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Hypnolobster
Apr 12, 2007

What this sausage party needs is a big dollop of ketchup! Too bad I didn't make any. :(

Listerine posted:

Is there a preferred build plate for printing PETG on a Bambu X1C?

The Bambu textured plate is perfect for this (no gluestick required). I've got about 18kg of PETG printed on one over the last few months, no problems at all. I think I've only washed the plate twice in that time, too.

Hypnolobster fucked around with this message at 14:09 on Mar 1, 2024

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Tiny Timbs
Sep 6, 2008

tater_salad posted:

Did you start a fire?.

No it just got a lil melty in there

Didn’t dry the silica out very well either. I know I’m not supposed to use a microwave. I guess a food dehydrator might be better?

Tiny Timbs fucked around with this message at 14:21 on Mar 1, 2024

ixo
Sep 8, 2004

m'bloaty

Fun Shoe
I just dry out my silica in the oven on a baking sheet with some parchment, works fine.

DoLittle
Jul 26, 2006
Why not use microwave? That is what I’ve used and what some dehumidifier pouches recommend.

tater_salad
Sep 15, 2007


Tiny Timbs posted:

No it just got a lil melty in there

Didn’t dry the silica out very well either. I know I’m not supposed to use a microwave. I guess a food dehydrator might be better?

the silica I have says.. toss in a tin and cook at x degrees for like 20 mins.. if only I remember where I firggin put it ilt's like 225 or something (may vary on silica)

bird food bathtub
Aug 9, 2003

College Slice

Synthbuttrange posted:

Printing directly on the plate gives stuff a fat lip because of the extra first x layer exposure times. There's compensation built into slices these days but you have to manually enter the figure yourself.

You can also try increasing your support thickness. I assume those are going into the unseen underside so go hog wild with them. or just keep increasing support density til it works

Printing straight on the plate is my personal favorite. Can cause problems with elephant's footing from burn in bloom but eh, worth it. Makes them a bit of a pain in the rear end to get off. Probably less so for you fancy people with flexiplates but I don't have one so I have to develop other tricks around that.

As far as increasing supports, when I'm having issues like the ones above and I don't want to print straight on the plate I tend to try for one big, stonkin' huge support at the very lowest point of the model for mechanical stability by holding the weight throughout the rest of the print and then the rest of the supports are for overhangs, islands, bridges, flimsy parts and so on. I found that having one big rear end solid support at the bottom removes a lot of other points of failure along the print and allows the rest of the supports to do what they're specifically there to do, not be a distributed net of mechanical support for the entire print. Means having a bit of a sacrificial area but whatever, the underside of my prints is usually oriented to hide any other flaws anyway.

queeb
Jun 10, 2004

m



I do this too even on pre supported stuff, just toss a nice .5-1mm support on each foot for extra safety

Some Pinko Commie
Jun 9, 2009

CNC! Easy as 1️⃣2️⃣3️⃣!
For resin prints I've just been moving the actual model off the plate and having a raft + Heavy supports Everywhere in Chitubox after hollowing the object.

No failures, just more patience removing supports later

On an Elegoo Saturn S and using their settings with their resin.

Listerine
Jan 5, 2005

Exquisite Corpse

Tiny Timbs posted:

No it just got a lil melty in there

Didn’t dry the silica out very well either. I know I’m not supposed to use a microwave. I guess a food dehydrator might be better?

You want to spread the silica out, if it's stacked on top of each other in a container the heat can't get in well. I had 5 kg silica pellets in a metal container that was basically just a cylinder, and 2 hours at 200F in the oven only dehydrated the top cm of pellets. But 45 min spread out on a cookie sheet did the trick.

Elem7
Apr 12, 2003
der
Dinosaur Gum

Hypnolobster posted:

The Bambu textured plate is perfect for this (no gluestick required). I've got about 18kg of PETG printed on one over the last few months, no problems at all. I think I've only washed the plate twice in that time, too.

Are you using Bambu's PETG and whatever the defaults their slicer comes up with or are there some changes you could recommend?

My experience so far has been mixed, except for the very smallest of objects my PETG prints always have a large number of defects even if the basic structure prints successfully.

