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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Is that rust on the rounded pipe a concern? If so, is this something where I just tell the utility company about it and they deal with it? Not even close. You should feel free to give it a spraypaint tune up if you like for looks. Or house paint. Whatever is handy.
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Mar 2, 2024 21:26
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Motronic posted:Not even close. You should feel free to give it a spraypaint tune up if you like for looks. Or house paint. Whatever is handy. Awesome, glad to hear it. Thanks!
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Mar 2, 2024 21:48
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You'll know when it's a problem by smell.
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Mar 2, 2024 22:31
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H110Hawk posted:You'll know when it's a problem by smell. Evergreen post.
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Mar 3, 2024 00:15
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H110Hawk posted:You'll know when it's a problem by smell. Fix It Fast: Start here for DIY help! (You'll know when it's a problem by smell). My niece's 'gas leak':  He was a hefty boi, for a mouse. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 01:47 on Mar 3, 2024 |
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Mar 3, 2024 01:45
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PainterofCrap posted:Fix It Fast: Start here for DIY help! (You'll know when it's a problem by smell). Did it get electrocuted?
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Mar 3, 2024 02:03
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No, just chose a quiet dark corner to expire in, next to the furnace filter/return... She called me, freaking out about smelling gas. I told her to call PGW (Philadelphia Gas Works) whose tech smelled it too but his sniffer came up zeroes. The weird part was her & her SO smelling it on the second floor of her rowhome when the furnace was running, but nothing much in the basement. I worked my 3X rear end back into the corner behind her stack. I inadvertently kicked aside a piece of 4" PVC piping, & voila. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 02:18 on Mar 3, 2024 |
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Mar 3, 2024 02:16
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canary in the coal mine, mouse in the sump pit
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Mar 3, 2024 04:11
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This is a dumb question that I'm 99% sure I know the answer to but haven't really seen a great answer on googling but I bought a ceiling fan, I'm planning on replacing my circular light fixture in my bedroom with it. The fan comes with a bracket, but that connects to the circular part. The instructions don't point it out, but I should install a fan brace before, right? Something like this: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Commerc...50-NB/205383182 I'll do it anyway but just want to make sure I'm not doing anything i don't need to, I guess.
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Mar 4, 2024 01:58
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Yes, you need a brace for a ceiling fan. If you're lucky, you already have one. Take down the fixture and post a picture of inside the box. We can tell you if you have a brace already or not.
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Mar 4, 2024 02:27
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kid sinister posted:Yes, you need a brace for a ceiling fan. If you're lucky, you already have one. Take down the fixture and post a picture of inside the box. We can tell you if you have a brace already or not. Thanks. I probably won't be doing the work immediately, was planning to install before summer starts but was at the store and somehow Lowe's doesn't have one.
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Mar 4, 2024 02:54
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:This is my gas meter: Welcome to the east coast. 
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Mar 4, 2024 22:20
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SouthShoreSamurai posted:Welcome to the east coast. Thanks! The weather is nostalgic, reminds me of coming out here to visit grandparents when I was a kid.
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Mar 4, 2024 22:52
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I know I'm making a huge mistake by assuming that combination drive screws are a solution to a real problem, but aside from an inventory shortage, why do Pozidriv/Robertson combination drive screws exist? Boring backstory: Each one of these ends tables has 32 PZ2/S2 screws of one length, 32 of another length with the same drive but different head size, 8 in another length, 4 in yet another, a pair of S2, and 1 Philips. The legs are held on with thumbscrews, and I'm going to go with a rough estimate of 60+ staples and a couple of pounds of wood glue in addition to that. There are also some tacks in there despite never having had any fabric on the bottom. Ignore the list price since it's Chairish and I need to refinish them, but it's a pair of these that belonged to my parents and I hope it's worth $60 to ship them. https://www.chairish.com/product/3349029/broyhill-lenoir-house-cherry-traditional-style-22-accent-end-table-3220-02
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Mar 5, 2024 02:08
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edit: (moving to appropriate megathread)
Poque fucked around with this message at 02:37 on Mar 5, 2024 |
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Mar 5, 2024 02:29
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GWBBQ posted:I know I'm making a huge mistake by assuming that combination drive screws are a solution to a real problem, but aside from an inventory shortage, why do Pozidriv/Robertson combination drive screws exist? Square and Pozidrive are objectively better. They’re not nearly as prone to stripping as Phillips and flatheads for one. Maybe you’ll understand once you’ve given them a try. Use nice bits though, something like this: Wera - 5056296001 Pozidriv Mini-Check PZ Sheet Metal Bit Set https://a.co/d/6jpFH4s nitsuga fucked around with this message at 05:52 on Mar 5, 2024 |
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Mar 5, 2024 05:48
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nitsuga posted:Square and Pozidrive are objectively better. They’re not nearly as prone to stripping as Phillips and flatheads for one. Maybe you’ll understand once you’ve given them a try. Use nice bits though, something like this: Wera - 5056296001 Pozidriv Mini-Check PZ Sheet Metal Bit Set https://a.co/d/6jpFH4s I think OP is asking why specifically combination drive screws exist for that type. I'd hazard the answer is "because it's physically reasonable and gives people more options for how they drive the screw", but I don't actually know for sure.
