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https://twitter.com/MHeihati/status/1770384027327123680
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Mar 20, 2024 17:45
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| # ? May 12, 2024 14:29 |
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Those 30MM AC kits look great. I'm really impressed with the level of detail, especially in Steel Haze. Sizewize it looks like they'll match up with their Kotobukiya counterparts which is nice. That comparison photo between the AC and the standard size 30MM looks basically the same as the difference between the pairs of 30MM and Koto AC kits I have sitting on the shelf behind me. edit: Is there a release date for these? edit edit: I googled it. September Big Bizness fucked around with this message at 18:43 on Mar 20, 2024 |
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Mar 20, 2024 18:41
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So as I do more waterslides, I feel like q-tips are really awful for moving the smaller ones onto the model, I feel like I have no control and can't see what I'm doing. Some people have recommended makeup applicators but it seems like there's a lot of different types of those and I'm not sure what they mean there. What other alternatives are there?
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Mar 20, 2024 18:41
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i use a toothpick but i'm willing to upgrade.
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Mar 20, 2024 18:45
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I sometimes use applicators that are sold as for superglue, have tiny brushes at the end. Usually through I just use a toothpick, as long as you're not directly stabbing the decal it works really well to move them around.
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Mar 20, 2024 18:50
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wdarkk posted:So as I do more waterslides, I feel like q-tips are really awful for moving the smaller ones onto the model, I feel like I have no control and can't see what I'm doing. Some people have recommended makeup applicators but it seems like there's a lot of different types of those and I'm not sure what they mean there. What other alternatives are there? I use the blunt side of my hobby knife, just need to be careful not to put too much pressure. probably a similar dynamic to a toothpick
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Mar 20, 2024 18:50
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I use a small brush
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Mar 20, 2024 19:07
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Tweezers, a hobby knife point, or a finger if they're big enough.
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Mar 20, 2024 20:32
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Toothpick.
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Mar 20, 2024 21:16
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One of those fancy q tips that have a point, tweezers, knife. In that order.
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Mar 20, 2024 21:17
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wdarkk posted:So as I do more waterslides, I feel like q-tips are really awful for moving the smaller ones onto the model, I feel like I have no control and can't see what I'm doing. Some people have recommended makeup applicators but it seems like there's a lot of different types of those and I'm not sure what they mean there. What other alternatives are there? There are Tamiya brand craft swab you can buy in lots of shapes that make waterslides easier. The tiny pointed ones work really well for me, and they don't ever fray like Q-tips do. They cost like $5 for a pack of 50 and I've used the same swab for at least 10 kits.
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Mar 20, 2024 21:56
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I've used the swab from a long-expired COVID test kit. Worked pretty good.
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Mar 20, 2024 22:13
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Qylvaran posted:I've used the swab from a long-expired COVID test kit. Worked pretty good. Use the swab from a positive COVID test 
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Mar 20, 2024 23:24
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Phy posted:Use the swab from a positive COVID test Settle down, Gunpla Satan
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Mar 20, 2024 23:43
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Neddy Seagoon posted:Lastly, something I know's been brought up in the thread before; There's a set of cover plates to cover all those unsightly 3mm holes in your robot with cool armor plates. 
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Mar 21, 2024 00:38
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OH! Now I get it, they're armor plates with adhesive backings! Not pegged ones like I thought 30mm would have, though we've got plenty of those already I guess
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Mar 21, 2024 01:10
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Not now ma, Im pegging my robots
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Mar 21, 2024 01:22
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Looking at those 30MF kits, they have color separated bands on their thighs and upper arms in the same place as the 30MS kits. So presumably those lines are fully compatible if you want to make some knight girls or some girl knights.
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Mar 21, 2024 01:27
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I need to put a girl head on Steel Haze
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Mar 21, 2024 01:35
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Mar 21, 2024 01:47
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Synthbuttrange posted:OH! Now I get it, they're armor plates with adhesive backings! Not pegged ones like I thought 30mm would have, though we've got plenty of those already I guess Yeah that took me a bit to parse as well. Gripweed posted:Looking at those 30MF kits, they have color separated bands on their thighs and upper arms in the same place as the 30MS kits. So presumably those lines are fully compatible if you want to make some knight girls or some girl knights. The 30MM line's all about inter-compatibility and standardization, so it's safe to assume they're absolutely interchangeable. Especially as the Item Shop Set was specifically shown working on a 30MS kit.
