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I posted about this in GWS but I'm having a problem with my oven (hotpoint RGA724EK4WH). The gas and electricity to the oven itself are stuck on, as if the dial is turned to the on position. Stovetop burners are fine. Opening the gas valve sends it flowing to the oven even without the oven plugged in. Is this something I have any chance at fixing myself? I want to say it's something with the relay control board, or that I melted something open by broiling too much.
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Feb 25, 2024 22:42
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E Depois do Adeus posted:I posted about this in GWS but I'm having a problem with my oven (hotpoint RGA724EK4WH). The gas and electricity to the oven itself are stuck on, as if the dial is turned to the on position. Stovetop burners are fine. Opening the gas valve sends it flowing to the oven even without the oven plugged in. Is this something I have any chance at fixing myself? I want to say it's something with the relay control board, or that I melted something open by broiling too much. Not sure how willing you are to get in the with some basic tools, but I'm sure this is something you can solve at home. https://www.appliancepartspros.com/parts-for-hp-rga724ek4wh.html Based on your description I think you're saying the cooktop is fine but the oven is alwys on/will not shut off. This sounds a lot like a bad thermostat assembly (because part of it is the dial itself - sounds like you're just isn't shutting off). https://www.appliancepartspros.com/ge-oven-thermostat-assembly-wb20k8-ap2623073.html That's the part number to search for - it's out of stock at that place.
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Feb 25, 2024 22:53
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Motronic posted:Not sure how willing you are to get in the with some basic tools, but I'm sure this is something you can solve at home. I thought it might be the thermostat but I was confused as to how it would continue to call for more gas even when unplugged from electricity. I suppose if it's still open at the point of disconnection then this would happen? I'd take it out and gently caress around with it if I could find it. Given the price of the part though, we might just get a new oven.
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Feb 25, 2024 23:11
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E Depois do Adeus posted:I thought it might be the thermostat but I was confused as to how it would continue to call for more gas even when unplugged from electricity. I suppose if it's still open at the point of disconnection then this would happen? Yeah, I don't know/did not research specifically how that one works. It's just somewhat of a common thing I've seen on various ovens/ranges with that general design and even showed up in the linked parts seller's Q&A for problems. Searching for the part number......I don't see it in stock anywhere reputable so you may not really have many options. This place claims its in stock for $70 but I have no idea who they are: https://www.seneca-river-trading.com/wb20k8.html
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Feb 25, 2024 23:23
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Spikes32 posted:Had to replace my LG dishwasher heating element. After the replacement it leaked from the element gasket. I got it fixed by tightening further, but then found that the it was leaking from the sump gasket (the big round black gasket). I followed the directions as best I could (a few times) from this video, but it keeps leaking. Anyone have any suggestions for what to do next? It seems like the only thing that 'locks' it in place is putting it in at 12 o'clock first and then pushing down elsewhere, but is that all the pressure that gasket experiences?? I'm getting really tired of pouring water in the washer and watching it leak out the the bottom just in case anyone deals with the same thing - taking the sump out entirely, plugging the holes and seeing where water was leaking from was enough. I had mis-placed one of the impeller gaskets and it was leaking through there.
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Feb 26, 2024 01:45
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I've got a GSS25JERFWW, GE side-by-side fridge. It abruptly stopped cooling at all yesterday. The condenser is room temperature, and the condenser fan and compressor aren't running. The evaporator fan is running, and turns off if the freezer is set to zero (expected behavior as far as I know). The lights also still work correctly. Anyone know what could be going on?
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Feb 26, 2024 04:02
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Leperflesh posted:Hm. Anecdote isn't data, but I replaced mine with rubber when I replaced my toilet about a year ago. No issues so far.
