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I think I'm going to give up and get a new oven, I'm looking at a Kitchenaid with induction cooktop, any caveats there? This one here Opopanax fucked around with this message at 20:08 on Feb 23, 2024 |
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Feb 23, 2024 19:49
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Arrath posted:Random aside: why are wax rings still used? Surely modern materials sicence has come up with something better? Is wax just good enough and that much cheaper than some automotive or nasa solid rocket booster inspired gasket?  These work great. You can pull the toilet and put it back again without changing them too. But wax rings just work too. There's not a huge advantage to one over the other past pulling the toilet/cleanup as far as I can tell. And a wax ring comes in the box with your new toilet so......
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Feb 23, 2024 19:54
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does the rubber last 50 years or do you gotta pull up the toilet to replace it about as often as you have to replace the rubber bits in the tank at the back, which seems to be like ~ every 15y or so?
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Feb 23, 2024 19:57
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Leperflesh posted:does the rubber last 50 years or do you gotta pull up the toilet to replace it about as often as you have to replace the rubber bits in the tank at the back, which seems to be like ~ every 15y or so? That's the open question and why I would tend to use wax instaead if all things were equal. It's like pex - we're pretty sure we've done plastic pipe correctly this time, after we screwed up the first several times and....oh wait, whoops - rats chew pex. poo poo, back to the drawing board on that whole copper replacement thing.
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Feb 23, 2024 19:59
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Yeah that's about what I expected, thanks everyone.
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Feb 23, 2024 20:03
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Motronic posted:That's the open question and why I would tend to use wax instaead if all things were equal. No problem, we'll just protect the PEX somehow. Like put a guard around it. How about we run it through some type of conduit? Just to be sure, we'll make the conduit out of some sort of metal. We don't want it to rattle, though, so maybe some type of metal that we bond very securely at the seams.
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Feb 23, 2024 20:05
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I mean, another option is to not have rats in your walls
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Feb 23, 2024 20:06
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Leperflesh posted:I mean, another option is to not have rats in your walls So you're saying to not live in the bay area? Or just do'nt use pex there?
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Feb 23, 2024 20:13
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I live in the bay area and have owned this house for 14 years and have never had rats in my walls e. I have copper though, because that's what's here, but what I'm saying is if you have rats in your walls eating the pex, you have a pex problem sure but you also have a rat problem and even if you replace the pex with copper you still have a rat problem so maybe deal with the rat problem as the priority
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Feb 23, 2024 20:13
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I removed the track from a broken tub door today. I'm cleaning up the old caulk and grime, but I'm not 100% sure what to do about the lead anchors in the tile. My ideas are: 1) (Gently and without breaking tiles) Remove the anchors with pliers and fill with silicone caulk 2) Trim flush with a oscillating multi tool and cover with caulk 3) Find a cap to put over them I'm leaning towards 1, with 2 as a backup. Anything I might be missing or should watch out for?
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Feb 23, 2024 21:05
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Leperflesh posted:I mean, another option is to not have rats in your walls Motronic posted:So you're saying to not live in the bay area? Or just do'nt use pex there? Look to your left. Now look to your right. If you do not see a rat, you are the rat
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Feb 23, 2024 21:24
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Brute Squad posted:I removed the track from a broken tub door today. I'm cleaning up the old caulk and grime, but I'm not 100% sure what to do about the lead anchors in the tile. My ideas are: If you can work them loose, try that first. If they're stuck fast: drill 'em out - carefully - until you have enough room to lay in silicone & cap the holes.
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Feb 23, 2024 21:29
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Leperflesh posted:I live in the bay area and have owned this house for 14 years and have never had rats in my walls My response was joking, of course. The fact remains that "not having rats in your walls" isn't always a choice one gets to make. And it doesn't take rats plural. Just one rat or mouse in the wrong place at the wrong time. I've been seeing this happen more and more around here, where we have field mice that often get inside of buildings in the fall/winter. It's just another thing to add to the list of "this is not as good as what it was intended to replace regardless of how much 'testing' you've done." Sure it has its plusses and strangths, but this is yet another unintended negative that I don't think most people know about. If you're standing up for the virtue of pex for some bizarre reason I dont know what to tell you. Facts are facts.