Elem7 fucked around with this message at 17:46 on Mar 1, 2024

Hypnolobster
Apr 12, 2007

What this sausage party needs is a big dollop of ketchup! Too bad I didn't make any. :(

Elem7 posted:

Are you using Bambu's PETG and whatever the defaults their slicer comes up with or are there some changes you could recommend?

My experience so far has been mixed, except for the very smallest of objects my PETG prints always have a large number of defects even if the basic structure prints successfully.

Some Bambu petg, but also Atomic, PrintedSolid Jesse, and IC3D petg. P1S here, so I always do flow calibration on any new spool. I also always dry all my filament before it ever goes in the printer (even new), which I think is pretty important.



Using pretty much unedited slicer settings overall, but I'm printing structural/functional parts and generally completely solid or very high wall counts. I reduce volumetric speed to slow it down depending on how complex the part is.
If I'm having a problem with a specific print, I'll do more tweaking but it's usually just speed related or dealing with support/overhang issues.

Methylethylaldehyde
Oct 23, 2004

BAKA BAKA

Hypnolobster posted:

Some Bambu petg, but also Atomic, PrintedSolid Jesse, and IC3D petg. P1S here, so I always do flow calibration on any new spool. I also always dry all my filament before it ever goes in the printer (even new), which I think is pretty important.

I print nothing but Bambu PETG on the textured sheet. My prints looked like hot rear end until Orca came out with the calibration cycles. I swap to the smooth PEI sheet, clean it with soapy water, then calibrate the spool.

Parts went from 'well, I'll take it, I guess' to 'it's like PLA, this is awesome' for maybe 15 minutes of time invested per roll.

The Eyes Have It
Feb 10, 2008

Third Eye Sees All
...snookums
Huh, Prusa XL now ships with default 0.4 nozzles instead of 0.6mm.

I just wish the nozzles were as easy to swap as a Revo hotend, that would be :aaa:

The Eyes Have It
Feb 10, 2008

Third Eye Sees All
...snookums
What I really want is to be able to mix and match tools with different nozzle sizes in a single print (something I just sort of assumed was one of the things a toolchanger was for tbqh)

The Eyes Have It fucked around with this message at 21:50 on Mar 1, 2024

Elem7
Apr 12, 2003
der
Dinosaur Gum

Methylethylaldehyde posted:

I print nothing but Bambu PETG on the textured sheet. My prints looked like hot rear end until Orca came out with the calibration cycles. I swap to the smooth PEI sheet, clean it with soapy water, then calibrate the spool.

Parts went from 'well, I'll take it, I guess' to 'it's like PLA, this is awesome' for maybe 15 minutes of time invested per roll.

I'll have to give this a shot, I haven't used Orca yet but have been meaning to switch. It'd be nice to just transition to not using PLA at all since PETG seems so much tougher while being the same price.

Rescue Toaster
Mar 13, 2003
Has anyone ever seen a design for a lid mechanism like this? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qZb7JKCDM-8&t=6s It's an automatic pet feeder that opens/closes by folding up in the middle (rather than the kind that dispenses with an augur).

Searching the sites like thinkgiverse/printables I haven't found anything like that, just the continual-dispenser kind. I'm also considering something that's just a section of a disc with an opening that rotates, although that would take up a lot more room to the side. I'm looking to make something that basically covers a plate or bowl (I can build a wooden box around it, or whatever) and opens and closes. Mainly because I need a couple, those store bought ones are $200 each, and the RFIDs don't always work that well. My cats have very different patterns so I'd probably take a stab at using a Jetson Nano I have laying around to recognize the cats via IR camera.

And as long as I can drive it with a stepper driven by one of the super quiet driver ICs (same kind used in 3D printers I suppose) it should be quiet enough. I'm just running into, I have some ideas and I have a good printer but my competency at 3D modelling is terrible so I'm still pretty dependent on designs I can find.

Roundboy
Oct 21, 2008
I am dreaming of doing something similar, but just have a 'hey Google, feed the demons" and have it throw some food in a few bowls.