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Feb 26, 2024 15:25
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SouthShoreSamurai posted:Anecdote isn't data, but I replaced mine with rubber when I replaced my toilet about a year ago. No issues so far. a failure rate of 10% at 10 years would be unacceptable to me, and that's not going to be revealed by random "mine seems OK" info from whoever, so alas, I will probably never know (because I don't plan on retiring in my current house and I'm now only like 16 years away from retirement so I'm hoping we'll be selling and moving in less than 10 years). but the next owner of my house might find out
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Feb 26, 2024 19:47
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I have a gas range and want to get on the induction bandwagon. Do I need to get an electrician to change my power or how do I confirm I have the right outlet?
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Feb 26, 2024 20:42
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Wasabi the J posted:I have a gas range and want to get on the induction bandwagon. You can get 100v induction cooktops, sorta, but they suck and basically all the real induction stoves are 220v. You should be able to tell if you have a 220v outlet just by looking at it, at least in the US, because it looks nothing at all like a 110v outlet. You will also want to know the amperage of that circuit, 40-50 amps is typical; if you already had an electric stove then you'd probably have the right outlet and amperage, but since you have gas, there's a good chance you don't have an adequate (or any) 220v outlet. To get one, you'll need an electrician to add a circuit to your breaker and run wire to your kitchen. There's a chance your home breaker is already at capacity, which means upgrading it or getting a sub-panel or something. It can get very complicated and expensive. But it'd be very hard to tell via the internet with a lot more info, so IMO your best bet is to first pull your gas stove away from the wall and see if there's a 220v outlet back there, and if not, call an electrician to come and assess what the options are. If you're in the UK you already have 220v and I dont know about amperage qualifications or whatever. Rest of the world I dunno either.
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Feb 26, 2024 20:49
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Just got a new central a/c system, and the installers said that since the resistance heater is smaller than the previous unit, I should replace the 60A breaker for the system with a 45A breaker. Worth doing?
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Feb 26, 2024 22:21
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Cocoa Crispies posted:Just got a new central a/c system, and the installers said that since the resistance heater is smaller than the previous unit, I should replace the 60A breaker for the system with a 45A breaker. Worth doing? Yeah - they should be able to show you where the spec sheet says what you need. Also extremely easy. Kill power to the panel (main breaker) , verify there's no power, remove old breaker, install new breaker, transfer wires from old breaker to new one. Torque to spec. Turn power back on.
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Feb 26, 2024 22:26
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H110Hawk posted:Yeah - they should be able to show you where the spec sheet says what you need. Also extremely easy. Kill power to the panel (main breaker) , verify there's no power, remove old breaker, install new breaker, transfer wires from old breaker to new one. Torque to spec. Turn power back on. Cool, gonna drag my meter down there tomorrow.
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Feb 26, 2024 22:31
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Wasabi the J posted:I have a gas range and want to get on the induction bandwagon. Did this last week! Pull the existing unit away from the wall and see what outlets are back there. The one I removed was wired through a hole in the cabinet under the sink to the same 120V outlet as the garbage disposal, but there was a 240V outlet right behind the stove ready to go.
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Feb 26, 2024 22:33
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I recently moved into a new apartment, and while overall it's pretty great, the front door has very poor noise insulation to the point where I can pretty clearly hear people having conversations in the hallway/stairwell even several stories up or down from me. It's also not great in terms of thermal isolation, but that's a secondary concern since the stairwell doesn't usually get that cold. Since I'm renting I can't just exchange the entire door, so I'm looking for lower impact solutions to the issue. Having googled around some, the main two options people seem to suggest are either mounting a big heavy curtain in front of the door or sticking special foam panels to the door directly. The foam seems more appealing at first glance, but I've also seen people voice concerns about stuff like fire protection and difficulty removing them without residue upon moving out. So, long story short, does anybody have experience with doing something like this? Any particular brands or products to look out for? Perestroika fucked around with this message at 12:20 on Feb 27, 2024 |
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Feb 27, 2024 11:24
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Perestroika posted:I recently moved into a new apartment, and while overall it's pretty great, the front door has very poor noise insulation to the point where I can pretty clearly hear people having conversations in the hallway/stairwell even several stories up or down from me. It's also not great in terms of thermal isolation, but that's a secondary concern since the stairwell doesn't usually get that cold. How's the weather stripping around the door? Can you see light/feel air movement around it? If so, should be able to get maintenance there to redo it, may reduce the issue. Are there any windows near the door? Or anything else that could allow sound through? Door is hollow I assume? No idea on foam panels never done/heard of that. Just seeing if something else could be the issue.