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Mar 21, 2024 02:22
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Neddy Seagoon posted:Lastly, something I know's been brought up in the thread before; There's a set of cover plates to cover all those unsightly 3mm holes in your robot with cool armor plates. Oh god, just what I needed, more stickers.
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Mar 21, 2024 03:57
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Waffleman_ posted:I need to put a girl head on Steel Haze I already did this joke 
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Mar 21, 2024 04:54
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You could just use plastic cement but I guess Bandai's lack of an in-house cement means they prefer to go the route of stickers.
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Mar 21, 2024 18:53
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Between the Steel Haze and those Requiem for Vengeance designs the surface detailing is absurd. I think an ink wash or a dip wash technique is necessary to fill the cracks because a pen just won't cut it.
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Mar 21, 2024 18:57
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Arc Hammer posted:Between the Steel Haze and those Requiem for Vengeance designs the surface detailing is absurd. I think an ink wash or a dip wash technique is necessary to fill the cracks because a pen just won't cut it. If I'm being entirely honest, I've used both techniques before and I vastly prefer ink washing anyway. Something about the process feels right and more natural than using pens, flow or otherwise.
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Mar 21, 2024 20:31
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Warmachine posted:If I'm being entirely honest, I've used both techniques before and I vastly prefer ink washing anyway. Something about the process feels right and more natural than using pens, flow or otherwise. I enjoy using pens because I like the way they imitate lineart, but the detailing here is microscopic. I gave my brother my old citadel paints and he's got a much larger collection now so I may need to raid his supply of wash paints.
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Mar 21, 2024 21:17
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That's why washes are great, the capillary action has the solution fill all the tiny lines and then you can easy go over and clean up your surface to get perfect, straight detail. With some of the curved surfaces that might be a pain, but even on normal builds I've found the ease of using a wash much better than ever breaking out a pen
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Mar 21, 2024 21:48
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I was going to ask what people use these days for panel lining and this works out great. I have citadel, army painter and vallejo washes. iirc some old tank weathering tutorials some people just go ham with them. then use a q-tip with a bit of rubbing alcohol for clean up I do have some markers too since washes tend to not do well over large flat surfaces and I do want these to look crisp another shout outs? I already have a godhand and diamond files
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Mar 21, 2024 22:20
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I started doing that as well lately with a premixed acrylic wash from Vallejo. Since it's acrylic I don't have to be careful with it like Tamiya panel liner. Just paint that stuff all over and then clean it up. Super easy and quick panel lining.
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Mar 21, 2024 22:23
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I just use the markers and a qtip to clean up it looks good
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Mar 21, 2024 22:26
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I R SMART LIKE ROCK posted:another shout outs? I already have a godhand and diamond files Switch to a glass file, imo. I had diamond ones but they're kinda overkill for plastics.
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Mar 21, 2024 22:34
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Arc Hammer posted:Switch to a glass file, imo. I had diamond ones but they're kinda overkill for plastics. yeah I've been alternating between the diamonds and an exacto. so switching to glass might save me some effort thanks
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Mar 21, 2024 22:53
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Get a bunch of matte medium and you can thin down other acrylics without breaking the surface tension. Use this to make whatever wash you want, black, grey, brown, blue, gold... Use it with a very light and dusty grey for lining black and dark blue things. The only dedicated product I've seen for dark pieces is AK's enamel wash for black camo, which'll cost 10x as much. Not sure what the same product is for enamel and lacquers; certainly some form flow improver should work, or maybe thinner. Too much pure thinner might act the same as too much water in and leave you with something that stains but doesn't flow the colour into recesses. Then, if you've been painting, highlight raised edges. Bit difficult to do if you want to keep the kit fully reposeable, but'll make the kit pop like crazy. No idea why you see this all over miniatures but never on gundams and other mechanicals. Other important hobby tools are LIGHTS LIGHTS LIGHTS LIGHTS you will be amazed at how much light helps with doing fine details. Some form of magnification is also nice, but one of those magnifiers with lights on it isn't enough LIIIIIGHT. A couple of cheap LED strips you can rearrange at will are incredibly useful, especially if you have a crappy little spray booth. Regular sand paper and sanding sponges are way more useful than people give them credit for in this thread. 