The venn diagram of esp32 cards, public GitHub projects, and cad parts is too prevalent not to attempt something

DoLittle
Jul 26, 2006

Elem7 posted:

I'll have to give this a shot, I haven't used Orca yet but have been meaning to switch. It'd be nice to just transition to not using PLA at all since PETG seems so much tougher while being the same price.

I think Bambu Studio has had those same calibrations for a while already. At least in the pressure advance and extrusion calibrations I didn’t notice any difference between the two.

Roundboy
Oct 21, 2008
I have run the calibration for many different spools/brands and I still end up with basically the default settings.

With the exception of my personal TPU settings, "bambu basic (pla/abs/petg)" has worked for everything I need to print

Arguably I can make some adjustments in perimeter speed for some silk pla projects, but that is a wholly different setting

Shadowgate
May 6, 2007

Soiled Meat
This new seam tech looks great, hopefully it makes it way out of the test phase pretty soon.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vl0FT339jfc

gvibes
Jan 18, 2010

Leading us to the promised land (i.e., one tournament win in five years)

Roundboy posted:

I have run the calibration for many different spools/brands and I still end up with basically the default settings.

With the exception of my personal TPU settings, "bambu basic (pla/abs/petg)" has worked for everything I need to print

Arguably I can make some adjustments in perimeter speed for some silk pla projects, but that is a wholly different setting
On my p1s, the default flow rate is always low for some reason. PETG and PLA

Warbird
May 23, 2012

America's Favorite Dumbass

That seam tech looks really drat cool. How quickly does it usually propagate out? I have no idea how quickly Cura adopts this sort of thing.

The Chairman
Jun 30, 2003

But you forget, mon ami, that there is evil everywhere under the sun
a couple neat new tools on Makerworld: Make My Vase, a quick way to make vase-shaped objects by drawing a cross-section, and Pixel Puzzle Maker, which generates printable mosaics from images

w00tmonger
Mar 9, 2011

F-F-FRIDAY NIGHT MOTHERFUCKERS

Popping this here in case anyone else is feeling crazy/motivated. Found 3d printer joints for making a geodesic dome for a greenhouse or whatever

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2483498

2 rolls of filament, 32 8ft 1x2s, some screws, and whatever you want to cover it in

The Eyes Have It
Feb 10, 2008

Third Eye Sees All
...snookums
I just discovered that in Prusaslicer if you right click -> add shape -> gallery, one of the shapes is a universal hang hole.

I thought that was pretty cool. Just add it as a negative shape and done for a hanging frame.

Only registered members can see post attachments!

Javid
Oct 21, 2004

:jpmf:
My PEI sheet, with which I was not impressed for the first while, has grown on me. The more scuffed up the middle part gets the better things stick.

ReelBigLizard
Feb 27, 2003

Fallen Rib

Javid posted:

My PEI sheet, with which I was not impressed for the first while, has grown on me. The more scuffed up the middle part gets the better things stick.



Good work.

The genuine smooth ultem sheets are :discourse: once they wear in. Somewhere way back in the depths of the old thread I have an almost identical photo.

deimos
Nov 30, 2006

Forget it man this bat is whack, it's got poobrain!
PEX was the only sheet I ever printed with that brand new super smooth has ridiculously good sticking power. Leaves a super shiny finish on the bottom layer of parts.

Tiny Timbs
Sep 6, 2008

DoLittle posted:

Why not use microwave? That is what I’ve used and what some dehumidifier pouches recommend.

I kept seeing posts saying the dye in the beads will get deactivated because it gets too hot and non-specific "never do this" warnings.

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002

The Eyes Have It posted:

I just discovered that in Prusaslicer if you right click -> add shape -> gallery, one of the shapes is a universal hang hole.

I thought that was pretty cool. Just add it as a negative shape and done for a hanging frame.



I always called those keyhole slots.

armorer
Aug 6, 2012

I like metal.
In case this information is useful to anyone, the empty cardboard spool from the roll of ELEGOO PLA+ I just finished weighs 152 grams.