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Feb 27, 2024 13:24
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Rakeris posted:How's the weather stripping around the door? Can you see light/feel air movement around it? If so, should be able to get maintenance there to redo it, may reduce the issue. And if maintenance won't do it I wouldn't bat an eyelash at doing that myself in a rental. If they don't like it I'll take it off when I leave. But done well I would be shocked if they even noticed.
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Feb 27, 2024 15:20
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Rakeris posted:How's the weather stripping around the door? Can you see light/feel air movement around it? If so, should be able to get maintenance there to redo it, may reduce the issue. The weather strippings are a bit on the hardened side, but they still seem to provide a decent seal. Putting a sheet of paper between the closed door and frame, there's a fair amount of resistance when pulling it out. Still might be worth replacing, I suppose. The one exception is the one at the floor where it's just wood on wood and a bit looser, but I've already tried putting an additional rubber seal and a blanket against the bottom and it didn't seem to make much of a difference. No window, either. The door itself seems... not entirely hollow, I think? It's a fair bit heavier than my interior doors and sounds more massive when knocking against it, on a guess I'd say perhaps it's particle board? The outside also has some kind of fibre sticking out of a screw hole, so I'm assuming there's some sort of fire retardant layer in there as well.
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Feb 27, 2024 16:05
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Tap your walls. I bet there's simply no insulation. You might want to consider a mechanical white noise machine. If you can, put it in the hallway. Talk to your neighbors about it. (your landlord will never allow you to, but 5 neighbors with the same request at least gets the needle off the pin for your chances.) This assumes an interior hallway where this door exits.
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Feb 27, 2024 16:16
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H110Hawk posted:Tap your walls. I bet there's simply no insulation. You might want to consider a mechanical white noise machine. If you can, put it in the hallway. Talk to your neighbors about it. (your landlord will never allow you to, but 5 neighbors with the same request at least gets the needle off the pin for your chances.) This assumes an interior hallway where this door exits. Not sure if it's the walls, they are dense as hell, apparently concrete all the way through. When I tried to drill some holes for shelves they almost annihilated my drill and wouldn't budge until I brought out a hammer drill. I'm pretty much never hearing anything from my adjacent neighbours but everything from the stairwell, which leads me to believe it's probably the door. The layout is basically like: 
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Feb 27, 2024 17:01
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Stairwells are often super echoey places, so I'm not surprised that they transmit sound well. I'd try thumb-tacking a blanket onto the door as a first pass. It won't do a lot, but if it helps, then you know where the problem lies.
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Feb 27, 2024 19:27
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Can anyone here recommend a wireless doorbell? My new place came with a Ring video system, but I just want a basic "press button, get chime inside" setup. Supposedly there are wires for an old-style doorbell in the walls, but I have no clue where I'd start looking for them. Surely someone makes a battery-powered thing where there's a button you mount outside the house, and when it's pressed, a chime inside the house rings.
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Feb 28, 2024 18:48
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Can anyone here recommend a wireless doorbell? My new place came with a Ring video system, but I just want a basic "press button, get chime inside" setup. Supposedly there are wires for an old-style doorbell in the walls, but I have no clue where I'd start looking for them. Surely someone makes a battery-powered thing where there's a button you mount outside the house, and when it's pressed, a chime inside the house rings.
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Feb 28, 2024 19:47
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Arsenic Lupin posted:I've been using these Sadotech doorbells on two houses now. Absolutely no Internet connection, good range, and you get two receivers to place in different areas (e.g. upstairs and downstairs). Nice, thanks for the recommendation!