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Feb 23, 2024 21:39
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ok lol well no I am not defending pex's honor, it was just my kneejerk immediate reaction to "well if your house is infested with vermin, in addition to eating your wiring and making GBS threads in your walls and dying in there to leave rotting corpses etc., they may also damage your water lines" felt like putting the cart before the horse or some similar metaphor
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Feb 23, 2024 21:47
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Motronic posted:My response was joking, of course. The fact remains that "not having rats in your walls" isn't always a choice one gets to make. And it doesn't take rats plural. Just one rat or mouse in the wrong place at the wrong time. I've been seeing this happen more and more around here, where we have field mice that often get inside of buildings in the fall/winter. It's just another thing to add to the list of "this is not as good as what it was intended to replace regardless of how much 'testing' you've done." Sure it has its plusses and strangths, but this is yet another unintended negative that I don't think most people know about. I had no idea pex was susceptible to pests
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Feb 23, 2024 22:24
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Everything’s susceptible to rodents. They are very very good at what they do, and what they do is chew.
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Feb 24, 2024 01:25
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Opopanax posted:I think I'm going to give up and get a new oven, I'm looking at a Kitchenaid with induction cooktop, any caveats there? I dont have experience with that exact model, but I have an induction cooktop (which I love) and have used several others. The one linked is a design I do not like. It uses buttons/touch points to control the stove top rather than knobs. That may seem minor but in my experience it is actually a real drawback. The one I have which has been my favorite of all models I have used uses standard knobs like you would find on a gas burner. It is easier and faster to adjust temp and more intuitive. I have also found that the touch style inputs have been finicky and fail to register input. It's exacerbated by the fact that the stove does not generally stay clean as you use it. Again, seems like a small thing but I would strongly encourage you to look at alternatives that have different controls.
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Feb 24, 2024 14:00
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My ideological issue with extended wax rings is that wax is a sealing material, not a pipe. All else equal, you want the deformable, sealing part of your system to be only as long as you need it to get the job done. The longer it is, the more possibility for damage when the toilet is used and if it rocks on the base. That shouldn't happen either if the floor is properly level and/or the toilet is shimmed so it doesn't move. I suspect there is a correlation between improperly installed flanges and unlevel flooring.
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Feb 24, 2024 17:37
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Motronic posted:Trisodium Phosphate. You'll find it at the paint store. It's the standard thing to use for wall prep before painting.
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Feb 24, 2024 18:33
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PainterofCrap posted:If you can work them loose, try that first. They were stuck fast and the lead would just rip off. So I ended up going with drilling them out with a shopvac. Got most of it out and should be ready to be caulked when I caulk everything else. Thanks for the help!
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Feb 24, 2024 20:27
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My toilet is refilling extremely slowly, while making a kind of hissing noise.  You can see the drops coming out of that thing on the side of the float. I've owned this toilet for all of two days, prior to which point, it went mostly unused for at least a couple of months. It was working fine yesterday. I have no issues with water pressure in the adjacent sink. The cutoff valve on the supply line to the toilet is fully open. I'm guessing I need to just replace a part, but which part?
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Feb 24, 2024 20:34
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:I'm guessing I need to just replace a part, but which part? The fill valve on the left, replace the whole thing, it's like $20. Here's the video on how to do it, it's quite easy as long as your shutoff valve is functional: https://youtu.be/H5G4OeIDXMk?si=T9mhZ74yN05ziD9V Your call on the type to replace it, there are generally three. One is the old school ball-and-pipe version at the start of the video, one is your current type (and the one in the video), and one is the Korky version with an internal float. Use whatever!
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Feb 24, 2024 20:48
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Make sure to remember to attach the rubber hose to the barb clamped into the overflow pipe. That's to maintain the water level in the bowl after each flush.