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Mar 5, 2024 12:53
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Please help me reassemble this simple lamp. I take it apart the same way I take apart any hanging lamp... I unscrew the tip at the bottom which allows the metal 'bell' to come off easily. I change the bulb and prepare to reassemble it... but there is a fundamental problem. The length of the copper bolt is somehow too short now. It ends about ~1/2" to 1" from the bottom of the metal bell, meaning that the finial cannot be screwed back on. There are no other pieces lying around. I cannot for the life of me figure out how this simple lamp has broken my brain.  
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Mar 5, 2024 19:00
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The other end of the assembly is 'attached' using two spring-loaded clips, right? Remove the assembly with the clips, attach the bell, and then slip it back together. You only need to hold the clips closed until they pass the lip of the glass. The problem you have is that the spring clips are pulling the assembly too far into the glass globe because the bell isn't attached as a 'stop' against the glass rim. Just a guess based on what I'm looking at, might not be visualizing it correctly.
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Mar 5, 2024 19:24
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Tezer posted:The other end of the assembly is 'attached' using two spring-loaded clips, right? Thanks, this was basically it. I did not realize that the spring clips at the bottom were not part of the same apparatus as the spring clips holding the top together. I thought their function was only to allow the assembly to slide slideways for accessing the bulb, but as you suggested I could squeeze the clips and pull them out.
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Mar 5, 2024 19:48
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My dad wants to jury rig a laser engraver to my old 3D printer, how feasible of a project is this? My understanding thinking about it at a glance is "not very" or probably more trouble than its worth? I think even if we could get the 3D printer program to "print" the letters in mid-air, I think it would be a massive pain to get the measurements right, down to the mm(?) to accurately engrave the text to the (ceramic) object?
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Mar 5, 2024 22:52
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There are 3D printers with options for laser engraving. You might be better off asking in the 3D printing thread here in DIY.
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Mar 5, 2024 23:00
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kid sinister posted:There are 3D printers with options for laser engraving. You might be better off asking in the 3D printing thread here in DIY. Some companies sell laser kits. The danger here is having an unshielded laser blinding you and running amok on a print head without any of the safety of fume extraction.
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Mar 6, 2024 00:56
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Yeah it’s a really bad idea to strap a cutting laser to a 3D printer.
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Mar 6, 2024 01:12
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tuyop posted:Yeah it’s a really awesome idea to strap a cutting laser to a 3D printer.
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Mar 6, 2024 01:14
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nitsuga posted:Square and Pozidrive are objectively better. They’re not nearly as prone to stripping as Phillips and flatheads for one. Maybe you’ll understand once you’ve given them a try. Use nice bits though, something like this: Wera - 5056296001 Pozidriv Mini-Check PZ Sheet Metal Bit Set https://a.co/d/6jpFH4s Raenir Salazar posted:My dad wants to jury rig a laser engraver to my old 3D printer, how feasible of a project is this? My understanding thinking about it at a glance is "not very" or probably more trouble than its worth? I think even if we could get the 3D printer program to "print" the letters in mid-air, I think it would be a massive pain to get the measurements right, down to the mm(?) to accurately engrave the text to the (ceramic) object? It would be much more practical to save $100-200 to get an entry level CNC machine with a laser head and, I cannot emphasize this enough, a good pair of laser safety glasses/goggles* and a good filter and exhaust fan. The DIY part depends on his skill level on a scale from "I know how to do that" to "what could possibly go wrong?" * - the engraving head will inevitably be a frequency doubled Nd-YAG or IR laser with a questionable IR filter, and the fun thing about invisible frequencies is that they don't trigger your blink reflex, so you end up with at least a few hundred mW of light focused close enough to your retinas that you won't notice it until you're completely blind. Did anyone mention that he really needs a good enclosure, exhaust fan, and safety goggles appropriate for the particular laser he's working with? It also will come with a milling motor and bits, and hopefully a safety cover.
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Mar 6, 2024 02:26
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A fire extinguisher wouldn't hurt either.
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Mar 6, 2024 05:00
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This is what I figured, I don't think my dad knew that affordable engravers exist. As for safety precautions I believe yes, his day job is a home business co-owner making ceramics from clay and the dust from sanding down edges where you merge different pieces together using clay has dust particles thats bad for your lungs and requires masking etc; plus gloves for applying the hopefully not radioactive glazing etc, I used to help out as a kid. In a way my family was well prepared for the pandemic because they had a large supply of N95 and face masks already.