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Feb 28, 2024 19:50
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I've got a wireless doorbell that has A. an actually fully waterproof button, because B. it works without a battery and uses the kinetic energy of pushing it instead. C. The ringer plugs in D. but has a passthrough so you can still plug in the vacuum E. It's by some stupid french brand that's not on the US amazon
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Feb 28, 2024 20:06
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So you have a bell on a string.
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Feb 28, 2024 23:47
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PainterofCrap posted:So you have a bell on a string. Anyway, sorry if it's not super helpful, but I thought were all good features to look for.
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Feb 29, 2024 00:07
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I need to remove some glue from vinyl without damaging it. Is there a solvent that could do this?
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Feb 29, 2024 01:44
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I don't know the answer, but I do know that it's gonna depend on what kind of glue it is.
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Feb 29, 2024 01:55
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:I don't know the answer, but I do know that it's gonna depend on what kind of glue it is. I don't know unfortunately, but I've got a bunch of the same type of glue as well as a bunch of the same type of vinyl to test, so I can throw stuff at the wall until it sticks. I'm guessing the glue isn't very expensive or heavy duty so that's where I'd start.
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Feb 29, 2024 05:53
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Is the glue flexible and tacky, or hard? What was glued to what? If it's like label residue on a window frame, I'd try wd40.
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Feb 29, 2024 14:18
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I suspect I have rodents in my attic; I can hear something running around at night, and the traps I set on the main level weren't triggered. I can't check the attic for the time being, because my ladders and other tools are being shipped across the country, so I can't actually get up there. However, if there are rodents, then I assume they're getting in here: Squirrels can, presumably, climb along the power line to get to the vent. Mice could climb up the conduit and get in that way. Therefore, first question: are the gaps in the vent panel big enough for a squirrel to get through? Second question: would it be appropriate to cover the vent with wire mesh? Third question: is there something I can install on the conduit to keep rodents from climbing it? Any other advice would be appreciated! (Also, I know I need to pressure wash the siding, it's on my task list, I've only been here for a week)
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Feb 29, 2024 17:02
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Squirrels probably wouldn't bother.
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Feb 29, 2024 17:04
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If you can hear critters running around up there, it's probably raccoons. Squirrels & mice are pretty quiet. They are not getting in through that gable vent; has to be somewhere else.  You can cover the vent with mesh. It already should have screening on the inside, but it's typically nylon, so replace it with heavy-gauge metal screening or wire mesh. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 17:13 on Feb 29, 2024 |
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Feb 29, 2024 17:10
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It's rats, OP.
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Feb 29, 2024 17:12
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Alright, thanks. I've done a quick tour of the house's exterior, and don't see anything that seems big enough for a raccoon to get in through. I know they're like 75% fluff, but still, they'd need a hole that's least a couple of inches in diameter to get in, right? Rats, though, I could believe. The sound I hear is a kind of scrabbling sound. My first thought was that it was something with claws trying to get purchase on the hardwood floors on the main level. It's irregular, but so far has happened every night, and it was particularly active last night. Doesn't seem to correlate with when the furnace is on. And again, I only assume it's the attic because I've seen no physical sign of intrusion on the main level, and my traps haven't been disturbed. EDIT: vvv possums have the same issue as raccoons, viz. needing a fairly large hole to get in through, right?
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Feb 29, 2024 17:20
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Possum
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Feb 29, 2024 17:21
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You could also set up an elaborate Rube Goldberg machine that ends with squeezing the trigger of a loaded handgun that is pointed at the vent.
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Feb 29, 2024 17:24
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of note, squirrels are diurnal and from experience, sound like a sentient football throwing itself through your wall/attic/spaces during the late-morning/mid day timeframe. I’m betting rats if they’re staying in the attic.
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Feb 29, 2024 17:27
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are you sure they're in the attic, and not just on the roof?
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Feb 29, 2024 17:30
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