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Feb 24, 2024 21:18
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Thanks, will do! Here's hoping that shutoff valve is in good shape...
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Feb 24, 2024 21:40
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Also, put down a big towel or a handful of rags. Before you remove the old fill valve, you can stick a rag in the tank, sop up as much water as you can and wring it right into the bowl. We can help you fix a bad shut off too if that's also broken.
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Feb 25, 2024 00:08
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Had to replace my LG dishwasher heating element. After the replacement it leaked from the element gasket. I got it fixed by tightening further, but then found that the it was leaking from the sump gasket (the big round black gasket). I followed the directions as best I could (a few times) from this video, but it keeps leaking. Anyone have any suggestions for what to do next? It seems like the only thing that 'locks' it in place is putting it in at 12 o'clock first and then pushing down elsewhere, but is that all the pressure that gasket experiences?? I'm getting really tired of pouring water in the washer and watching it leak out the the bottom   https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C20G3wMoMl4&t=369s
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Feb 25, 2024 02:15
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Leperflesh posted:does the rubber last 50 years or do you gotta pull up the toilet to replace it about as often as you have to replace the rubber bits in the tank at the back, which seems to be like ~ every 15y or so? Well it's not constantly sitting in water, so maybe it'll be fine? They're a little more forgiving about repositioning the toilet during install too (and bonus: you don't have to clean up lovely wax when you pull the toilet)
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Feb 25, 2024 04:43
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Leperflesh posted:does the rubber last 50 years or do you gotta pull up the toilet to replace it about as often as you have to replace the rubber bits in the tank at the back, which seems to be like ~ every 15y or so? The short answer is we don't know yet how long they last. So far, they seem to be living up to the hype.
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Feb 25, 2024 05:08
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Hm. Perhaps I'll try this new futuristic "rubber" material next time I need to deal with the rear end end of a toilet. (The top part, that your rear end goes on, is the mouth end of the toilet)
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Feb 25, 2024 05:53
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Leperflesh posted:(The top part, that your rear end goes on, is the mouth end of the toilet) Please don't call it that
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Feb 25, 2024 06:44
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Opopanax posted:Please don't call it that Poseidon's kiss is on the lips.
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Feb 25, 2024 07:12
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Leperflesh posted:Hm. trying to report this
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Feb 25, 2024 07:37
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I always called that part the nostril.
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Feb 25, 2024 07:40
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Hi all, sorry if this is not the best thread to ask in, maybe you can point me in the right direction. At the end of my driveway is an ancient gate post that still has the original fittings. They are quite degraded but still seem strong, I don't think you'd be able to hang a gate straight on them though (there's another one at the bottom of the gate): In my mind, there's some kind of thing that I can put around the vertical part of the fitting to create a smooth surface for a new gate to hang onto, either directly or not. However, I know nothing about DIY, so have no idea if that is a realistic thought or how I would go about doing that. Anyone have any ideas, am I even making sense?
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Feb 25, 2024 14:32
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Olewithmilk posted:Hi all, sorry if this is not the best thread to ask in, maybe you can point me in the right direction. At the end of my driveway is an ancient gate post that still has the original fittings. They are quite degraded but still seem strong, I don't think you'd be able to hang a gate straight on them though (there's another one at the bottom of the gate): Some sort of brass bushing might work Or bronze. Bronze would be a bit more durable.
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Feb 25, 2024 15:55
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Leperflesh posted:the mouth end of the toilet Which part is the hammer end?
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Feb 25, 2024 15:57
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tuyop posted:Which part is the hammer end? The cap for the tank.
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Feb 25, 2024 16:51
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tetrapyloctomy posted:The cap for the tank. That’s not the lips then? Someone needs to tell my party guests 
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Feb 25, 2024 16:59
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tuyop posted:That’s not the lips then? Someone needs to tell my party guests So when someone gives me an upper decker, it's truly rear end to mouth? 
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Feb 25, 2024 21:29
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I got the toilet fill valve replaced, no problem, and it fixed the slow refill. Thanks for the advice!
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Feb 25, 2024 22:23
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