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Mar 6, 2024 16:01
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Raenir Salazar posted:This is what I figured, I don't think my dad knew that affordable engravers exist. As for safety precautions I believe yes, his day job is a home business co-owner making ceramics from clay and the dust from sanding down edges where you merge different pieces together using clay has dust particles thats bad for your lungs and requires masking etc; plus gloves for applying the hopefully not radioactive glazing etc, I used to help out as a kid. In a way my family was well prepared for the pandemic because they had a large supply of N95 and face masks already. Creality has some laser heads for their ender 3 models in different wattages: https://store.creality.com/products/creality-laser-module They also sell some engravers but only one has a full enclosure, but they sell an enclosure as an accessory for the rest. It's a really good idea because those things are dangerous, as mentioned by other goons: https://store.creality.com/pages/laser-engravers-home Makers Muse did a video about how dangerous a lot of the cheap laser units are: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-9hIXT8DMUU
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Mar 6, 2024 19:20
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Shitter's no longer leaking! A contractor came last Friday and tore poo poo out, then took a sample of the vinyl to work on a rebuild estimate. Yesterday I was finally notified that it would be at least two months before someone to come patch the hole. Not Wolverine fucked around with this message at 17:58 on Mar 7, 2024 |
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Mar 7, 2024 17:02
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One of the burners on my stove has stopped lighting itself. I'm sure it's the electric igniter, not the gas, since it lights instantly by any other method and otherwise works normally. I already tried cleaning the electrode and reaming out the ignition hole with a paper clip. Is there anything else I can try before calling for service, or are stoves best left to pros in general?
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Mar 7, 2024 17:32
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haveblue posted:One of the burners on my stove has stopped lighting itself. I'm sure it's the electric igniter, not the gas, since it lights instantly by any other method and otherwise works normally. I already tried cleaning the electrode and reaming out the ignition hole with a paper clip. Is there anything else I can try before calling for service, or are stoves best left to pros in general? You can check the connection to make sure it hasn't worked loose, but ignitors fail. They are not a big deal to replace on most stoves and you can probably order one quite cheaply. A good place to plug in the model number is appliancepartspros.com. Then get the part number you find there and see if you can get it any cheaper elsewhere.
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Mar 7, 2024 17:43
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You can search troubleshooting for your exact model. Stoves aren't pleasant to disassemble but swapping parts isn't too hard mechanically. It's totally a DIY job in my house because the cost and time of getting a pro out is not worth it to me
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Mar 7, 2024 17:45
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 Do not look into laser with remaining eye. It's hilarious how yolo people get with lasers. 99% of operating a laser is safety equipment. You must always have wrap-around eye-pro on if the laser can be engaged. Remember things reflect and refract in ways you might not expect. And the filters are rated for certain amount of watts/mm^2 - above that and they are ablative filters which may or may not show signs of ablation.Plus the gases generated by vaporizing <whatever is under the laser> as has been covered. Whatever dad does, and I'm glad he understands particulate filtration and the risk of radioactive glazes, remember lasers are a different type of protection.
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Mar 7, 2024 17:46
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haveblue posted:One of the burners on my stove has stopped lighting itself. I'm sure it's the electric igniter, not the gas, since it lights instantly by any other method and otherwise works normally. I already tried cleaning the electrode and reaming out the ignition hole with a paper clip. Is there anything else I can try before calling for service, or are stoves best left to pros in general? the igniter likely plugs into something on the stove, so you can likely first try throwing an igniter in it for 5-25 dollars than paying someone 100+ to do the same.. What brand / model of stove is it? Google [Brand Model] Igniter replacement, it may just require a screwdriver and basic know-how.
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Mar 7, 2024 17:49
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It's a GE in the JGBXXX line. I can't find a more specific model number on its body anywhere but I can try to narrow it down from the range the generic manual covers. Probably 5-10 years old According to the manual it's a "sealed burner" type and there's a warning not to pop off the cooktop. Good to know this could actually be a DIY task, though
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Mar 7, 2024 17:55
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I have an over the range, built-in microwave and just noticed that the door is slightly skewed when closed. Maybe 1/8 - 3/16 of an inch at the widest part. I think this is a pretty recent development, as in I noticed it Monday. I didn't notice anything that looked like it was bent or warped, but something mush have changed. Door still closes securely, and stays closed, so is there any danger to operating the microwave?
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Mar 7, 2024 19:13
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haveblue posted:It's a GE in the JGBXXX line. I can't find a more specific model number on its body anywhere but I can try to narrow it down from the range the generic manual covers. Probably 5-10 years old https://www.geappliances.com/ge/find-model-serial-number/ranges.htm It could be in a lot of places, including hidden or behind the stove itself.
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Mar 7, 2024 19:44
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Not Wolverine posted:Shitter's no longer leaking! Where are you located?
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Mar 8, 2024 02:26
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haveblue posted:One of the burners on my stove has stopped lighting itself. I'm sure it's the electric igniter, not the gas, since it lights instantly by any other method and otherwise works normally. I already tried cleaning the electrode and reaming out the ignition hole with a paper clip. Is there anything else I can try before calling for service, or are stoves best left to pros in general? As noted: the igniters do fail. We bought a Kenmore in 1996. The only issue I still have with it is the ignitors failing. They're disappearing from parts bins as well, so I buy what I can get. To replace it, you'll need to raise the burner surface to get at the sparky end, and possibly remove the back panel on the control head to get at where it plugs in to the piezio unit that fires all of them.They sometimes list each one with a different part number because the leads vary in length dependong on how far they are from the ignitor. I buy the longest ones still available because that one will work on all four.
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Mar 8, 2024 02:32
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