/05/california-passes-law-that-bans-default-passwords-in-connected-devices/ https://eyalro.net/publication/rosw17.html I'll go back to being paranoid in the corner.
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Feb 24, 2024 21:46
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That’s why I got a vasectomy
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Feb 24, 2024 21:48
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tuyop posted:That’s why I got a vasectomy lol
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Feb 24, 2024 22:00
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tuyop posted:Home Zone: It's a gigantic job and I'm very tired that’s why I got a vasectomy
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Feb 24, 2024 22:04
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slidebite posted:I'm not a IoT guy either, but I like the idea of a camera in the opener, which by definition will require it to be connected to wifi, but yeah I am not a smart appliance guy in general either. When you are getting ready to leave, just snap pictures of everything you worry about. Did you close the garage? Just check your photo reel to reassure yourself. Sure you can install some cameras and stuff, but you already have a phone and you can take pictures more easily than setting up enough cameras to confirm you locked all the windows.
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Feb 25, 2024 04:50
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Buddy if I could remember to photograph the doors I wouldn't forget if I'd closed/locked them or not. I'm not OP but I have smart door locks and a smart garage door in large part because of how easy it is to check if everything is locked up.
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Feb 25, 2024 05:27
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FISHMANPET posted:Buddy if I could remember to photograph the doors I wouldn't forget if I'd closed/locked them or not. Google home sometimes thinks I wanted a light turned off when I wanted a fan turned off. I would be pretty nervous about accidentally unlocking my front door or opening my garage but then again you don't need to have those things voice controlled, I guess?
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Feb 25, 2024 05:33
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That’s fine that just makes it seem like someone is home which is the perfect deterrent.
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Feb 25, 2024 05:55
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VelociBacon posted:Google home sometimes thinks I wanted a light turned off when I wanted a fan turned off. I would be pretty nervous about accidentally unlocking my front door or opening my garage but then again you don't need to have those things voice controlled, I guess? On my setup with Alexa it requires a passcode for the garage door and smart door locks to open. So you can't have it open/unlock on accident. For me, it's not a perfect solution, but I have a restricted guest network on 2.4g (since a lot of stuff can't do 5) that all IoT stuff is on. Then I have my mesh network using a diet pi box for DNS that has a few different security setups (plus pihole) running. It still has some risks, but the convenience and benefits certainly make it worth it for me and my family.
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Feb 25, 2024 06:53
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Being paranoid is probably the right choice but I have a lot more to worry about than the slight chance someone will hack my non default settings WiFi network. It’s just easier to cold call grandma or hack Equifax.
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Feb 25, 2024 07:02
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