The Eyes Have It
Feb 10, 2008

Third Eye Sees All
...snookums
Man, some things are just so much easier and smoother in Bambu's slicer. Like color assignment to model regions, especially by height. It's simply WYSIWYG but in Prusaslicer it's so much less elegant. Not only is there no height "brush" with which to assign colors, but PS's preferred way to do that (by injecting color change pauses at certain heights) assumes a manual color change whose effect isn't visually reflected in the preview.

Want to just use a different toolhead for the different-color filament instead of a bullshit manual color change? You can force a height modifier to use a different tool for perimeter/infill based on height range... but god it's such a clunky feeling way to go about it. I never thought I'd actually prefer Bambu's stuff, but they honestly really do have some nice features.

Son of Rodney
Feb 22, 2006

ohmygodohmygodohmygod

armorer posted:

In case this information is useful to anyone, the empty cardboard spool from the roll of ELEGOO PLA+ I just finished weighs 152 grams.

It is lol, every time I finish one I forget to weigh it. Helps when you have a 100g print to go but aren't sure how much is left

ilkhan
Oct 7, 2004

I LOVE Musk and his pro-first-amendment ways. X is the future.

Son of Rodney posted:

It is lol, every time I finish one I forget to weigh it. Helps when you have a 100g print to go but aren't sure how much is left
Just tell the AMS the next spool is the same color and let 'er rip.

MJP
Jun 17, 2007

Are you looking at me Senpai?

Grimey Drawer
I bought a Creality K1 as a clearance/open-box item from Matterhackers. Matterhackers says their clearance items still pass quality checks. The printer had a frowny face drawn on the extruder housing, there was filament dried on the nozzle, and there's scrapes on the bed. Any other place I've bought clearance/open-box, there wasn't actual functional damage or issues - they might say an item is for parts or not working, or that there's specific problems.

It was as-is, no-returns, so in the end it might just be "sorry, rube, you should have anticipated this" but I feel like there's a difference between "opened, used, returned, and verified that it wasn't in lovely condition" and "opened, used, returned, and immediately returned to stock for clearance sale".

Caveat emptor for anyone else who's thinking of buying Matterhackers clearance printers, I suppose.

NewFatMike
Jun 11, 2015

MJP posted:

I bought a Creality K1 as a clearance/open-box item from Matterhackers. Matterhackers says their clearance items still pass quality checks. The printer had a frowny face drawn on the extruder housing, there was filament dried on the nozzle, and there's scrapes on the bed. Any other place I've bought clearance/open-box, there wasn't actual functional damage or issues - they might say an item is for parts or not working, or that there's specific problems.

It was as-is, no-returns, so in the end it might just be "sorry, rube, you should have anticipated this" but I feel like there's a difference between "opened, used, returned, and verified that it wasn't in lovely condition" and "opened, used, returned, and immediately returned to stock for clearance sale".

Caveat emptor for anyone else who's thinking of buying Matterhackers clearance printers, I suppose.

Did you reach out to them? If not, I’d include pictures because MatterHackers are a decently serious outfit.

queeb
Jun 10, 2004

m



anyone have experience with the A1 mini and like it? I'm considering buying a couple just to pump out smaller prints on, I have tons of stuff that would easily fit on the print bed of one I sell.

tater_salad
Sep 15, 2007


What I understand is even new in box the k1 was poo poo on a shingle.

tater_salad fucked around with this message at 20:34 on Mar 6, 2024

MJP
Jun 17, 2007

Are you looking at me Senpai?

Grimey Drawer

NewFatMike posted:

Did you reach out to them? If not, I’d include pictures because MatterHackers are a decently serious outfit.

Yep, I opened a ticket as soon as I saw the issues and included a few photos. That was last Thursday. Called twice since then, both times it was "being investigated". Haven't had any actual response or updates.

I'm opening a dispute with the credit card. I'll let them fight it out.

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Pilfered Pallbearers
Aug 2, 2007

queeb posted:

anyone have experience with the A1 mini and like it? I'm considering buying a couple just to pump out smaller prints on, I have tons of stuff that would easily fit on the print bed of one I sell.

I’m new to printing, but I have an a1 mini and absolutely love it. Nearly every print has gone flawlessly, and most that didn’t was down to my error.

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