400, 800, 1200 covers 99.999% of use cases. Glass file is for the absolute last bit of nub, they clog too much and can't deal with round surfaces. Metal files are for absolutely burning through plastic. Polishing cloths can unify the texture of glass-filed and raw plastic, but I don't really have any specifics on that as I got a small pile of gunprimer balancers for cheap. Gardening wire can stand in for brass rods in a pinch and doesn't have Hobby markups. Tungsten PCB drill bits will work with even the cheapest pin vise and are again a fraction of the cost of branded hobby supplies. Useful if you ever need to drill a barrel, do battle damage, or reinforce a snapped peg. Acrylic primer paint makes any touch ups (such as painting barbatos HG claws yellow) stick much better. And speaking of paint - paint pens cost at least as much as regular paint, but the paint dries in the bristles way too easily and clogs them so they only work once or twice. For cleaning up washes and panel lining, tightly spun cotton swabs (like tamiya ones) work so much better than regular. They're easier to control and suck up way more residue. To the point where I'd say it's worth the significant extra cost, though I still keep a lot of the cheap ones on hand. For decals, rhinestone pickers do *not* mix well. Cotton swabs work best for me (especially the press onto swab then press onto spot trick), but I've gotten into the routine of testing with a small spare decal first as some brands just don't like that and need tweezers. Tweezers are another of the tools where I find the hobby ones are worth it because they'll actually close with something approaching the precision needed for decals vs the 3.99 stamped junk on amazon et al.
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Mar 21, 2024 23:02
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https://twitter.com/JosephH32149678/status/1770917642896888011?t=sVH2JLwIj1upPkCRc3t9lA&s=19 Grandaddy Real Grade 2.0.
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Mar 21, 2024 23:50
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Nullkigan posted:Get a bunch of matte medium and you can thin down other acrylics without breaking the surface tension. Use this to make whatever wash you want, black, grey, brown, blue, gold... Use it with a very light and dusty grey for lining black and dark blue things. The only dedicated product I've seen for dark pieces is AK's enamel wash for black camo, which'll cost 10x as much. jfc this is an epic post. thanks for the write up I have most of what you talked about already since I do table top miniatures as well. I have those grits of sand paper but I use them for my woodworking stuff. so I may buy some new sponges can you use acrylic washes on bare plastic or should I prime everything? I was hoping to have these not take several hours each fake edit: to better explain, if I can wash them all while still on sprues, clip, sand, then some touch up. they should be pretty quick I R SMART LIKE ROCK fucked around with this message at 00:15 on Mar 22, 2024 |
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Mar 22, 2024 00:10
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Nullkigan posted:Tweezers are another of the tools where I find the hobby ones are worth it because they'll actually close with something approaching the precision needed for decals vs the 3.99 stamped junk on amazon et al. I use this thing and it really saved my sanity doing the waterslides yesterday.
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Mar 22, 2024 00:15
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I'm working my way up to an Alteisen Riese a friend got me like 8 years ago that I keep telling myself I'll put together. I love that mech and want it to look fully sick. I think I have a Z'gok somewhere too...
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Mar 22, 2024 00:19
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Yeah acrylic washes will work just fine on bare plastic. They might come off a bit more easily than you'd like if you're handling them a lot and they tend to spread, stain, and pool a bit more than dedicated panel liners based on oil/enamel based washes, but they're more common, usually cheaper, and don't stink. One technique is even to basically apply wash everywhere, then simply rub it off the highlights and middle of panels. I find that works a bit better with straight up oil paint rather than acrylic washes though. There were some videos on YouTube of someone doing a bunch of kits that way using Abteilung's Starship Filth oil paint (including some Warhammer ones where they painted and clear coated first). There'll always be some clean-up after painting/washing/lining things on sprue, but I have to admit to doing it a few times. If using anything with 'heat' to it (enamel or oil washes / liners) make sure to not let it pool or anywhere near ABS plastic, or you'll risk the plastic cracking.
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Mar 22, 2024 00:33
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| # ? May 12, 2024 14:29 |
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yeah I'll varnish after with some vallejo via airbrush. which should take care of any rubbing off thank you so much for all the  I'm used to working with polystyrene but have no experience with ABS
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Mar 22, 2024 00:42
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